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psystummy
Basic Member
Joined: 29 Jan 2007
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5800.  Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 8:30 am Post subject: |
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| Weston wrote: | | Alright, the guide is completed and ready for upload, minus the Pad Performance section since I really haven't had a chance to try it out hardcore. I have links to DDRHomePad's and Matrix's sites in the special thanks section, so I hope you guys don't mind. I also have a page that links to other DDR home built pads, so if you want me to add you to the list, let me know and provide a link. Lastly, am I correct in assuming that Tweder provided the pink and blue arrow graphics on one of these pages? I have him listed in the thanks section. |
did you already post a link to your website? i must've missed it, if you did. i've been following this thread every so often, don't think i missed it  also, were you the individual that has built like 5 pads, and use a form of the Matrix sensor design? i've seen others say on this forum that they prefer this design in the sensors, but i cannot find what the actual design or write up for it. as soon as i find out what this elusive matrix sensor design is, i can buy all my materials to start out my pads. thanks, i appreciate everyone taking the time to write up designs and posting it; also giving advice to nubs like me.
| Power Surge wrote: | | Quick question: when I build my next pad, I plan to have the wires from the controller pass through a Cat 5 cable, so where can I get those little outlet things that accept RJ-45 connectors? |
EDIT:
p.s. http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=105&cp_id=10513&style=
although i have little helpful info in pad building, i do know tons about computers. for your hardware needs, you can get one of the rj45 tooless keystone jacks in the link provided above (~$2), then buy a wall plate for keystone ($1 plus smalling shipping on the whole order) if you actually wanted one of those for your pad (not really sure if this is what you meant by "little outlet things for rj-45"). this site is wonderful, and has all sorts of these quality components for home theater and computer networking at a good price. of course, if you don't want to buy online you can buy the wall plate with the rj45 keystone in it already for like ~$20 for a 2 pack (it may be more or less since it's been awhile) from best buy or at fry's electronic (not sure cost there).
http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=105&cp_id=10517&style=
Last edited by psystummy on Sun Mar 04, 2007 10:27 am, edited 1 time in total |
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Weston
Trick Member
Joined: 17 Feb 2003
Location: Minnesota |
| 5801. Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 10:06 am Post subject: |
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Power Surge: I've seen all kinds of connectors at the wiring section at The Home Depot and Lowe's. It's worth a look.
psystummy: No, I haven't uploaded yet, and that's why I'm asking if anyone wants me to link to their page. As for the other part of your question, yes, except this is only my third pad. |
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AZtenfooter
Trick Member
Joined: 21 Jan 2007
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| 5802. Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 7:35 pm Post subject: |
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ok soo this may seem like a forward question but i have put a lot of thought into it.
how do i go about making a metal pad having no pad building experiance/DIY experiance
everytime i download riptides DIY videos, they just show up as audio. am i stupid or are they audio and i didnt get the memo.
ok anyways. i have limited building supplies i.e. no circular saw/no jigsaw/no wiring experiance(but my moms an electronics tech. works for the ARMY)/ and not a huge budget.
i know most people would say do the research, but i have.
i need an alternate design or something and a lot of help
ive done all i can
i just need a kick on the glutes to get me in the right direction.
i would appreciate any help.
-aztenfooter
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slvrshdw
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Joined: 05 Jan 2005
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| 5803. Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 8:05 pm Post subject: |
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@weston: give me your tut stuff and i should be able to host them on my site (and my friend..but whatever, same thing)
i was one of the ones who posted the real DDR graphics..i plan to host them on my site once my tut is up
@power surge: i got my connector at fry's, but ive seen them at circuit city too
@psystummy: the matrix sensor is just mending brackets with a mouse pad in between them...im going to have pics on my modified version in my tutorial
@AZtenfooter: i bet you dont have the right video codecs to play the videos. download VLC media player, then it should work fine (VLC is really good) anyway, not having the tools may make building the pad kind of difficult. on my tutorial, i plan to have a pretty detailed wiring section, so that shouldnt matter too much. (wiring isnt that bad on the pad)
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Weston
Trick Member
Joined: 17 Feb 2003
Location: Minnesota |
| 5804. Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 8:39 pm Post subject: |
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Ah, sweet! First I want to try uploading to my FTP space first, so I can easily make updates and changes as necessary. I have 2MB to work with and the guide is 1MB. If I can't get it, I'll come to you next.
The arrows I used were this and this, so I want to make sure I am crediting the right person. |
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AZtenfooter
Trick Member
Joined: 21 Jan 2007
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| 5805. Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 8:56 pm Post subject: |
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| slvrshdw wrote: | | @AZtenfooter: i bet you dont have the right video codecs to play the videos. download VLC media player, then it should work fine (VLC is really good) anyway, not having the tools may make building the pad kind of difficult. on my tutorial, i plan to have a pretty detailed wiring section, so that shouldnt matter too much. (wiring isnt that bad on the pad) |
ok when will your tutorial be finished?
and i can see if i can go to a friends to do all my cutting and such.
and will your tutorials be video or written?
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ChilliumBromide
Trick Member
Joined: 16 Jun 2006
Location: Beaverton, OR |
| 5806. Posted: Sun Mar 04, 2007 10:48 pm Post subject: |
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So, I spent a few hours today working on my DT600 prototype. Unfortunately, it seems that, despite the fact that I measured every cut 3-5 times before hand, I've still got 89° angles, so I'll be spending a good chunk of time trying to sand them all down with a powersander, and then I'll go get a steel-cutting jigsaw blade and twiddle my thumbs until my sheet steel gets here.
I finally found the little handheld jigsaw my grandpa has, and it's saving me lots of time. I might get a new regular blade for it too, because the old one's bent and rusty, and I think my cuts would be cleaner and straighter with a new blade.
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penguinxtreme
Trick Member
Joined: 17 Feb 2007
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| 5807. Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2007 2:19 pm Post subject: |
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| AZtenfooter wrote: | ok soo this may seem like a forward question but i have put a lot of thought into it.
how do i go about making a metal pad having no pad building experiance/DIY experiance
everytime i download riptides DIY videos, they just show up as audio. am i stupid or are they audio and i didnt get the memo.
ok anyways. i have limited building supplies i.e. no circular saw/no jigsaw/no wiring experiance(but my moms an electronics tech. works for the ARMY)/ and not a huge budget.
i know most people would say do the research, but i have.
i need an alternate design or something and a lot of help
ive done all i can
i just need a kick on the glutes to get me in the right direction.
i would appreciate any help.
-aztenfooter |
As for no building experience and lack of tools, you can get by with just a power drill actually. All you have to do it get your plexi from a glass shop (it costs the same amount, and they precut it), and ask the guys at home depot to cut the wood for you once you have your design (it doesn't cost extra, just be specific that it has to be accurate). Other than that, as long as you have a power drill and a good set of drill and screw bits, and a soldering iron, you should be fine. As for keeping cost down, finding a replacement for sheet metal and plexi would save a ton, but then it wouldn't be a metal pad, so keeping the metal pad spirit, it will cost you at least $60, which is possible as long as you use cheap wood (home depot sells perfectly good, but cosmetically damaged wood for like 1$ a piece), and keep the costs down otherwise using cheap (but at least reasonable quality) materials. (no corner brackets!) The pad I am making is costing about $65-70, and $40 is from metal and plexi combined, while only $20-25ish (depending what you count as materials) is going onto the base, the sensors, and the controller and mods (taking out analog sticks and replacing them with tiny 5K resistors between each contact, imitating the 10K potentiometer, and putting on push buttons) and about $5 more for the graphics, for which I am using chinese symbols, but instead of the riptide design, I am using the symbol for dance, revolution (consists of two symbols), and then a rough translation of my name, happiness, for the last symbol. I am also replacing the white middle with a bright neonish green. |
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slvrshdw
Trick Member
Joined: 05 Jan 2005
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| 5808. Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2007 2:44 pm Post subject: |
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as for tools, you may want a sander too.
anyway, my tutorial will be pictures/text. If anyone is still confused i can always make a video. the only problem with that is my camera doesnt have a mic, so I'd either have to edit in my voice, or just go w/o one :-/
im pretty close to being finished on my tut...i think 1 or 2 more pages and then i can start working on how to build the cab 
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penguinxtreme
Trick Member
Joined: 17 Feb 2007
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| 5809. Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2007 11:46 am Post subject: |
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| slvrshdw wrote: | as for tools, you may want a sander too.
anyway, my tutorial will be pictures/text. If anyone is still confused i can always make a video. the only problem with that is my camera doesnt have a mic, so I'd either have to edit in my voice, or just go w/o one :-/
im pretty close to being finished on my tut...i think 1 or 2 more pages and then i can start working on how to build the cab |
Though voice is preferable, if you do good subtitling with instructions that you actually have enough time to read it can come back just as good. Can't wait to see your tut, even though I'm almost done with my own pad, I am interested in new ideas to improve it or in the future make a new one.l |
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Katalyst
Basic Member
Joined: 07 Sep 2003
Location: Buford, GA |
| 5810. Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2007 12:37 pm Post subject: |
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I'm in the process of redoing my second pad a bit and I figured I'd go ahead and wire in a DB-9 connector to a custom control box. I just wanted to know if there's any standard that other DB-9 connected control boxes use as far which pins are what. Otherwise, I was just going to do this:
If there is a standard to go by, I'd do that instead to kinda give me the flexibility of being able to use someone else's control box in the future. |
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ChilliumBromide
Trick Member
Joined: 16 Jun 2006
Location: Beaverton, OR |
| 5811. Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2007 9:02 pm Post subject: |
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I'm not sure that would work with most CB's, unfortunately. I'll try to remember to check for you, but don't stand on one leg waiting.
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Katalyst
Basic Member
Joined: 07 Sep 2003
Location: Buford, GA |
| 5812. Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2007 10:30 pm Post subject: |
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Alright, according to _ter's "TerTerBox" (link), the Colbalt Flux pin configuration is like this:
Same as I was going to do, just start and select reversed. Although, I thought the CF control box was a 15-pin with this configuration :/. Really, I just want to be able to grab on PS2/XBOX/USB control box in the future that will work with my pad. I've seen two (link1 - link2) 9-pin PS2/XBOX/USB control boxes. I haven't gotten the connectors just yet so I guess I'll do a bit more searching first. |
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Weston
Trick Member
Joined: 17 Feb 2003
Location: Minnesota |
| 5813. Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2007 9:03 pm Post subject: |
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Finished and uploaded the guide! I would appreciate it if you guys could look through and give feedback. I didn't proof read all of it, so there might be error. Let me know if you see anything confusing.
DJ3 Pad Guide |
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ChilliumBromide
Trick Member
Joined: 16 Jun 2006
Location: Beaverton, OR |
| 5814. Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2007 9:56 pm Post subject: |
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Little typo on the "other pads" page.
| Quote: | | The one on the left is the Patser design with lights inside, giving it a very cool effect. The one on the left is a DDRHomePad design with extra corner buttons. |
Awesome job. =) I like the inclusion of handles. How well do they hold up?
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Weston
Trick Member
Joined: 17 Feb 2003
Location: Minnesota |
| 5815. Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2007 11:33 pm Post subject: |
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Ah, thanks Tofu. I'm glad you caught that.
The handles hold up pretty well, I haven't had problems. I did have to use longer screws though because the ones that came with it would only reach into the frame. |
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ChilliumBromide
Trick Member
Joined: 16 Jun 2006
Location: Beaverton, OR |
| 5816. Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2007 12:30 am Post subject: |
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| Weston wrote: | Ah, thanks Tofu. I'm glad you caught that.
The handles hold up pretty well, I haven't had problems. I did have to use longer screws though because the ones that came with it would only reach into the frame. |
No problemo. =)
I'm considering using steel bars set into the frames and bases of the DT200's. They'd be impossible to move otherwise. I'm not sure if handles like the ones you use would be able to hold 150-200lbs. What do you think?
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Weston
Trick Member
Joined: 17 Feb 2003
Location: Minnesota |
| 5817. Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2007 10:29 am Post subject: |
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| The handles hold quite a bit of weight on my Patser pad, which is well over 100 pounds, I am guessing. The handles on that one are pretty heavy duty. Although if your pad is going to be heavier, maybe you could use large bolts and a strong handle. |
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penguinxtreme
Trick Member
Joined: 17 Feb 2007
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| 5818. Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2007 12:01 pm Post subject: |
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| nice guide. I didn't really feel like reading through it all as my pad is almost done (I'll be finishing up on the weekend), and I don't intend on making a new one soon, but the guide from what I read looks very nice and readable. Easy to follow. One thing I would do is do an itemized price list for the components, so people understand what the price is coming from, as many times there are ways to save money without sacrificing quality, and cheapos like me get turned off by the $170 price tag. I am also wondering how much the thing weighs? |
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slvrshdw
Trick Member
Joined: 05 Jan 2005
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| 5819. Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2007 1:21 pm Post subject: |
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seems pretty good
mine goes is a little different than his design, and mine also goes in greater detail for the "mechanically challenged" people out there ;-)
anyway, im not sure exactly when i'll get it done since i have some other things i have to do, but i hope its pretty soon (plus i'm going to be gone for a while so boo  )
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