My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)

Aflac · Trick Member Joined: 28 Mar 2005

what's the difference between metal flashing, aluminum flashing and sheet metal? and do the gauges really matter?

mikieson · Trick Member Joined: 14 Nov 2003

Im wondering the same as well?? I used some aluminum flashing for my contacts. If it dont carry a current as well as other metals than that would explain my problems.
Anyone know for sure????

slvrshdw · Trick Member Joined: 05 Jan 2005

t3h 3d · Trick Member Joined: 17 Jun 2004

Synaesthesia · Posted: Sat May 21, 2005 7:18 pm Post subject:

I'm approximately halfway through construction of my pad (loosely following the ddrhomepad design as a template). I'm almost done cutting the Lexan pieces to fit underneath the brackets, though my question(s) pertain(s) to the electrical aspects. First, how often do the wires come loose on the pads which you have built, and is there any way to limit the number of times this occurs? Second, I realize static electricity is a big killer. With regards to the controller, is there anything that should be considered for static buildup as you are playing? From what I've read, it also seems that static charge tends to accrue on the 5 metal panels. Should I take any extra precautions other than tapping my hand against it after each song to ground it? Finally, what is the average length of the soldered wires on your respective pads? I'd like to know, so as to prevent the circuit board from trying to draw too much current.

Tenesu · Basic Member Joined: 05 Feb 2004

Synaesthesia · Posted: Sun May 22, 2005 7:31 am Post subject:

Ok, maybe I was worried about the wrong thing (or just tired--it was late). I'm probably more worried about the increased potential difference. (Unrealistic example: Potential difference between the controller and the PS2 is 6 volts, given 3 amperes of current and 2 ohms of resistance. Addition of the wires for the pad increases the resistance to 6 ohms, so now the voltage is 18 volts.) The higher potential difference would probably be what fries the controller, would it not? If anyone has any product specs of the average Dualshock controller (normal current flow, resistance, etc.), that would be very helpful to me, too.

Tenesu · Basic Member Joined: 05 Feb 2004

stoli · Trick Member Joined: 27 Mar 2005 Location: Southern NH

Klott · Trick Member Joined: 15 Apr 2005

I agree with stoli. Also you need to take shipping into account. Just make your own. Its not that hard, unless you are ten or so. Then get your dad to make it.

About the hardwood floors. Just carpenter glue pieces of carpet to the underside of the pad. I put one in each corner, under each arrow and one in the middle. Works fine

I forgot to say this, but my pad came out really cheap for me. Earlier I posted saying that I was going to be as cheap as I could be, and I kept true to my word. 90 dollars was the budget for my pad. However, I did not have to buy the plywood... which is 30-40 bucks right there. But if you have a workshop in the basement/garage, then it'll be easier.

Im really happy. I have a red octane ignition 2.0 which I bought for 115 dollars and which glitches A LOT. and with my pad, if anything goes wrong, I can fix it right up, since I know what can be wrong and all.

So yeah. 90 dollars.

Synaesthesia · Posted: Sun May 22, 2005 3:21 pm Post subject:

I think I've spent $117 so far. I didn't have any material lying around, either (unless you count things like duct tape). Much of the material I'm using is heavy-duty stuff, too, such as a 3/4" MDF baseboard (just melamine like the CF, except melamine usually has some white paper stuff on it). Unfortunately, the slabs of MDF were only 32" across, and I need 33." So, I cut 2 1" strips from the excess MDF, 16" long. My plan is to use a biscuit joint to hold them all together. I finished getting all the pieces of Lexan cut to fit today (hacksaw is great for small cuts). I have a question involving the spacing between the contacts, since that's not very far off. On ddrhomepad's website, it says that the weatherstripping/foam core compress to 1/16." My question is, is that an appropriate separation, or should it be a little more? (The main concern I hold is that if it compresses too much, a small part of a contact could end up permenantly completing the circuit.) Canceling out the 3/4" wood rails (since they appear on both arrow and non-arrow), I have 5/8" (10/16") gap between the bottom piece of Lexan, and the rails. I plan to use 3 pieces of pegboard stacked on top of each other (each piece is 3/16") to sit upon the rails (screwed down, of course) and for which the bottom contact will sit upon, leaving about 1/16." (I didn't bother to count the thickness of the 26 guage metal in my calculations). Will that 1/16" leftover (which becomes the compressed foam, in case I lost you) be too little space, or will it be good?

DDRNemesis · Trick Member Joined: 10 Jun 2004 Location: Bryan, OH

I'm thinking about making 2 pads for home and I just wondered if there is instructions for a pad to make it as arcade like as possible. I mean dimensions the same, height the same, a bar, and the sensors.
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Synaesthesia · Posted: Sun May 22, 2005 3:44 pm Post subject:

Something else to which I expect to know the answer but will ask anyway: does building a highly-sensitive pad (or buying something like a CF) actually cause you to get drastically higher scores? I mean, I keep reading comments about people saying things like, "Wow! I only used this pad for 5 minutes and I can already AA MAXx Unlimited. Yesterday I could only get a B on PARANOiA KCET," or something to that effect. Were these people good enough to do that before they got the pad, or did a high-quality pad suddenly begin registering even the tiniest of their step vibrations so that they had to use a lot less effort, or something? As someone who can lame his way through about 40 Catas (bag on 3x is only 10-footer), getting mostly Bs and Cs, do I have something more to look forward to other than completing an incredibly durable pad?

I play css naked · Trick Member Joined: 23 Apr 2005

Im very curious about everyone elses opinion, and i want to know whether u think the metal pad (the link is in my signature) is worth 499.99 + s&h.
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slvrshdw · Trick Member Joined: 05 Jan 2005

Synaesthesia · Posted: Sun May 22, 2005 4:30 pm Post subject:

I can't say for sure, because it's just a bunch of pictures. There aren't any technical specs to differentiate it from other pads. If that $500 is for both, that might be all right, assuming they're of high quality (CF-type, or something great by RO, I don't know....). If it's only for one pad, I have to ask why it's so much better than a $300 CF. Looks are nice, but I'd rather have perfectly functioning pad that only looks a small fraction as nice as the $500 pad does. But if the pad works like a charm, and you've got the money to kick around, then go for it. If you wanted a sure-fire pad, you could buy a CF. If you wanted a nigh-sure-fire pad, you could build one yourself for much lower cost. (If it ever stops working, the idea is that you can fix it yourself.)

Heffenfeffer · Trick Member Joined: 22 Apr 2002 Location: Las Cruces, NM

mikieson · Trick Member Joined: 14 Nov 2003

Well I dont know about anyone else here. But I built my pads not to be cheaper but because I know how they are built and what materials are used and for the simple fact of the satisfaction of doing something myself. I dont care if they cost 1000.00 as long as they work. Look good, and make me happy. If CobaltFlux could convince me that their pads are better quality and will work better then I "might" would buy one. Untill then I will continue to build my own.......JMHO

t3h 3d · Trick Member Joined: 17 Jun 2004

zambi · Basic Member Joined: 04 Jul 2004

I've been wondering, how do you ensure that the brackets are flat with the top of the non-arrow panels? do it upside down on a smooth flat surface?