View previous topic :: View next topic |
Author |
Message |
MasterInuYasha Trick Member
Joined: 09 Nov 2006 Location: Columbus, Montana |
6320. Posted: Tue Aug 07, 2007 8:18 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Umm.. Thanks.
I am looking for the one that had tape over the contacts with left, o, X, Start, select, ETC... it was really easy to read... |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Genfuyung Basic Member
Joined: 26 Jul 2007
|
6321. Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2007 12:41 pm Post subject: |
|
|
All you said was ps2 softpad. So far 2 people have tried to help you and youve been a d*ck both times. Heres to hoping noone else wastes their time trying to help you. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
MasterInuYasha Trick Member
Joined: 09 Nov 2006 Location: Columbus, Montana |
6322. Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2007 12:49 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Genfuyung wrote: | All you said was ps2 softpad. So far 2 people have tried to help you and youve been a d*ck both times. Heres to hoping noone else wastes their time trying to help you. |
So what, I suck at life and can't read blueprints/schematics. And the one Soymilk posted didn't seem to work either.
I must've went back 35+ pages now to look for one, and the one I did go by, the image link is dead |
|
Back to top |
|
|
ChilliumBromide Trick Member
Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Location: Beaverton, OR |
6323. Posted: Wed Aug 08, 2007 9:19 pm Post subject: |
|
|
If you have a USB adaptor, you can just plug it into your computer, open the window for the controller (should be a 16-button 4-axis controller), grab a piece of scrap wire, and touch it to buttons to get knowledge.
1 = triangle
2 = O
3 = X
4 = square
5 = L2
6 = R2
7 = L1
8 = R1
9 = Select
10 = Start
11 = L3
12 = R3
13 = up
14 = right
15 = down
16 = left _________________
I used to be active here lol |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Travelsonic Trick Member
Joined: 08 Oct 2005
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
Kalek Trick Member
Joined: 06 Nov 2004 Location: Pickerington, OH |
|
Back to top |
|
|
ChilliumBromide Trick Member
Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Location: Beaverton, OR |
6326. Posted: Sat Aug 11, 2007 10:53 pm Post subject: |
|
|
The arcade encasement is very similar to the BS encasement. You should definitely at least have one of those funky tab things over each sensor.
As for the screws, either A) get slightly thicker screws, or B) get machined screws that go all the way to the bottom of your pad along with nuts and lock washers that fit them, drill holes slightly thicker than the body of each screw through each screw hole, drill a 1" diametre, 3/16" to 5/16" deep hole in the base board around each screw hole, then put the screws in and attach them using the lock washers and nuts in the larger holes in the botom.
And try not to make the holes in the baseboard more than half the thickness of the baseboard, or you might risk cracking
I'd go with B.
If you go with A, DON'T USE A POWER DRILL. _________________
I used to be active here lol |
|
Back to top |
|
|
deathfromabove1990 Basic Member
Joined: 14 Jul 2006 Location: Walla Walla |
6327. Posted: Sun Aug 12, 2007 12:15 am Post subject: |
|
|
Well I just finished building my own pad, a DJ3 design, and I have to say it's absolutely phenomenal. I forget the screename of the creator, but, I thank you very much sir. _________________
I play DDR on Dreamcast. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Weston Trick Member
Joined: 17 Feb 2003 Location: Minnesota |
6328. Posted: Sun Aug 12, 2007 8:33 am Post subject: |
|
|
You're very welcome, I'm glad you chose my design! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
DMS Trick Member
Joined: 08 Jul 2007
|
6329. Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2007 7:33 am Post subject: |
|
|
My DJ3 is coming along alright... I was on a 2 week hiatus, but I am starting again this week. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Kalek Trick Member
Joined: 06 Nov 2004 Location: Pickerington, OH |
6330. Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2007 5:34 pm Post subject: |
|
|
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/Kalek/0813072101.jpg
started working on my pad today and made a ton of progress
I think it'll probably be done tomorrow. Basically I need to cut the corners of the lexan, wire it, and bolt everything down to the base. I might need to frick with the sheet metal over the panels a little bit, I feel like I did somewhat of a shitty job with that.
its a riptide with matrix sensors and an extra 6 inches + a 2x6 for the bar
EDIT: HUGE IMAGE
linked it instead |
|
Back to top |
|
|
ChilliumBromide Trick Member
Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Location: Beaverton, OR |
6331. Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2007 9:52 pm Post subject: |
|
|
That's some good progress, but I gotta warn you that wiring it up takes a long time. It seems like it should be fairly quick to just lay a couple of wires, but it's not. _________________
I used to be active here lol |
|
Back to top |
|
|
daikenkai =[ Trick Member
Joined: 01 Oct 2006 Location: 6:51AM getting Diet Pepsi max for keep wake up |
6332. Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2007 11:09 pm Post subject: |
|
|
These homepads just keep getting better and better looking. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
DMS Trick Member
Joined: 08 Jul 2007
|
6333. Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 1:14 pm Post subject: |
|
|
SoymilkCharlie wrote: | That's some good progress, but I gotta warn you that wiring it up takes a long time. It seems like it should be fairly quick to just lay a couple of wires, but it's not. | Wiring is the reason I stopped. It takes soooo long and is the most boring part. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
slvrshdw Trick Member
Joined: 05 Jan 2005
|
6334. Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 8:45 pm Post subject: |
|
|
what are you guys talking about?!
wiring is the BEST part heh...
anyway, wiring does take a while, and its not the best part, but you just have to stick with it
::just for anyone who cares::
im building a pop'n music controller now.
it is almost done, and i will get pics sometime...just not sure when/if people care about it though _________________
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
burningforce Basic Member
Joined: 31 Jul 2007
|
6335. Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 9:35 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I need help with the wiring part, there is a few questions I have.
I am making a stoli pad and just can not find a wiring guide that I can easily follow.
I will be using a softpad that I bought from amazon.com that is pictured Here
now for the questions.
I solder 2 wires to the bottom sheet metal, 1 for the arrow to register and the other is ground. After I solder all the wires to the sheet metal arrow panels and buttons, I take all the ground wires from the arrow panels and put them together and solder them to the PCB slot for ground. Am I correct so far?
also how do I make sure there is no static build-up within the pad? Is there a specific way to get rid of the static electricity? I will be working on a metal table and tiled floor if that matters.
thanks for the help |
|
Back to top |
|
|
ChilliumBromide Trick Member
Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Location: Beaverton, OR |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Silenkiller Basic Member
Joined: 29 Jul 2007
|
6337. Posted: Wed Aug 15, 2007 10:53 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Alright. Finally finished my DDR pad! Heres a few pictures, let me know what you think Works Great!
I borrowed a controller from an old soft pad. I'm surprised more people don't do this.
55 hours, 260 dollars or so to complete.
http://img237.imageshack.us/img237/8015/15ks7.jpg |
|
Back to top |
|
|
stupidhead Basic Member
Joined: 15 Aug 2007
|
6338. Posted: Wed Aug 15, 2007 10:59 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I've been thinking about constructing a homemade pad for DDR. I've seen all the examples and get how to construct the sensors and framing.
The only system I have right now though, is a Wii. Since the new game coming out for the wii is going to be capadable with the mats they use in the DDR Mario version, I was wondering what I need to wire the pad to. The circuitry in a gamecube controller, or circuitry in the DDR Mario mats? If its the controller, is it basically the same thing as the PS controllers in terms of wiring everything up correctly? |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Ghettobarney Trick Member
Joined: 21 Dec 2006 Location: Failing Pandy |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|