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My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)
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EvadingTheFade
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4940. PostPosted: Wed Nov 09, 2005 5:52 pm    Post subject: newbie thanx. Reply with quote

*bows to ddrhomepad.* I plan on building a dance pad this week. I'm psyched! Thanx for all the links, and instructions.
~ETF
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ffdude1906
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4941. PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 2005 8:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok, question. do the ddr games for ps2 register the controller as not being a pad (i.e. in the records section, high scores have a pad icon if you used a pad, and there isnt an icon if you used a controller), because if they do, i'm gonna want to disect a pad instead so that my scores show up with the pad.

it does it on ddrmm, but i dont know about the ps2 versions. also, answers to my previous questions would be good too E10.gif
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HitokiriX
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4942. PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 2005 1:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

if you use a ps2 controller for the control board, then it will show itself as a regular controller in the game. If you use a control board from a softpad, then it will show itself as a DDR pad in the game. Your choice.
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Punkly Daft
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4943. PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 2005 3:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have two questions about the arrow graphics

1. Should I have Kinkos print out the graphic on copy paper, photo paper, or cardstock?

2. Should I glue the graphic to the piece of lucite below it?
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Aflac
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4944. PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 2005 6:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Punkly Daft wrote:
I have two questions about the arrow graphics

1. Should I have Kinkos print out the graphic on copy paper, photo paper, or cardstock?

2. Should I glue the graphic to the piece of lucite below it?


1. whatever's cheapest. copy paper probably. you don't need high quality paper because the paper won't be touched, and the plexiglass/acrylic above the graphic will take care of the finish.

2. no, unless you really want to. the graphic can be suspended between the two pieces of lucite without consequences.
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geckoinc99
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4945. PostPosted: Fri Nov 11, 2005 4:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

By not gluing the graphic down, you will be left with the option to replace it if something happens to it or you get tired of it and want something different. Paper choice really doesn't matter, however, I recommend getting it printed at Staples or OfficeDepot. Kinkos tends to overcharge for prints sometimes. It should only cost about $2 or less per print.
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phoenix9
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4946. PostPosted: Fri Nov 11, 2005 4:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

slvrshdw wrote:
omg, thanks for that link

and id like the plans too (though i dont know any french, so the dimentions would be great) E4.gif
and any idea on the cost? thought i have alot of stuff already :-D

im gonna re-design my own version if i have to since ive got a spare (sorta) 27" TV E7.gif and an extra comp that i could try...and all i really need is the cabinent made, the video card with svideo out, and prolly the USB converter, but thats for later

ill make sure to get some good pics when i get it started...

//edit
i finished re doing my broken in half left arrow panel, and putting a center support on all 4 arrows
i just played for about 40 mins, and yay, its working great, especially after my month or so without ANY ddr!!!


Plans: http://rapidshare.de/files/7506593/Plans.rar.html

on dimensions keep in mind that po is the french abbreviation for "inch"

No idea on the cost i was gonna do this, but now my plans are kinda falling through and i never got around to figuring out the full price
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Punkly Daft
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4947. PostPosted: Fri Nov 11, 2005 8:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aflac wrote:
Punkly Daft wrote:
I have two questions about the arrow graphics

1. Should I have Kinkos print out the graphic on copy paper, photo paper, or cardstock?

2. Should I glue the graphic to the piece of lucite below it?


1. whatever's cheapest. copy paper probably. you don't need high quality paper because the paper won't be touched, and the plexiglass/acrylic above the graphic will take care of the finish.

2. no, unless you really want to. the graphic can be suspended between the two pieces of lucite without consequences.


Thanks - now if only Home Depot would get some freaking braces in stock so I could finish the frame! ugh....

HD is the pits, man....I wish Lowes would carry them... E2.gif
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stupidbarber
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4948. PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2005 7:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Punkly Daft wrote:
I have two questions about the arrow graphics

1. Should I have Kinkos print out the graphic on copy paper, photo paper, or cardstock?

2. Should I glue the graphic to the piece of lucite below it?


Unlike others, I have had bad results when the graphic is just loose between two sheets of lexan. After many weeks, the graphics started to slide out and get chewed up by the edges. It worked better for me if I just put one or two small pieces of double sided tape between bottom lexan and graphic to keep it from sliding.
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slvrshdw
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4949. PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2005 5:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

im downloading the plans now, thanks E1.gif

and about the graphic, i just used tape in the 4 corners to hold it down
double sided tape should work nicely too


and i just got back from getting a pretty good 5.1 ch surround sound speakers for only $40!

ill keep people informed how the cabinet turns out, and ill try to get alot of pics for people E7.gif
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kingofsmut95
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4950. PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 4:21 pm    Post subject: DDR home pad FAQ Reply with quote

Hello, I am new to this forum but I am not new to gaming.

I have read up to page 205 of this thread where someone proposed
that there should be a compiled FAQ sheet or something
to help reduce the number of repetitious questions being asked over and over againg.

I know I only have 40+ more pages left to read, but I sense no one has stepped up to do such a FAQ?

Well, since I am doing my research before I build my pad, I volunteer to compile the information from this thread into a FAQ.
I also have my own web page for hosting the files, and the pictures so that they won't disappear when the free trial, or service provider changes or what ever.

Writing FAQs is not a new thing for me. I have written detailed FAQs from forums for the Xbox game Dead Or Alive Beach Volleyball, and Magic The Gathering for the Dream Cast.
For DIY FAQs, I have an FAQ on how to build your own Drummania set of drums, and I wrote an FAQ on how to disassemble and reassemble my arcade "Para Para Paradise" dance machine. My FAQ page is below:

[url]

http://www.anikionline.com/FAQs/index.html

[/url][/url]
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slvrshdw
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4951. PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 6:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cool!!

id help a bit if u need anything biggrin.gif

i looked at the plans, and i like them (im planning on getting the wood this weekend)

now for a question--

anyone use weatherstripping and have it loose its responsiveness?
what about that tubing? is it any better?
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amhso
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4952. PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 6:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i wish there was a truely cheap solution to a good pad. The homemade metal pads cost between 80-120 dollars. Then buying a good pad costs atleast 60 dollars...so I can't get any. I'm stuck with my soft pad, which is cheaply glued to an office mat to cheaply stop the sliding.
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Aflac
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4953. PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2005 8:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

amhso wrote:
i wish there was a truely cheap solution to a good pad. The homemade metal pads cost between 80-120 dollars. Then buying a good pad costs atleast 60 dollars...so I can't get any. I'm stuck with my soft pad, which is cheaply glued to an office mat to cheaply stop the sliding.


the best solution if you're money-strapped is to do the rychan mod (do some digging on ddrfreak, you'll find it). basically you duct/packing tape the pad to a piece of plywood and cover it with thick plastic. this stops sliding and lengthens the life of your pad (several months, for me, as opposed to several weeks).
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geckoinc99
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4954. PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2005 8:46 pm    Post subject: Soft Pad Modding Reply with quote

The instructions for doing the soft pad mod (which is to place the pad on plywood then wrap it with hardwood floor covering) can be found in the Tips section on the DDR Freak home page. Here's the link:
http://www.ddrfreak.com/library/contributor-article.php?postID=7890244
This is a good way to improve your pad's performance till you can afford a better pad. Also, if you want, you can tape an extra piece of the plastic covering over the arrow areas so that you can tell where the arrows are by feel and not have to look. Just a thought.

David
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slvrshdw
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4955. PostPosted: Sun Nov 20, 2005 8:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok guys,

well i got part of the wood for the cabinet so far E1.gif
its just 2x4s for now, but im going to get some paneling or plywood to cover it later

btw, the blue light is from my xbox...and thats homer on teh TV if u cant tell biggrin.gif
(its a link)



it has...
my TV on top
a VCR so i can use it as a normal TV (the antenna jack broke off it)
my xbox in it
the 5.1 ch surround sound speakers mounted (poorly for now laugh.gif)


i still have a long way to go, but i thought an update would be nice for anyone who wants to see it E13.gif
plus this is good just for using it as a stand and good sound biggrin.gif
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jjang1993
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4956. PostPosted: Fri Nov 25, 2005 10:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

alright im gonna built my metal dance pad so my brother and sister and play too once i get my tx4000. heres the plan
-im gonna use a PSX controller
Can someone PM me a picture of the soldering points of up, left, down, right, and ground? if soldering a PSX controller is nearly impossible or very hard, which controller will work thats no over 20 bux thats easy to solder? Also can someone PM me instructions how to solder a controller? the sites i read are kinda confusing.
-instead of using 5 wooden squares and the brackets im going to use a single 33inchx33inchx3/4 inch piece of particle board and use thin 11 inchx1nchx3/4 inch pieces of wood (the square shaped spot will be empty) to make the squares where the blocks with sheet metal will go. i will also use 4 11x11x1/4 wood squares to put where the arrows will be and just put 11x11x3/4 inch wood squares in the corners and center with sheet metal hammered in on the top . i wont use a peg board but cut "trenches in the corners and maybe the center so the wires can go through to the sheet metal(i might use duct tape to reinforce the wires in the "trenches")
Anyone know if this plan will work?
-i will use polycarbonate or lexan plastic(11x11x1/4 inch squares) with sheet metal contacts for the panels. there will be 1/4 thick dense foam on the sheet metal on the BASE on the perimeter of the sheet metal, not the panels so the two pieces of sheet metal wont be making direct contact.
Will this be successful?
-the sheet metal on the bottom and top will be put on with spray on adhesive.
-wires from the controller will be soldered onto the sheet metal pieces

QUESTIONS (theres some ?s in the my plan above)
-do u have to connect wires from the controller to the sheet metal on the lexan/polycarbonate panels?
-should i use CAT5 wire for the wiring?
-what does weatherstripping material do? is it mandatory?
-how do u solder a PSX controller? if its too hard to solder a PSX one which controller will be easy to solder thats under 20 bux? can someone PM me on how to solder a controller?(this question is found on the plan above.
-is it mandatory to keep the panels screwed/drilled in? couldnt you just keep them there? it wouldnt be able to come out, right?



EDIT: would it be easier to buy a cheap 70 dollar TX-1000 off ebay and mod it a lot? Mods i would do are
-sheet metal mod
-put duct tape on exposed wires, including the wires connecting to the LED lights on the panels to protect them from being cut
-maybe make lexan panels
what would be better to do?
A-mod a 70 dollar tx1000
B-built a dance pad
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HitokiriX
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4957. PostPosted: Sat Nov 26, 2005 2:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jjang1993 wrote:
QUESTIONS (theres some ?s in the my plan above)
1. -do u have to connect wires from the controller to the sheet metal on the lexan/polycarbonate panels?
2. -should i use CAT5 wire for the wiring?
3. -what does weatherstripping material do? is it mandatory?
4. -how do u solder a PSX controller? if its too hard to solder a PSX one which controller will be easy to solder thats under 20 bux? can someone PM me on how to solder a controller?(this question is found on the plan above.
5. -is it mandatory to keep the panels screwed/drilled in? couldnt you just keep them there? it wouldnt be able to come out, right?


EDIT: would it be easier to buy a cheap 70 dollar TX-1000 off ebay and mod it a lot? Mods i would do are
-sheet metal mod
-put duct tape on exposed wires, including the wires connecting to the LED lights on the panels to protect them from being cut
-maybe make lexan panels
what would be better to do?
A-mod a 70 dollar tx1000
B-built a dance pad


1. You have to connect a wire to both the metal contact on the panel and on the base. One is the ground wire and the other is the signal wire that tells which button is being pressed.
2. CAT5 wire...telephone wire....most any kind works.
3. Weatherstripping is required, unless you switch it with silicon tubing or some other memory material. The weatherstripping suspends the contacts attached to the arrow panel from touching the contact attached to the base. If they were constantly touching the game would assume that the arrow is just permanently pressed. With the weatherstripping keeping the contacts apart, you can decide when you want the contacts touching with a downward force (AKA your feet ^__^).
4. I don't have the site, sorry. You'll have to ask someone else. I think someone here has the link in their siggy. I would really recommend spending the money on a softpad and taking the control board from it though. It's a lot more static resistant and is much easier to solder.
5. Technically it could come out because nothing is keeping it from doing so. If you don't want to feel the screws you can use the corner brackets design like the arcade pads have it. I think it looks better and feels better anyway.


Ok just for the record it is very hard to move the LED lights from the manufactured arrow panels to your homemade lexan panels. From past knowledge with manufactured pads, I'm pretty sure the TX1000 LED lights will be covered by a soft foam sheet that's hard to remove. Then the wires powering the LED's go through tunnels INSIDE the base of the pad to the control board. Very hard to remove the LED light wires, and near impossible to thread new wires back through the internal wire tunnels and back to the control board. I would not recommend trying this.

In the end building your own is the better choice in my opinion. Homemade pads cost around $140 bucks while TX1000's cost $70 plus a mandatory $40 shipping charge, making it actually $110. $30 bucks difference plus a little extra effort in building, and in return your homemade pad will most likely outlive the TX1000 by a lot and can be fixed at any time in the slight chance that it breaks down.
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mindless2
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4958. PostPosted: Sat Nov 26, 2005 11:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm just making sure this is correct: :Lexan is hard to crack, right? So it would be best for this project. And also, any estimates on how much it costs?
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HitokiriX
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4959. PostPosted: Sun Nov 27, 2005 4:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Correct....but it's not really important. As long as you buy any acrylic material you'll be ok. Lexan is most expensive and probably not worth it for this kind of project. I mean it's almost bulletproof! (or so I'm told) What the hell could you be doing to your pad that could bring about a need for material as strong as that?!

The price varies depending on where you go. More expensive at home depot and lowe's, cheaper at hobby shops and fabric stores. Of course it's harder to find lexan at hobby shops and fabric stores, but if you can buy from them. Sorry but I can't give you an exact price though.
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