View previous topic :: View next topic |
Author |
Message |
ChilliumBromide Trick Member
Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Location: Beaverton, OR |
6500. Posted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 9:39 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I actually depends on the system and controller. If it's for StepMania, you can definitely use one controller for two pads, and even add in a control box for each player, since all you need for that is a 14-button controller, and a Dualshock 2 registers as a 4-axis, 16-button controller. If it's for PS2 use (which is kind of lame anyway, to tell the truth), you can't use one controller EXCEPT with SuperNOVA2 and possibly SuperNOVA, but you'll need to do some research for that. If you seriously want to try that, I can try to get you the details of how the 1-controller double mode (I know this feature exists at least on SN2, because I've used it in desperate times) works. I think you'll need to wire up to L, D, R1, L1, SQU, X, TRI, and O. as L1, D1, U1, R1, L2, D2, U2, and R2, respectively. You can also check for yourself, because I'm a busy person. If you do this, I would advise you plan on switching to StepMania full-time ASAP, because SN2 takes about 2 weeks to get really boring. _________________
I used to be active here lol |
|
Back to top |
|
|
ffff Basic Member
Joined: 13 Jun 2008
|
6501. Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2008 3:30 am Post subject: |
|
|
Yeah, sorry I'm a little vague. I want it for Stepmania, which means I can make 2 pads with 1 controller, simultaneously? What about the wire? If 8feet+ would fry your controller, wouldn't 14 6 feet wires wired to it fry it up as well?
BTW, there are many reasons why I decided to build a soft one.
-I want to experience it
-I don't want a reliable soft pad(bought)
-I don't have tools to build a solid one
-I won't be living in this house for anytime longer. I'll be migrating
I stumbled upon this website, which inspired me to build a soft one, though this guy's wiring is definitely not for the average people.
http://www.gadgetvenue.com/custom-made-dance-pad-06043752/ |
|
Back to top |
|
|
mikieson Trick Member
Joined: 14 Nov 2003
|
6502. Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2008 7:54 am Post subject: |
|
|
DDRMASTER2000 wrote: | Hey everyone, I was set on buying a Blueshark but they are currently out of stock and probably will be for a while.
So instead I am going to be building my own pads and have a few questions.
First Off: I was wondering if I can use these http://www.mymybox.com/mbsacc8.html and http://www.mymybox.com/mbsacc16.html for my sensors and everything.
Second: I was wondering what I should get if I am going to have it just be USB. Can I somehow wire up the mymybox sensors and connect them to be usb?
Thanks |
If you are going to drop that kind of money on those things, you might as well buy a pad. The reason for making things yourself is COST...Good luck though |
|
Back to top |
|
|
stuffmonger Trick Member
Joined: 08 May 2008
|
6503. Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2008 12:58 pm Post subject: |
|
|
mikieson wrote: | If you are going to drop that kind of money on those things, you might as well buy a pad. The reason for making things yourself is COST...Good luck though |
Umm. No. My pads are more expensive than most metal pads you can buy if you include the sensor price. My main reasons for building mine were:
1: to have the best pad I can have.
2: to have the experience of building a pad.
3: to be able to repair my pad easily whenever I want to.
4: to have a pad that I can customize as I want. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
ChilliumBromide Trick Member
Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Location: Beaverton, OR |
6504. Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2008 8:56 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Well, it looks like lists of four things are all the rage here now.
1. A homepad is the best pad you can own. Period. That doesn't mean that you can build a pad that's better than a BeatGear, but I know a few people (devout, infamous360, weston, and some of the others I've talked to) who could if they put their mind to it.
2. An arcade pad will run you $2500 through betson. Unless you're making pads on a budget of more than $2500 per pad, you're saving money on the best, since it's almost impossible to find a legit BeatGear pad, and Konami's the next best commercial pad available.
3. If you can build it from scratch, you can replace it from scratch or fix almost any problem. 4 of 5 dentists say that being able to repair your DDR pad easily is good for your pubic hair.
4. You shouldn't have pads frying. I've personally never fried anything I've made and I've never heard of these silly rules. A long wire WILL NOT fry your pad simply because it's a long wire. Go ahead and make a 14-button DDR doubles pad with dual CB; if it fries, I'll send you another USB controller chip free and know better next time. _________________
I used to be active here lol |
|
Back to top |
|
|
ffff Basic Member
Joined: 13 Jun 2008
|
6505. Posted: Fri Jun 20, 2008 3:52 am Post subject: |
|
|
Quote: | 4. You shouldn't have pads frying. I've personally never fried anything I've made and I've never heard of these silly rules. A long wire WILL NOT fry your pad simply because it's a long wire. Go ahead and make a 14-button DDR doubles pad with dual CB; if it fries, I'll send you another USB controller chip free and know better next time. |
Hmmmm...you sound rather confident about your answer, not sure why the FAQ would state this:
Quote: | How long should the wires be?
They should be about 6-8 feet long. Any longer than that could fry your controller. |
So if I fried my controller, get yourself ready to pay for massive shipping costs(cuz I live on the exact opposite sid of the world from you) !!! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
cbarbera Basic Member
Joined: 12 Jun 2008
|
6506. Posted: Fri Jun 20, 2008 8:22 am Post subject: |
|
|
Hey everyone,
I dicovered this thread by way of a google search and have been glued to all these great posts. As a result, I'm thinking of embarking on my own metal pad building project. I just have some questions.
My plan is to use Riptide's design, but modify it a bit to make it slimmer. It's an absolute requirement that I make the pad as thin and low to the ground as possible for storage purposes. I need to be able to slide this thing under a sofa when not in use, or my wife will flip out. Therefore I'm aiming for a thickness of 2 or 2.5 inches.
Anyway, is there anyway to accomplish this within the scope of Riptide's design? His arrow wells looked very deep, and overall I thought they could be made smaller, but what do I know? I'm a novice. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
stuffmonger Trick Member
Joined: 08 May 2008
|
6507. Posted: Fri Jun 20, 2008 1:23 pm Post subject: |
|
|
cbarbera wrote: | Hey everyone,
I dicovered this thread by way of a google search and have been glued to all these great posts. As a result, I'm thinking of embarking on my own metal pad building project. I just have some questions.
My plan is to use Riptide's design, but modify it a bit to make it slimmer. It's an absolute requirement that I make the pad as thin and low to the ground as possible for storage purposes. I need to be able to slide this thing under a sofa when not in use, or my wife will flip out. Therefore I'm aiming for a thickness of 2 or 2.5 inches.
Anyway, is there anyway to accomplish this within the scope of Riptide's design? His arrow wells looked very deep, and overall I thought they could be made smaller, but what do I know? I'm a novice. |
It wouldn't really change the design much if you used 1x4s instead of 2x4s. Then, it would be 2-2.5 inches thick. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
ChilliumBromide Trick Member
Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Location: Beaverton, OR |
6508. Posted: Fri Jun 20, 2008 3:33 pm Post subject: |
|
|
ffff wrote: | Quote: | 4. You shouldn't have pads frying. I've personally never fried anything I've made and I've never heard of these silly rules. A long wire WILL NOT fry your pad simply because it's a long wire. Go ahead and make a 14-button DDR doubles pad with dual CB; if it fries, I'll send you another USB controller chip free and know better next time. |
Hmmmm...you sound rather confident about your answer, not sure why the FAQ would state this:
Quote: | How long should the wires be?
They should be about 6-8 feet long. Any longer than that could fry your controller. |
So if I fried my controller, get yourself ready to pay for massive shipping costs(cuz I live on the exact opposite sid of the world from you) !!! | O Snap!
Anyway, it still shouldn't be a problem; it might be an issue of outdated hardware in that case, but more wires shouldn't lead to an increased likelihood of frying, nor should longer wires. The reason I'm saying that is because there's a static (as in non-changing) output from the controller port that DOES NOT VARY EVER. Unless you're plugging your pad into a wall socket or hookin' it up to a car battery, you're going to have a hard time frying your pad.
I'll hold to my statement; what country?
cbarbera, if you just use a 4'x4' piece of plywood for the base, you can use the leftovers from that in place of the 2x4's. There should be 4" of extra wood left on one side and a large chunk on another side after cutting the 33" base and 5 11"x11" panels. I haven't looked over the guide completely, but this would bring the thickness down to 1.5", assuming it would work, and my mental geometry says it would. _________________
I used to be active here lol |
|
Back to top |
|
|
cbarbera Basic Member
Joined: 12 Jun 2008
|
6509. Posted: Fri Jun 20, 2008 7:27 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Hmm. Thanks for the replies. I'll think on it a bit. Devout's Stealth pad seems to meet my requirements and might be a good first timer board to make since it's a simpler design with less parts.
My only complaint about the stealth pad is that it has no flair or arrow panel graphics. It's more like a fine piece of furniture. If only there was a way to spice it up. I'm open to ideas there as well. But I digress. I've gone off topic a bit here. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
ChilliumBromide Trick Member
Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Location: Beaverton, OR |
6510. Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 8:08 pm Post subject: |
|
|
There are certainly ways to add flavour and flair to a Stealth, but in doing so, you'll need to sacrifice some degree of simplicity and spend a little extra money. One thing you can do is add a laminated cardboard graphic over the metal panels. Another thing you can do is simply paint or dye the non-button panels. You can even use the basic design concept to build a pad that looks and functions almost exactly like a $300 Cobalt Flux for half the price. _________________
I used to be active here lol |
|
Back to top |
|
|
slvrshdw Trick Member
Joined: 05 Jan 2005
|
6511. Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 11:03 pm Post subject: |
|
|
to cbarbera:
if you do plan on using the riptide plan, like i did, and recommend it
i actually did use the 1x4s instead of 2x4s (i actually made some of each, and the 1x4 ones are WAY lighter and still dont slip)
so yeah, go with that _________________
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
cbarbera Basic Member
Joined: 12 Jun 2008
|
6512. Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 1:53 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Those are some great ideas. I'm still in the planning stages on what I want to do. In the end I may make my homepad as a blend of multiple designs. Once i price out the sheet metal, and plexiglass, I'll decide if i wanna go in a more modded riptide or kicked up stealth direction. I'm also really digging the DJ3 design. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Weston Trick Member
Joined: 17 Feb 2003 Location: Minnesota |
6513. Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 5:01 pm Post subject: |
|
|
That reminds me... if anyone has videos of the DJ3 design or high score screenshots using this pad design, let me know and I'll link them on the Pad Performance page since I really haven't played home versions for almost a year. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Mateui Trick Member
Joined: 02 Mar 2007 Location: Nova Scotia |
6514. Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 5:40 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Weston wrote: | That reminds me... if anyone has videos of the DJ3 design or high score screenshots using this pad design, let me know and I'll link them on the Pad Performance page since I really haven't played home versions for almost a year. |
I'll see if I can get some screenshots at least. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
ChilliumBromide Trick Member
Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Location: Beaverton, OR |
6515. Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 8:48 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Weston wrote: | That reminds me... if anyone has videos of the DJ3 design or high score screenshots using this pad design, let me know and I'll link them on the Pad Performance page since I really haven't played home versions for almost a year. | Someone says "DJ3" and you pop right up eh? Long time no see. (could be because of my 8-month hiatus from the internet though) _________________
I used to be active here lol |
|
Back to top |
|
|
cbarbera Basic Member
Joined: 12 Jun 2008
|
6516. Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 6:44 am Post subject: |
|
|
Ha! Hi there Weston. Just thought I would mention that I love your pad design. I'm considering yours very highly. I only wish I could see some building videos or photos of the inside (ah-la riptides vids). I'm having some trouble wrapping my head around the contact design and their placement. It's a really nice looking pad.
In the end I may try out the Stealth design as a first foray into pad building and then follow it up with a more complex design like yours. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Mateui Trick Member
Joined: 02 Mar 2007 Location: Nova Scotia |
6517. Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 11:33 am Post subject: |
|
|
cbarbera wrote: | Ha! Hi there Weston. Just thought I would mention that I love your pad design. I'm considering yours very highly. I only wish I could see some building videos or photos of the inside (ah-la riptides vids). I'm having some trouble wrapping my head around the contact design and their placement. It's a really nice looking pad.
In the end I may try out the Stealth design as a first foray into pad building and then follow it up with a more complex design like yours. |
DJ3's design is what I followed to build my first (and thus far only) homemade pad, because I found his instructions to be the most in-depth and the use of the four arrows to make the corners ingenius. I'm planning on building a second one this summer, albeit, I didn't quite use the same contact design.. I have 4 sets of metal brackets - one half screwed into the base of the pad, and the other half onto the bottom of the step. On the bottom half brackets instead of mousepad I used these dollar store foam blocks that had designs of various Disney characters and Spongebob on them. At first they provided much resistance but now, over a year later they're working like a charm. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Weston Trick Member
Joined: 17 Feb 2003 Location: Minnesota |
6518. Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 1:57 pm Post subject: |
|
|
DancingTofu(SMC) wrote: | Someone says "DJ3" and you pop right up eh? Long time no see. (could be because of my 8-month hiatus from the internet though) | I check here every day, but I just don't really have much to say I guess.
As for the contact design, is there anything I can help explain better? |
|
Back to top |
|
|
cbarbera Basic Member
Joined: 12 Jun 2008
|
6519. Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 5:56 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Weston wrote: | DancingTofu(SMC) wrote: | Someone says "DJ3" and you pop right up eh? Long time no see. (could be because of my 8-month hiatus from the internet though) | I check here every day, but I just don't really have much to say I guess.
As for the contact design, is there anything I can help explain better? |
Well I have skimmed over the guide a couple times, and did have some questions.
I pretty well understand the riptide mechanism of the slabs of sheet metal under the arrow touching the screw heads underneath. I'm just wonder if you could explain your mechanism a bit clearer (i haven't checked out the matrix guide yet). Am I right in assuming that the 4 metal contacts under the panel, touch 4 identical metal contacts wired to the base? Like a mirror image?
Also, you mentioned in the introduction, that it features a detachable controller. But I couldn't figure out from my couple skims through the guide what you meant by that. For instance, i wondered if this meant the playstation controller could A) be disconnected and be used as a regular controller for non-dance games, or B) be switched out for a modded Gamecube controller, Xbox etc. Now that would be an awesome feature.
Anyway, if there's anything you can explain that would help me understand those things it would be an awesome help. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|
|
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
|
Powered by phpBB 2 © 2001, 2002 phpBB Group
|