My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)

dj_sammylvr03 · Trick Member Joined: 20 Jun 2004 Location: Connecticut, US

Well, last weekend I finished building Stoli's Home Dance Pad (link on first post of thread) and it works and looks terrific! I did make one minor tweak though: instead of using mirror finish galvanized stainless steel for the boarders, I used regular 26 gauge steel in a roll from Home Depot. It doesn't look as shiny, but it is much easier to bend. I also didn't glue down the boarders. I just nailed them down. Since I ripped apart my Ignition a month ago, I used the control box off of that. The only hard part was finding where to solder the wires. It is fairly easy to test though. Just start up a game on the PS2/Xbox/whatever and try different wires to different areas. Overall, I love it, except for the fact that it weighs 52 pounds, so Its hard to bring up and down the stars to my room (StepMania computer) and the family room (PS2 and Stereo) The pad just needs a wipe down.

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traydemark03 · Trick Member Joined: 22 Oct 2006

Beautiful

Weston · Trick Member Joined: 17 Feb 2003 Location: Minnesota

Agreed. Very nice!

stoli · Trick Member Joined: 27 Mar 2005 Location: Southern NH

Nice job!

Last time I checked, the mirror finish sheet metal had tripled in price and was very difficult to find. If you care about the finish, it is possible to buff up the galvy with a #0000 steel wool to give it a nicer looking finish. Then you can make it even shinier with some Simichrome polish. Lots of work, but an economical way to get a nice shine out of the galvy. Sorry, but can't do much about the weight. Just be thankful you didn't make the Riptide style out of 2x4s ... Try lugging one of those up and down the stairs.

-Stoli
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dj_sammylvr03 · Trick Member Joined: 20 Jun 2004 Location: Connecticut, US

Ravenwing · Trick Member Joined: 22 Jun 2003 Location: Leavenworth, KS

dj_sammylvr03: The pad looks good! I'm about to start construction on my 2nd metal pad, and my brother seems to have made away with my spare Retro Gamepad I got last year, so I'm gonna do the same as you and use a salvaged control box from an ignition pad. Do you remember which solder points go to which arrow? No big deal, since I figured it's pretty easy to test, it'd just save me a bit of work on my busy thanksgiving weekend!

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dj_sammylvr03 · Trick Member Joined: 20 Jun 2004 Location: Connecticut, US

Travelsonic · Trick Member Joined: 08 Oct 2005

Just a general question, but which pad design, of all the metal pad design plans out there, is the most arcade-like in design?
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dj_sammylvr03 · Trick Member Joined: 20 Jun 2004 Location: Connecticut, US

The Wise Fool · Posted: Fri Nov 24, 2006 12:19 pm Post subject:

ChilliumBromide · Trick Member Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Location: Beaverton, OR

Well, it depends what qualities you're looking for.

If you're looking for arcade-like feel, it should be at least 300 pounds, have obscenely large screws and brackets, and the sensors should be Arcade sensors from either MMB or Betson. Your best bet is a modified DDR Homepad design.

If you're looking for an arcade look, then really just build any of the pads to arcade specs, it's that easy.

If you want arcade durability, get 350 pounds of steel, some copper-plate metal-on-metal sensors, a couple 1 1/2" bars, and thick lexan for the panels, then toss it all together, and it'll last longer than you will.
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Travelsonic · Trick Member Joined: 08 Oct 2005

Since I am going for a home pad that matches a 1p version of the arcade pad as closely as possible in terms of look, and I really like the layout of the sensors/lighting in an arcade pad, I realized that the design would requre quite a bit of modding, so I decided to try my hand (with my dad's help, given how he has the tools, craftsmanship, and the industrial arts teaching skills I need) at my own design. I was wondering though if this form of the metal/foil contact system (based off of (though soldered better than) the MyMyBox SOLOMODE 2200) would work in terms of actually functioning?

Diagram based off my sketching of foam pad wiring/chip:

This is rough, not to scale, and messy so I'll explan it as best I can.

Basically, you got your wire for the arrow, and the common wiring. What I am attempting to convey with my diagram is connecting both to a peremeter of sheet metal replicating the arcade pad, which has 4 sensors around the peremeter. The washers (represented by crappy circles) provide support for the two-screw brackets, and the dark dark yellow crap in the diagram represents foam, providing a slight raising of the arrow so it doesn't make contact, but is soft enough to sink in enough to make contact. My doubt is whether or not the wiring would work in this peremeter-like fasion.

Before you ask, the center is going to be a well, like in the arcade, allowing forl ighting to be implemented in an arcade-like fasion. Havn't modified the above diagram to make way for this though. :-(
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ChilliumBromide · Trick Member Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Location: Beaverton, OR

Can't see the diagram.
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Travelsonic · Trick Member Joined: 08 Oct 2005

ChilliumBromide · Trick Member Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Location: Beaverton, OR

firezion · Basic Member Joined: 24 Oct 2006

Brief update on my double padÂ´s building.

I now have everything I need, exept: MMB sensors, wich I already payed 10 days ago. It seems, they still havenÂ´t sent them. IÂ´ll get 18 sensors, (2 spare) and some stuff.

Today I bought a huge plywood. The stationary panels are already done from filmplywood.

PadÂ´s will be at least 43mm thick.

I will have to support the Lexan from the middle somehow, for itÂ´s not stiff enough. Not even near. Also, IÂ´ll just have (at least planned to use) 12 UV LedÂ´s per panel, on the edges. Im also purchasing "new" comp to run the stuff, and already planned how to do a cabin wich could also be used as comp table/ stuff. Im just so stuffed about this project. It costs so much that I canÂ´t believe it, and Im almost near a breakdown. But. Seeing it come together, keeps me up. And I believe, itÂ´ll be great, when itÂ´s ready. Or if it isnÂ´t, IÂ´ll chop it to million pieces, burn it, bury it and piss on it.

ChilliumBromide · Trick Member Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Location: Beaverton, OR

firezion · Basic Member Joined: 24 Oct 2006

ChilliumBromide · Trick Member Joined: 16 Jun 2006 Location: Beaverton, OR

I'm not sure I fully comprehended all that (just played Laser Tag for 3 hours), but yeah, sounds good to me. xD
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Honzo · Basic Member Joined: 02 Nov 2006 Location: FLA, USA

i have a few questions that may have been answered previously, but i've searched and come up dry.
1. What is the best method for cleaning the sheet steel and shining it up? (brackets too as they seem to like to oxydize quickly).
2. Riptide, where did you get (or have made) those stick on graphics?
3. What is the best sensor design (2 sheets of sheet metal, 2 screws bridged by sheet metal as in Riptide's design, etc.)
...
if i think of any more, i'll post them, thanks!