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My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)
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slvrshdw
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5560. PostPosted: Sun Nov 26, 2006 7:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

gone for a few days and a few replies i see..

cleaning the sheet metal...id guess like a windex or something (never done it)

you can get the graphics made from kinkos (it says in the vids if i remember right)

best sensor design....hm.. i'd have to say its the matrix design with the mousepad... or riptides...they all work, just a matter of preference
(i like the matrix cause it seems to hold up the best and works nicely)



now for the update on my cabinet im building:
i made the side panels (finally), and re-secured the top panel thing, replaced my tv with a tempory monitor (waiting for the tv still), and i'm started on working on the top banner thing with the lighted plex top thingie
i'll get pics hopefully soon (gotta borrow some ones digicam)
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Honzo
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5561. PostPosted: Sun Nov 26, 2006 10:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hmm, ive heard alot about this "matrix" design, but i am still quite unsure what it is, can anyone refer me to a page or a brief explaination?
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MasterInuYasha
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5562. PostPosted: Sun Nov 26, 2006 10:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anthony of TGA wrote:
I just got mine working, It's using a bit of a thicker frame then most of the pads here. It also uses arcade arrows and sensors. Arrows: Channel Beat. Sensors: Betson.







And just for good measure:





BTW, thats Joel (THE MOLE). he sucks at life. E15.gif


Holy cow.. .Can you post up the specs on that? What type of wood you uses, and what the measurements are? I wanna make one single one. .and not a daul like yours
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ChilliumBromide
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5563. PostPosted: Mon Nov 27, 2006 5:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd say that's pine, bleached oak, or maple, but I could be wrong.
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Reaper_13_6
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5564. PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2006 5:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey, im new to the DDR Freak.... scene... i guess. and have yet to start building my own Metal pad, im planning on making stoli's and i have some questions if you don't mind biggrin.gif Sorry if they're repeats.... i got to about page 10 of the movie mirror complaints first thoug E10.gif

1. I'm going to dismantle a Ignition: Energy pad for this, is there a special way of going about removing the terminal or is it just "cut it from the pad." and could the USB/XBox/PS2 compatability cause me any problems?

2. What kind of paper did you use for your graphics. I live in Serbrooke, Quebec, no fancy printing place to go to nearby, will it turn out with like...photo paper?

3. How well does your pad play. o . 0 ? E10.gif

Thx

P.S, anyone designing homade Bars?
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dj_sammylvr03
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5565. PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2006 12:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Reaper_13_6 wrote:
Hey, im new to the DDR Freak.... scene... i guess. and have yet to start building my own Metal pad, im planning on making stoli's and i have some questions if you don't mind biggrin.gif Sorry if they're repeats.... i got to about page 10 of the movie mirror complaints first thoug E10.gif

1. I'm going to dismantle a Ignition: Energy pad for this, is there a special way of going about removing the terminal or is it just "cut it from the pad." and could the USB/XBox/PS2 compatability cause me any problems?

2. What kind of paper did you use for your graphics. I live in Serbrooke, Quebec, no fancy printing place to go to nearby, will it turn out with like...photo paper?

3. How well does your pad play. o . 0 ? E10.gif

Thx

P.S, anyone designing homade Bars?


1. To dismantle the Ignition, just use a regular screwdriver (yes, the screws look small, but a regular size Phillips screwdriver will do the trick) and unscrew it from the pad. It comes right off. The sensors are just "taped" onto the circuit board. You can just rip those off. Be sure to sandpaper the black off of the connections before you wire it, or the solder will not stick. I have not found the control box to cause me any problems. It works fine on both my PS2 and my PC.

2. I went to Kinko's and they reproduced the image. It was put on a thick shiny paper (not exactly photo paper)

3. The pad performs very nicely. I can now hold my combos out much better than I could with my ignitions. The pad works flawlessly E4.gif
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stoli
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5566. PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2006 8:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Reaper_13_6 wrote:

2. What kind of paper did you use for your graphics. I live in Serbrooke, Quebec, no fancy printing place to go to nearby, will it turn out with like...photo paper?


The important thing about the paper is thickness. I do not recommend using regular paper.

Photo paper should work fine as long as it is big enough. I wanted a full 11"x11" graphic so I had to go to Kinkos. For my first 2 pads, I used the thick glossy paper - I think they called it "glossy poster stock" or something like that. For the second 2 pads, they didn't have the thick paper so I had to settle for regular paper. The problem with using regular paper is that eventually it will get "wavy" and buckle due to moisture and won't look as good. The thick stock has been holding up nicely.

-Stoli
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ChilliumBromide
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5567. PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2006 9:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's a huge Zerox (Xerox. . . some printing company) facility in Wilsonville, just outside of Portland, and I'm wanting to say it's the HQ ('cause there are a lot of big companies based in the Western Portland Metro Area), but I might be wrong. Anyway, I'm figuring that I might just check there if I can't find a Kinko's.
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MasterInuYasha
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5568. PostPosted: Wed Nov 29, 2006 1:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, I have some questions:

I am going to use Anthony of TGA's Design, The thicker frame and all, I am going make my own arrows. Questions:

1. What thickness of Lexen/plexi should I use? I want the "close to arcade" arrow thickness. So, that's what, 1/2''?

2.Sensors: I was going to make my own, I was going to put a positive and negative, The Negative being the whole bottom of the arrow


And to Keep the arrow from sitting directly on the sensors, I was going to do this:

Use these springs:





And these to dampen the contact between the arrow and the sensor

[img] http://inventgeek.com/Projects/dancepad1/Images/11.JPG[/img]


And do this to the Lexen/plexi glass for "rebound"





And do this to the soft-pad to make the connection:




Okay. So that's what I am going to do, Since I can't afford to buy the replacement arcade arrows, and Sensors.

Am I doing it right? OR wrong? ADVICE PLEASE! O_o
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dalcor
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5569. PostPosted: Wed Nov 29, 2006 3:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I talked to slvrshdw about this. But he didn't have a definite answer.

I weigh 275lb... will these metal pads support it, if not what can I modify to change that? Any ideas? thanx ^^
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geckoinc99
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5570. PostPosted: Wed Nov 29, 2006 4:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dalcor,
Are you asking if these pads in general can hold that weight? The answer is "Yes" depending on how you build it. I built mine similar to Riptide's design and they have held up to almost 400 lbs. Basically, here's the breakdown of the layers:

0.093" plexi
Graphic
0.22" plexi
sheetmetal contact

(end of arrow panel)

2" Mending strip on washers
3/4" plywood base

Also, there is a raised platform that is level with the mending strips in the middle. It's purpose is to keep the plexiglass from bending (which is the main cause of plexiglass failure). As long as it is level with the mending strips and not taller, it will not interfere with gameplay. I just bought some wooden dowel and cut it to the height I needed. I used a 1", but I think wider would be better, maybe at least 2". You really could use any type of wood as long as it's easy to cut to height. By adding that middle support, you will be able to hold lots of weight.

If you don't want to do Riptide's design, then you can go with the DDRHomepad design or Stoli design, basically any of the ones that the plexi sits on a flat surface. Again, the idea is no bending. If you have other questions, let the group know.

David
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slvrshdw
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5571. PostPosted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 7:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

@MasterInuYasha,
i think that would work, just try it out and see. i know someone else use(d) springs before, but i cant remember how it worked out


good news on my cabinet!
i had my friend work on the banner and printed it out on normal paper. then i put a light behind it and WHOA, it looks amazing, i'll get pics tomm
i will also get pics of the *small* progress i have on it.
i'm focusing on the banner thing right now, then i'm going to work on the speakers, then the TV E1.gif
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MasterInuYasha
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5572. PostPosted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 11:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

slvrshdw wrote:
@MasterInuYasha,
i think that would work, just try it out and see. i know someone else use(d) springs before, but i cant remember how it worked out



Gah. I need input on this ASAP, because I am going to start construction reall y soon, and since I can't afford Arcade sensors like he used in his design, as well as arcade replacement arrows, i will be making it all on my own. and just printing out some arrows and placing them on the lexan i use.
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MasterInuYasha
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5573. PostPosted: Sat Dec 02, 2006 1:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So anyone else have any input?


My main question is, Sensors and getting the arrow to rebound (not stick on the arrow) since I can't afford arcade replacement arrows, and replacement sensors, I have to make my own.
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EnigmaFX
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5574. PostPosted: Sat Dec 02, 2006 3:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Reaper_13_6 wrote:
Hey, im new to the DDR Freak.... scene... i guess. and have yet to start building my own Metal pad, im planning on making stoli's and i have some questions if you don't mind biggrin.gif Sorry if they're repeats.... i got to about page 10 of the movie mirror complaints first thoug E10.gif

1. I'm going to dismantle a Ignition: Energy pad for this, is there a special way of going about removing the terminal or is it just "cut it from the pad." and could the USB/XBox/PS2 compatability cause me any problems?

2. What kind of paper did you use for your graphics. I live in Serbrooke, Quebec, no fancy printing place to go to nearby, will it turn out with like...photo paper?

3. How well does your pad play. o . 0 ? E10.gif

Thx

P.S, anyone designing homade Bars?


Ouin moi jte conseil bureau en gros parce kinkos jpnse ki son pas au canada E10.gif

Jai verifier mais jai pas trouver et ummmm ouin cest pas mal sa E10.gif
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Honzo
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5575. PostPosted: Sun Dec 03, 2006 10:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Reaper_13_6 wrote:
Hey, im new to the DDR Freak.... scene... i guess. and have yet to start building my own Metal pad, im planning on making stoli's and i have some questions if you don't mind biggrin.gif Sorry if they're repeats.... i got to about page 10 of the movie mirror complaints first thoug E10.gif

1. I'm going to dismantle a Ignition: Energy pad for this, is there a special way of going about removing the terminal or is it just "cut it from the pad." and could the USB/XBox/PS2 compatability cause me any problems?

2. What kind of paper did you use for your graphics. I live in Serbrooke, Quebec, no fancy printing place to go to nearby, will it turn out with like...photo paper?

3. How well does your pad play. o . 0 ? E10.gif

Thx

P.S, anyone designing homade Bars?

For #1 insted of sanding, since it's a graphite layer (the black layer), it takes more time, but you remain with a smooth copper contact if you use a pencil eraser.
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slvrshdw
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5576. PostPosted: Mon Dec 04, 2006 5:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok, i have a few pics for now; ill get more later when i work on it more E1.gif
the monitor is just tempory (im going to get a TV soon E1.gif)

sorry for the big pic size frown.gif




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Donkey Kong
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5577. PostPosted: Sun Dec 10, 2006 5:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

how would you get your pad to have lights and light up? is there a guide or something for this?
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ChilliumBromide
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5578. PostPosted: Wed Dec 13, 2006 7:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's a few ways to get arrows to light up when you hit 'em, but the easiest is to rewire the panels with parallel light circuits and sensor circuits, so that they light up when you hit them. . . 99.9% of the time.
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Donkey Kong
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5579. PostPosted: Thu Dec 14, 2006 3:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks, i found patsters guide for it too.

Last edited by Donkey Kong on Mon Dec 18, 2006 4:41 pm, edited 1 time in total
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