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My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)
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deM'
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4740. PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2005 12:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, that i can think of the only other designs are patsters and blue beefmans, but neither of them offered guides of how to build them, so not the best bet for someone building their first pad. Patsters design is an arcade replica more or less, and BBmans is basically a riptide pad with altered sensor and support designs.
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XenoX101
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4741. PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2005 3:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alright, I have a few questions.

Firstly, which of those pads can you feel the arrows? Is it possible to make stoli's have arrows that you can feel without redesigning the whole thing?

Secondly, If I want to add lights underneath the buttons that light up when the button is hit, how would I do that? Is there a tutorial somewhere? Also can I add this later and is it doable on all the designs?

Sorry about this, but I don't know how I would go about finding this information through this thread.

Lastly, what are the differences between the designs in terms of technical difficulty, I am not the kind of person to build their own wardrobes and shelves and I most probably will encounter problems during creation, but I'd like to know which is the easiest to make without sacrificing quality, I still want this to be a robust pad that will last me and works like the arcade ones.

Oh actually, I have one last thing, for the parts that use stainless steel in stoli's design, is it possible to use a different material? Is there any way I could implement a smooth, rubber-looking black material kind of like this one ..

What would that be classified as and how could I go about to making the pad of that texture/appearance.

I know I've asked alot in this post but I really want to make my own DDR pad. I'm going to be using custom arrows because I'm a graphic designer and its adding my own touch and if anyone wants me to help them with some designs feel free to ask, thats all I can think of but um.. wait I also have cookies. Yes, cookies

Thanks.
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Paramount X
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4742. PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2005 10:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.digitaltorque.com/mydancepad/

For arrows that are recessed
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actjksn
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4743. PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2005 11:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just out of curiousity, how is everyone cutting plexiglass? I spoke to a guy at Home Depot about cutting lucite, and he said if I just scored the lucite a bunch of times with a utility knife it should be able to break and I'd just have to file it down a bit...has anyone done it like that?
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Paramount X
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4744. PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2005 11:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I heard to cut plexi usign the jig saw, Your suppose to use 14 tpi blade.
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slvrshdw
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4745. PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2005 1:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

act-i just used a jig saw (i think it was the 14 tpi, i think its usually called the metal blade...tpi=thats teeth per inch right?)

xenox-if ur planning on putting lights in the pad do NOT use stolis, because its really thin...not good for adding lights..

use riptides pad..www.digitaltorque.com/mydancepad
same as paramount said..

u could use varnish instead of the sheet metal...some one else here did it but i cant rmr who, sorry E2.gif


id just recommend riptides pad; its heavier, more stable (IMO) and i atually got it to work riiight.gif w/o much trouble at ALL
(the only i might do different is a lil bit about the contact system..that was a hastle and i think i got an idea of a better idea)

riptides plans have a center space that u could add lights because they are HOLLOW E1.gif

another thing about just about any dance pad thats like an inch or thicker..
BUILD A BORDER!!
riptide doesnt have one, but when your cutting the base board, just add in another length of a 2x4 (3 1/2" i think)..maybe two 2x4s (7") if u want a top and bottom border mostly like the arcade, and a two 2x2s for teh sides (i dont know those measurements..sorry)

my friend messed up his ankle twice on his RO ignition pad becuz it didnt have a border, and on mine thats about 3 1/2" off the ground..so id add it in

(i might make a riptides based pad instructions on my site later WITH the border and measurements on it too)

just AIM, email me if u need help, im usually not doing anything at all E15.gif

hope that convinces u to make a riptide/homepad pad E15.gif hahaha
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Prozzorp
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4746. PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2005 2:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

actjksn wrote:
Just out of curiousity, how is everyone cutting plexiglass? I spoke to a guy at Home Depot about cutting lucite, and he said if I just scored the lucite a bunch of times with a utility knife it should be able to break and I'd just have to file it down a bit...has anyone done it like that?


I find that if you don't have a jigsaw, a metal handsaw works fine (at least for small cuts).

Also, a question for anyone who has tried lights with Riptide's design: What mcd do you need for the light to be visible through the plexiglass? I've found a range from 3000 to 6000 (http://www.lsdiodes.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=2), and THC3 (not sure what mcd...) (http://www.lsdiodes.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=14). Is there a tutorial for it anywhere? I was thinking of putting another strip of sheet metal in the middle of the bottom of the plexiglass, then doing two screws with a resistor and LED, then attach them all to some batteries and ground.

Edit: Did Riptide ever get around to updating the videos?
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deM'
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4747. PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2005 4:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Prozzorp:

There is already a fully working light schematic for a riptide pad without having to use 2 switchs. It incorporates a basic transistor circuit and an external power source.

The circuit is http://marcansoft.com/subidos/images/sgdp/simpleleds2.png

marcan wrote:
The idea here is that the switch turns on the LEDs directly, no transistor involved, nothing strange to worry about. The battery is wired with common ground with the controller, which simplifies things. The transistor just handles the controller part, which means waaaaaaaaaay less power to handle and almost any signal NPN transistor will do. You can choose the LED array to your liking as no transistor is involved in that part. Also the battery is fully disconnected if the switch is not pressed, which means it will last forever when not used (no leakage currents). (of course the battery self-discharges, as all do, but the circuit itself has nothing to do with this and can't prevent it anyway). You could even use light bulbs instead of LEDs and use a suitable battery. Almost any power supply up to say 24V will be totally fine, and as low as 2 or 3V should work fine as far as the transistor is concerned.

How it works is very simple: the switch turns on the LEDs the obvious way, and the high voltage now present on the LEDs will also activate the transistor (through a current-limiting resistor) which will act as a closed switch and make the controller register a button press. No voodoo or black magic involved


The resistors and LED layout on my schematic is calculated for 4 white LEDs at 18mA and 9V supply. For calculating your values for the LED array, I recommend this site, which will do everything for you.



slvrshdw:
The border around the side of the pad is approx .75"
This can be acheived even easier by attaching a peice of 3/4" mdf or plywood to the side and covering the top with either the sheetmetal, flashing, or aluminium foil tape.
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geckoinc99
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4748. PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2005 4:08 pm    Post subject: cutting plexiglass Reply with quote

For those asking about cutting plexiglass, if you have access to a table saw it will work very well. Just use a blade with as many teeth as possible (or can afford, 60 is a good number). Then set the blade height to be just a little bit higher than the plexi (about 1/4 to 1/2 inch higher). Just pass it through slowly and you'll get a real nice cut. The scoring thing sort of works, but if you screw up it can ruin the entire piece of plexiglass. Otherwise a jigsaw or a hand circular saw should also work. Just pass through the material slowly. Don't try to force it.

David
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Paramount X
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4749. PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2005 5:36 pm    Post subject: Re: cutting plexiglass Reply with quote

geckoinc99 wrote:
For those asking about cutting plexiglass, if you have access to a table saw it will work very well. Just use a blade with as many teeth as possible (or can afford, 60 is a good number). Then set the blade height to be just a little bit higher than the plexi (about 1/4 to 1/2 inch higher). Just pass it through slowly and you'll get a real nice cut. The scoring thing sort of works, but if you screw up it can ruin the entire piece of plexiglass. Otherwise a jigsaw or a hand circular saw should also work. Just pass through the material slowly. Don't try to force it.

David



I care to differ. As many teeth as possible. I have one, its teeth are short and close together. and the plexigllas will melt and reform
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Tenesu
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4750. PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2005 7:12 pm    Post subject: Re: cutting plexiglass Reply with quote

Paramount X wrote:
geckoinc99 wrote:
For those asking about cutting plexiglass, if you have access to a table saw it will work very well. Just use a blade with as many teeth as possible (or can afford, 60 is a good number). Then set the blade height to be just a little bit higher than the plexi (about 1/4 to 1/2 inch higher). Just pass it through slowly and you'll get a real nice cut. The scoring thing sort of works, but if you screw up it can ruin the entire piece of plexiglass. Otherwise a jigsaw or a hand circular saw should also work. Just pass through the material slowly. Don't try to force it.

David



I care to differ. As many teeth as possible. I have one, its teeth are short and close together. and the plexigllas will melt and reform


I used a table saw as well and it worked fine. A 12" combination (for ripping and crosscutting wood) blade with 80 teeth and a moderate feed rate produced clean cuts and no melting. I'd steer clear of plywood (lots of teeth) blades myself as they tend to melt rather then cut the material (in my experience).

Oh, and use safety glasses or a face shield if you do it this way. If you have an accident and feed too fast or jam the material somehow it can make some nasty chips that can fly back into your face.
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Future Master
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4751. PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2005 8:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Im doing the riptide design. I was wondering what do u use on on the bottom of the plexiglass to connect the mending brackets? Do you you put four longer mending brackets on the plexiglass to connect the ground n arrow wire mending brackets? Or do you just do it ddrhomepad style by putting a big piece of sheet metal on the bottom of the plexiglass? Or four rectangles of sheet metal?
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4752. PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2005 9:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It doesn't realyl matter.

I;d say go with the strips of metal. Because you don't really want to cut another piece. As long as some type of metal is touching them and connecting you can do anything.
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4753. PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2005 9:58 pm    Post subject: Re: A controller Reply with quote

Paramount X wrote:
Hey I want to make a contrller box from scatch

Like this. Did anyone ever made one similar to this, or somethin liek this with all the same functions
{image removed}


like take a controller and put it into a control box? there is a madcatz pad that has xbox and ps2 capability along with the spot for the live headset. That is most likely what you want.

Edit: As for the USB end, it wouldn't be hard to adapt the xbox cable to be both xbox and USB (its the same communication spec)
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XenoX101
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4754. PostPosted: Sat Aug 20, 2005 4:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alright, I'm going with riptide's. Does anyone have a mirror for the videos or anything? The torrents won't work and the mirror he provided is down (well the videos are).

This would really help me as I'm not very savvy in this area. Anyway any info on how to implement lights would be appreciated, but for the most part I'd still like to know if I can get the panels which aren't buttons to look like this...



Without causing the design to flop, or have less sturdiness, does anyone know a material I could use, or something? Oh well thanks for the help so far anyway.
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Ðark @ngel
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4755. PostPosted: Sat Aug 20, 2005 6:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

XenoX101 wrote:

CUT...

This would really help me as I'm not very savvy in this area. Anyway any info on how to implement lights would be appreciated, ...CUT...


to add light in the riptide's pad you can add some UB led in the space under the arrow pannel connected in this way:
http://marcansoft.com/subidos/images/sgdp/simpleleds2.png (like dem0nic say) if you have a usbpad you can use +5 volt supplyed by usb connector instead 9v external (resizing only the resistor)
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mikieson
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4756. PostPosted: Sat Aug 20, 2005 8:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well Im almost done with my new pad. I just need to drill the holes for my buttons in my control box. By the way..the metal isnt green, its gold color. My wall is green and reflecting on it..But green might be nice..LOL
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v470/mikieson/pad.jpg
Hope the link works as good as the pad...haha
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XenoX101
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4757. PostPosted: Sat Aug 20, 2005 9:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mikieson wrote:
Well Im almost done with my new pad. I just need to drill the holes for my buttons in my control box. By the way..the metal isnt green, its gold color. My wall is green and reflecting on it..But green might be nice..LOL
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v470/mikieson/pad.jpg
Hope the link works as good as the pad...haha


Very nice, what design did you use and did you modify it at all? I like the surface, is it the same material as the one used on the design you followed? Or did you choose a different material.

Also have you had any troubles in terms of accidently hitting the controlbox? Personally I'd put it a bit further from the pad if possible, or recess it a bit if you can (even if it makes it wider) so that if you do accidently hit it it will be hit from the top not from the sides. Just a few thoughts, it looks professional though good job E1.gif.

I'm buying the materials for RipTide's Design tomorrow and making my design with the help of my dad, his tools and my friend's tools, wish me luck!

Also I'll post my arrow designs tomorrow for anyone else who wants to use them, also an optional tiny (about 5cm long, 2.5cm high)sticker that says "XenoX DESIGN - xenoxdesign.50webs.com" which you can put anywhere on your pad for anybody who wants to credit me E10.gif. Not necessary ofcourse, I can't (and don't want to) tell you what to do with my design. Just incase you feel guilty for using my design riiight.gif.
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Paramount X
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4758. PostPosted: Sat Aug 20, 2005 9:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have the vidoes, Im me at Parmount X(AIM
super_Sayin_12_goku(yahoo)
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Paramount X
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4759. PostPosted: Sat Aug 20, 2005 9:37 am    Post subject: Re: A controller Reply with quote

tolookah wrote:
Paramount X wrote:
Hey I want to make a contrller box from scatch

Like this. Did anyone ever made one similar to this, or somethin liek this with all the same functions
{image removed}


like take a controller and put it into a control box? there is a madcatz pad that has xbox and ps2 capability along with the spot for the live headset. That is most likely what you want.

Edit: As for the USB end, it wouldn't be hard to adapt the xbox cable to be both xbox and USB (its the same communication spec)




but how I mean. would I have to have 2 xbox wires. ocming from the pad.

if not would I hae to add a break a way jack to the pad and the wire for the usb.
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