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My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)
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stoli
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Location: Southern NH
4720. PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2005 7:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

tolookah wrote:
stoli: can we get a pic of the ckt board? on the madcatz, it may actually be a high signal, +5v.
...


There are some pics on my site (last 3) at:

http://home.comcast.net/~stoli16/ddr/final/index.html

but I don't think they will answer any questions. No big deal, just curious. I have read about people frying controllers and having problems and I was wondering if the apparent innacurate reference to "ground" on this forum might be the cause of some of those problems.

-Stoli
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Ðark @ngel
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4721. PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2005 8:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

KazeNoKoneko wrote:
Ðark @ngel wrote:

i'm arround 60Kg (130Lb), were i can found a 100x plexy?


130lbs should be perfectly fine at 10x plexi... unless you really try to break the stuff. Glass is stronger than you think, and 10x stronger than glass is quite strong. The problem with the 100x is that I can't find it in a .22 inch, only in a .125 inch... which would mean twice as much plexi per panel if you wanna keep the same deminsions as most of the pads that are out there. It's also slightly more expensive.

If you are really this worried about the panels breaking then I can try and look up some exact figures on the weight it should support.

Edit:
Seems like I forgot to mention where to find the stuff. Both Lowes and Home Depot in my area carry both the 10x and 100x. If your stores don't have it, they can most likely order it for you. You can also check your local yellow pages for plexiglass and glass suppliers, I know several of the window companies around here will also sell you the stuff.


tnx a lot!

this is a photo of pad under costruction:

http://www.webalice.it/roberto_ferri2/Foto.jpg

in the "neon hole" i want to place 4 microswitch DPDT (1 for side) and up to they the plexy. this morning i've tryed whit a single 5mm plexy and it seems to resist but it fold a lot.
next i would to try 2x5mm plexy screwed together.
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KazeNoKoneko
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4722. PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2005 9:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ðark @ngel wrote:

tnx a lot!

this is a photo of pad under costruction:

http://www.webalice.it/roberto_ferri2/Foto.jpg

in the "neon hole" i want to place 4 microswitch DPDT (1 for side) and up to they the plexy. this morning i've tryed whit a single 5mm plexy and it seems to resist but it fold a lot.
next i would to try 2x5mm plexy screwed together.


Looks great, I've actually considered DPDT microswitches myself. Gonna look into it later today or tomorrow.

But a word of warning. DO NOT screw the plexi together. From what I've heard it will almost definately crack. It should be fine just sitting ontop of each other after you finish your pad (the corner brackets or whatever your alternative for them is will hold everything together). If you MUST bond the two sheets of plexi together, use some sort of contact adhesive. Just make sure to remove any air bubbles and such if you go that route.
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Ðark @ngel
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4723. PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2005 10:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

like this?

******** plexy
----------- glue
arrow graphics
----------- glue
******** plexy

corner brackets are no sell in my town (no one know what they are E1.gif )
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deM'
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4724. PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2005 11:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, without corner braces that will complicate things... Stolis pad doesnt use corner braces because he screws the plexi into the base. I recommend buying the braces over at doityourselfwarehouse.com 45 bucks or so gets you all the braces you need for a pad. there should be no need for glue if your following any of the 3 popular designs.
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dance2arrows
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4725. PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2005 5:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

E2.gif
hello this is my first metal pad i got. its a BlueSpark. well when i got it and hooked it up everything was ok except the right arrow. The lights light up on it except for the top light on it... The Game wont pick it up when i step on it either. Any one know how to fix this? thanks
cya
chris! oya
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Ðark @ngel
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4726. PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2005 3:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

tnx to all for answer!

if it interests i have made it in this way:

http://www.webalice.it/roberto_ferri2/side.JPG (size are in mm)

the hole in the plexy are 1mm wider diameter of the screw to let the plexy move when pressed and don't break (i hope E1.gif )
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deM'
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4727. PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2005 11:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I Doubt 8mm will work, im using .5 inch and while it wont break, it does give a little bit. 8mm will snap in like a week
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Aflac
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4728. PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2005 2:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dem0nic's right, 8mm is very very thin for a piece of plexiglass. Unless you are lightweight or plan on getting Lexan, 8mm will crack quickly. I'm using two sheets of 3/32 of Optix (20x stronger than glass [ Lexan is 200x stronger]), I'm about 150lbs, and already I have two minute cracks in my up arrow. It still works fine though. But anyway, I would suggest at least .25 inch plexiglass/lucite/lexan.
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mikieson
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4729. PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2005 2:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

From my use of arcade style buttons on my DDR Pads. Seems to me like microswiches will make extra noise that will only add to the loudness?
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deM'
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4730. PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2005 2:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, mikieson, im thinking that a quiet click everytime that you are stomping wont be heard.
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Aflac
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4731. PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2005 6:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

plus the click might help you get your timing better. But yeah, it probably wont be noticed if you turn up the sound.
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Ðark @ngel
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4732. PostPosted: Wed Aug 17, 2005 3:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aflac wrote:
dem0nic's right, 8mm is very very thin for a piece of plexiglass. Unless you are lightweight or plan on getting Lexan, 8mm will crack quickly. I'm using two sheets of 3/32 of Optix (20x stronger than glass [ Lexan is 200x stronger]), I'm about 150lbs, and already I have two minute cracks in my up arrow. It still works fine though. But anyway, I would suggest at least .25 inch plexiglass/lucite/lexan.


0.25 inch are 6mm
8 mm are 0.3 inch
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Ðark @ngel
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4733. PostPosted: Wed Aug 17, 2005 4:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mikieson wrote:
From my use of arcade style buttons on my DDR Pads. Seems to me like microswiches will make extra noise that will only add to the loudness?


OMRON 's microswitch are most silent, the "click" is absent
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mikieson
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4734. PostPosted: Wed Aug 17, 2005 4:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool...I didnt know they could make them quiet?. Well I was just making sure he thought about that before hand.......Good luck to him... biggrin.gif
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Aflac
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4735. PostPosted: Wed Aug 17, 2005 8:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ðark @ngel wrote:
Aflac wrote:
dem0nic's right, 8mm is very very thin for a piece of plexiglass. Unless you are lightweight or plan on getting Lexan, 8mm will crack quickly. I'm using two sheets of 3/32 of Optix (20x stronger than glass [ Lexan is 200x stronger]), I'm about 150lbs, and already I have two minute cracks in my up arrow. It still works fine though. But anyway, I would suggest at least .25 inch plexiglass/lucite/lexan.


0.25 inch are 6mm
8 mm are 0.3 inch


doh. I meant at least two sheets of .25in. which makes .5in.
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Paramount X
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4736. PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2005 12:24 pm    Post subject: A controller Reply with quote

Hey I want to make a contrller box from scatch

Like this. Did anyone ever made one similar to this, or somethin liek this with all the same functions

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Paramount X
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4737. PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2005 8:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How dO I cut plexglass with a Jig saw. The plastic just molds right back
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deM'
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4738. PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2005 9:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, first off if the plexi is melting that means your bit is to small, if its cracking that means its too big. But if its melting what you do, cut it once through, then run through the cuts a second time quickly and break it
then file it down
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XenoX101
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4739. PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2005 12:01 am    Post subject: List of home-built pads Reply with quote

Hi,

Sorry to bother you all with such a question, I tried searching and skimming but I don't know what to search nor am I too willing to go through 237 pages of posts riiight.gif . But I'd just like to know, what are the current pads I can choose from when it comes to home-built designs?

So far I know of the following

- DDRhomepad
- Riptide
- Stoli

However I only discovered Stoli after skimming around so I imagine there are more, I'm planning on making my own pad and so far Stoli's seems to be closest to what I want to achieve, but I think it would be good to have a list of all of them, as there may be many more hidden in the 237 odd pages, (maybe you could even edit the first post of this topic to contain all of them? Just a suggestion.)

Anyway if anyone could help me out with this that would be great, even if you only know a few I can accumalate them one by one to form a list.

Thanks!

Thanks.
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