My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)

[XN]

"..does anyone know of how to get Riptide's sheet metal to be black?"

Anodized aluminum.

Can be done to aluminum in many different colours, lasts long, protects the metal, enhances durability, doesn't chip off easily (if at all). Only downside is it cannot be made "white" - they can only "clean anodize" the aluminum.
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-Eccentricity

[HitokiriX]

[Lucho]

Hey sup guys and girls!

I'm finally done with my dance pad and it works like a charm just need to screw down the brackets and its entirely done!

[mikieson]

Looks nice. Hope the performance dont change after you tighten up the brackets?....

[Lucho]

yes it still works very well with brackets

[Ulala321]

Nice looking pad. *thumbs up*

[slvrshdw]

very nice

i see u even put a sticker on the back

it looks well thought out and planned, like they should be

looks just like the arcade pads...now u just need to make another and put it next to it (but thats expensive)

SUPER awesome
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[Future Master]

Is a 15 watt or 30 watt gun good for soldering to the circuit board? What solder is better rosin core or solder flux?
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Remember this name i will be your master someday...

[Future Master]

And what size of solder?
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Remember this name i will be your master someday...

[Prozzorp]

Master: Generally smaller solder is easier to use. I would recommend using a soldering iron instead of a gun, but a 30 watt gun would also work fine (an iron is easier for smaller spaces)

[Paramount X]

Ok for the corner braces and drilling the hole. How did the corner braces for the wood did not crack, when drilling the screw in.

For Riptides design

[slvrshdw]

well, for me anyway, i dont like to cut the corners off the plex and make that wooden triangle...

but as long as u drill the hole in the triangle first, with the right size of bit, and THEN put the screw in, it shouldnt split/break

the way i do it, and found i like it alot better, is just to drill a lil bigger holes in the plex where the screws go thru and then you dont really need to worry about custom fitting the corner pieces of wood together
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[Lucho]

For those who wonder how to put corner brackets using stoli's design here is how I did




u need to cut the plexi of course where the holes begin.

I've tried to use the wood thing but im not very handy with tools so none of my piece where the good size ^^

[marcan]

I've been looking into the lights thing. It seems StepMania already has all the code needed to handle lights for buttons (individually), and even has a preference for setting lights on press vs lights on note. (i.e. lights when YOU press vs lights when you SHOULD press). But, no LightsDriver actually uses that info (except the SystemMessage one. Go ahead and try it, set BlinkGameplayButtonLightsOnNote=1 and LightsDriver=SystemMessage on your .ini, play and see how the info on the screen matches the arrows as they arrive on the screen. With BlinkGameplayButtonLightsOnNote=0, it matches what you actually press.)

I've got it up and running under linux (haven't tested the physical hardware, since I currently have none, but the changes are trivial, and if the usual LightsDriver works, then this does too). Any windows folk with a working StepMania compile environment want to step up and I'll send him the patch?

[Ulala321]

To those who have built pads using Stoli's design, or Stoli himself: Have you encountered a problem where both the X and O buttons are "confirm" buttons in DDRMAX2? I can't seem to go back to previous screens, as both buttons (including the O) take me forward and eventually into a song. Please tell me I didn't screw up my wiring.

[edit] Well I opened up the controller to check the wiring, and it was spot on. Anyway, to fix the problem, I soldered the O switch on my pad to the Triangle contact in the controller. Now X goes forward and O goes back. Whew! *wipes sweat from forehead*

Also, one more question for anyone who might know, I bought an X-Box JoyBox controller adapter so I could plug my madcatz retro ps2 controller into my X-Box. I tried it out, and in the menu screens and song select screens, the reaction is very delayed. I have to hold the X button down for about 2-3 seconds before the game responds. I assumed this had to do with the fact that pushing on the pad, sending the signal to the PS2 controller, then to the JoyBox adapter, then finally to the X-Box might delay the signal sent, or might even cause the signal to lose power along the current, thus a delay. However, upon trying a song on the X-Box with the adapter and my pad, pushing on the arrows has very little delay, if any at all. I can basically play songs okay, but selecting them is a real pain. Very perculiar in my opinion, any electrical engineers out there know what might be causing a delay in the Menu, and not during the song? Thanks guys!

[kyj197]

[kyj197]

[kyj197]

[kyj197]

Does anyone plan to make a metal pad with these sensor?

http://www.channelbeat.com/products/parts/dance_dance_revolution_parts/115.html



http://mymybox.com/ddracc20.html


http://www.channelbeat.com/products/parts/pump_it_up_parts/150.html

with this 1 cm acrylic foot panel arrow

http://www.channelbeat.com/products/parts/pump_it_up_parts/319.html



This would be Super and my dream Arcade metal pad (play on both Pump It Up and DDR metal pad).

[Raymond85]

Hi, I have been away from this forum/post for a while because I havent got time to build the pad yet.
Anyway. I havent read all the post here, too much.. So the thing Im wondierng about is if its any new better (improved) designs to follow out now?
I have to designs on my computer, riptides and that homepad design. I chose riptides.

But just now i found the link to solis design that looked way better than riptides. Is solis the way to go? I mean.. It looks alot cooler! ;