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My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)
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Synaesthesia
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4560. PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2005 6:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's an interesting little problem for a new page. If I so much as move the controller a centimeter, it acts as though it's not connected. It seems it only wants to work in certain positions (I have a shoe bracing in in position for now). I've noticed it'll disconnect mid-song in high step densities like Infection Expert (1/16 machine guns @ 170 BPM) or VerTex Expert (1/8 constant death runs @ (mostly) 250 BPM), but not other, simpler patterns (the 1/16 m.g.'s @ 200 BPM in Disconnected Expert). I can't tell if the pad is moving and bumping the controller (it shouldn't--the whole thing sits on anti-sliding mesh stuff) or if the controller is weirded out by so many steps. Might the controller's strange preference for position be related to my earlier problem of electromagnetic interference? If it isn't, then I'm more perplexed than before...
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actjksn
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4561. PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2005 11:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've got a question for Stoli or anyone who has built his pad...

I'm getting ready to build the pad following the design on Stoli's page, but one of the things that I've been wondering about is, are the stationary panels all glued down using the 3M adhesive? Including the center panel? Because I'm curious how I'd be able to do any repair work on the cables under it if I had to. Ummm...that and just a question about the wiring, is the wiring for the switch pads (UP,DOWN,LEFT,RIGHT) done using one CAT 5 cable, and then the XO switch panels with a telephone cable?

thanks! E1.gif
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4562. PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2005 12:04 pm    Post subject: Can't resist...pun.... Reply with quote

Synaesthesia wrote:
Here's an interesting little problem for a new page. If I so much as move the controller a centimeter, it acts as though it's not connected.


Are you telling me that "The pad that you have made...O...M...G...has been disconnected...O...M...G?" riiight.gif

Synaesthesia wrote:
It seems it only wants to work in certain positions (I have a shoe bracing in in position for now). I've noticed it'll disconnect mid-song in high step densities like Infection Expert (1/16 machine guns @ 170 BPM) or VerTex Expert (1/8 constant death runs @ (mostly) 250 BPM), but not other, simpler patterns (the 1/16 m.g.'s @ 200 BPM in Disconnected Expert). I can't tell if the pad is moving and bumping the controller (it shouldn't--the whole thing sits on anti-sliding mesh stuff) or if the controller is weirded out by so many steps. Might the controller's strange preference for position be related to my earlier problem of electromagnetic interference? If it isn't, then I'm more perplexed than before...


Um...honestly I'd say that you've got a loose wire in there somewhere. Controllers these days can't really get weirded out - playing Point Blank or Track & Field, I've pressed buttons at a constant rate of about seven times a second for 15-20 seconds, and no disconnects. Since it only disconnects when you move the pad, I'd say it's some kind of loose or frayed wire. Otherwise...well...I dunno what it could be, I can't remember what sort of pad you built.

Good luck solving your controller conumdrum!
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4563. PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2005 2:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey geckoinc99, any updates? im eager =p
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stupidbarber
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4564. PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2005 3:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

actjksn wrote:

are the stationary panels all glued down using the 3M adhesive? Including the center panel? Because I'm curious how I'd be able to do any repair work on the cables under it if I had to. Ummm...that and just a question about the wiring, is the wiring for the switch pads (UP,DOWN,LEFT,RIGHT) done using one CAT 5 cable, and then the XO switch panels with a telephone cable?

thanks! E1.gif


You could do it either way. It's unlikely you will need to get to the wires again. However, I'm like you, I wanted to keep them accessible if needed. I used screws, not glue. In fact, I screwed them in from the bottom, to keep them looking nice from the top side.

As for the cable, I used a single CAT5 cable for all switches (only need 7 wires, one common and one each for up, down, left, right, X, O) and there are 8 wires in a CAT5.
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4565. PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2005 5:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
You could do it either way. It's unlikely you will need to get to the wires again. However, I'm like you, I wanted to keep them accessible if needed. I used screws, not glue. In fact, I screwed them in from the bottom, to keep them looking nice from the top side.

As for the cable, I used a single CAT5 cable for all switches (only need 7 wires, one common and one each for up, down, left, right, X, O) and there are 8 wires in a CAT5.


Yeah, I'm familiar with CAT 5s because I make network cables from time to time. so...in otherwords, one wire will have to be spliced so that it can act as the common for all the switches? and hey, if you made the canals for the cat5, did you use a router to do it?
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NiGHTS Chao
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4566. PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2005 6:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote



Lookie (^^)
Plays awesome
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4567. PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2005 6:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kewl. I want to by a very shiny metal. ^^ Did you use the same metal that was suggested. Cause I want mines to stay shiny and not scratch
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4568. PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2005 7:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice arrow graphics. Are the arrows and non-arrows the same height? Also, do you play bare-footed? I think I see footprints all over the metal... E15.gif
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4569. PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2005 7:09 pm    Post subject: How does the pad absorb the shock Reply with quote

Got a question about absorbtion/shock.. How does the pad absorb the shock.. Also I want to put springs so.. is that a good idea
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4570. PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2005 7:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Synaesthesia wrote:
Nice arrow graphics. Are the arrows and non-arrows the same height? Also, do you play bare-footed? I think I see footprints all over the metal... E15.gif

yeah bare-foot (^^') dont want to slip with socks and to noisy with shoes

yeah its flush with arrows and the metal even stepping on the brackets/screws doesnt hurt
(^^) Thank you, I drew the graphics myself then re-drew them in Photodraw (microsoft) and added the red and blue parts
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4571. PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2005 7:44 pm    Post subject: Working on it Reply with quote

Dem0nic,
I just got my pieces in (shipping took awhile). I'm going to breadboard tomorrow and see what happens. I'll post my findings as soon as possible. (Trust me, I'm anxious myself).

Synaesthesia,
It sounds very much like you have a loose wire. I would first check on all your solder connections. Pull on the wire some. If the connection is good it won't come off. If it does, then you found your problem. Since the whole thing acts like it went bad (full pad quits working), it's most likely a problem with your common wire. Otherwise, you would just loose connection with one or two arrows. Check it first. Make sure there are no breaks in your wires. If you have a multimeter handy, it might help in figuring it out. Good luck.

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4572. PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2005 8:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

geckoinc99 - of note, that circuit won't work reliably unless you find somewhere to tie the two circuits together for reference. good luck with the LEDs, I've been stumbling through solutions for a while now, I'm hoping to get it done soon on a complete board (replace the controller) as I posted a few pages back. We'll see how it goes for both of us, but yeah, without a tie in, the base of that transistor won't have a reference point happy.gif
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Synaesthesia
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4573. PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2005 8:16 am    Post subject: Re: Can't resist...pun.... Reply with quote

Heffenfeffer wrote:
Are you telling me that "The pad that you have made...O...M...G...has been disconnected...O...M...G?" riiight.gif


laugh.gif

All the wires that are inside the pad themselves are secured in place, so they're not going anywhere. All the wires connected to the controller hold in place when slightly tugged, so I couldn't find a loose connection there. I'm going to attempt to build a small mount for the controller to completely restrict its motion, which ought to fix the problem. (I got one of my friends to flail on the pad as fast as he could so I could see if the controller might get bumped; there was enough motion of the pad that a controller-bump is quite possible. So, I may not know the *exact* source of the random disconnects, but I should at least be able to prevent them.)

PS: some of the d/c's might be due to static buildup, as I realize it would sometimes happen if I played a lot of hard songs in a row w/o hands or anything else to ground myself out. That problem was easily fixed by touching the areas of the pad with one hand, while touching the metal car frame with the other, then disconnecting and re-inserting the cable plug.
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4574. PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2005 4:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

actjksn wrote:
I've got a question for Stoli or anyone who has built his pad...

I'm getting ready to build the pad following the design on Stoli's page, but one of the things that I've been wondering about is, are the stationary panels all glued down using the 3M adhesive? Including the center panel? Because I'm curious how I'd be able to do any repair work on the cables under it if I had to.


All stationary panels are attached with screws from from bottom of the pad, so you can completely disassemble it if you want to.

actjksn wrote:

Ummm...that and just a question about the wiring, is the wiring for the switch pads (UP,DOWN,LEFT,RIGHT) done using one CAT 5 cable, and then the XO switch panels with a telephone cable?


I used the telephone wire inside the controller and the cat 5 for everything else. Technically, you could do the whole thing with cat 5, but I found that the telephone wire was easier to work with in the tight confines of the controller that I used. Other controllers might have more room and the cat 5 might be easier to use throughout (no splicing required). You can see where I spliced the cat 5 with the telephone wire in the "final steps" section of my site.

-Stoli
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4575. PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2005 6:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

stoli wrote:
actjksn wrote:
I've got a question for Stoli or anyone who has built his pad...

I'm getting ready to build the pad following the design on Stoli's page, but one of the things that I've been wondering about is, are the stationary panels all glued down using the 3M adhesive? Including the center panel? Because I'm curious how I'd be able to do any repair work on the cables under it if I had to.


All stationary panels are attached with screws from from bottom of the pad, so you can completely disassemble it if you want to.

actjksn wrote:

Ummm...that and just a question about the wiring, is the wiring for the switch pads (UP,DOWN,LEFT,RIGHT) done using one CAT 5 cable, and then the XO switch panels with a telephone cable?


I used the telephone wire inside the controller and the cat 5 for everything else. Technically, you could do the whole thing with cat 5, but I found that the telephone wire was easier to work with in the tight confines of the controller that I used. Other controllers might have more room and the cat 5 might be easier to use throughout (no splicing required). You can see where I spliced the cat 5 with the telephone wire in the "final steps" section of my site.

-Stoli


Awesome! that helps a lot, I guess the last question I have, is there anyway around using a router? Because that's the one tool that I don't own and am kind of apprehensive about spending the money on it...and if I did someone get one, do I need a routing table? Thanks Stoli!
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4576. PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2005 7:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are a couple of ways to get around using a router, depending on what tools you have available. You can use a table saw if you have one and lower the blade down to the depth you want it to cut, or do the same thing with a circular saw. And if you get a router, no you dont need a table ^-^
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4577. PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2005 8:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmmm..I see what you're saying, but if I get the router, how will it make a straight line? Is it fairly easy to control? Or would I have to use something as a guide for a straight line. Anyway, by circular saw...you mean a radial saw and not say a jigsaw right?
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4578. PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2005 9:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't go out and buy a router. There was some discussion on this very subject in this forum a few pages ago. You might find an answer to your question if you go back and check it out.

-Stoli
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4579. PostPosted: Wed Jul 27, 2005 10:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am a big person. So I want to know what should I get to reinforce the pad. I mean should I also put in shocks. Will the plexi glass support. Is shocks a bad idea........Also what is the weather strip for.
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