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android_04 Basic Member
Joined: 30 Oct 2007
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6420. Posted: Thu Nov 01, 2007 8:23 am Post subject: |
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@kev0
The sensors would be near the end of the step, opposite end the hinge. With this idea of using hinges i was thinking that the switch would be triggered no matter where you step, due to the hinges.
edit:
Now that i think about it more, my idea of using hinges is not that good because the switch would experience different pressure depending on where you step on the panels. I guess I will just build some devout stealth pads |
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slvrshdw Trick Member
Joined: 05 Jan 2005
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6421. Posted: Thu Nov 01, 2007 6:29 pm Post subject: |
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android_04 wrote: |
Now that i think about it more, my idea of using hinges is not that good because the switch would experience different pressure depending on where you step on the panels. |
at first i thought the hinges would be a good idea too, but then i thought that the arrow, overall, would lose sensitivity. by forcing the sensor to only one side, it loses the other 3 sides of sensors like all the other pads use.
it probably would still work, but it wouldn't really do a whole lot, except be different from all the rest _________________
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kev0 Trick Member
Joined: 25 Aug 2007
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6422. Posted: Sat Nov 03, 2007 6:19 am Post subject: |
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Okay. I've had that sensor problem for quite a few days.
No matter how I adjust it, there's bound to be one part of the panel with the sensor not responding, and it's driving me nuts trying to find right height.
Apart from using a ruler (I can't use it to measure the height since my ruler has an indentation) or using a ruler to put above it to see if it's in a straight line (I can't tell if it's parallel to the 2x4's), and apart from trial and error (Current method). Has anyone got better ideas than that? |
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android_04 Basic Member
Joined: 30 Oct 2007
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6423. Posted: Sat Nov 03, 2007 6:01 pm Post subject: |
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kev, how about placing a piece of wood behind one of the screws (making sure that the end laying on the 2x4 is flat). Then mark the wood at the point where the screw is the tallest. Then just move the piece of wood over to the next screw and screw it down until it is at the height that you marked. Keep doing that for all the screws.
This wont work if all four sides of the 2x4 base are not even. In this case, what you can do is lay a plexiglas panel on the screws and note which ones are higher and lower, and adjust accordingly. |
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devout Trick Member
Joined: 15 Dec 2006 Location: the atl |
6424. Posted: Sat Nov 03, 2007 6:18 pm Post subject: |
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If it's really really driving you nuts, try replacing the screws with round head screws. The problem with countersunk screws is that they dont have a well defined point where the shaft ends and the screw begins, so you can grind it down into the wood as far as you want. A round head has a nice flat underside so if you just screw 'em all down til they stop they'll all come out the same height. (They'll also clamp down on the wire so you know you'll get good contact between the screw and the wire)
The problem is you'd probably have to replace ALL the screws, and at this point you probably dont want to go back and do that. (You'd also need to make sure they all go in relatively straight) It seems to me like you might also get better results if you moved the screws closer to the corners of the panels instead of grouping them near the center of eacah edge... though I could be wrong. _________________
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kev0 Trick Member
Joined: 25 Aug 2007
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6425. Posted: Sun Nov 04, 2007 3:17 am Post subject: |
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I perfected the left arrow, after tonnes of trial and error. The left arrow is very sensitive with the screws being put pretty high up, and when pressing the top right metal panel, it sometimes triggers it. I'm guessing this is because the plywood base isn't exactly straight meaning when I apply pressure to the top it straightenes the plywood, causing the upper 2x4's to rise and make contact.
Oh well, I don't really mind that, since I ESPECIALLY don't want to open up the left panel again. D:
Now for 3 more arrows. For the top, there's one entire side that needs readjusting. For the right there's 2 screws, for the bottom there's 2 screws. Seems like I'm gonna finish by tomorrow
(Oh and the x push button broke. The wire just snapped off because it's just dangling out and gets twisted alot)
EDIT: OH AND I FIXED THE RIGHT PANEL. (It causes VERY VERY Slight double-stepping at times, meaning it steps twice very quickly on one step, but I don't really care )
Here's a pic.
The sticky tapes on the edges represent parts I needa adjust. Just raise/lower a few of those screws then I'm set.
Meanwhile. It's playable. The majority of the screws work, and I've cleared Frozen Ray and Speed over Beethoven on heavy (Not a major accomplishment but it works out). On my soft pad, I can also complete those with around similar standards, meaning the pad works pretty well with a few faulty sensors. I'll get it fixed by tomorrow! (I always say that.) |
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DMS Trick Member
Joined: 08 Jul 2007
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6426. Posted: Thu Nov 08, 2007 6:27 pm Post subject: |
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Anyone care to help with my controller situation? I'd love to get this thing done after having it for months now. Pics on page before this. |
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slvrshdw Trick Member
Joined: 05 Jan 2005
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6427. Posted: Thu Nov 08, 2007 9:44 pm Post subject: |
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if you can get better pics i can help out.
i have to see the controller better to trace the wires for you.
also, you can do it yourself too: all you have to do is:
1) check which of the + part of the controller is common. (as in, it branches to all 4 of the connections)
2) solder that to the ground/common wire on your pad
3) solder the other wires to the corresponding wires on your pad.
*i would recommend a quick disconnect in case you mess up/want to change it later _________________
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mikon Basic Member
Joined: 15 Nov 2007 Location: Montreal, Canada |
6428. Posted: Fri Nov 16, 2007 5:58 pm Post subject: Long wires |
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Quote: | ...the wire you soldered on might have enough mass to act as a ground, causing the button to occasionally fire off |
The controller was probably designed to operate with very short leads, and to be cheap. I think it more likely that a long wire in contact with a metal plate will throw the controller off because its voltage (as seen by the controller) is fluctuating (explanation follows).
You might solve the problem by connecting a large resistor (A) between the two leads for each pad, or (B) between the non-common leads and the opposite supply from the common lead. On the other hand, it's possible this is already done by the controller but the problem lies elsewhere...
If that didn't make any sense, perhaps an example will help:
Code: |
POS <-----+-----COMMON---+-+-+-.
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####### | | | |
<--# C #--LEAD 4---L U D R
<--# H #--LEAD 3-----' | |
<--# I #--LEAD 2-------' |
<--# P #--LEAD 1---------'
#######
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GND <-----'
POS is the positive supply
GND is the ground
L, U, D and R are the pad-switches.
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Here, the COMMON lead is connected to the POS supply; to keep the 4 leads from fluctuating, add a 1M resistor between each lead and GND. note that the controller might be configured differently -- POS and GND could be switched, in which case this configuration should still work.
If the common lead isn't connected to ground or the positive supply, or if there isn't a common lead (pairs of leads instead), try placing a resistor between each pair of leads.
If this doesn't work, and you're sure the problem is not with the pad's switches or a short in the wiring, try using another controller.
Explanation:
A long piece of wire will pick up static from its surroundings, act as an antenna, and "confuse" the controller because it is neither grounded nor pulled up to the positive supply. Circuits are sensitive things that work best with a clean signal - not a wildly fluctuating one. Normally, all unused pins on a microchip are grounded or connected to the positive supply so they don't cause the logic gates in the chip to rapidly switch on and off (consuming power and heating the chip, or in this case "ghost" pressing the button). |
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mikon Basic Member
Joined: 15 Nov 2007 Location: Montreal, Canada |
6429. Posted: Fri Nov 16, 2007 6:15 pm Post subject: Double-Pressing |
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Quote: | ...VERY VERY Slight double-stepping at times... |
Double-stepping is likely caused by the switch bouncing: connecting, disconnecting for a fraction of a second, and reconnecting.
This is a common problem when connecting a switch to any digital device; you must "de-bounce" the switch so it provides a clean signal. There are plenty of sites on the subject. |
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DMS Trick Member
Joined: 08 Jul 2007
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6430. Posted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 9:00 pm Post subject: |
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slvrshdw wrote: | if you can get better pics i can help out.
i have to see the controller better to trace the wires for you.
also, you can do it yourself too: all you have to do is:
1) check which of the + part of the controller is common. (as in, it branches to all 4 of the connections)
2) solder that to the ground/common wire on your pad
3) solder the other wires to the corresponding wires on your pad.
*i would recommend a quick disconnect in case you mess up/want to change it later | If I could, I would. That's honestly the best pics I can get of it. Unless maybe scanning it would do a better job, I can try that tomorrow. |
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Mushroooshi Trick Member
Joined: 20 Aug 2007
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6431. Posted: Mon Nov 19, 2007 1:55 am Post subject: |
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TO Devout:
I showed my dad all the DDR pad designs and when I showed him your design he said that wold be the only ddr pad he would actually keep in the living room XD. |
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kev0 Trick Member
Joined: 25 Aug 2007
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6432. Posted: Tue Nov 20, 2007 10:04 pm Post subject: Re: Double-Pressing |
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mikon wrote: | Quote: | ...VERY VERY Slight double-stepping at times... |
Double-stepping is likely caused by the switch bouncing: connecting, disconnecting for a fraction of a second, and reconnecting.
This is a common problem when connecting a switch to any digital device; you must "de-bounce" the switch so it provides a clean signal. There are plenty of sites on the subject. |
But I'm afraid it involves reopening the panels, and since I've been doing that for ages, I'm not too keen to opening it anymore. Oh well, when it REALLY screws up one day, I'll keep in mind to 'unbounce' the switch.
Thanks for the help though |
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Rene_A Trick Member
Joined: 17 Aug 2007 Location: :o Springfield |
6433. Posted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 9:46 am Post subject: |
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Hey, i'm thinking about making a metal pad, but i want to make a control box with ps2,xbox, and usb connection. anyone have any tutorials on how to do it? or at least point me in the direction to find one. thanks. _________________
bleedingdonkey (9:55:35 PM): HAI
bleedingdonkey (9:55:40 PM): I NOTICED
bleedingdonkey (9:55:43 PM): THAT YOU AAA'D SEVERAL SONGS ON DDR
bleedingdonkey (9:55:47 PM): I AM PROUD OF YOUR ACCOMPLISHMENTS
Rene Aq (9:55:58 PM): OMG WHY THANK YOU SIR |
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slvrshdw Trick Member
Joined: 05 Jan 2005
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6434. Posted: Sun Nov 25, 2007 6:35 pm Post subject: |
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there are a couple possibilities,
1) get 3 different controller boards and do it that way.
2) use a CF or other control box and mod it to fit your homepad
either way isnt that hard, just do the one your prefer.
you can always get a softpad for ps2/xbox and then get a cheap USB device and you're done _________________
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DMS Trick Member
Joined: 08 Jul 2007
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slvrshdw Trick Member
Joined: 05 Jan 2005
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6436. Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 8:45 pm Post subject: |
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well, this should be right. (much better pic)
try it and see.
i just used paint so gimme a break on the quality.
anyway, i just kinda scribbled a line where the solder should go.
HINT: it may be hard to get the solder to stick, and USE A NICE TIP to solder
uh..correct me anyone if those points are wrong, i just did it fast...
_________________
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mikieson Trick Member
Joined: 14 Nov 2003
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6437. Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 4:38 am Post subject: |
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I have a fix for some of you here....I drill holes in the contacts with a very very small bit and wrap the wires through and use electrical tape to hold in place...Wrap the whole pad very nice and tight after all the wires are in place...
Also, I used controls from old soft pads and its even easier as the contacts are a LOT larger. |
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Travelsonic Trick Member
Joined: 08 Oct 2005
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6438. Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 8:27 am Post subject: |
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Now that college is almost done for this semester, and I'll be off for a month ( - 2 weeks for traveling though), I can FINALLY get my DDR pad done.
Where I last left off, my design has 4 sensors/arrow, using arcade sensors, brackets, and sensor holders from MyMyBox, but now I need to raise the nondirectional panels because they are way too low, but how much should I do so the plexiglass isn't forcing its way out from the corner brackets, and everything actually fits nice, but I also have the ITG dedicab recessive feel everybody raves about? How also should I go about securing the sensor holders into the arrow well bases without making the sensor placement an odd fit? _________________
I'll believe that when me **** turns purple, and smells like rainbow sherbet. |
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diamonddust Basic Member
Joined: 26 Mar 2004 Location: ATL |
6439. Posted: Tue Dec 25, 2007 1:54 pm Post subject: Christmas |
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I don't really post on the forums, but I'm just saying that I'm enjoying my Christmas putting together my first homepad, riptide design.
Merry Christmas fellas. |
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