My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)

slvrshdw · Trick Member Joined: 05 Jan 2005

well, once u get DDR graphics ill love it

other than the arrow graphics its really good

im getting ready to redo my sensors....yet AGAIN..my 5th time actually (just cause one way worked but didnt like it that much, then 4 other ways that didnt work

)

ill get pics of when im done
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thelegendofnevets · Basic Member Joined: 14 Apr 2006

i do have ddr arrow graphics but they just arent in right now

Ulala321 · Trick Member Joined: 28 Sep 2004

Two quetsions:

I'm building my 2nd pad using Stoli's design, and my first isn't quite as sensative as I'd like it to be. I have youngins using it that don't weigh as much, and my girlfriend only weighs in at about 100 lbs so she finds she has to stomp a lil to get a response. Any suggestions to increase sensativity?

Second, when I set the pad down on certain surfaces (towers on a hardwood floor, certain carpets) it freaks out as if random buttons were being pushed on the controller. The only way I can get it to stop is by raising it off the surface with 2x4s or chairs or something. Any thoughts?

Thanks guys.

stoli · Trick Member Joined: 27 Mar 2005 Location: Southern NH

VoijaRisa · Trick Member Joined: 10 Dec 2005 Location: Lawrence KS

One of the modifications I made to my version of Stoli's design is that I placed a small flat headed screw in each corner of the bottom plate as well as one in the center. By tightening them or losening them, I can adjust the sensitivity. This works well and makes it pretty easy to make sure that no corners have dead spots when I step on them.

Jaufwa · Posted: Fri Apr 21, 2006 12:45 pm Post subject:

Forgive me, these questions will seem really stupid to people that have already built a pad, but please understand that I haven't built one, and there are parts that are still confusing me:

1. How do the sheet metal contacts touch if there is weatherstripping and foam seperating them? Surely no matter how thinly the foam compresses, there is still SOMETHING there seperating the contacts? After all, the foam+weatherstripping can't compress to zero length!

2. If you screw in the screws into the pegboard so that they are flush with the pegboard, then surely the screw head is in the hole of the pegboard? Thereby not actully touching the pegboard at all, if you get me? The pegboard wouldn't be fixed at all surely?

Obviously I understand that the pad does work, so I am missing something gapingly obvious. Can someone please give me a slap of knowledge to the face?

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My home built pad: (DDRHomepad... thank you so much.)

HitokiriX · Trick Member Joined: 27 Mar 2004 Location: Berwyn, PA

Well if you think of it that way Jaufwa, then the contacts have some thickness too don't they? So even though the weatherstripping isn't completely pressed down, the thickness of the contacts allows them to still touch each other. You don't need to totally compress the weatherstripping to get the contacts touching.

You'll have to ask someone who's built DDRHomePad's design on the second question, sorry.

Ryyudo -YHB- · Posted: Sun Apr 23, 2006 5:07 pm Post subject:

Working on the pad right now, trying to cut out the Acrylic. What did you all do to cut that out, we're having a lot of troulbe with it outselves.
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Need an attorney? Call Ryyudo, the Iron Foot. I step on arrows, and I'm not afraid to step on judges.
"Ryyudo Shinomoni: Stepping on arrows since '03, and stepping on judges since '98"

VoijaRisa · Trick Member Joined: 10 Dec 2005 Location: Lawrence KS

I learned a lesson today. The lesson is:

If you're screwing in a border, make sure you don't put the screws right through your wires.

I made this mistake today, and now must rewire my entire pad.

vicman617 · Basic Member Joined: 26 Jul 2005

geckoinc99 · Trick Member Joined: 11 Feb 2005 Location: Chattanooga, TN

The way I cut it was with a table saw. if you have one handy, then all you need is a saw blade with carbide teeth, about 36 tooth count, and just feed at a steady rate. I always get a nice even cut, no splitting. Just wear goggles and protect your arms and hands. I've done two pads, cutting both 0.093 in and 0.22 in plexiglass, and have yet to have one piece get screwed up by this method. Good luck!

David
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Life is very different 3000 feet above the earth with only a wing to hold you up....
Can't wait to be there again. Wanna join me? Visit http://www.hanglide.com

MinN_Limited · Posted: Mon Apr 24, 2006 6:29 pm Post subject:

Jaufwa · Posted: Tue Apr 25, 2006 4:26 am Post subject:

IT BENDS!! *slaps head* Thankyou so much! That mystery is over!

And I think I understand (2) as well, are you saying that the screw heads, being slightly bigger than the holes, will sort of "jam" into the holes? Thereby allowing it to fix while STILL being flush with the board?

Cheers

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My home built pad: (DDRHomepad... thank you so much.)

Ryyudo -YHB- · Posted: Tue Apr 25, 2006 10:28 am Post subject:

Thanks for help on the Acrylic, that poopy was weaksauce. But we used a handsaw and angels sung out. Good thing too, because if we had to take another trip to Home Depot and buy ANOTHER Acrylic board...

Either way, just wondering if anyone has a link to ITG Arrow graphics. I know I should try searching on the fourm, but I'm a little short for time

. But if someone could hook me up, I love you long time.

_________________

Need an attorney? Call Ryyudo, the Iron Foot. I step on arrows, and I'm not afraid to step on judges.
"Ryyudo Shinomoni: Stepping on arrows since '03, and stepping on judges since '98"

VoijaRisa · Trick Member Joined: 10 Dec 2005 Location: Lawrence KS

My plexiglass (~.25") was also cut using a table saw with no problems.

Plautus · Trick Member Joined: 17 Oct 2002

Here are the Afterburner/ITG type arrows I made for my pads, and they look hot (pictures hopefully to follow):

http://plautus.kundor.org/ITGstylearrows/orange%20arrow%20smaller.png

http://plautus.kundor.org/ITGstylearrows/blue%20arrow%20smaller.png

Ryyudo -YHB- · Posted: Tue Apr 25, 2006 8:46 pm Post subject:

DARREN HAYEZ · Trick Member Joined: 13 Apr 2006 Location: Michigan

I don't have a metal pad, nor do I plan on making one. I've come here to ask if anyone has made a bar to use at home with a different mat, such as an Ignition, which is what I have.
I thought that maybe using metal plumbing pipes would work, and then somehow screwing the bar to a think piece of plywood or particleboard, then placing the pad on the wood in front of the bar. I would probably have to put some weight on the front of the board, like bricks or something. Does anyone else think that would work?

HitokiriX · Trick Member Joined: 27 Mar 2004 Location: Berwyn, PA

DARREN HAYEZ · Trick Member Joined: 13 Apr 2006 Location: Michigan