My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)

ChilliumBromide · Trick Member Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Location: Beaverton, OR

So, how are those homebrews coming along, guys? (I don't want this to become an eating disorder thread. Sorry guys.)
_________________

I used to be active here lol

burningforce · Basic Member Joined: 31 Jul 2007

DMS · Trick Member Joined: 08 Jul 2007

AJAX the Insomniac · Trick Member Joined: 11 Sep 2006 Location: Haledon, NJ

I'll go to Puerto Rico first. (I do need my birthday money in order to build this anyway...lol)

ChilliumBromide · Trick Member Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Location: Beaverton, OR

I'm trying to decide whether I should make the prototype with a bar or not.

I want to try my bar design, but I don't want the bar to affect the testing of the sensors, and I can't decide between making a wooden bar or metal bar.
_________________

I used to be active here lol

VoijaRisa · Trick Member Joined: 10 Dec 2005 Location: Lawrence KS

After nearly 2 years in the making, mine's just about finished:

It's essentially a Stoli design but with a few differences: I used industrial springs instead of weatherstripping; Each button is held in place by bolts with the threads filed off to allow them to slide; There is a screw terminal in the front.

It's playable at this point but there's still some issues that need to be resolved:

1. The center square is raised too high: I wanted it slightly raised so the arrows would be indented like an arcade pad, but this center step is about 1/4 an inch up. It makes it impossible to do slide steps. I also tried it without shoes on and cut one of my toes on the corner. So it really needs to be lowered and have the edges rounded off.

2. It's heavy as Jabba the Hutt: I want to either put some sort of handle on it, or carve out grips.

3. It's somewhat creaky: Not sure what can be done about this.

4. No metal coverings: I have the metal, but the bar break my dad has can't bend it so I couldn't put the pieces on.

If anyone wants them, I can post more pictures later of any of the workings you'd like to see.

mikieson · Trick Member Joined: 14 Nov 2003

OK..I give up...I have been building pads for about 4 years now. I always use corner brackets...either store bought, or ones I make.

How do you make the arrows without the corner brackets work? Please link me or draw something, or post pics....Thanks

Kalek · Posted: Sun Aug 05, 2007 7:35 pm Post subject:

bought everything i need today to make a riptide pad but with lexan and matrix sensors and a bar except corner brackets (Lowes didn't have them, trying home depot like tomorrow) and mouse pad (my parents said they might be able to get them free through work).

also i am waiting for my brother and my friend to become available to help (friend has to work a lot, brother lives out of state but is coming to visit in like 5 days) because I have zero building experience, my brother wants to help, and my friend is an arcade tech that has a sweet soldering iron lol

oh btw, i have one question. do i have to raise up the mending brackets at all on washers like the original riptide design? thinking about it, probably not.

i got corner mending brackets instead of straight ones if that matters

idConstruct · Trick Member Joined: 12 Mar 2007 Location: Green Bay, WI

ChilliumBromide · Trick Member Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Location: Beaverton, OR

idConstruct · Trick Member Joined: 12 Mar 2007 Location: Green Bay, WI

ChilliumBromide · Trick Member Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Location: Beaverton, OR

Yes. That's handy.

Oh, have I shown you my revised screw design for the DT600? If not, gmail me and I'll send it to you. It's probably one of the best designs I've done so far, and it's just a screw.
_________________

I used to be active here lol

stoli · Trick Member Joined: 27 Mar 2005 Location: Southern NH

VoijaRisa · Trick Member Joined: 10 Dec 2005 Location: Lawrence KS

Here's how my stepping panels work without corner brackets:

Here's the bottom of each button. There's 4 small holes in which bolts are placed that hold the entire thing down to the bottom.

The holes in the wood piece that forms the base of the arrow has larger holes in it. This allows the head to go down in there, but not get through the small holes in the metal switch part.

The screws are attached to the base and can be tightened to adjust sensitivity.

The bolts we used for this had the threads ground off using a dremmel at the upper end so the step would be able to slide freely.

MasterInuYasha · Posted: Mon Aug 06, 2007 1:48 pm Post subject:

Damn it.

I've went through atleast 30 pages

I couldn't find a SINGLE post about the wiring diagram of a PS2 softpad control box.. I did, But none of the images worked.

Can someone help me out?

ChilliumBromide · Trick Member Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Location: Beaverton, OR

I have it all written down somewhere, but I'm not sure where the piece of paper I wrote it down on is.

The one on the far left is start, far right is select. I think that the 2nd from the left is left, the 4th from the left is up, the 2nd from the right is down, and the 4th from the right is right.
_________________

I used to be active here lol

MasterInuYasha · Posted: Mon Aug 06, 2007 11:16 pm Post subject:

That helps alot..........

MasterInuYasha · Posted: Tue Aug 07, 2007 12:13 pm Post subject:

The one I went by was the wrong one and didn't work.

Genfuyung · Basic Member Joined: 26 Jul 2007