My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)

KitsuDeXstrosity · Trick Member Joined: 15 May 2004 Location: San Diego, CA

I'm still on my second pad using the DDRHomePad design still. Here are my experiences with plexi:

1) Lexan: Best stuff you could use. For the first pad I built, I used two layers of this (which put a pounding on my wallet), but it was well worth it. Since I'm a pretty heavy stomper and add the fact that I'm about 250 lbs, it holds up very well, and little to no scratches (although there is one huge one I accidently did with a jigsaw

). I've been using my home pad for about a year and a half now and no bending or anything. And as an added bonus, its easier to cut with a saw since its stronger (250 times stronger than glass

). At HD, its the green stuff and is about twice the price of Crystalite (11 x 14 sheet = $5-6).

2) Crystalite (aka Lucite I think?) : I'm using some of this for my second pad. It's cheaper: monetary-wise and durability-wise (to an extent). When I was cutting it with a jigsaw (really cheap, i know

) it tended to crack every now and then. So I decided to make the lower layer Lexan and the top layer Crystalite. Don't know if its me, but seems Crystalite is much more clear than Lexan, which shows the arrow much nicer. Also, I may be mistaken, but since it bends easier than Lexan, it did feel like the arrows were much more sensitive (considering I used the exact same amount of weatherstripping). At HD, its the blue stuff and is about half the price of Lexan (11 x 14 sheet = $2-3.)

3) Hobby Plexiglass: I don't really want to try it, but it is thicker and it is cheaper. According to the chart at HD, it's really for display cases I think.

Hope that helps.

(I'll put pics of my pad up sometime...anytime ^^).

-~-Evolved Spirit KitsuDeXstrosity

xoxoRenegadexoxo · Trick Member Joined: 11 Apr 2005

ive read alot about people having to use a PSX controller for the soldering. Well, i have an X-Box. Is this basically the same concept, only more expensive?

slvrshdw · Trick Member Joined: 05 Jan 2005

i have an xbox, i can help..

i tried using a $15 (mad catz?) controller that was broken (the circle thing was messed up)
and it worked for a lil bit, but then it broke; or i did something to it..i have no idea what exactly..possibly that static issue?

then i got a wireless ps2 mat for free, and a $10 converter and its working now

but if u just have to buy a controller NEW, then just go ahead and spend the like 5 bucks more for real dance mat..its SOOOOO much easier to solder, and its labeled..everything..
i wouldnt mess with the controller unless u are GOOD at soldering and have a broken one/one u dont need or something like that

just buy a real pad new or ask around if anyone has a broken xbox pad that u could use..thats how i got my ps2 one..now it can be dual system WIRELESS

altho i wouldnt really recommend spending the money on a wireless pad...the cords are NOT a big deal, if anything itll make it easier

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steve771 · Trick Member Joined: 03 Mar 2005 Location: Nevada

Heffenfeffer · Trick Member Joined: 22 Apr 2002 Location: Las Cruces, NM

slvrshdw · Trick Member Joined: 05 Jan 2005

ya its mr..altho im only 15

and its "silvershadow", but shortened=slvrshdw

i thought that mine might have broken from static electricity..

Shogun · Basic Member Joined: 02 Apr 2005

I'm having some real problems with my pad. I was hoping you guys could help me out. My pad is fully wired. I've tested all the connections and they all work great. My only problem is getting the connections to register when I step on a button.

I've used foam weatherstripping, mouse pads, I even tried springs and nothing is working. I'm using Chris's design so it works with the aluminum screen and the screws and washers. Either the foam is too wimpy and doesn't keep things separated or its too strong. The springs were binding up on the screws. Just one thing after another. If I can't get this thing working I'm going to cut my losses and buy an afterburner. Any help you guys can offer I appreciate.

xoxoRenegadexoxo · Trick Member Joined: 11 Apr 2005

ive got some questions:

would i have to go to a print shop to print my arrows off if i dont have a big enough printer?

What is the width of the "handle" bar on the back of the dance pad?

What is the best plexi/lexan material to use on top of the arrows?

About how much would the average homemade metal dance pad cost?

Could somebody e-mial or AIM me Riptides instruction videos?

that is all. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

xoxoRenegadexoxo · Trick Member Joined: 11 Apr 2005

EDIT: sorry....double post.

DDRNemesis · Trick Member Joined: 10 Jun 2004 Location: Bryan, OH

Could I use a controll box for Redoctanes metal pads for my homemade metal pad?
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xoxoRenegadexoxo · Trick Member Joined: 11 Apr 2005

Im pretty sure that it should work. Although, im not an expert. You should PM a cpouple of the smarter guys an get their direct advice.

Klott · Trick Member Joined: 15 Apr 2005

YEAHOo. I got my site up, and uploaded 5 pics. Im further than what I have there, but if anyone is curious, feel free to go there.

Also, Slvrshdw, take notes

http://home.simplecheck.net/iv/Klott/

slvrshdw · Trick Member Joined: 05 Jan 2005

take notes on what exactly..html?..i will dont worry

and um..what IS ur site...

DDRNemesis--i think thatll work, but i have no idea how the control boxes work, or anything..

i just looked into getting frontpage but it was *gasp* $200!!!
so thats a

(no)

if anyone needs help/pics just AIM me..i might be away but ill help ASAP..

time to give BACK to the forums..lol
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Ulala321 · Trick Member Joined: 28 Sep 2004

I noticed someone couldn't get Riptide's videos but was interested in seeing them. I have them all stored on my harddrive, so if you've got a fast enough internet connection, I'd be happy to AIM them your way. If anyone has any interest, just snag me sometime.. my sn is the same there as here.

stoli · Trick Member Joined: 27 Mar 2005 Location: Southern NH

Frontpage is, and always has been, garbage. I haven't checked lately but there used to be several free html editors out there that you could download. They didn't have many bells and wistles but they did the job.

-Stoli
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My Chrome Pad Website

Klott · Trick Member Joined: 15 Apr 2005

or you could just learn HTML your self... best way

sorry, I got excited and forgot to put the URL:
http://home.simplecheck.net/iv/Klott/

slvrshdw · Trick Member Joined: 05 Jan 2005

ulala- i IMed u

stoli- really?..ill look for those "free editors" or just learn html

klott- ok, fine so ur better at the web design..

but now i getta use urs for some of the html i may want to use..(if u dont mind that is

)

i deleted those blurry pics on my site..and made each one a thumbnail to the bigger one

now all i need is not make each lil pic on its own line...anyone know the html i need?
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Klott · Trick Member Joined: 15 Apr 2005

this wasnt really html... this is a prog that my dad found, sorta like RipTide's Photo Album. So i didnt write any of it.. So can not brag there..

Before we try to get back on topic, slvrshdw change the background color...
I read up on HTML and websites recently, and numerous sources state that if its black... it usually sux. So go with more neutral colors.. that are more pleasing to the eye.

Or dont. Not my website,

superfanthony · Posted: Mon Apr 25, 2005 9:06 pm Post subject:

Not to pile on you, slvrshdw, but...get off angelife, too. That site is the blurst. What ISP do you have? Most provide you with a little webspace and building utilites. I have Comcast, and you can upload like 25MB of stuff and build a web page for every user account (5 is the limit).

Back on topic, I found some really dense packing styrofoam material in the garbage at work. I am still in the salvaging/begging for materials stage, but I think that this stuff is going to work a lot better than the weather stripping. I know everyone swears by it, and I have no reason to really doubt you, but knowing how my fat friends and I play, I just cannot imagine the weather stripping lasting too long.

I am still a little unsure about the arrow panels and switches, though. Are the arrow panels "floating?" That is, are they only supported by what they sit on and kept in place by the corner brackets? Also, is it plausible to make the contacts in the middle of the arrow well, and not around the sides? Would that be less effective?

steve771 · Trick Member Joined: 03 Mar 2005 Location: Nevada

Stoli, in step 8 of your switch explanation, you use spray adhesive. Is there any reason you didn't use contact cement for that step (just off hand, I would think it would bond better, so that's the reason for the question). Thanks!