My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)

HitokiriX · Trick Member Joined: 27 Mar 2004 Location: Berwyn, PA

Stupidbarber: Do you think it would work if I just bought like a 1/16 in. dense foam mat and glued it to my wood base? Would it soften the sound? I plan on building arrows with the corner braces so using a 1/2" rubber mat takes up just a little too much space.

kalakaflaca · Basic Member Joined: 06 Sep 2004

Thank you Synaesthesia for your advice...I found plans to build a Pump it up... http://www.pumptheprex.net/tutoriales/tutopete.htm ..but in Spanish..maybe it was translated from English..I tried also on this site ....http://www.pumpxtreme.net/forums/profile.php?mode=register ..but it seems down..this PIU is for PCÂ´s and this guy use a ordinary chip keybord like a control...I donÂ´t see nothing about to connect a PS2 control...buiding a PIU is becoming difficult to me since I donÂ´t find much info...I think the only think I need to know is were the wires are solded to the PS2 control..I guess I have to try testing the 4 arrows to X O ^ and square for the cornes and the center to Start...
LetÂ´s see..
If any understand little spanish plese let me know..
Hasta la vista amigos!..

Synaesthesia · Posted: Tue Jul 05, 2005 2:15 pm Post subject:

If you want to translate that page, you could use a translator like Babelfish to do it. The reason you're seeing instructions on how to solder to a PC keyboard chip is because PIU has seen several releases to computer, but only 1 to PS2. Judging from the linked site's design, it seems to use the exact same circuit completion method as the PIU arcade sensors (and, by extension, DDR's sensors). In regards to the PS2 solder points, I doubt anyone knows, since the game hasn't been released yet. It may use shoulder buttons, it may use the shape buttons, you might be able to map your own controls. If you wanted to begin physical construction of the pad, that could be done, and save the soldering for last (once the game is actually released). Really, the basic constructions of components will remain the same, whether you follow the linked instructions, or use Stoli's/DDRHP's design. The link gave you the proper dimensions for the pad layout. The linked instructions may let you use less material (particularly in regards to the metal used for contacts). If you want to play both PIU and DDR/ITG, you might want to go for a Cobalt Flux-styled pad (with interchangeable pieces, though from looking at the link, the dimensions will be wrong for PIU, though still functional).
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stupidbarber · Trick Member Joined: 28 Feb 2005

HitokiriX,

Hmm, I can't help you, there, I'm afraid. I just don't know. It seems like it could be worth a try. I think, though, that the lighter (less massive) you can make the top part of the switch, the better.

Good luck!

HitokiriX · Trick Member Joined: 27 Mar 2004 Location: Berwyn, PA

slvrshdw · Trick Member Joined: 05 Jan 2005

ive been gone a week, a couple pages to read..

nice pads guys

i finally tried PIU for the first time and i HATE IT!

man, if thats the only machine u have vs ddr, then thats fine i guess
but if u have a choice

i just cant believe that they basically had the "A" song clone

anyway, i know its possible to make the pad but when no games are out for it now, why bother?
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stickfigureman3 · Trick Member Joined: 24 Jan 2005 Location: Redmond, WA

I think I've gotten what I want my basic design to be for my pad (remove corner buttons and replace with metal, build a Sinistar-esque control box, and recess the arrows and use 1" screws), but now I have just one more question: Is there any way to make the borders more narrow (to fit arcade specs)? If I make a second pad in the future for doubles, I'm not sure I want to leave off a border. Thanks!
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stupidbarber · Trick Member Joined: 28 Feb 2005

My newly finished pad!

Many thanks to all of the helpful people here, including Synaesthesia, slvrshdw, and others, and especially Stoli for the outstanding design instructions.

Synaesthesia · Posted: Sat Jul 09, 2005 5:48 pm Post subject:

Ooh, shiny varnish...

I'd almost hate to play on that with shoes, but I can only imagine the kind of slipping I'd do with socks. Did the lack of metal on the non-arrows make a significant difference in price?
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kalakaflaca · Basic Member Joined: 06 Sep 2004

About maping arrows for PIU I found this:
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The game can be played with the included soft dancing controller or any common Dual Shock 2â¢ controller. Pump it Up is played with basically 5 buttons (compared to Konami's 4 button DDR series): UPPER LEFT, UPPER RIGHT, DOWN LEFT, DOWN RIGHT and a CENTER button. Using a Dual Shock 2â¢ controller, the arrows revert to the L1 (upper left), L2 (down left), R1 (upper right), R2 (down right) and X (center) buttons. It might sound a little confusing for DDR enthusiasts, but trust us you will find into it in just no time.
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If this pattern is correct, we can solder wires like DDR..I think..
To play korean version on American PS2 I think this can be solved using Swap Magic Disc and slidecard...
Any working on this project please post your progress...Thank you...

Synaesthesia · Posted: Sat Jul 09, 2005 6:47 pm Post subject:

If the American release will retain the shoulder-button mapping, then you will just have to use the shoulder button solder points (and X, of course, for center). I didn't look closely at those, so I don't know if it's an easier or harder job soldering the shoulder contacts.
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kalakaflaca · Basic Member Joined: 06 Sep 2004

Yes, you right..I checked my PS control to see how shoulder buttons go..hummm..on my opinion I donÂ´t see big difference on soldering points to ddr buttons...circuit to solder is almost same ---I think the most important thing is to do a very good job on soldering..course, if American release keep the same..
Any ideas on piu home pad are very welcome!!

kalakaflaca · Basic Member Joined: 06 Sep 2004

IÂ´m looking closely shoulder buttons on my PS control.. it look much easier to solder to the others..a drop of solder enough to solder the wires..letÂ´s see...

Ravenwing · Trick Member Joined: 22 Jun 2003 Location: Leavenworth, KS

Very classy, stupidbarber! Out of curiousity, how big did you cut your stationary squares, since you didn't use any sheet metal?
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stupidbarber · Trick Member Joined: 28 Feb 2005

It was a little cheaper to leave off the metal covering. I think probably saved about $20 or so. One 32 oz can of Minwax Polyshades Satin Cedar was $7, and was way more than I needed, so will still be good for the second pad I'm working on now. I put on three coats, and it doesn't feel slippery with bare feet, but I haven't tried socks yet. It feels a lot like a hardwood floor (like a dance studio! Get it?) I think it also makes the pad lighter - it's still heavy, though.

Sizes for the panels - all lexan and wood were initially cut to 10 and 7/8ths, and the base is 32 and 3/4. After my initial failures, I was most concerned about the action of the switches, so I put them on first, this time. You might be able to see that I had to Dremel off the inside corners a little bit to get them to fit comfortably. Once I was happy with the switches, I put in the stationary pads, which were a bit too big. So each one was custom fitted, by removing approximately 1/32 inch or so from a side using a table saw. The stationary pads are just slightly higher than the switches (which is what I wanted), so I beveled their edges with a small sander so no sharp edges for the feet

slvrshdw · Trick Member Joined: 05 Jan 2005

whoa...nice pad

i dont think ive seen one without the sheet metal on top, but that really looks awesome

u used stoli's designs...i wish i would have been able to make mine so it wasnt like 3 1/2" off the ground, and HEAVY..

but i just never had any luck with the "smaller" design

btw...i like ur arrows, very cool

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tolookah · Posted: Sun Jul 10, 2005 2:02 pm Post subject:

Hey everyone,

I am about to start work on another Pads electronic design (Lighting for the pad) and decided to hop back around on the thread to see whats going on. I must say, that is a slick looking pad barber, worth showing off. The wood under the arrows makes for a nice touch.

alright, back to lurk mode and to figure out how i will do these lights under the arrows
*lurks*
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Aim: Tolookah
MSN: Tolookah
XBox: Tolookah
DDRPad Soldering and electrical Help: http://www.tolookah.net/DDR/ As hooded_paladin put it: "Currently, help for Beatpad Pro, official Sony Playstation Controller and ANY controller unless you are extremely stupid or lazy."

Ulala321 · Trick Member Joined: 28 Sep 2004

Nice lookin' pad ya got there. I like your arrows especially.

deM' · Trick Member Joined: 10 Apr 2005 Location: Southington CT

tolookah There is a really simple way to add lights to your pad, using dual 4inch cathodes under each button. if its gonna be used with ps2, you will need an external power supply, so theres 2 options, use an old psu from a pc and grab the 12v line, or get a 12v DC adapter and plug it into your wall. Your going to need a transistor (http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F011%5F002%5F017%5F000&product%5Fid=276%2D1617)

for each button, wire the transistor's emitter to the signal circuits ground in series, and its base to the other end. Wire the lamps +12 to the +12 of your psu, or adapter, and its ground to the collector of the transitor.

When the circuit between the base and the emitter is live, it will allow the circuit between the emitter and collector to flow, connecting the lamps +12 to ground, lighting it up.

This is even easier with a pc, as all you have to do is snag a 12v line (yellow on the molex) and connect the lights to that =p

By the way, the three lines is ground, the ground of your controller, and the +5 is the signal of each button =p

tolookah · Posted: Mon Jul 11, 2005 6:00 pm Post subject:

Thanks for the circuit, but I'm going to use an external 5V supply to run diodes controlled by a microprocessor i think, It will take three chips, and I can do special lighting modes with it (and it won't need the 5V to run without the lights, also can be set) it'll protect the playstation controller from any static that may pop up as well by seperating it ( also give it a 0.5us lag )
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Aim: Tolookah
MSN: Tolookah
XBox: Tolookah
DDRPad Soldering and electrical Help: http://www.tolookah.net/DDR/ As hooded_paladin put it: "Currently, help for Beatpad Pro, official Sony Playstation Controller and ANY controller unless you are extremely stupid or lazy."