I need good modding instructions for my crappy tx-1000

[Marq(uistadorous)]

I have a tx 1000. It works but I am not happy with it. Can someone give me some good instructions to mod the thing with good sensors. I also need to know how to make a cheap bar. thanx
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[jjang1993]

here are some tx1000 mod pages
- Sheet Metal Mod
http://www.rufus3.com/ddr/metalpadmod.html
-Lexan Panel, Solder, and Sensor Move Mods
http://www.ddrfreak.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=107037
-Copper Sheet Metal Mod(use the first link for sheet metal mod instead) and LED Light white box move(white box move isnt needed if you made lex panels)
http://www.ddrfreak.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=102167
-Lexan Panel Mod w/thick foam
http://home.1asphost.com/cyphergamesmod/

what i would do to mod you'd need
30 gauge galvanized sheet metal or aluminum foil tape
lexan
virginia foam insulation (not too thick)
duct tape
spray on adhesive
something to cut lexan and sheet metal

1.uncrew you panels

2.cut you lexan do they match the size and shape or the panel

3.print some decals for your panels (optional) and stick them on with the spray on adhesive

4.If you're foam insulation has a sticky bottom stick it onto the bottom of your panel. if it doesnt, use your spray on adhesive. cover most of the bottom of the panel with your foam

5. use duct tape and/or spray on adhesive to put the sheet metal on the bottom of your panel. if you're using foil tape just tape it onto the bottom of the panel

6. repeat steps 1-5 on order, 4 or 6 times depending on how many panels you wish to mod
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My Favorite DDR Song is So Deep.

[Marq(uistadorous)]

Thanx alot jjang1993!!

Now, what about a bar
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[ddjrico489]

I don't know if this is the price range you're looking for...but I built a pair thats REALLY solid that cost roughly $100.

I went to Home Depot and got..I believe 1 1/4" galvanized steel pipe...I built it over a year ago so I can't remember exactly, but you'll know when you go there which one is the right one. You'll need a few things, obviously...

-Enough pipe (look on channelbeat for the bar heights..Mine are about 38 1/2" high by 21.5" wide) The only reason it's not exact is because I didn't anticipate the joints adding .5 to 1 inch both ways
-4 "L" joints (2 per pad) to connect the horizontal bar to the vertical ones
-4 Bases for the vertical bars(2 per pad). Not sure what they're called. Basically they're like a light socket, except made out of galvanized steel, specifically for the pipes.
I also built a base out of a sheet of plywood, and surrounded the pads tightly with 1.5 inch wide plywood strips.

When you buy the pipes you will need them to be cut and threaded for the joints and holders...so make sure you have your dimensions wrtitten down. My guess would be 4- 36" bars and 2-20" bars.
This thing is a beast, I gotta say. Each bar weighs (by my estimation) at least 20 lbs, so the 2 of those plus 2 pads (I use a pair of tx-1000's), and the sheet of plywood...I wont even try to guess the weight but it doesnt move an inch. They can also handle me grabbing the top bar and doing a backflip around it, which would cause a lot of push-and-pull stress on it. Granted, I'm not a very big person..only about 130 lbs, but they do take a beating (I play the Max's at least once a set and the bars work well)

Just a few things about it...if you push one side and pull the other you can knock the bar crooked just by tightening one side and loosening the other, and they will wobble a little bit, but I may have a fix for that this weekend (going to try heavy-duty bolts to hold the holders down).

I'll add more as needed. Hope it works!

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[Marq(uistadorous)]

lol! I posted this like a year ago! I now have my homebuilt pad, so I don't need that stuff...
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[DarkCore]