My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)

[devout]

[penguinxtreme]

I have just run into a major issue. I have finished assembling the non-buttons, and now need to attach them to the base. The problem is that neither of the two types of 1/2" long screws I have lying around actually hold the thing together (I put them up through the bottom, as the screws I used to attach the sheet metal weren't long enough to grip the base). How can I attach the non-buttons to the base?

[devout]

Buy longer screws

I use 1" drywall screws since they are pretty good at countersinking themselves into soft woods. 1/4" plywood is probably pretty hard, so if you want flush screw heads you might need to countersink them for real.

If your pad is so thin that only 1/2" screws are short enough, you might try buying 1" drywall screws and cutting them down to 1/2" with a dremel (which of course requires you to own one of those too...) that way there wont be any taper and the threads will go all the way to the tip. Ive found this to be a useful technique for a few specialized applications in the past.

I suppose you could always glue them too... I think that would be plenty strong, but if you need them to be removable that wont work.

you might be able to compromise with some industrial strength velco... im not sure how sturdy that would feel... might give you a little squish when you step on them, but maybe not.... it's pretty thin to begin with. It is, however, pretty expensive.

[penguinxtreme]

Thanks for the idea. I will try the dremel idea (thank god(s) or lack thereof I own one). When you do that, do you dremel them down before or after putting them in?

[devout]

Before...though if you can remove the steel from your panels I guess you could just as easily screw the wood panel to the base, cut the screws down, and then put the sheet metal back on.

I hold the screw (very tightly) with a pair of pliers. The reinforced cutting wheels go through screws like butter. Everything gets very hot in the process, and if the part you cut off lands on your rug, it will likely melt the rug to it, so be aware. Hopefully you have an actual garage you can work in and you dont have to do everything in your apartment like me I probably dont need to mention that safety goggles are a must when using the cutting wheels, but i will anyway. (If you loosen your grip on the dremel for a second it will spin around the screw and shoot sparks at your face, which is kinda disturbing even with the goggles)

Oh, and obviuosly since you cut the tip off you'll have to pre-drill all your holes, which is probably a good idea anyway in plywood. I set up my pad with everything in position and elevate it on the edges of two kitchen chairs, then i lay on the floor between the chairs and drill all the holes and screw the screws in from below. (Hold the panels in place with somethign heavy so they dont move when you try to drill through them) Not the most elegant process, but I think its easier than trying to get all your panels in position with the pad upside down. If you own a lot of clamps maybe you can clamp everything in place and then just flip the whole mess over to drill it.

[penguinxtreme]

I kind of lost you, but I think I get the gist. I am 14, so I live with my parents (duh), and we have an unfinished basement (concret floor), so that shouldn't be a problem. I thought I would just use 3/4inch screws to secure the sheet metal, instead of the 1/2inch ones. Would it be a problem to just secure all the panels, and then just cut off the excess screw stickink out the bottom of the wood.

Also, an update, I went to a local glass store, and they will cut the 11"x11" squares for me, so I will have them within a day or two. It cost me $25 (same as I would have payed at home depot, and precut), so I guess my $60 budget is gonna be blown. I will have to dish out an extra five whole dollars

[devout]

Ahh ok, yeah thats a good idea, screwing it all in from the top and then cutting off the bottom. I was thinking of having screws going in from the bottom attaching the base to the panels and screws from the top attaching metal to panels, but your idea makes a lot more sense. I'm used to working with a lot thicker pads so i never thought to just use one screw to go through all 3.

That sounds like a pretty good deal on the acrylic... cutting that stuff is a pain. As for your budget... no ddr pad is complete if you dont spend way more than you thought you would I can easily approach $200 for a lighted pad. My latest design, which i made as cheaply as possible without sacrificing quality, still came out to around $60

[penguinxtreme]

[devout]

I've used colored and white lights in the past... if you're using the usual looking ddr arrows, you're probably better off with white so the lettering comes out white and the whole thing doesnt just looked washed out red or blue. I would only use color if you're doing something like riptides design where the panels are black and white to begin with, but they would light up in color.

If you broke a bunch of dremel wheels they probably werent the reinforced ones... those little stone things break like crazy, I dont even use them. You can buy fiberglass reinforced ones that are like 5 for $7 or 20 for $20.... i've gone through about 30, wearing them down til they're gone and i've only broken 1.

On a side safety note for anyone else who might try this: when you're using cutting disks its best to hold the dremel so you're not looking right down the edge of the disk, but hold it so you're looking at it from above or below. That way if it breaks and things fly outward, they wont be heading towards your eyes. (Also keeps the sparks out of the plane of your eyes)

[penguinxtreme]

Well, I'm done cutting, but if I do anymore cutting of screws, it will be with the reinforced cutters. I'm getting my plexi in a couple hours (when my mom can pick it up), but I am having problems with the sensor design. I have discovered that even 8-ply, those no-hunting signs are way to weak to support any weight at all (like my pinky pushes it down with no effort). Any suggestions for a slightly flexible, but hard enough to support weight material that is thin and cheap? I was thinking using CD case plastic, but how do I cut it without it cracking?

[Ghettobarney]

Were did you get cd cases that are 11"x11"? Just score it with a sharp blade, and then hold it over the edge of a table and snap it. Though if you're afraid of cracking it you might be using something that's not strong enough.

-O.J.A.
_________________

OMG I BEETS MACKS 300!

[ChilliumBromide]

[penguinxtreme]

[devout]

Any chance you could post some pics?

[penguinxtreme]

[nfok3]

Just putting this up in case any one is interested:

Cheap Arcade Sensors

They're selling for 14.95 each
Unfortunately there's a minimum order size of 100 sensors...

[penguinxtreme]

[ChilliumBromide]

[nfok3]

[Kalek]