My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)

[FirstClass]

[diamonddust]

[FirstClass]

Hi,

I have a little problem here... Im trying to do the last (bottom) arrow, however I have hit a little problem. The very bottom left corner bracket sticks out about 5mm. I am not keen on trimming down the panel as its a perfect square (or octogon rather). Is there anything else I could do?

Problem...


My dance pad...

[ChilliumBromide]

The real way to fix it would be to take the frame apart entirely, build a new base, and then assemble it all.

But if you want to try a quicker fix, try just disassembling the back of the pad, modifying the frame so it's a little longer (I'd actually modify it to be about 6 inches longer; then you can add a bar if you ever get the urge), and reattaching those back 3 panels.

The only real quick way to fix the problem would be to trim the panel itself. I assume you're building this for long-term use though, so I'd go with a long-term fix.
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I used to be active here lol

[kev0]

Goddamn that is one impressive lookin' pad. I like the shiny metal pads you got there.

[FirstClass]

Re: DancingTofu(SMC)...

Its not the base that is causing the problem. Its the fact that the centre metal panel is slightly misaligned so its shifted towards the back ever so slightly so the rear arrow had to suffer the consequences. Oh wells, theres probably nothing I can do is there? The reason why I dont want to trim the panel is because its professionally cut for me and that if I trim it down, it will affect the graphics.

Re: kev0

Thanks. They are just normal 0.6mm galvanised sheet metal. I was gonna get shiny aluminium ones which is virtually like mirror but they cost way too much.

[FirstClass]

Whoops sorry, I accidentally clicked on quote instead of edit for my earlier post and I cant delete this post now.

[diamonddust]

^I'd just cut back the plexi if the corner brace plywood pieces are on point.

I have a question as well. I used a gamestop mat pcb and my left/right, start/select, and my x/o are all reversed on my dreamcast converter (Total Control 2 for keyboard I think) and my Universal PS2 Controller Adapter from mayflash. I had to resolder my left and right. Is it the pcb or the converters? If there's a post about it could someone point me in the right direction?

EDIT: I also have a problem where when I play on my pc, it disconnects, then reconnects and it's not in "dance mode." should I buy a new converter? The Stepmania website recommended either an ems or a super joy box 3. I ordered the super joy box 3 pro. Does that usually solve the problem?

[Travelsonic]

How should I go about adding USB support for my homebrew DDR gamepad, in a way that will allow me to keep PS2 functionability?
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I'll believe that when me **** turns purple, and smells like rainbow sherbet.

[diamonddust]

^Buy a good converter. My Super Joy Box 3 Pro is on it's way and I'll put up results when I get it.

[cartoonhero29]

i had a quick question about the wiring. on the riptide design, when wiring the ground wire, does each arrow have its own ground wire, and then you solder all 4 arrow ground wires to one and to the controller, OR is there one continuous ground wire that goes to all 4 arrows and then the controller? Also, if i were to put lights inside, how would i wire it to sync with the steps?

thanks for the feedback
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[diamonddust]

[diamonddust]

[Diet]

Me and my friend are creating our own Cobalt Flux type pad. Since I've owned a CF for about 3 years now (No problems yet!) We can use it as a model for how to build our own. Plus we have Knowlegable electronics and hardware people to help us out around. So far we have it all planned out. We have suppliers and a priced list of all our materials. Tomorrow we begin buying. I've got a month to finish it because I want to give it to my girlfriend for our one-year anneversery present.

Here's our part list:

$39.51 melamine base board 4x8 This is exactly the stuff that CF uses. It's big enough to make two pads out of, but it's the smallest size that will work. A couple of grooves along the top of the melamine act as canals for the wiring. Luckily we own a router, so we can make them free of charge.

$35.00 Lexan panels We figured we'd buy these straight from CF's site. We are having a hard time with all the different types of Lexan out there and the various suppliers. Shipping is $6

$38 for two 26 gauge galvanized steel sheets. One will be cut into 9 11"x11" squares for us to use for the buttons. The other will be cut into a special pattern that allows screws to be screwed through both sheets without making a connection.

$6 PS1 Controller This will be our control box.

$7 for a USB converter: http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.789 Got good reviews on Stepmania.com. I consider this required, since Stepmania is superior to all other DDR games.

$9 Velcro: The velcro is a very important part of the cobaltflux. It seperates the base metal sheet from the buttons, and helps keep the arrows in place. On top of that, it is where the wires are connected.

$4 for custom bought screws.

$6 for epoxy. This will make the mellamine baseboard and the base metal sheet into one object.

Total estimated cost: $145

We really appretiate all the info that's been posted around on the site and external sources. I'll be posting updates and answering questions along the way of me making the pad if you guys want. It's going to be hello-kitty themed.

[CT_Warrior]

What would you use instead of a PS2 controller for it work on the PC?

[Diet]

You could use a USB joystick if you were cool and had money to burn. Alternatively, you could buy a PS2->USB converter.

[xerox personality]

[CT_Warrior]

Well, it seems that I already have a useless USB controller around, so I'll just use that. And the keyboard seems a bit more complicated, and as this is my first pad, I think I'll stick to easier things to work with and work up. I won't have an extra keyboard if I screw up. ~_~ Thanks for the help though.

But one last question:
How would you do the screw mod or solder mod for DDRHomePad's design?

"[omg]Twilight[wtf]RC[lol] wrote:

we had a lot of problems at first with the contacts, but to fix it, we put screws through the bottom, and the sensitivity shot through the roof (i can tap my foot as light as possible on the very edge and it still registers) we used brass screws so as to conduct electricity well, and they wont poke through the metal, because brass is softer than steel. I soldered the arrows to the x, o, triangle, and square, which proved to work better (also for the computer).

The pad is great, and it works perfectly, the screw modifications helped a lot. We also put a wood frame around it and dropped a piece of plywood in there and screwed it in. "

Screw through the bottom of what? And how does that help? Where on the bottom? The center of the bottom?

[ChilliumBromide]

CT_Warrior,

I may be wrong, but I believe they are putting screws through the bottom set of sensors. This causes the sensor to stay down and cuts down the gap between sensors greatly. You can also use a blob of solder to just close the distance, but that's much less effect and much less adjustable.

Whether that's what's being referred to or not, using screws through your bottom plate is a great way to give your pad clean, adjustable sensitivity.
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I used to be active here lol

[CT_Warrior]

Ah, I see.

So it's sorta like adding a bit of Riptide's design into DDRHomePad's from what you say.

I wonder if I should use Riptide's screw design or experiment with some weird screw design on the corners..