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Synaesthesia
Trick Member
Joined: 03 Apr 2005
Location: Crushing all deceivers, smashing non-believers |
4840.  Posted: Sat Sep 03, 2005 6:52 pm Post subject: |
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| OmegaXander wrote: | Hey, is there any way to cut the lucite other than using a jigsaw or rotary tool? because I dont have either of those and it's a lot of money to spend for something I'll only use once
thx |
I used a hacksaw as well as the score-and-break method.
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im a lasagna whale
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toups
Basic Member
Joined: 03 Sep 2005
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| 4841. Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2005 5:31 am Post subject: A different design, and thanks to all |
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First a big thanks to all who have contributed designs and ideas to this and the previous threads.
I have finally nearly finished a pair of dance pads for the family. I used an original design of my own for the switches. Also, these pads use wood squares and vinyl floor tiles to make it look more like a wooden dance floor rather than a game dancepad.
The details can be seen at http://computertips.toups.info/dance_pad/index.html
Enjoy!  |
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phoenix9
Basic Member
Joined: 09 Apr 2005
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| 4842. Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2005 7:01 pm Post subject: |
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Thanx for the offers
Ok in regard to poster's pad: would you rate it better than riptide's, and what mods did he write? (somebody else sent me the lights one for paster's)
As for riptides vids: yea there are some seeds now, but its SLOOOWW!! oh well, ill leave it over night
XN: i look forward to seein how ur pads turn out
as for the X-B-R plans: im still lookin... any body have em at all? (im lookin to build a sm cab not just pads) |
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Future Master
Trick Member
Joined: 10 Jan 2004
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| 4843. Posted: Mon Sep 05, 2005 10:51 am Post subject: |
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Does anyone have to link to jedi jeff's pink arrow?
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Remember this name i will be your master someday... |
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Tenebrys
Basic Member
Joined: 27 Aug 2005
Location: Don't ask. |
| 4844. Posted: Mon Sep 05, 2005 3:14 pm Post subject: |
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Okies... since there's no real way to quickly search 420 pages of thread for the answer to this.
I'm using one of those 99-cent EA Sports PSX controllers in the pad I'm building, and just ordered this adapter to use with it. I'm asking this now, since if the answer is wrong, I don't want to find that out by myself later.
Will this adapter work for the pad? |
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mikieson
Trick Member
Joined: 14 Nov 2003
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| 4845. Posted: Mon Sep 05, 2005 3:41 pm Post subject: |
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| Tenebrys wrote: | Okies... since there's no real way to quickly search 420 pages of thread for the answer to this.
I'm using one of those 99-cent EA Sports PSX controllers in the pad I'm building, and just ordered this adapter to use with it. I'm asking this now, since if the answer is wrong, I don't want to find that out by myself later.
Will this adapter work for the pad? |
Well good luck. You are gonna get reamed for saying you didnt want to search through all the pages. Some will think you are lazy. I understand though. There are lots of posts and tons of links. |
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HitokiriX
Trick Member
Joined: 27 Mar 2004
Location: Berwyn, PA |
| 4846. Posted: Mon Sep 05, 2005 5:05 pm Post subject: |
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| Tenebrys wrote: | Okies... since there's no real way to quickly search 420 pages of thread for the answer to this.
I'm using one of those 99-cent EA Sports PSX controllers in the pad I'm building, and just ordered this adapter to use with it. I'm asking this now, since if the answer is wrong, I don't want to find that out by myself later.
Will this adapter work for the pad? |
yeah.....as Mikieson said, don't include your whole "I don't like looking for answers myself" thing. It'll save you lots of flaming. Anyway, your adapter may work, but it might also give you some lag in the timing. Like you may hafta time your steps 1/2 a second faster to get it right. I'd try the adapter with a regular system controller and a DDR game to see if it lags. If it doesn't then you should be ok. |
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XenoX101
Basic Member
Joined: 16 Aug 2005
Location: Australia, Victoria |
| 4847. Posted: Mon Sep 05, 2005 5:19 pm Post subject: Progress |
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My DDR pad is coming along nicely, although I have stumbled across a little problem. Ok so I want to get my arrow graphics printed out today, but I'm not sure which paper will work best so that the lights underneath will light up the arrow and make it glow. I want the whole arrow to be bright and vivid in the colour of the light underneath it but preferably without cutting out the arrow in the paper. Is there some kind of paper that will have this effect or will standard paper generally let light show through? I've tried searching but from what I gather nobody has asked this before. I don't exactly want to waste prints.
Basically what kind of paper would I need to print on to achieve this sort of effect on the arrow with a light underneath it....
http://www.digitaltorque.com/mydancepad/?displaypic=7%20-%20things%20to%20come%2Fddr017.jpg&non_lr=
Sorry for the rambling and all, but I'm just trying to be specific so that I get the right answers.
Thanks. |
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tolookah
Trick Member
Joined: 21 Sep 2003
Location: The People's Republic of Wesdives. |
| 4848. Posted: Mon Sep 05, 2005 6:08 pm Post subject: |
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This has been asked a number of times (the paper thing) but really never answered. I think normal paper will work fine, but I'm not sure, my suggestion would be to try with a flashlight the paper types
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Aim: Tolookah
MSN: Tolookah
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DDRPad Soldering and electrical Help: http://www.tolookah.net/DDR/ As hooded_paladin put it: "Currently, help for Beatpad Pro, official Sony Playstation Controller and ANY controller unless you are extremely stupid or lazy." |
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HitokiriX
Trick Member
Joined: 27 Mar 2004
Location: Berwyn, PA |
| 4849. Posted: Tue Sep 06, 2005 6:46 am Post subject: |
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Just try shining light through a regular piece of paper, and a piece of paper with a higher than regular shade of white. If the regular paper works better, use that. If the brighter piece, find the brightest piece of paper you can find, and that's your choice.
It's also not just the paper, but also the light. If you had a super bright light, it would help your situation a lot more than different kinds of paper. |
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XN
Basic Member
Joined: 10 Aug 2005
Location: BC, Canada |
| 4850. Posted: Tue Sep 06, 2005 1:15 pm Post subject: |
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If you watch Riptide's videos, it looks like the arrow graphics are actually applied as a black layer to the lucite - similar to a window applique.
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-Eccentricity |
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Raymond85
Basic Member
Joined: 07 Nov 2004
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| 4851. Posted: Thu Sep 08, 2005 10:14 am Post subject: |
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Hmm.. Cant seem to find the corner braces anywhere!
Argh...
Btw, is the riptides pad so god that a max300 player can play perfectly on it? |
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HitokiriX
Trick Member
Joined: 27 Mar 2004
Location: Berwyn, PA |
| 4852. Posted: Thu Sep 08, 2005 11:48 am Post subject: |
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| Raymond85 wrote: | Hmm.. Cant seem to find the corner braces anywhere!
Argh...
Btw, is the riptides pad so god that a max300 player can play perfectly on it? |
If built right, any pad design created on this forum has the potential to become the best pad you could ever use. But as of now no one has created a design that is significantly better than the others, and still be cheap enough for average people to buy supplies for. Riptide's, for example, gives just as good gaming performance as anyone else's pads, but I have heard that his pad is loud (contacts hitting each other), a little thick (2x4's add extra two inches), and the contact design takes time to adjust.
I'd suggest looking at all the designs and building a hybrid pad using parts from everyone's designs. You can use as much of one as you want, or even copy someone's pad entirely.
EDIT: heh...sorry I misread your post cuz of the word god (it was supposed to be good right?  ). Anyway, all the pads (not just riptide's) are very durable and will most likely survive longer than any manufactured pad out there except the CF (that's what you get for $300  ) and maybe the RedOctane. If not then it's most likely a problem with bad construction (not design) or cheap supplies. What's better is that since you built the pad yourself, you will most likely be able to figure out what the problem is and replace the broken parts with new ones! |
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phoenix9
Basic Member
Joined: 09 Apr 2005
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| 4853. Posted: Thu Sep 08, 2005 12:07 pm Post subject: |
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Since its no longer up, what was the contact design on Blue Beefman's pad?
Also, what was pasters like? and what mods did he make for it?
Does anybody still have info on either one? |
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geckoinc99
Trick Member
Joined: 11 Feb 2005
Location: Chattanooga, TN |
| 4854. Posted: Thu Sep 08, 2005 8:53 pm Post subject: Paper Types |
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XenoX101,
For your paper, Regular paper would probably work the best. Get too thick and light will now shine through. There's no reason to get glossy because the plexi will give it the gloss look. Now, something that you can do to increase the light efficiency is to put a reflective material in the bottom of your light well. Use aluminum foil or flashing (or if you know thing else that will work). Line the bottom and the sides. This will help it to reflect better. Also, if you just want the symbol to light up, I would put some reflective material on the underside where the black is so that it both blocks light from going through the black and forces more light to show up in the symbol. I don't know what kind of lighting scheme you're using, but that should make a dramatic improvement. Good luck!
David
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Life is very different 3000 feet above the earth with only a wing to hold you up....
Can't wait to be there again. Wanna join me? Visit http://www.hanglide.com
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XenoX101
Basic Member
Joined: 16 Aug 2005
Location: Australia, Victoria |
| 4855. Posted: Fri Sep 09, 2005 2:21 am Post subject: Re: Paper Types |
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| geckoinc99 wrote: | XenoX101,
For your paper, Regular paper would probably work the best. Get too thick and light will now shine through. There's no reason to get glossy because the plexi will give it the gloss look. Now, something that you can do to increase the light efficiency is to put a reflective material in the bottom of your light well. Use aluminum foil or flashing (or if you know thing else that will work). Line the bottom and the sides. This will help it to reflect better. Also, if you just want the symbol to light up, I would put some reflective material on the underside where the black is so that it both blocks light from going through the black and forces more light to show up in the symbol. I don't know what kind of lighting scheme you're using, but that should make a dramatic improvement. Good luck!
David |
Thanks . Thats exactly the kind of reply I was looking for. I'll take it from there  . |
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MinN_Limited
Trick Member
Joined: 28 Aug 2005
Location: Cambridge, Ontario, Canada |
| 4856. Posted: Fri Sep 09, 2005 5:02 pm Post subject: |
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Hey I was a bit confused on something...I've read about a lot of people having problems with their controller frying and such and people were suggesting to ground the pad. Would this mean grounding the screws on the pad itself or grounding the actual ground contacts on the controller?
Also if there are any other precautions you can think of so I dont fry my controller, could you tell me?
thx |
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stoli
Trick Member
Joined: 27 Mar 2005
Location: Southern NH |
| 4857. Posted: Sat Sep 10, 2005 6:13 pm Post subject: |
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| OmegaXander wrote: | Hey I was a bit confused on something...I've read about a lot of people having problems with their controller frying and such and people were suggesting to ground the pad. Would this mean grounding the screws on the pad itself or grounding the actual ground contacts on the controller?
Also if there are any other precautions you can think of so I dont fry my controller, could you tell me?
thx |
I'm not sure why some folks have problems frying controllers. It seems to be very isolated so that is a good thing. As far as "grounding the pad", I don't think it is necessary in most cases. It might be necessary if you are in an environment that is very conducive to static buildup. Depending on your pad's design, the static buildup could mess with the controller circuitry and cause problems. In that case, you could "ground the pad" by connecting the metal surfaces to the actual ground on the controller, or a ground on another power source if you happen to build a pad with lights or something. I think if you:
1. Be careful soldering on the controller board.
2. Don't solder, touch, or get any metal near the controller board while it is plugged into the PS2 or X-Box, etc.
3. Don't use an excessively long wire to connect your controller to the PS2, X-Box, etc.
I would suggest that you build the pad and try it out. If you have problems, then consider grounding.
* When I say "metal surfaces", I am referring to all the sheet metal on the pad that is NOT part of the switches.
Stoli
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Future Master
Trick Member
Joined: 10 Jan 2004
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| 4858. Posted: Tue Sep 13, 2005 10:15 am Post subject: |
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I juss finished building a riptide style pad. What is the max weight limit for the pad? Is the max weight limit based on the thickness of the plexiglass, because i juss used one 3/8" plexiglass for each arrow panel instead of two .22" plexiglass?
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Remember this name i will be your master someday... |
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HitokiriX
Trick Member
Joined: 27 Mar 2004
Location: Berwyn, PA |
| 4859. Posted: Tue Sep 13, 2005 11:30 am Post subject: |
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| Future Master wrote: | | I juss finished building a riptide style pad. What is the max weight limit for the pad? Is the max weight limit based on the thickness of the plexiglass, because i juss used one 3/8" plexiglass for each arrow panel instead of two .22" plexiglass? |
It's not good to use thicker than .22" plexiglass with the riptide pad because the arrow well has a limited about of space for the plexiglass to move. The amount of space is dependent on the thickness of the wooden triangles you screwed the corner braces onto, which if you followed riptide's tutorial should be 3/4 inches. With 2 pieces of 3/8 inch plexiglass you're already over 3/4" and along with the space the plexiglass takes up, you also need space for the plexiglass to move up and down. You can always make the wooden triangle thicker though so that's a solution if you already got the plexiglass. |
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