View previous topic :: View next topic |
Author |
Message |
slvrshdw Trick Member
Joined: 05 Jan 2005
|
4620. Posted: Tue Aug 02, 2005 7:52 am Post subject: |
|
|
well, i wouldnt even bother with an xbox controller...i tried and fried 2 controllers, but
i just spent the money for a xbox softpad and used the PCB (circuit board)
still working after about 3-5 months...(cant rmr )
or u can get a ps2 pad/ps2 controller and get that converter ps2->xbox (i have 2 )
i bought my first one for 10 on clearance at walmart, and teh second on clearance for THREE dollars!!...at walmart about 3 months later
so if u want that get it for 3 bucks, they normally cost about $20 _________________
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
Paramount X Trick Member
Joined: 15 Jun 2005
|
4621. Posted: Tue Aug 02, 2005 10:32 am Post subject: |
|
|
He,s right. I think its better to buy a dance pad(cheap) and then just coneect it to the HMDP. home made dance pad. Hey, does any one have an iron cad version. Cause I just made one. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Paramount X Trick Member
Joined: 15 Jun 2005
|
4622. Posted: Tue Aug 02, 2005 5:51 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Ok I've made riptides version of HMDP on iron cad.
This was made with 2x3 instead of 2x4
800x600
1024x768
1280x1024 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
mikieson Trick Member
Joined: 14 Nov 2003
|
4623. Posted: Tue Aug 02, 2005 7:58 pm Post subject: |
|
|
All these different pad designs are great...But....You dont even have to make your pad thick. You waste money, weight, and time by adding all these different wood structures to your pad. I do know what im talking about. I do build my pads and use the crap out of them. I also sell some on the side. My pad is made with 3/8" or 5/8" plywood for the bottom. Then the solid squares are the same. That is how thick my pads are. Im 250+lbs and I play hard!!!.
Try different things. I make my own corner brackets. They cost me about a 1.00 for some scrap metal I pick up at my local metal shop....Save time and money without the sacrifice of quality. I would deffinately put my pads up against anything from RO, or CF...and for that matter the arcade. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
MyDancePad Basic Member
Joined: 28 Apr 2004 Location: bloomington, mn |
4624. Posted: Tue Aug 02, 2005 8:08 pm Post subject: |
|
|
mikieson wrote: |
Try different things. I make my own corner brackets. They cost me about a 1.00 for some scrap metal I pick up at my local metal shop....Save time and money without the sacrifice of quality. I would deffinately put my pads up against anything from RO, or CF...and for that matter the arcade. |
do you have a pic of yours?
_________________
visit my site for an indepth tutorial on building your own arcade style dance pad
My Dance Pad
riki |
|
Back to top |
|
|
mikieson Trick Member
Joined: 14 Nov 2003
|
4625. Posted: Tue Aug 02, 2005 8:49 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Sure if I can get the link to work. This is my pad with an emergency control box..LOL...I have since built a nice metal box. The colors were added because I was too lazy to make my arrows...Anyways...this is mine. Works like a dream.
http://photobucket.com/albums/v470/mikieson/th_NewpadRedo42905.jpg |
|
Back to top |
|
|
mikieson Trick Member
Joined: 14 Nov 2003
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
marcan Trick Member
Joined: 28 Jul 2005
|
4627. Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2005 1:16 pm Post subject: |
|
|
nice pad! I'm getting nice ideas for my physical design from all of you
In the meantime, my PS2 controller "emulator" is working: the PS2 now responds to button presses issued through my microcontroller. The interface hardware is minimal: just the barebones to get the microcontroller to work, and one transistor (NPN small signal - pick whatever you like, it doesn't really matter, I use BC547) and a resistor. Optionally I might add more protection resistors to safeguard the PS2 controller port.
Now I'll tackle the analog inputs (should be easy, I've used them several times before), and add the nifty settings-modes etc. More to come |
|
Back to top |
|
|
mikieson Trick Member
Joined: 14 Nov 2003
|
4628. Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2005 2:28 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Well glad you like it. I may get a new pic of my newly made controll box. Its a lot better than the tupperware bowl..LOL.....Good luck with your pad and if you need any help...Dont be scared to ask!...... |
|
Back to top |
|
|
stupidbarber Trick Member
Joined: 28 Feb 2005
|
4629. Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2005 5:33 pm Post subject: |
|
|
mikieson wrote: | Well here is a better pic.. |
That looks great! What material did you make the arrow panels out of? (and do you wear shoes when you play?) |
|
Back to top |
|
|
mikieson Trick Member
Joined: 14 Nov 2003
|
4630. Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2005 5:51 pm Post subject: |
|
|
The arrow pannels are made out of 2x 1/4" plexiglass. The color I just added on them for the web with Photoshop CS. Sorry if you thought it was how they really look. I got some glue on my plexiglass by trial and error....LOL..So I can use any graphix. All you would see is a bunch of glue...Dang glue!..
And yes I do play most all the time with shoes. But I can also play in socks.It is quite slick though so I dont. This is my trial and error pad so it dont look quite as good as the ones I sell. I use a nicely made controll box and its a much nicer finished look. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Paramount X Trick Member
Joined: 15 Jun 2005
|
4631. Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2005 8:12 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Hey I got a 4 ft by 3 ft sheet metal. By doing Riptides design will I have sheet metal left over for some borderrs |
|
Back to top |
|
|
MyDancePad Basic Member
Joined: 28 Apr 2004 Location: bloomington, mn |
4632. Posted: Wed Aug 03, 2005 9:34 pm Post subject: |
|
|
very nice pad!!!
what did you use for the center braces? they do not look like stanley (heheh) over all, nice job on the trim - Im always too lazy to put a finishing touch on mine. It works and takes a beating. thats all I need. LOL _________________
visit my site for an indepth tutorial on building your own arcade style dance pad
My Dance Pad
riki |
|
Back to top |
|
|
mikieson Trick Member
Joined: 14 Nov 2003
|
4633. Posted: Thu Aug 04, 2005 1:55 am Post subject: |
|
|
Thanks. I used some 3/4x3/4" angle aluminum for the borders.The brackets were made with some scrap metal I had. So they were free. I just made out a drawing of a bracket. Cut them out. Clamped each one down. Then bent with a hammer. Lots cheaper than the stanley brackets I bought for the 2 first pads I built. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Paramount X Trick Member
Joined: 15 Jun 2005
|
4634. Posted: Thu Aug 04, 2005 12:08 pm Post subject: |
|
|
When someone says a ground wire, what do they mean. they said the power but I do not understand. Can someoen draw a diagram or explan it. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
mikieson Trick Member
Joined: 14 Nov 2003
|
4635. Posted: Thu Aug 04, 2005 12:19 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Paramount X wrote: | When someone says a ground wire, what do they mean. they said the power but I do not understand. Can someoen draw a diagram or explan it. |
Everything has a common ground. Each button on a contoller has a ground that goes to it and then connects to the main circuit of the board.
Every button has a POWER..or Possitive side. When the 2 "ground,possitive" connect that makes the circuit complete.
When you push a button on your controller it has a small piece of metal on the underside of that button that makes the circuit complete under that button. Which makes the controller do what you wanted it to do.
Just like each arrow on a dance pad. It has a possitive and a negative. The when you step on the arrow. It completes the circuit making it work.
Hope this helps some.... |
|
Back to top |
|
|
marcan Trick Member
Joined: 28 Jul 2005
|
4636. Posted: Thu Aug 04, 2005 1:51 pm Post subject: |
|
|
mikieson wrote: | Paramount X wrote: | When someone says a ground wire, what do they mean. they said the power but I do not understand. Can someoen draw a diagram or explan it. |
Everything has a common ground. Each button on a contoller has a ground that goes to it and then connects to the main circuit of the board.
Every button has a POWER..or Possitive side. When the 2 "ground,possitive" connect that makes the circuit complete. |
Actually that is a misnomer, really. One side is ground, and the other side is "signal". Inside the controller chip is a resistor that weakly connects signal to the POWER of the controller (the voltage supply), so that signal remains at positive level. But, since it is only "pulled up" by a resistor (that is appropriately called a pull-up resistor), you can easily connect SIGNAL to ground and force it to ground (the resistor is much weaker than a direct connection, so SIGNAL goes low). The controller detects this, and flags a button press. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
mgrosh Basic Member
Joined: 29 Jul 2005
|
4637. Posted: Thu Aug 04, 2005 1:54 pm Post subject: |
|
|
edited i had a long post but marcan answered it better... do BELETED |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Paramount X Trick Member
Joined: 15 Jun 2005
|
4638. Posted: Thu Aug 04, 2005 3:37 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Um....... |
|
Back to top |
|
|
slvrshdw Trick Member
Joined: 05 Jan 2005
|
4639. Posted: Fri Aug 05, 2005 7:13 am Post subject: |
|
|
to simplify those answers..
(im guessing your still confused..)
(im just gonna say it in a simple circuit for comparison...)
basically there is ONE spot that ALL the wiring/switches that acts as one "wire" (common/ground)
the other "wires" are for like, left arrow, right arrow, X, O...
so then the "left arrow" would make connection with the COMMON/GROUND, it completes the circuit and registers...
MY PICTURE THING DIDNT WORK
so when the common wire hits the ONE of the other wires, it completes the circuit...
hopefully thats simpler.. _________________
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
|