My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)

ChilliumBromide · Trick Member Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Location: Beaverton, OR

Well, 16 @ $10ea is still 160 per pad.

You're looking at $300-$800 no matter where you go for a doubles platform.

I figure they'd be a great think to learn how to mass produce.

Trust me, if I ever can mass produce good quality pressure sensors, DTG will make 'em as cheap as possible. I think it's outrageous to have to pay $10-$25 per sensor for a private machine.
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shariyakugan · Basic Member Joined: 14 Feb 2007 Location: Netherlands

Has anyone tried using this stuff on the top of a switch panel?

I don't know what the hell this stuff is called in english, It's traanplaat in Dutch wich would be something like tearplate in english.
I'm not sure if it would be a good idea, but you would feel real good where you are standing and it would look really cool.

devout · Trick Member Joined: 15 Dec 2006 Location: the atl

I think it's called diamond plate or diamond tread plate here. I also think it would look really cool... never tried it though. It costs about 2-3x as much as plain sheet steel, and you'd have to cut it with a saw and probably cant bend it around the squares (have to just cut an 11x11 piece and screw it to the top. Thats a little more work/money than I'm looking for... If someone did it though it would rock.

ChilliumBromide · Trick Member Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Location: Beaverton, OR

I NEED to find a way to use that somewhere on my SM machine. =D

Maybe I'll have that as speaker covers.

How big are the slits?
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slvrshdw · Trick Member Joined: 05 Jan 2005

im not sure the diamond plate would be good on a pad just because thats made for grip...and the pads are made to be able to slide on...

actually using it on a SM machine would be sweet..i may have to try it if i have money

anyway, i put my TV in the cab, loaded SM on the comp, adjusted the screen and everything, redid my sensors in the pad, added center support PLUS 2 more sensors in the center

anyway, the machine is ALOT closer to being done..id say around 70-80%
even though its 100% working, i need to work out all the bugs in it tho (not too many) and then finish up the random things i want to add to it

*is happy*

oh ya, im getting some pics of the construction when i remember, and my site is closer to being done (yay for easy webmastering class)
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ChilliumBromide · Trick Member Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Location: Beaverton, OR

I did a search for it. I can't find any with the slits, just the bumps, which isn't what I want. xP
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Weston · Trick Member Joined: 17 Feb 2003 Location: Minnesota

The written part of the guide is pretty much finished. Just need to draw up a couple diagrams for the controller, wiring, and a specific piece. Then I'll upload it to my cuttent ftp space in a nice html format... assuming I'll have enough space to do so.

EDIT: Guide completed. Will upload soon.

KuroiOokami · Trick Member Joined: 02 Mar 2007 Location: Burnaby, BC

Hey guys, first time poster. I've read through a lot of this thread and want to build a Stoli style pad. However, I've looked all over and the stainless steel #8 mirror finish is nowhere to be found in 26 gauge. The thinnest I've found is 18 gauge and I haven't found anyone that will order in a sheet of 26g.

I don't know a lot about sheet metal so can someone give me a hand deciding what I should use for an alternative? I would prefer something that looks shiny. Is there anything else like mirror finish stainless? I want something that will still look good and hopefully cost less. The closest I've found is stainless steel brush polish which looks like the stuff on fridges and such. But it's $160 for a 4x10 sheet, which is ridiculous (they won't cut it in half for me). So any suggestions on what to use and look for?

ChilliumBromide · Trick Member Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Location: Beaverton, OR

KuroiOokami · Trick Member Joined: 02 Mar 2007 Location: Burnaby, BC

Sure, but if they don't have anything bigger than that I don't think it will work on Stoli's design. The borders are 3 1/2' long which is bigger than those sheets.

Power Surge · Basic Member Joined: 02 Mar 2007

I recently built a Riptide pad and I plan on building another one with blue beefman's mod in mind. I understand that he used silicone tubing instead of weather stripping, but what contact design did he use? Any links would be appreciated (I checked the first few pages without any luck, and I'm not checking the other 200-some pages; I don't have that kind of patience).

Also, my pad has gotten sweat stains on it from heavy use, and nothing I do seems to get the stains out. What kind of metal is affordable, easy to work with, and easy to clean? Or better yet, what kind of protective coating can I add to the metal to make it easy to clean?

Thanks in advance.

slvrshdw · Trick Member Joined: 05 Jan 2005

once again, i use aluminum flashing

its really shiny, pretty cheap...only downside is its pretty thin, so it kinda gets beaten up a bit (but if you really wanted, you can just redo it

)

im not sure on the beefman pad..as i came in here after he already left

also, i think windex cleans it..or a nail polish remover (acetone (sp?)) type stuff i think would be pretty good too

anyway, update on my pad guys:
its coming along SOOOO nicely now.
a couple days ago i added center supports that doubled as extra sensors. it works so much better now. the freezes work much better, just have to adjust it perfectly

anyway, today i went to lowe's to get the PVC materials, ~$20, and put it together. it seems to be pretty good. i have to wait til tomm for the glue to dry. i actually based my bar design of that guy's from cobalt flux forums, but i changed a few minor things

ill have pics hopefully tomm of it

i think its probably one of the most arcade-like homepad built (but without lights...for now) anyway, i like it alot so far

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ChilliumBromide · Trick Member Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Location: Beaverton, OR

slvrshdw · Trick Member Joined: 05 Jan 2005

ok guys, heres a preview pic for what my tut will most likely include

and its not 100% yet, but its reallllllly close now

this is before i glued the PVC together

my friend getting ready to test it out (not good yet)

better view of the pad

...the bar is completely detachable

my friend saw this on the PVC and we had to get a picture cause it was awesome

the reason the pad isnt 100% yet is because i had to change the base board i used because i added the back and front "frame" as i have been calling it. by changing that i had to redo my center sensors, and also had to re-adjust the sensitivity.
im still not sure if im going to actually buy more sheet metal (flashing) to cover the back/front/sides, but i might just use some of the old stuff i had earlier.

anyway, what do you guys think of my "1337" setup ;-P
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ChilliumBromide · Trick Member Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Location: Beaverton, OR

I think it's a sign that your tutorial will be Ã¼63r-1337.

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slvrshdw · Trick Member Joined: 05 Jan 2005

wow, a reply in 6 mins tofu...that gotta be a record

to your comment, and i might as well mention that i realized i didnt take as many pics as i would have liked to on building the bar/finishing it up..but its nothing big..

i just might have to get more pics later (like when i make the second pad for doubles)

oh ya, so hows your pad coming along tofu

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ChilliumBromide · Trick Member Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Location: Beaverton, OR

Decently, but my grandparents put a bunch of crap on top of some of the wood I've been using, so I've got to move all that before I can finish 'em. I finally tested how sturdy the 1/2" Fir Baseboard feels, and it's amazingly sturdy compared to my tx1000, even without any metal support. I'm going to work on sanding the edges and wiring it up, and then I'll just sit around, twiddling my thumbs and waiting for my sheet steel to get here. (unless I actually go to Home Depot and get some from the store)
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Weston · Trick Member Joined: 17 Feb 2003 Location: Minnesota

Alright, the guide is completed and ready for upload, minus the Pad Performance section since I really haven't had a chance to try it out hardcore. I have links to DDRHomePad's and Matrix's sites in the special thanks section, so I hope you guys don't mind. I also have a page that links to other DDR home built pads, so if you want me to add you to the list, let me know and provide a link. Lastly, am I correct in assuming that Tweder provided the pink and blue arrow graphics on one of these pages? I have him listed in the thanks section.

Power Surge · Basic Member Joined: 02 Mar 2007

Quick question: when I build my next pad, I plan to have the wires from the controller pass through a Cat 5 cable, so where can I get those little outlet things that accept RJ-45 connectors?