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slvrshdw
Trick Member
Joined: 05 Jan 2005
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4080.  Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2005 12:10 pm Post subject: |
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ok fine, ill change my site color..  i just liked the look of it..
and u cheater on your site..  
the only reason im on angelfire to begin with is that
1. its free
2. idk the html yet..once i get a lil better ill switch
3. i dont have an account under my ISP yet(im pretty sure i get like a gig of space too!!)..i'll get one soon though since your all comlpaining about it  
(i wanting to do that anyway)
now back to the ddr pad..
i cant say for stoli, but i used spray adhesive because its super strong, and easy to apply
and i was thinking about the squishy foam stuff for the return on the arrows
i got some marine foam insulation (1/2" thick?) but im going to have to cut it in 1/2 so its not so big
my pad now is TOO easy to register..
how much force do u like to have be put on in order for it to register?
i thought that my hand would be good, but thats WAY TOO sensitive..or for me anyway..
i guess ill just stop on my angelfire and wait for my ISP one then..angelfire will still be up so people can get a *little* help from it tho 
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stoli
Trick Member
Joined: 27 Mar 2005
Location: Southern NH |
| 4081. Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2005 12:14 pm Post subject: |
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| steve771 wrote: | | Stoli, in step 8 of your switch explanation, you use spray adhesive. Is there any reason you didn't use contact cement for that step (just off hand, I would think it would bond better, so that's the reason for the question). Thanks! |
When I first wrote the directions on my site, I used the terms "contact cement" and "spray adhesive" interchangeably, but was referring to the same thing (3M Super 77 spray adhesive). I have since changed it when I read some of the discussions about what to use - Sorry if that caused any confusion. I consider the 3M Super 77 a form of contact cement which is sprayed on as opposed to the type that is applied with a brush. I can't say if one is stronger than the other. I do know that there are some lesser strength sprays out there that would probably not be suitable, but I find the 3M to be quite adequate and probably just as strong as contact cement from a can.
Pricewise, I don't know which is cheaper but I can tell you that if used as directed, the large can of 3M is just the right amount to build a pad like mine. I think the cost for the large can was just under $9 at Home Depot.
I used the spray because in my opinion it is easier to apply.
-Stoli
Edit: One more note on the 3M. My local Home Depot carried 2 types, the Super 77 which comes in a red can and another type in a green can. The green can is more expensive which leads you to think that it is stronger, but I'm not so sure. When I was shopping for it, I read the labels on both and came to the conclusion that the green stuff was made for rubber (and some other material) while the Super 77 label specifically said that it was for bonding wood, metal and plastic. Based on that, I went with the 77 because my pad is made of: you guessed it (wood, metal and plastic). I know I have seen another pad builder's site that used the green can. It may in fact be stronger but I suggest you read the labels and decide for yourself.
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stoli
Trick Member
Joined: 27 Mar 2005
Location: Southern NH |
| 4082. Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2005 1:02 pm Post subject: |
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| xoxoRenegadexoxo wrote: | | would i have to go to a print shop to print my arrows off if i dont have a big enough printer? |
In general, the arrow pads are 11" x 11" and the biggest you are going to get off a standard printer is about 8" x 10.5". So, if you want one piece graphics that fill the entire arrow pad, you will need to go to a print shop. Kinkos has a 17" x 12" glossy cardstock for about $3 per print. Their 11" x 17" is significantly less but there is a 1/4" border so it can't quite get you to the full 11" x 11" but is pretty close. I splurged on the 17" x 12", but it looks like most guys go with the 11" x 17". If you want to cut costs and know your way around a graphics editor (like photoshop) then print your graphics in 2 parts on your home printer and splice them.
| xoxoRenegadexoxo wrote: | | What is the width of the "handle" bar on the back of the dance pad? |
No idea.
| xoxoRenegadexoxo wrote: | | What is the best plexi/lexan material to use on top of the arrows? |
Lots of discussion on this topic in the last few pages of this thread. Personally, I think the mid-grade Acrylic at Home Depot (blue colored protective coating), also referred to as Lucite, is a good choice. Total cost for 1 pad is about $21 (if used above and below the graphics on a 6 button pad) and it is well suited for this application.
| xoxoRenegadexoxo wrote: | | About how much would the average homemade metal dance pad cost? |
$100
| xoxoRenegadexoxo wrote: | | Could somebody e-mial or AIM me Riptides instruction videos? |
Can't help you here.
-Stoli
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Klott
Trick Member
Joined: 15 Apr 2005
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| 4083. Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2005 1:40 pm Post subject: |
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woah stoli... 21 dollars for 12 11X11" pieces of lucite? That seems a lot underpriced... At my HomeDepot, I calculated 34 for just 4 buttons.
And im sure i was looking at the lucite. Maybe different HDs have different prices?
My dad found some lucite in the garage, enough for 3 arrows, so my costs dropped just a bit. I asked this before, but what is the best way to cut the plexi? Stoli, you said you used a 60 tooth blade, but is there any other good ways out there?
KLott |
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stoli
Trick Member
Joined: 27 Mar 2005
Location: Southern NH |
| 4084. Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2005 2:00 pm Post subject: |
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| Klott wrote: | | woah stoli... 21 dollars for 12 11X11" pieces of lucite? That seems a lot underpriced... KLott |
Yup! 3' x 4' mid grade, blue coated = $21
The top grade stuff was a lot more - twice as much maybe? They also screw you on the quantities sometimes. For instance, I found the sheet metal at HomeDepot for $5 per square foot when you buy a 1' x 2' piece, yet the same stuff is less than $1 per square foot in another aisle of the store and sold in 2' x 4' pieces.
No doubt about the Lucite though. Got all 12 pieces out of 1 sheet and had a few inches left over. Cutting it with a table saw is a mess but probably the quickest way.
-Stoli
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slvrshdw
Trick Member
Joined: 05 Jan 2005
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| 4085. Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2005 2:01 pm Post subject: |
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ya..that $21 seems cheap..
i got a 2' by 4' for i think 30 and it was REALLY thin..im pretty sure it was lucite too
yes!
i basically got my pad WORKING now..its just the freeze arrows dont work too well
i gotta make the buttons less sensitive,
add the other 2 screws in each arrow,
possibly add a border on the back/front,
and the other buttons, but when i connect the wires not all of them are working, so something may be wrong.. 
and now im looking into using mylinuxisp server domain name or whatever...i just gotta learn how to use that now
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stoli
Trick Member
Joined: 27 Mar 2005
Location: Southern NH |
| 4086. Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2005 2:15 pm Post subject: |
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Maybe I've been calling it the wrong name? I'm not sure where I associated the material I used with the word "Lucite", but I thought the mid grade was called Lucite and the top grade was called Lexan. I'm a bit confused now.
What I do know is that the stuff I used has the blue protective coating. The good stuff had a white coating and the cheap stuff was red. Thickness is .093" and it works perfectly. Flexes well, no cracks and seems to be very scuff resistant as well. 3' x 4' was $21.
I'd be more than happy to call it something other than Lucite is someone can tell me what the correct name is.
-Stoli
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slvrshdw
Trick Member
Joined: 05 Jan 2005
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| 4087. Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2005 2:26 pm Post subject: |
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wrong name?..maybe
i might be calling it wrong too, but i think i got the .093" too, but u used 2 pieces on each arrow?
i just used a 1/2" plywood then graphic then .093" lucite/plex/whatever it was
i guess it could be the prices too
i kno that aluminum tubing is cheaper at home depot than lowes..or is that the other way around but ya (different project)
and im just wondering if anyone else has done a wireless pad or not?
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Klott
Trick Member
Joined: 15 Apr 2005
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| 4088. Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2005 3:13 pm Post subject: |
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white... wasnt that the hobby plastic?
Then blue, Red and the Lexan which i forgot the color of...
Im going to HD again this weekend to finish the pad (buy the plexi)
So I'll report back when im back
I almost done! I had the whole last week off due to summer break, so spent a lot of time on it then. The only thing left are the arrows and the soldering to the controller.
Will post sum up soon |
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steve771
Trick Member
Joined: 03 Mar 2005
Location: Nevada |
| 4089. Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2005 3:39 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks Stoli, I had the canned contact cement and wanted to be sure it was ok. As far as the wood pieces on the bottom part of the switch pads, I found that getting the 1/8" and 1/4" hardboard and then bonding them was the best bet. I was looking for some sort of material that would be 3/8" but plywood wasn't flat enough and I didn't see anything else. Just thought I would report my findings on that.
I just bought the blue covered stuff and I think it was called acrylic. There's nothing on them but the UPC.
When it comes to the acrylic "sandwich" for the switch (acrylic plus graphic, plus acrylic), there isn't anything to bond this together, right? I mean, it is basically loose (except for the screws to hold it in position), right? Should they somehow?  |
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stoli
Trick Member
Joined: 27 Mar 2005
Location: Southern NH |
| 4090. Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2005 6:16 pm Post subject: |
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Steve -
Yup. The only thing that holds them together is the screws.
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xoxoRenegadexoxo
Trick Member
Joined: 11 Apr 2005
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| 4091. Posted: Tue Apr 26, 2005 6:19 pm Post subject: |
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| thanks to some of you guys who helped me out with the questions i had. Ive got an old DDR website that i am going to continue working on soon. I am probably going to start building my metal DDR pad this weekend after i get the garage gets cleaned out. I will buy a link for my digital to my computer so i can update all of you on what i have done. Heres my old DDR site. Nothin much, i only worked on it for about 3 days so dont expect a whole lot. www.kokomoddr.cjb.net |
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KitsuDeXstrosity
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Joined: 15 May 2004
Location: San Diego, CA |
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HitokiriX
Trick Member
Joined: 27 Mar 2004
Location: Berwyn, PA |
| 4093. Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2005 5:45 am Post subject: |
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| slvrshdw wrote: | | and im just wondering if anyone else has done a wireless pad or not? |
just from experience from wireless softpads, I don't think I would personally use a wireless control board for my metal pad. It just doesn't seem reliable enough to trust. It might work for a year or so, but after a while it might just like....die. Hopefully that won't happen to anyone who integrated a wireless controller into their pad, but you can't be too careful. And besides the regular pads give quite a long cord length. If you play DDR at a distance that's farther than the cord length is, chances are you will have a hard time reading the arrows well. |
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daitenshi
Trick Member
Joined: 11 May 2004
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| 4094. Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2005 6:09 am Post subject: |
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Two questions:
1.) I made an external control box for my pad, how long can the wires be from the circuit board to the pad without frying the controller?
2.) Would it be a bad idea to double wire O and X to one switch on the box? I'm thinking of doing that since X is American select and O is Japanese (and I play on both). |
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steve771
Trick Member
Joined: 03 Mar 2005
Location: Nevada |
| 4095. Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2005 9:04 am Post subject: |
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| In looking at pics of the upcoming Red Octane Afterburner pad, the most distinctive feature is that the switch pads are slightly below the stationary pads. Stoli, would you see a problem with doing that with your design? I mean, just not building up the bottom of the switch pad so much? And hey, if I haven't said thanks lately for all your help... THANKS! |
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xoxoRenegadexoxo
Trick Member
Joined: 11 Apr 2005
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| 4096. Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2005 10:23 am Post subject: |
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| 'homeDDRpad' said that you should have you wires for a regular home made pad at about 5 feet, but im not realy sure in that case. Im not sure about your other question. It might work, but id bw worrying about creating a spark or a short. |
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Heffenfeffer
Trick Member
Joined: 22 Apr 2002
Location: Las Cruces, NM |
| 4097. Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2005 11:15 am Post subject: RoXoR YoUr BoXoRs |
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| daitenshi wrote: | Two questions:
1.) I made an external control box for my pad, how long can the wires be from the circuit board to the pad without frying the controller?
2.) Would it be a bad idea to double wire O and X to one switch on the box? I'm thinking of doing that since X is American select and O is Japanese (and I play on both). |
1: Well, controller frying isn't really a problem - however if the wires are too long, you'll gradually get lag in since the signal has to go across more wire to the console. Of course, this isn't too much of a problem until you get to about 20 feet or so...
2: I'm kinda split on this. I suppose what you're doing is having a pushbutton on one end of the wire and soldering the other end to both X and O? In that case, pressing the pushbutton would activate X and O simultaneously. While I'm not too familiar with which button does what on the menus, I'm inclined to think that there will be some case somewhere where you'll both confirm and cancel at the same time - and which one occurs could be random. I'd say go with two buttons, or perhaps make start your single button - it seems pretty universal.
3: a4 f3q4f9q304ffj0fm2m30j330
(Sorry, I wasn't null-terminated.)
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"If something should happen to me, all the world's women will grieve!" - Edgar Rene Figaro
"Your charisma exceeds that of mortal men. Many would lay down their lives for you." - Fall-From-Grace |
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slvrshdw
Trick Member
Joined: 05 Jan 2005
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| 4098. Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2005 12:36 pm Post subject: |
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| Quote: | | It might work for a year or so, but after a while it might just like....die. |
well..for now for anyone starting on a new metal pad..DONT USE A WIRELESS!
ya, ive had SOO much trouble so far..
my pad was working just fine yesterday (except freeze arrows) and today its pretty bad..
so now i think i might just go ahead and buy another pad 
but for now, ill just *try* to fix whatever went wrong.. 
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daitenshi
Trick Member
Joined: 11 May 2004
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| 4099. Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2005 12:43 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks Heffenfeffer!
My wire's only like 5 feet or something so I guess I'm fine.  |
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