My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)

penguinxtreme · Trick Member Joined: 17 Feb 2007

[quote="idConstruct"]

meander · Trick Member Joined: 05 Feb 2007 Location: Greenfield, MA

so, i just took the control board out of my broken ignition 3, and surprisingly, the contacts arent labeled. i can figure it out with some work, but if anyones got a diagram or whatever of which are which itd speed things up greatly
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Groovestats!
My Pad!

Verithos · Basic Member Joined: 24 Mar 2007

Hello everyone, i'm rather new to this forum but i've played ddr on and off for a few years now.

My fiance' and i are looking to make our own home brew pad but the catch is we wanna use the 360 to play it on.

We bought the universal mix thing and have that soft pad, what my question is could I go ahead and make a pad using this controller but just follow the steps in the other guides on how to construct a pad the same way? Or will things be different?

It's going to be me, my fiance, and my best friend who are going in on this endeavor so any help or input would be appreciated.

ChilliumBromide · Trick Member Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Location: Beaverton, OR

It should have the same chip design as the other official konami pads. You can definitely use the chip with any of the guides here.
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Verithos · Basic Member Joined: 24 Mar 2007

Thanks we appreciate it:D

There were a couple pads we saw that looked really nice, had metallic siding which we liked but *MY* biggest concern is I want it to be the same size as an arcade pad as possible as i'm a big guy and the cobalts just didn't feel right, i don't know how to explain it really but they just didn't feel up to snuff for me.

My friend and I saw the ripetide videos and they look pretty nifty, but I liked the encasing idea I saw on page 294 from the 3d model one but like I said, i'm really mostly concerned with an arcade feeling pad and also one that I can use shoes on ( I just can't seem to ddr without shoes on very well, feels too weird not to).

Any suggestions as to types to delve into plan wise?

slvrshdw · Trick Member Joined: 05 Jan 2005

well, if you want one like the riptide style/arcade style, my tutorial with pretty much step by step instructions should be up very soon (all i have is the pics)

that being said, i hope its up within a week (depending on the homework load >.<)

i probably won't be able to do anything on it for the next couple of days, but let me know if you are interested Verithos (it'll force me to work harder

)
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ChilliumBromide · Trick Member Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Location: Beaverton, OR

Any metal pad design here can be made arcade-exact. Here's some specs:

Thickness: 3"
Bar: 36"
Panels: 10.9" (the .1" is so that they don't get wedged in and totally fail, because the sheet steel covering would make it too tight if they were all exactly 11")
Rim: 1"
Rear bar-fin: 5" (I think. It might be 6")
panel recess: varies between 0.15" and 0.05". It's a tiny amount of space, but it's pretty important anyway.

Pick whatever design looks best to you, and minor adjustments will make it possible to build it to those dimensions. There are a number of ways to produce your decals. Getting them specially printed on 11"x11" paper is the most basic and most commonly used method. PIU sensors > Betson sensors, if you want to use pressure sensors. I've played on a new DDR machine and a new Pump machine in the same day before, and the Pump machine was far more sensitive.
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I used to be active here lol

samtorx · Trick Member Joined: 21 Mar 2007

i ripped the circuit board out of my plastic mat (for xbox). i can use it for the new pad rite?

ChilliumBromide · Trick Member Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Location: Beaverton, OR

Eradicator · Basic Member Joined: 09 Dec 2005

Eradicator · Basic Member Joined: 09 Dec 2005

samtorx · Trick Member Joined: 21 Mar 2007

quick question.. what should i solder the wires to on the circuit board

(ignore the place where the wires are soldered rofl, and its not my pic ne wayl)

the space between the pins are really small and im not turning it into a control box just connecting it to arrow sensors. would the bottom (black lines) work?

Weston · Trick Member Joined: 17 Feb 2003 Location: Minnesota

Thank you, Eradicator. I'll look over the dimensions again, because it looks like I may have written something wrong.

EDIT: After checking dimensions, an 18" stem would make the support reach way beyond the middle of the pad. 11 1/2" should only have the stem reach about 1/3 way into the center panel, leaving space between each stem so that wires can pass through (this is how it looks with your progress now, right?). Good catch, I don't know why I put such a long measurement.

Eradicator · Basic Member Joined: 09 Dec 2005

slvrshdw · Trick Member Joined: 05 Jan 2005

Eradicator · Basic Member Joined: 09 Dec 2005

ChilliumBromide · Trick Member Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Location: Beaverton, OR

Okay, soldering question, because there is no way I'm actually going to sell pads held together by electrical tape:

A soldering iron looks like a little device with two metal prongs that meet at the end, right? I want to be sure the thing in my shed that looks like it's most definitely a soldering iron is a soldering iron before I go poking my pads with it.

What do I use for the solder? Something tells me I'm not going to be too successful trying to get a steel wire to just melt onto a copper wire, because the would take temperatures that would light the wood on fire, and something tells me a soldering iron just doesn't get that hot. So, is there some metal (other than mercury) that melts at relatively low temperatures that I'm supposed to use?

Thanks guys. =)
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I used to be active here lol

idConstruct · Trick Member Joined: 12 Mar 2007 Location: Green Bay, WI

hobby shops will probably have it... i know for a fact that radio shack has it because thats where i bought my iron. Last time i got solder was actually at my local Ace hardware... (they use solder sometimes on gas pipes for a good seal)

as for that thing you have, it sounds like its probably a soldering gun.. (as opposed to a soldering iron) ... i've never used one though. I'd say just go buy some solder and try soldering two scrap wires together with it. If it doesn't work, radio shack has decent ones starting at about $10 for a dual temp. model

another thing to consider is that there are a couple different types of solder... there's low temp solder thats lead based usually, and thats good for circuit boards... if you're doing more heavy duty soldering, the high temp models might be better because they're usually stronger. You can easily get away with just the low temp stuff though...
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Eradicator · Basic Member Joined: 09 Dec 2005