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My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)
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Syden
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4020. PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2005 4:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Sheet metal is simply metal formed into thin and flat pieces. It is one of the fundamental forms used in metalworking, and can be cut and bent into a variety of different shapes. Countless everyday objects are constructed of the material. Thicknesses can vary significantly, although extremely thin pieces of sheet metal would be considered to be foil or leaf instead.
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HitokiriX
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4021. PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2005 5:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Syden wrote:
Quote:
Sheet metal is simply metal formed into thin and flat pieces. It is one of the fundamental forms used in metalworking, and can be cut and bent into a variety of different shapes. Countless everyday objects are constructed of the material. Thicknesses can vary significantly, although extremely thin pieces of sheet metal would be considered to be foil or leaf instead.


*pops in* Hiya everyone! Hope everyone's pads are going well......now to add on to the sheet metal descrip.....

sheet metal can be made in a variety of different ways, forms, and sizes.

There is galvanized sheet metal, which is zinc mixed in with the aluminum or whatever is the majority of the material. This makes the sheet metal not rust and stuff....although it's not the best looking (speckled). There there's mirror like sheet metal, which just basically looks like a big mirror. Everything else is just like a sheet of metal. Like....a piece of metal as thin as paper (a lot sharper though!).

Sheet metal is all measured by gauges. 21 gauge, 26 gauge, and I believe 18 gauge are very popular sizes. The larger the number, the smaller the width I think.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Now that that's done....I have a question for all those people that have screws to keep the arrow panels secured compared to corner brackets:

don't the screws kinda pose as a thread to the feat if you step on them? I mean they won't bend...compared to the corner brackets where they're solid and have more surface area so it won't hurt your little featies if you stomp on them by accident.
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stoli
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4022. PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2005 8:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

HitokiriX wrote:
don't the screws kinda pose as a thread to the feat if you step on them? I mean they won't bend...compared to the corner brackets where they're solid and have more surface area so it won't hurt your little featies if you stomp on them by accident.


No problems so far. I suppose if you drove your barefoot heel directly down on one of the screws, it may smart a bit. The screws sit pretty flat on the Lucite, which is supported below the screw by a firm piece of rubber, so they don't protrude much. They are also tucked in the corner surrounded by the stationary panels which offer some protection as well.

-Stoli
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slvrshdw
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4023. PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2005 1:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

uh..it hurts if u step on it..E1.gif

i did it when i was trying out my pad, but it wasnt all that bad..i guess if u POUNDED on it it would alot more, but i mean, if u have a metal pad..why wouldnt u just use shoes on it anyway it does "achieve more arcade-like simulation"...and it would pervent the screws to hurt you laugh.gif
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Klott
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4024. PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2005 3:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

heres another question for stoli:

For drilling the holes through the hard board, u said they needed to be uber perfect. And you used a drill press. What would happen if say... I didnt have one? Would drilling by hand be really bad? And any tips for that?

Also, anyone know a good site (or has had experience) soldering MadCatZ DualForce controller? I searched a bit, but no luck.

--EDIT--
never mind about the controller.. just took it apart, and its kinda self explanatory laugh.gif
KLott
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stoli
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4025. PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2005 4:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Klott wrote:

For drilling the holes through the hard board, u said they needed to be uber perfect. And you used a drill press. What would happen if say... I didnt have one? Would drilling by hand be really bad? And any tips for that?


I used the drill press to make a "jig" that I used to drill the actual holes with a hand held drill. The "jig" was just a small block of 3/4" oak (1 1/2" x 3") which helped to guide the drill bit. Obviously, the drill press allowed me to drill a perfectly aligned hole through the jig.

Do you need a drill press? No. I drilled all the holes in my first pad by hand with no jig. I think about 5 of them are slightly angled but not too noticeable. The jig worked very well however and all the holes in the second pad came out great. If you don't have a drill press and are not confident that you can drill all the holes perfectly by hand, I suggest you make a jig anyways and keep drilling holes in it until you get one that you like. Some drills have level sights on them to assist in drilling perpendicular holes. You could also use a small protractor or something to help guide the bit. When you get a hole that you think is close, use that hole to drill all the pilot holes in the pad. Make sense? If not, let me know and I'll post a picture.

-Stoli
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8BitHero
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4026. PostPosted: Mon Apr 18, 2005 11:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Houou wrote:
Sorry for being rude, but can anyone please answer me the sheet metal question?


This is the best shot of sheet metal on stolis site.

http://home.comcast.net/~stoli16/ddr/border1/target2.html

Sheet Metal is just that, a very thing bendable sheet of metal. You can see it in this picture it's bent around the wood. I really dont know how to explaint it other then a thing sheet of steel.
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HitokiriX
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4027. PostPosted: Tue Apr 19, 2005 5:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

slvrshdw wrote:
uh..it hurts if u step on it..E1.gif

i did it when i was trying out my pad, but it wasnt all that bad..i guess if u POUNDED on it it would alot more, but i mean, if u have a metal pad..why wouldnt u just use shoes on it anyway it does "achieve more arcade-like simulation"...and it would pervent the screws to hurt you laugh.gif


so.....the screws are basically there for cheapness right? Not necessity. Corner braces at Home Depot are like 2.50 for 2 so finding that much isn't too expensive.....
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stoli
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4028. PostPosted: Tue Apr 19, 2005 6:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

HitokiriX wrote:
so.....the screws are basically there for cheapness right? Not necessity. Corner braces at Home Depot are like 2.50 for 2 so finding that much isn't too expensive.....


Cost: Screws are definitely cheaper.

Durability: Corner braces are probably better. The Lucite would be less susceptible to cracking.

Appearance: Subject to individual taste. Personally, I like the screws.

Construction: If you are good with a drill, I think the screws are easier. Especially if you are making a 6 button pad. If you are only going with the 4 arrows, it is probably a wash. I'm not sure how you connect the corner braces if you go with the X and O pads but I read somewhere that it can be done.

Safety: In my opinion, the screws are probably safer if you are going to be using bare feet or socks. I would think you could slit your foot open pretty bad if you caught the edge of a corner bracket just right. I'm sure there are some different thoughts out there regarding this area.

-Stoli
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slvrshdw
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4029. PostPosted: Tue Apr 19, 2005 12:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ya..the only reason i used screws was that they are cheaper.

but i dont see HOW u would be able to cut urself on the corner brackets becuz they are ALOT thicker than the sheet metal...or at least the ones i saw were anyway.

anyone check out my site yet?
if so, what do u think so far??
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Klott
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4030. PostPosted: Tue Apr 19, 2005 1:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you Stoli, that cleared up my confusion. I am going to try a jig, and see if it helps. My pad is coming along, just finished the base, now need to do the wiring and the tiles

Will post a pic or two soon
---
slvrshdw, get a few more pics on the site and describe what it all means, and youll be good to go.
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Heffenfeffer
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4031. PostPosted: Tue Apr 19, 2005 2:09 pm    Post subject: Troubleshooting Reply with quote

Howdy folks, dropping in after a bit of an absence. Well, after several months, I finally finished my pad! Yay! It's pretty nice and all, but it still has a few problems. Mainly, sticky arrows. My down arrow will randomly stick - while playing songs with double-tap eighth notes, the pad will register the first and not the second. As well, it also triggers down when stepping on the bottom-left metal panel.

Does anyone have some suggestions for what I can do to fix this situation? (I built a Riptide 2.0 model, with octagonal panels and corner brackets.

Thanks!

- Heffenfeffer
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LegendaryR56
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4032. PostPosted: Tue Apr 19, 2005 5:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, when you press an arrow does it register it as a press when the top sheet metal that is connected to the controller touches the bottom half sheet metal that is connected to the ground? if not then how exactly does it work?
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SuRfReAk
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4033. PostPosted: Tue Apr 19, 2005 6:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

About the cheaper pad- I've got the list, but I'm not sure how the low density weatherstripping will work here, so I guess you could go with the high density, I just think my pads require a little too much force. Oh, and Houou, you don't have to use sheet metal for your pad if you don't want to. Use metal tape or aluminum screening for the contacts instead, and just leave the plywood exposed. It won't look as good, but it'll work.


If anyone sees a potential problem with the height of the arrows vs. the height of the 5 panels, tell me please... It sounds impossible I know, but I could be wrong E15.gif .

Aluminum Screening $6.34
RadioShack Mini Controller $20.99
Stanley Brackets $25.27
Lexan/Lucite $16.07
1" by 2" Rails $21.15
Aluminum Flashing $11.43
1" by 12" Boards $15.18
Screws (Self-Drill, Drywall) $8.60
1/4" Plywood $14.59
Spray Adhesive and Duct Tape $ ~
Solder and Wire $ ~
3/16" Foam Core $2.12
1/2" by 1/2" Low Density Weatherstrip $6.76


Here I used the Aluminum flashing for the outside covering of the 5 panels, aluminum screening for contacts instead of sheet metal (as per ddrhomepad, you could also use metal tape for the contacts, which might last longer), 1" by 12" boards for the base of the 5 panels (you'd have to rip them, but I think it's easier than ply, and stronger), 1" by 2" rails for the underside of all the panels (arrows and non-arrows), 1/4" plywood instead of a second piece of lucite/plex on the underside of the arrow, and replaced the pegboard in ddrhomepad's design with 1/4" ply as well. I used the low density for the high density weatherstripping. I already had/have (as I haven't built it yet...) solder, wire, duct tape, and adhesive, so I didn't include those costs. The corner brackets are optional.

I think it would hold up very well, though not as long as ddrhomepads, because the contacts aren't as strong. You might have to replace them once or twice a year, but I don't know, as I haven't actually implemented this design yet. For all I know, it could hold up indefinitely laugh.gif .

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Heffenfeffer
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4034. PostPosted: Tue Apr 19, 2005 8:49 pm    Post subject: Riptide - works wonders on stains! Reply with quote

LegendaryR56 wrote:
So, when you press an arrow does it register it as a press when the top sheet metal that is connected to the controller touches the bottom half sheet metal that is connected to the ground? if not then how exactly does it work?


Well, not quite - this uses a sheet metal and mending bracket system. Along each of the four edges of each panel are two mending brackets - one for signal and the other for ground. When I step, the sheet metal on the bottom of the panel completes a circuit between signal and ground, triggering an arrow hit.

I swear, trying to adjust this thing is madness - up and left work just fine, it's just that down ghost steps every so often and right occasionally drops out. So close to perfection! Admittedly, half of this clarification is just venting - generally I loosen the corner brackets a bit until the stickiness goes away, but this seems to be just a temporary solution.

Thanks,
Heffenfeffer
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Rat Boy
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4035. PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2005 2:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

here's a quick question,do I have to use a PSX controller or could I use a controller for my comp and use the pad for stepmania because that's what I want to build the pad for
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Rat Boy wrote:
mmmk here...in daikenkai at the end it sounds like he's saying "don't cum if i suck your dick"

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Holy sh*t it does sound like it. And to think the real ones aren't that much different. shocked.gif
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jbean3535
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4036. PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2005 5:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A little advise....DO NOT CUT THE WOOD SQUARES BY HAND! It hurts really bad and takes forever. What should I do if the sqquares are a little off? Add more Sheet metal or what?
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slvrshdw
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4037. PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2005 5:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

im pretty sure u can, its just that alot of people build the pads for the console.

lol...so u cut them by hand too huh? laugh.gif

i started to, but then i was like.."i have a saw for this what am i doing?!?!"

so ya E7.gif

------
as for being off.
sand them? or are they too small? or uneven?

sand them and get a filler of any kind in it would make the most sence to me anyway..
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jbean3535
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4038. PostPosted: Wed Apr 20, 2005 5:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

slvrshdw wrote:
im pretty sure u can, its just that alot of people build the pads for the console.

lol...so u cut them by hand too huh? laugh.gif

i started to, but then i was like.."i have a saw for this what am i doing?!?!"

so ya E7.gif

------
as for being off.
sand them? or are they too small? or uneven?

sand them and get a filler of any kind in it would make the most sence to me anyway..


I did have a saw. I just needed an electric one;)
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Garcia
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4039. PostPosted: Thu Apr 21, 2005 3:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rat boy, as long as you solder everything correctly, you can use any controller you want. Since I already had an old keyboard, I used its controller. Also it's smaller than a console-style gamepad, so it fit easily inside my project.
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