Forums FAQForums FAQ   SearchSearch   MemberlistMemberlist   UsergroupsUsergroups   RegisterRegister   ProfileProfile   Login to check your private messagesLogin to check your private messages   LoginLogin 

My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)
Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3 ... 321, 322, 323 ... 339, 340, 341  Next  
This topic is locked you cannot edit posts or make replies    DDR Freak Forum Index -> Bemani Controllers
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
android_04
Basic Member
Basic Member


Joined: 30 Oct 2007
6420. PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2007 8:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

@kev0
The sensors would be near the end of the step, opposite end the hinge. With this idea of using hinges i was thinking that the switch would be triggered no matter where you step, due to the hinges.

edit:
Now that i think about it more, my idea of using hinges is not that good because the switch would experience different pressure depending on where you step on the panels. I guess I will just build some devout stealth pads E1.gif
Back to top
View users profile Send private message
slvrshdw
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 05 Jan 2005
6421. PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2007 6:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

android_04 wrote:

Now that i think about it more, my idea of using hinges is not that good because the switch would experience different pressure depending on where you step on the panels.


at first i thought the hinges would be a good idea too, but then i thought that the arrow, overall, would lose sensitivity. by forcing the sensor to only one side, it loses the other 3 sides of sensors like all the other pads use.

it probably would still work, but it wouldn't really do a whole lot, except be different from all the rest
_________________
Back to top
View users profile Send private message Send email Visit posters website AOL Instant Messenger
kev0
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 25 Aug 2007
6422. PostPosted: Sat Nov 03, 2007 6:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay. I've had that sensor problem for quite a few days.

No matter how I adjust it, there's bound to be one part of the panel with the sensor not responding, and it's driving me nuts trying to find right height.

Apart from using a ruler (I can't use it to measure the height since my ruler has an indentation) or using a ruler to put above it to see if it's in a straight line (I can't tell if it's parallel to the 2x4's), and apart from trial and error (Current method). Has anyone got better ideas than that?
Back to top
View users profile Send private message
android_04
Basic Member
Basic Member


Joined: 30 Oct 2007
6423. PostPosted: Sat Nov 03, 2007 6:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kev, how about placing a piece of wood behind one of the screws (making sure that the end laying on the 2x4 is flat). Then mark the wood at the point where the screw is the tallest. Then just move the piece of wood over to the next screw and screw it down until it is at the height that you marked. Keep doing that for all the screws.

This wont work if all four sides of the 2x4 base are not even. In this case, what you can do is lay a plexiglas panel on the screws and note which ones are higher and lower, and adjust accordingly.
Back to top
View users profile Send private message
devout
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 15 Dec 2006
Location: the atl
6424. PostPosted: Sat Nov 03, 2007 6:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it's really really driving you nuts, try replacing the screws with round head screws. The problem with countersunk screws is that they dont have a well defined point where the shaft ends and the screw begins, so you can grind it down into the wood as far as you want. A round head has a nice flat underside so if you just screw 'em all down til they stop they'll all come out the same height. (They'll also clamp down on the wire so you know you'll get good contact between the screw and the wire)

The problem is you'd probably have to replace ALL the screws, and at this point you probably dont want to go back and do that. (You'd also need to make sure they all go in relatively straight) It seems to me like you might also get better results if you moved the screws closer to the corners of the panels instead of grouping them near the center of eacah edge... though I could be wrong.
_________________
the world's most refined homepad: devout stealth

Almost-finished non-Stealth homepad for sale, just add sensors! see here: http://www.ddrfreak.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=8921579#8921579
Back to top
View users profile Send private message
kev0
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 25 Aug 2007
6425. PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2007 3:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I perfected the left arrow, after tonnes of trial and error. The left arrow is very sensitive with the screws being put pretty high up, and when pressing the top right metal panel, it sometimes triggers it. I'm guessing this is because the plywood base isn't exactly straight meaning when I apply pressure to the top it straightenes the plywood, causing the upper 2x4's to rise and make contact.

Oh well, I don't really mind that, since I ESPECIALLY don't want to open up the left panel again. D:

Now for 3 more arrows. For the top, there's one entire side that needs readjusting. For the right there's 2 screws, for the bottom there's 2 screws. Seems like I'm gonna finish by tomorrow biggrin.gif

(Oh and the x push button broke. The wire just snapped off because it's just dangling out and gets twisted alot)

EDIT: OH AND I FIXED THE RIGHT PANEL. (It causes VERY VERY Slight double-stepping at times, meaning it steps twice very quickly on one step, but I don't really care E1.gif)


Here's a pic.

The sticky tapes on the edges represent parts I needa adjust. Just raise/lower a few of those screws then I'm set.

Meanwhile. It's playable. The majority of the screws work, and I've cleared Frozen Ray and Speed over Beethoven on heavy (Not a major accomplishment but it works out). On my soft pad, I can also complete those with around similar standards, meaning the pad works pretty well with a few faulty sensors. I'll get it fixed by tomorrow! (I always say that.)
Back to top
View users profile Send private message
DMS
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 08 Jul 2007
6426. PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2007 6:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anyone care to help with my controller situation? I'd love to get this thing done after having it for months now. Pics on page before this.
Back to top
View users profile Send private message
slvrshdw
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 05 Jan 2005
6427. PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2007 9:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

if you can get better pics i can help out.

i have to see the controller better to trace the wires for you.

also, you can do it yourself too: all you have to do is:

1) check which of the + part of the controller is common. (as in, it branches to all 4 of the connections)
2) solder that to the ground/common wire on your pad
3) solder the other wires to the corresponding wires on your pad.

*i would recommend a quick disconnect in case you mess up/want to change it later
_________________
Back to top
View users profile Send private message Send email Visit posters website AOL Instant Messenger
mikon
Basic Member
Basic Member


Joined: 15 Nov 2007
Location: Montreal, Canada
6428. PostPosted: Fri Nov 16, 2007 5:58 pm    Post subject: Long wires Reply with quote

Quote:
...the wire you soldered on might have enough mass to act as a ground, causing the button to occasionally fire off


The controller was probably designed to operate with very short leads, and to be cheap. I think it more likely that a long wire in contact with a metal plate will throw the controller off because its voltage (as seen by the controller) is fluctuating (explanation follows).

You might solve the problem by connecting a large resistor (A) between the two leads for each pad, or (B) between the non-common leads and the opposite supply from the common lead. On the other hand, it's possible this is already done by the controller but the problem lies elsewhere...

If that didn't make any sense, perhaps an example will help:
Code:

POS <-----+-----COMMON---+-+-+-.
          |              | | | |
       #######           | | | |
    <--#  C  #--LEAD 4---L U D R
    <--#  H  #--LEAD 3-----' | |
    <--#  I  #--LEAD 2-------' |
    <--#  P  #--LEAD 1---------'
       #######
          |
GND <-----'

POS is the positive supply
GND is the ground
L, U, D and R are the pad-switches.


Here, the COMMON lead is connected to the POS supply; to keep the 4 leads from fluctuating, add a 1M resistor between each lead and GND. note that the controller might be configured differently -- POS and GND could be switched, in which case this configuration should still work.

If the common lead isn't connected to ground or the positive supply, or if there isn't a common lead (pairs of leads instead), try placing a resistor between each pair of leads.

If this doesn't work, and you're sure the problem is not with the pad's switches or a short in the wiring, try using another controller.

Explanation:
A long piece of wire will pick up static from its surroundings, act as an antenna, and "confuse" the controller because it is neither grounded nor pulled up to the positive supply. Circuits are sensitive things that work best with a clean signal - not a wildly fluctuating one. Normally, all unused pins on a microchip are grounded or connected to the positive supply so they don't cause the logic gates in the chip to rapidly switch on and off (consuming power and heating the chip, or in this case "ghost" pressing the button).
Back to top
View users profile Send private message
mikon
Basic Member
Basic Member


Joined: 15 Nov 2007
Location: Montreal, Canada
6429. PostPosted: Fri Nov 16, 2007 6:15 pm    Post subject: Double-Pressing Reply with quote

Quote:
...VERY VERY Slight double-stepping at times...


Double-stepping is likely caused by the switch bouncing: connecting, disconnecting for a fraction of a second, and reconnecting.
This is a common problem when connecting a switch to any digital device; you must "de-bounce" the switch so it provides a clean signal. There are plenty of sites on the subject.
Back to top
View users profile Send private message
DMS
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 08 Jul 2007
6430. PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 9:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

slvrshdw wrote:
if you can get better pics i can help out.

i have to see the controller better to trace the wires for you.

also, you can do it yourself too: all you have to do is:

1) check which of the + part of the controller is common. (as in, it branches to all 4 of the connections)
2) solder that to the ground/common wire on your pad
3) solder the other wires to the corresponding wires on your pad.

*i would recommend a quick disconnect in case you mess up/want to change it later
If I could, I would. That's honestly the best pics I can get of it. Unless maybe scanning it would do a better job, I can try that tomorrow.
Back to top
View users profile Send private message
Mushroooshi
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 20 Aug 2007
6431. PostPosted: Mon Nov 19, 2007 1:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

TO Devout:

I showed my dad all the DDR pad designs and when I showed him your design he said that wold be the only ddr pad he would actually keep in the living room XD.
Back to top
View users profile Send private message
kev0
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 25 Aug 2007
6432. PostPosted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 10:04 pm    Post subject: Re: Double-Pressing Reply with quote

mikon wrote:
Quote:
...VERY VERY Slight double-stepping at times...


Double-stepping is likely caused by the switch bouncing: connecting, disconnecting for a fraction of a second, and reconnecting.
This is a common problem when connecting a switch to any digital device; you must "de-bounce" the switch so it provides a clean signal. There are plenty of sites on the subject.


But I'm afraid it involves reopening the panels, and since I've been doing that for ages, I'm not too keen to opening it anymore. Oh well, when it REALLY screws up one day, I'll keep in mind to 'unbounce' the switch.

Thanks for the help though biggrin.gif
Back to top
View users profile Send private message
Rene_A
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 17 Aug 2007
Location: :o Springfield
6433. PostPosted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 9:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey, i'm thinking about making a metal pad, but i want to make a control box with ps2,xbox, and usb connection. anyone have any tutorials on how to do it? or at least point me in the direction to find one. thanks.
_________________
bleedingdonkey (9:55:35 PM): HAI
bleedingdonkey (9:55:40 PM): I NOTICED
bleedingdonkey (9:55:43 PM): THAT YOU AAA'D SEVERAL SONGS ON DDR
bleedingdonkey (9:55:47 PM): I AM PROUD OF YOUR ACCOMPLISHMENTS
Rene Aq (9:55:58 PM): OMG WHY THANK YOU SIR
Back to top
View users profile Send private message AOL Instant Messenger
slvrshdw
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 05 Jan 2005
6434. PostPosted: Sun Nov 25, 2007 6:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

there are a couple possibilities,

1) get 3 different controller boards and do it that way.
2) use a CF or other control box and mod it to fit your homepad

either way isnt that hard, just do the one your prefer.
you can always get a softpad for ps2/xbox and then get a cheap USB device and you're done
_________________
Back to top
View users profile Send private message Send email Visit posters website AOL Instant Messenger
DMS
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 08 Jul 2007
6435. PostPosted: Mon Nov 26, 2007 2:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

k Guys, here is a MUCH better picture of my controller. I need help with what needs to be soldered where.

http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/6046/kkhf0.png
Back to top
View users profile Send private message
slvrshdw
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 05 Jan 2005
6436. PostPosted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 8:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well, this should be right. (much better pic) E13.gif

try it and see.

i just used paint so gimme a break on the quality.

anyway, i just kinda scribbled a line where the solder should go.
HINT: it may be hard to get the solder to stick, and USE A NICE TIP to solder

uh..correct me anyone if those points are wrong, i just did it fast...

_________________
Back to top
View users profile Send private message Send email Visit posters website AOL Instant Messenger
mikieson
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 14 Nov 2003
6437. PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 4:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a fix for some of you here....I drill holes in the contacts with a very very small bit and wrap the wires through and use electrical tape to hold in place...Wrap the whole pad very nice and tight after all the wires are in place...

Also, I used controls from old soft pads and its even easier as the contacts are a LOT larger.
Back to top
View users profile Send private message
Travelsonic
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 08 Oct 2005
6438. PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 8:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now that college is almost done for this semester, and I'll be off for a month ( - 2 weeks for traveling though), I can FINALLY get my DDR pad done.

Where I last left off, my design has 4 sensors/arrow, using arcade sensors, brackets, and sensor holders from MyMyBox, but now I need to raise the nondirectional panels because they are way too low, but how much should I do so the plexiglass isn't forcing its way out from the corner brackets, and everything actually fits nice, but I also have the ITG dedicab recessive feel everybody raves about? How also should I go about securing the sensor holders into the arrow well bases without making the sensor placement an odd fit?
_________________
I'll believe that when me **** turns purple, and smells like rainbow sherbet.
Back to top
View users profile Send private message AOL Instant Messenger
diamonddust
Basic Member
Basic Member


Joined: 26 Mar 2004
Location: ATL
6439. PostPosted: Tue Dec 25, 2007 1:54 pm    Post subject: Christmas Reply with quote

I don't really post on the forums, but I'm just saying that I'm enjoying my Christmas putting together my first homepad, riptide design. biggrin.gif biggrin.gif

Merry Christmas fellas.
Back to top
View users profile Send private message Send email Yahoo Messenger
Display posts from previous:   
This topic is locked you cannot edit posts or make replies    DDR Freak Forum Index -> Bemani Controllers All times are GMT - 8 Hours
Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3 ... 321, 322, 323 ... 339, 340, 341  Next
Page 322 of 341

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum


Powered by phpBB 2 © 2001, 2002 phpBB Group