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My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)
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Quad
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4880. PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2005 6:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So does anyone know of the Beat -Gears blueprint or one that is similar to that?
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deM'
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4881. PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2005 6:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Beat-Gears arent exactly homemakable...

If you know the story behind them, it was a guy who had access to all kinds of machining and injectin molding tools. If you get a look inside of one of those, you would see that its a custom designed sensor (not like arcade or any of the homebuilts) and mostly made out of hard plastic.
The backbar and doubles isnt a mod, thats how the pads are =)
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Quad
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4882. PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2005 7:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah ok I understand now. So which pad would be the closest design to a beat gear in the sense:

a)sunken arrows
b)metal border
c)senors
d)backbar blueprint

... if that makes sense. Im new to all this, and just need to know where I stand to see if this is something I want to start.
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Heffenfeffer
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4883. PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2005 6:24 am    Post subject: Pick and choose your battles Reply with quote

Quad wrote:
Ah ok I understand now. So which pad would be the closest design to a beat gear in the sense:

a)sunken arrows
b)metal border
c)senors
d)backbar blueprint

... if that makes sense. Im new to all this, and just need to know where I stand to see if this is something I want to start.


Well, there are several avenues you can take here. I've made a riptide pad myself, and will probably make another one with some modifications if the urge to do doubles strikes (erm, and I get some cash.)

But anyhoo - just about every homebuilt pad has arcade-style sunken arrows. It's fairly easy to do - all you need to do is tighten a few screws to move the plexiglass down, even without corner brackets.

For the metal border, I'd recommend looking over Stoli's pad how-to. This is something I wish I'd thought to add to my pad, as I'm discovering it's fairly easy to fall off the edge of the pad without that unconcious warning of the border my feet get from the arcade.

The sensors are a little tricker. Spare arcade sensors are available for $35 apiece, and 16 are needed per 4-panel pad - but at that price, it may almost be more cost-effective to buy a used machine. I think the next best sensors are riptide's mending bracket sensors - having a seperate 'sensor' for each side of each panel is most like the arcade. Of course, Stoli's and DDRHomepads sheet metal to sheet metal sensors are all right as well - it's the sort of sensor that the Cobalt Flux uses to great effect, and I haven't missed a step on those. (Well, discounting the fact that until recently, CF's didn't have sunken panels and it was hard to tell where I was on the pad riiight.gif )

Finally, a few folks have made backbars and posted pictures in this thread - do a search and you'll see them.

In my opinion, the pad that would look most like a beat-gear pad would be a riptide base with corner-bracket panels and mending-bracket sensors along with a stoli chrome border and X/O/diagonal buttons (though I'd probably be cheap here and use pushbuttons as the last mix with Solo on it is over three years old), and some sort of custom backpiece with bar. Though both Stoli and DDRHomepad have backpieces, I don't know if they were designed to support a bar.

Good luck! Feel free to ask any more questions you have.

DDR Homepad's Design
Riptide's Design
Stoli's Design
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HitokiriX
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4884. PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2005 9:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A new pad design for us to look at

http://www.ddrfreak.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=106816

Check it out! It's got lights and everything. Doesn't seem to use an external power source either. Looks pretty nice...but I asked about the price. 300 in a currency I don't know how to pronounce/type on the comp. I expect it would be over $140 cuz of the lights though.
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zaken
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4885. PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2005 10:55 am    Post subject: re Reply with quote

I think he does use external power source. If you look at the picture, there are 2 wires and 1 of the wire is to supply the CCFL he has in the panel.
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HitokiriX
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4886. PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2005 11:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK thanks for the correction zaken. The pad is like $360 dollars to make though so chances are if you have that kind of cash for DDR, you'd rather buy a manufactured CF with warranty. You'd save $60 too!
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zaken
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4887. PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2005 11:12 am    Post subject: re Reply with quote

Actually, if you look at his pad you will see his pad is rather sturdy. Not to mention the light is way cool ( he has a video clip on the other thread ) The switch he uses for the censor is very high standard, it is suppose to last 50 million press ( it claimed by its manufacturer. I check into it, the keyboard they are selling cost over 150 USD a piece ). Further more, if you build your own pad, you would know exactly how to fix it E1.gif So far, I heard he hasnt have problem with the pad.
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HitokiriX
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4888. PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2005 12:04 pm    Post subject: Re: re Reply with quote

zaken wrote:
Actually, if you look at his pad you will see his pad is rather sturdy. Not to mention the light is way cool ( he has a video clip on the other thread ) The switch he uses for the censor is very high standard, it is suppose to last 50 million press ( it claimed by its manufacturer. I check into it, the keyboard they are selling cost over 150 USD a piece ). Further more, if you build your own pad, you would know exactly how to fix it E1.gif So far, I heard he hasnt have problem with the pad.


...The point is no one is rich enough to build that thing! Doesnt matter how good it is, no one is gonna have the cash to buy supplies for it. If you have that much might as well buy a manufactured one with warranty. Warranty is way better than knowing how to fix something. Fixing costs money too you know.
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Heffenfeffer
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4889. PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2005 1:20 pm    Post subject: The joy of DIY Reply with quote

HitokiriX wrote:
zaken wrote:
Actually, if you look at his pad you will see his pad is rather sturdy. Not to mention the light is way cool ( he has a video clip on the other thread ) The switch he uses for the censor is very high standard, it is suppose to last 50 million press ( it claimed by its manufacturer. I check into it, the keyboard they are selling cost over 150 USD a piece ). Further more, if you build your own pad, you would know exactly how to fix it E1.gif So far, I heard he hasnt have problem with the pad.


...The point is no one is rich enough to build that thing! Doesnt matter how good it is, no one is gonna have the cash to buy supplies for it. If you have that much might as well buy a manufactured one with warranty. Warranty is way better than knowing how to fix something. Fixing costs money too you know.


True, but you forgot to factor in the fact that warranties expire. Since my homebuilt pad is now a year old, it's good to know how to fix it myself (since no one else'll do it for me.) Furthermore, if a problem arises that you can fix yourself, I'd much rather take an hour and fix it than wait for at least 10 days turnaround time for someone else's repair.

An analogy would be buying a Lexus or constructing a hot rod out of parts. The hot rod parts may be more expensive than the Lexus, but you can bet the builder knows how to fix whatever goes wrong by themselves. When the Lexus warranty expires, the owner will more than likely be out of luck if something goes wrong - unless they're willing to shell out money for parts the hot rodder has few problems constructing.

And, of course, there's a certain intrisic value of owning a fully-customized bit of machinery instead of just another Lexus.
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phoenix9
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4890. PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2005 4:27 pm    Post subject: CobaltFlux Replacment Lexan Reply with quote

As of the 13th of August CF started selling 9 panel sets of repacment lexan sheets, does anyone know wether ot not these are the right size for homepads... ?

I figure they're pre-cut and $35 for a set of nine, so you only need one set for two pads + one for when (i mean if) you break one (which is pretty impresive since its lexan).

Anyone ordered these?
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HitokiriX
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4891. PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2005 5:30 pm    Post subject: Re: CobaltFlux Replacment Lexan Reply with quote

phoenix9 wrote:
As of the 13th of August CF started selling 9 panel sets of repacment lexan sheets, does anyone know wether ot not these are the right size for homepads... ?

I figure they're pre-cut and $35 for a set of nine, so you only need one set for two pads + one for when (i mean if) you break one (which is pretty impresive since its lexan).

Anyone ordered these?


I can't say that I have...but I would definetly look into it. Hm....I don't know CF's that well but I assume that the arrow panels are octagonal? And since they're selling the decals as a separate buy, that would mean that these panels should be clear then. That would be perfect for anyone using corner braces, but not anyone using the screw type mods for holding the panels in place. Other than that this looks like a good buy!

Plexiglass goes for about that same price in hardware stores I believe but at a larger size since it only comes in huge squares. So I guess by buying them from CF you'd just be trading more plexiglass with precision cut panels.

Heffer: You make a good point there. However I have virtually never heard of a CF breaking down on anybody, anywhere, ever. The pads are made almost perfectly. They lack borders and all that, but still they're some of the most reliable pads out there. I guess it's just a difference in taste. Besides, the homemade one that cost $360 to me just looks like a regular homemade pad with lights. And in my opinion, $220 for lights is a bit much. riiight.gif
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zaken
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4892. PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2005 5:49 pm    Post subject: re Reply with quote

Hmm...CF pad comes with 6 month warranty, after that its the same thing with no warranty. CF is marked as 299 USD plus 50 dollars shipping. So the only thing you saved would be the work to build the pad.

Also, If you look at his panel closely, he is using a much thicker plexiglass. I think its at least 1/4" or even 1/2". Those plexiglass arent cheap but its much stronger than those you can buy in homedepot or lowes. As far as I know, CF pad doesnt break easy, but they do break sometimes. Check CF forum and you would know they do have some minor problems. Although compare to other pads, those problems is nothing. As Hef mention, if you do have problem , you would have to ship it back to CA, and thats at least a week back there and a week back to you.

I think homemade pad is more than just to save money in some cases. Many people enjoy building a pad from scratch. I talked to Amegon quite a few times and I know he spent a lot of time to imporve his pad E1.gif and he is very proud of his pad. Thats something you cant never get from spend 300 dollars in a store E1.gif and yeah....I am in the process of making one of Amegon's pad...LOL
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HitokiriX
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4893. PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2005 6:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

In the end it all comes down to money. To face facts, I just don't think that most people will be able to pay for a pad costing that much. Enuf said.
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deM'
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4894. PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2005 8:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, im really right in the nexus of this discussion, considering I have made 2 homepads and own a CF

I think the only thing thats wrong with the homepads is that, if you dont have VERY good wood/metal working skills, chances are, there are going to be small errors all over the place. Not things that are apperent in performance at first, but things that tend to wear on the pad.
Of course, since the pad was built by you, these things are normally easy to fix.

The cobalt on the other hand, imho is unbreakable... The design is so simple that the most that could possibly go wrong (when used under normal circumstances) is that a wire might break, or cbox may fry. Wires are easily repaired, and a cbox problem you *will* have with a homepad.
Even if the warantee runs out on a cf, you still have the option to buy the cbox or replacement parts from cf for pretty cheap, there is nothing complicated in cfs design and everything is very easily fixable.

Now, i have owned a cf for a little over 2 years now, and have never experienced any problem other than having to slightly bend one arrow up (completly normal, instructions are provided from cobalt flux, takes about 30 seconds)

On the otherhand, my homepads i have to frequently adjust, and its alot more work to fix.

One other thing to consider is that, despite how easily people on this forum have built homepads, the first pad is VERY tedious, if you have a normal work schedule, expect to spend 2 weeks recieving parts, and another month to build it. (At least for me, expirementing as i go)

One last thing in respect to the question about the replacement lexan panels cf sells, they are exactly 11x11" (Arcade dimensions) and are i *belive* .125" thick (1/8) they have holes drilled in each corner about 1" in from each side. Holes are 1/8"

Cobalts dont need to use thick plexi because there is no gap underneath the plex, its pressing onto a peice of metal less than an 1/8" below it, barely bending at all. I have never heard of anyone breaking a lexan panel on a cobalt.
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HitokiriX
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4895. PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2005 12:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

deM' (CRAZY?) wrote:
One last thing in respect to the question about the replacement lexan panels cf sells, they are exactly 11x11" (Arcade dimensions) and are i *belive* .125" thick (1/8) they have holes drilled in each corner about 1" in from each side. Holes are 1/8"

Cobalts dont need to use thick plexi because there is no gap underneath the plex, its pressing onto a peice of metal less than an 1/8" below it, barely bending at all. I have never heard of anyone breaking a lexan panel on a cobalt.


So the CF uses screws not corner braces? It looks like corner braces from the image..but first hand knowledge is way better than images I'm sure. If that's true then everyone should switch the opinions of my last post about the uses for CF lexan replacements. They should be used for the designs with screw securing mods, not the corner brace mod.
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deM'
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4896. PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2005 1:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, the Cobalt flux uses screws, not brackets =p

The arrow decals are cut in the corners to expose the bare metal where the corner braces would be, but they aren't there.
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MinN_Limited
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4897. PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2005 7:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey I'v got a problem...I just finished building a ddrhomepad style pad and it works great...but there are two small cracks in the corner of the lexan panels. should I worry? Is there anything I can do to stop the crack from getting larger?

thx
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HitokiriX
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4898. PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2005 7:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

MinN_Limited wrote:
Hey I'v got a problem...I just finished building a ddrhomepad style pad and it works great...but there are two small cracks in the corner of the lexan panels. should I worry? Is there anything I can do to stop the crack from getting larger?

thx


I dont' think so sorry. I have the same problem on a hard plexiglass sheet that I use as a portable hard surface to sit my computer chair on. It had a small crack in the corner half a year ago, and now the crack has grown so much that it's almost splitting the sheet in two.

You can slow down the growth of the crack by physically keeping the two sides of the crack together with a homemade staple that I made using a small piece of thick metal wiring.

Another solution that I haven't tried yet is to use a chemical product that can dissolve through lexan plexiglass. I dont' know if it exists since lexan is pretty damn tough, but if you can find something that'll dissolve lexan just pour it over the crack little by little and the sides of the crack should melt and reform as a solid sheet again.
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geckoinc99
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4899. PostPosted: Sun Oct 09, 2005 8:33 am    Post subject: repairing plexiglass Reply with quote

A simple repair is to use clear mailing tape and tape over the crack. It's clear enough that it doesn't show up. As far as dissolving Lexan or Plexiglass , Acetone or paint thinners (MEK might work) should be able to dissolve the plastic. I don't have any to test with at the moment, but you should get an effect from something like that. Just be aware that it will remove the see through aspect (the plastic gets real white and hazy).

David
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