the TX-Series (mainly TX-4000 and TX-6000)

[Snouman]

Nope. You dont need to remove the plastick to make them register. But I recomend highly removing them right away. If you play without removing the plastick it might become harder to get it off later.

You weight only 85 pounds?!? You sure are feather XD. 55kilos is 121.25 pounds. I would say that if you are under 100 pounds it might cause some issues with registerin steps. If you need to get it more sensitive, just sheet metal mod it. I am not gonna sheet metal mod the pad because it is responsive enough for me. However if the foil burns out, I will do the sheet metal mod.

[kaosskratchet]

thx, and i know that i'm light...

i can only do up to 9 footers anyway, so the arcade makes me do even worse. i hope that arcade scores won't count for me at the arcade since i can't always make the arrows register.


*curses freeze arrows*
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[quote:bd08be2732="Schupo"]People with phDs are still stupid, just in a smaller percentage.[/quote]

[kaosskratchet]

sry for the double post, but i have a huge problem. i just got my tx 4000, only the site, ddrgame (something like that) called it the ion dance pad, the arrows aren't colored, and the arrows act like the x/o buttons instead of real arrows. the actual x/o buttons don't work, and the pad seems to be a total washout. if anyone has any advice on what i should do, let me know.

also, there is a warranty, so let me know what i should do.

EDIT: I am SLOW!!! if anyone ever has this problem, then check the input between the pad and the control box... i put it upside down, so it didn't connect the right way.

now for my first impressions and review:

The pad seems very sleek. The arrows register very well, even under my weight of 87 pounds. it even works for freezed arrows. the arrows do slide around, which isn't helped when tightening the screws. the input is increased if you tighten the screws, so if you weigh less, then this is a good idea.
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[quote:bd08be2732="Schupo"]People with phDs are still stupid, just in a smaller percentage.[/quote]

[jjang1993]

I got a TX-4000 today. its very sensitive. my only concerns are the start button is stuck when you first plug it in but if you take it out and plug it back in it'll be fine and it uses foil contacts
im hearing squeaking noises on my left panels and the X button is cracking noises (not to loud). is my pad fine?
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My Favorite DDR Song is So Deep.

[Snouman]

[kaosskratchet]

i agree with you about the sensitivity, and the arrows do seem to slide apart, but i got it from a very expensive site ($250).

my sister, of about 76 pounds can use it well enough too. i think that now that i have about $315 in christmas money, i should save up for a very nice cobalt flux, or a tx 6000


EDIT: the arrow problem can be solved, but not by tightening the screws. you simple need to use a flat screw driver to push them back to their original location. of course it doesn't seem to cause much harm, but if it did, then you should move them.
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[quote:bd08be2732="Schupo"]People with phDs are still stupid, just in a smaller percentage.[/quote]

[Marq(uistadorous)]

Im curious. Has the soldering and control box improved from the tx1000?
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[Malice913150]

[katiepie]

Well my TX-6000 finally arrived last week (ordered it in Dec and had the money taken out of my account 6 weeks ago but whatever!) from Lik-Sang and I thought I would let you guys know. I live in the UK and chose Lik-Sang over Play Asia because the total cost with shipping ended up slightly less.

Obviously I've only had it for a week so far but here are my impressions:

Good points:
Very sensitive, no problems with misses, freezing, triple arrows etc.
Really solid (tx6000 weighs about 25kg), couldn't move it even if I tried.
Seems to be really quiet but I dance in my slippers quite light-footed and it's on carpet too which helps.
Easy to put together (mine arrived without instructions, and despite being a girl I still managed it)
Looks AMAZING.


Bad points:
Requires me to jump more 'heavily' than is natural for me, but as someone else said you soon get used to it.
I've had a similar problem with the X button making a cracking noise as stated before.
I've also had an issue with removing the plastic coating as somebody else has said.
The bar does not seem strong, I wouldn't trust it with my full 'leaning power'. Fortunately I read these reviews first which has saved me breaking it already, thanks guys. If I treat it with care it should be ok.

[katiepie]

(Newbie question coming up) Can anyone tell me what to do with the redundant middle panel, and back left/right panels. They are white rather than metallic. Is the white meant to be removed? I hope so as one arrived scratched through so it looks bad.

All in all I love it, and it's cheap enough to get another once (and IF) it starts playing up. I think it's the best you are going to get for your money, especially in UK/Europe.

(had to post as 2 separate posts as I am at work and we are limitted how much we can upload at once)

[Marq(uistadorous)]

Im curious. Has the soldering and control box improved from the tx1000?
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[Snouman]

katiepie.
The three tiles you mentioned are actually covered with white plastick. The metal under the white plastick pieces is same color as other metal tiles. I recomend that you remove the white plastick coverings before you start dancing because it might be harder to remove them afterwards.

The control box is different from tx1000/2000 models. I havent heard of any dead control boxes yet. The soildering also seems fine. Though I know one user who had problems in pressing the left arrow when the right arrow was pressed down. But overall in overall, the control boxes and soildering job has been improved from the old models. I haven't had any problems eighter (well I have had it only for one month now). So far it seems wery good lasting and sensitive.

I knew that the support bar would brake easily. That is the reason why I choce tx4000.

[FocusHard]

since my last post around dec something, my pads are still doing great; heavy use between my daughter, me and my bro and friends ranging in weight; im about 160, my daughter is 60, we're both just getting into standard but she can stomp for a little kid when she gets excited but doesn't need to cuz they register fine with her weight; we play for an average of a couple hours each day and even though the plates shifted it hasn't caused any problems
i am so very very happy with these... thanks to everyone who posted before me!

[prator]

Does anyone have a good source for the TX-4000? Liksang wants $121 for shipping! And Play-Asia doesn't have them in stock right now.

[Marq(uistadorous)]

[Snarl]

I own two TX 6000 since 4 months, bought them on play-asia (shipped from germany to france). They then worked fine, and since I never played on any other metal pad, I could'nt tell if they are hard to validate, but my 75kg easily do the trick. The bars are useless to me, they seem really weak, and maybe I should have buy a TX4000.

But...after 50 hours of dancing (9-10 footers; not counting the time in the menus) 3 arrows on a pad suddenly stopped to work. And then comes the fun part : to disassemble a pad that is glued, soldered, and nailed. So I teared off the glue and sawed the solderings. Not to mention that the poor 3 mm thick wood under the pad suffered a lot. The problem came from the black wire (gnd) that goes through each sensor : it was broken between two sensors, because it was folded under one of the sensor, supporting the player's weight....So I doubled this "ground loop" with a thick copper wire, connecting each black wire to it. And then I re-assembled the pad, screwing plates of metal in the corners that were soldered before. It gives a kind of new look to the pad, a bit less shiny and a bit more screwn. The pad now re-works well.

Moralité : I recommend to check that the wires are not gripped by the sensors, or else you could spend some nights hammering your mat...with a hammer I mean. But I think this problem is uncommon on these pads, I'm just not lucky.

[Marq(uistadorous)]

I have a question. What part of the bar is bad? Are the holes the bar goes into too loose? Is the metal very weak and bendable? Or is it crappy welding?

[Marq(uistadorous)]

Someone please answer me, or else ill have to start a new thread
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[Snouman]

I think that the bar is everything you where describing. I recomend getting tx4000 instead of tx6000. You save also some money by doing so. Mine has worked well

[Marq(uistadorous)]

Yeah but it sounds like youve never used a tx6000.
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