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My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)
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ChilliumBromide
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6080. PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2007 10:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

pooface wrote:
Well, the piece I cut for the base of the pad is nice and even, but the solid panels I have cut are very, very slightly curved.
If you aren't using them as the button panels, then just screw them down tight with the curved side facing down. The fibres in the wood should adjust over time and the wood will flatten out.
Use a power drill when drilling it in and tighten the screws every 10 to 15 songs.
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pooface
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6081. PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2007 9:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SoymilkCharlie wrote:
tighten the screws every 10 to 15 songs.


Just in the beginning, right? I don't want to always have to tighten the screws every 10 songs or so.
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ChilliumBromide
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6082. PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2007 1:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

pooface wrote:
SoymilkCharlie wrote:
tighten the screws every 10 to 15 songs.


Just in the beginning, right? I don't want to always have to tighten the screws every 10 songs or so.
Yeah. After a week or two, they should just stay in fine.

However, from the initial adjustments, you may wind up stripping the screws, so start out with some slightly smaller screws and have some bigger screws to use after the initial breaking-in.
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Hertigen
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6083. PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2007 6:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was wondering, why do most designs use two pieces of acrylic per arrow? Why not just using only one, thicker piece?
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infamous360
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6084. PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2007 6:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hertigen wrote:
I was wondering, why do most designs use two pieces of acrylic per arrow? Why not just using only one, thicker piece?


my guess is that you need somewhere to put the arrow graphics and that it just works better?

btw will someone please tell me how to wire up arcade sensors to my pad?
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ChilliumBromide
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6085. PostPosted: Thu Jun 28, 2007 7:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's 'cause people don't want to get custom 11"x11" decals made that will just wear away in a few years anyway, so they put custom printed arrows in between the two panels instead.
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poppscc
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6086. PostPosted: Sat Jun 30, 2007 8:34 am    Post subject: Re: Sensor Layout Reply with quote

Crimson7 wrote:
Would it be a good idea to put the sensors in this layout?



this is exactly how I did my layout. I'm almost done with my pad, but I dont know how to do a control box. not sure what to do when it comes down to that subject.
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Power Surge
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6087. PostPosted: Sat Jun 30, 2007 2:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've started building a Riptide pad some time ago and it's almost done. All that's left to do is finish putting in the sensors and arrow graphics, but I'm having trouble with the sensors. I need a good sensor layout (with instructions, pics, and materials listed) that'll work with a Riptide pad. Every attempt I've made so far has ended in failure. I could care less about noise, but a quiet design would be icing on the cake.

BTW, I used a different type of wood for my pad instead of plywood. I forgot what it's called, but it's more or less the same material from which pegboard is made, except it's thicker and there's no holes in it. Also, not only does it resist warping and is easier to work with, but it's cheaper than plywood as well (4' x 8' x 3/4" board costs $20 at Home Depot; plywood of the same dimensions costs $30 or so, last time I checked). To anyone building a pad, I'd suggest using that instead of plywood.
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Ghettobarney
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6088. PostPosted: Sat Jun 30, 2007 3:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I believe your talking about MDF?
I hear matrix sensors, next to actual arcade ones, work best. Also, I would like to know how to make good matrix sensors becuase last time I tried on my own it ended in catastrophie.
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Power Surge
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6089. PostPosted: Sat Jun 30, 2007 5:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

And how do I make these matrix sensors? link to instructions plz.
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ChilliumBromide
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6090. PostPosted: Sun Jul 01, 2007 12:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Power Surge wrote:
I've started building a Riptide pad some time ago and it's almost done. All that's left to do is finish putting in the sensors and arrow graphics, but I'm having trouble with the sensors. I need a good sensor layout (with instructions, pics, and materials listed) that'll work with a Riptide pad. Every attempt I've made so far has ended in failure. I could care less about noise, but a quiet design would be icing on the cake.

BTW, I used a different type of wood for my pad instead of plywood. I forgot what it's called, but it's more or less the same material from which pegboard is made, except it's thicker and there's no holes in it. Also, not only does it resist warping and is easier to work with, but it's cheaper than plywood as well (4' x 8' x 3/4" board costs $20 at Home Depot; plywood of the same dimensions costs $30 or so, last time I checked). To anyone building a pad, I'd suggest using that instead of plywood.
Uh. . . particle board? I actually wouldn't recommend it. There's a good reason it's so cheap.
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Hertigen
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6091. PostPosted: Sun Jul 01, 2007 1:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've put together test sensors. I've tried both Riptide and Matrix sensors, and I don't get how Matrix sensors are supposed to be better. I don't understand what's better in having a mending bracket making contact with screws vs sheet metal making contact with screws? And I find Matrix sensors noisier, but that could be me?
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Matrlx
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6092. PostPosted: Sun Jul 01, 2007 7:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The difference (as I see it anyways E13.gif ) is the control you get over the sensitivity of the sensor. Sure, you can tune them both to work equally as well, but it's much easier to contain what dictates the sensitivity to the sensor only and have nothing to do with the panel.

You can make the clearance between the screws and the mending brackets very small, think about the time and effort it would take to achieve the same clearance with sheet metal attached to the panel.

Not really sure about the noise.. mine made just as much as the riptide pad after I switched.. not sure why it would make more?

Anyways, I've been getting a bunch of questions about the sensors lately, I'll be putting together a set of instructions/tutorial on how to make them all good and proper pretty soon.
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Hertigen
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6093. PostPosted: Sun Jul 01, 2007 9:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That would be nice of you. E1.gif
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ChilliumBromide
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6094. PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2007 10:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Matrlx didn't mention the most basic and essential point: Mending brackets are stiff, tough, and flat. Every time the screws hit a piece of sheet steel, they dent it, unless you've got some steel plates, which is essentially what the mending brackets are.

Another thing about the Matrlx sensors is that you can build them self-contained. That is, you can build a sensor without building any other part of the pad. I can't really think of how to explain why that's such a good thing, but it is. E15.gif
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slvrshdw
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6095. PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2007 9:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

sorry ive been gone, and i may be gone for a bit more

to answer a few peoples questions,

plexiglas (yes, the brand is actually spelled with ONE 's', according to SM spellcheck)
2 plex is mainly for the graphic (or thats what i say)
i have one thick piece and one thin piece on my good pad now


as for matrix sensors..(i dont know the difference in sound, i thought they were about the same personally)
first, they are more like arcade sensors
second, easier to adjust
third, easier to put together
fourth, wont wear out (my sheet metal got beaten up like crazy for the riptide design)
fifth, costs more (had to say something bad about them laugh.gif )

also, my site at www.ddr.animearchivez.com* has some of the basics of the sensors, you may want to browse that if you arent sure

*check quick, cause my site is going down in a little over month (august'07-ish) and may or may not be back depending if i can find either some one to mirror it or if i find a new host
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pooface
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6096. PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2007 10:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I'm wiring my pad right now and I need to know where to solder to for an Ignition 3.0 control box.
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ChilliumBromide
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6097. PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2007 10:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hay gaiz.

I've done some basic setup for my site, so anyone who wants to have their pads, mods, ASC's, et cetera, on my homebrews page, let me know.
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Weston
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6098. PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 7:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would love for my site to have more attention... check sig plz, and thank you!
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infamous360
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6099. PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2007 8:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Weston wrote:
I would love for my site to have more attention... check sig plz, and thank you!

you need to the redirect links to the instructions
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