My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)

[DBunny]

Hey, last summer I built a pad per the Riptide instructions, and I plan to build another for a friend this Saturday - but since then I have lost the instructional videos and I notice that the mirrors are down. Would it be possible for someone to set up some temporary hosting for me to download them, or maybe even send it to me directly? My msn is [email protected], or if you prefer aim (I rarely use it), let me know and I can install it again.

Thanks in advance =)

[slvrshdw]

i still havnt figured out exactly to make that de-static thing for the circuit board..

is it necesary to build it if ur using a ddr pad board?

if so, can some one explain it, with pics if possible.

i got the 5 panels down w/o the metal and no arrows yet..

i wanted to kno if i needed to do that static thing first.

man this site is helpful

[steve771]

stoli, nice job on the pics and explanations. I was wondering if a scrap metal "tie-in" between the panels would work... obviously it does! Looking forward to the switch work, thanks! I think I'm getting ready to start my board now!

Hey, just had a thought... if you were cutting the metal for the stationary squares, couldn't you just leave a "tang" sticking out and tie that to another square?

slvrshdw, I think if you are using the corner braces, you won't need an additional ground, as they would make the contact you see in the strap. If you aren't using corner braces then I think I would install the metal first and get that locked down and then do the straps so you could make any adjustments... but that's just me thinking outloud!


Stoli... I see you used the sheet metal to sheet metal for your contact plates. I was thinking about the sheet metal on one side, screw contacts on the other method. I just seemed to make sense that an "off" hit on the pad would register better. Somebody correct my thinking if I'm off please?

[slvrshdw]

ok thanks

im going to buy some aluminum flashing for the looks on the top 5 panels, some small finishing nails to hold the metal on the board, some spray adhesive and there was somthing else...(hopefully i get them tomm)

ill get pics prolly this weekend once i get the metal on the squares

its already looking better than it did earlier

[DJLazyPanda]

lol i dad works at a sheet metal shop in san jose........ should i make one? O________O;;;;;; looks like it would take a long time........ how long does it usually take for u all?
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[geckoinc99]

slvrshdw,

I used aluminum flashing for wrapping the non-functioning squares. I think it is easier to work with than regular sheet metal and should polish up nicely. Some pointers I have though:

1. If you glue it to the wood you won't have to use any nails at all. That will give you a clean surface.
2. I used contact cement to glue down. It works great, but you have to be very careful when applying it to keep it as even as possible. Also, do at least 2 coats on the metal surface and three coats on the wood. Then stick the metal to the top surface and press into place very well. Allow it time to bond. Then gently use a rubber mallet to bend the sides over. Cut away the excess and your done!

Good luck with the project.

David
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Life is very different 3000 feet above the earth with only a wing to hold you up....
Can't wait to be there again. Wanna join me? Visit http://www.hanglide.com

[slvrshdw]

ya i used aluminum on the non functioning squares last time, it looks really good, and pretty cheap$$

thats good to know about the contact cement ...ill prolly just get some spray adhesive tho

and the nails will go on the INSIDE of the square (the 3/4" side)
that way it doesnt show and it makes sure it WONT come off

im not going to cut off the excess because my last pad i did that on made it look bad

i think im going to get the needed materials today

and ill get pics of what i have so far (gimme an hour or so)

[Negated Void]

I had a neat idea today.

What if you had each arrow be a seperate piece, then connect them together with a border?

Like, the progression (in my mind) from top to bottom of an arrow

Top -10 7/8" x 10 7/8" Piece of Lexan
Graphic
Another Lexan, or whatever you prefer.
THe contacts, Weatherstripping.
a 10 7/8" x 10 7/8" piece of plyboard

Make however many of thoes, plus some stationary panels. Put them in a frame of aluminum flatbar or something - The frame can be tightened to keep them in place, and / or the outside 8 panels could be bolted from the outside.

Would this work well?
Has anyone tried anythign like it?
--Matt

[slvrshdw]

hmmm...i get what you are saying but why even bother with that?
its exactly the same as the other designs but it adds more work i think..some one oughta give it a try though if no one else has already

i mean, it would work, (in theory), but why bother with that if u can just do it the "normal" way?

is there something that i missed that makes it better somehow?

and i couldnt get pics today i should have them tomorrow tho

[Negated Void]

My thinking would be that it'd make construction easier. Like, I've been having some trouble getting the four holes in both pieces of plexi and the hole sin the plyboard base to line up. So i was thinking then i could put bothe the pieces of plexi and the piece of plyboard in some kinda jig so they'd be drilled easiler. *shrugs*

Sometimes, though, my imagination runs wild ;-)

[slvrshdw]

ohhhh..now i get it

go ahead and try it..

not many other people have said anything since we started talking

[Shogun]

Hey guys, I just got back from Lowes with all the stuff needed to build my pad except the plexiglass. Lowes only had this dinky acrylic junk and I figured it would break. Anyone know where I can get some Lexan locally? Having a hard time finding any of it.

[slvrshdw]

shogun-
well, i found mine at lowes i think..or maybe it was home depot, try home depot. i'd guess that a local glass shop might carry it but i really have no idea..

i got the stuff i needed too, and heres what ive got so far (the center square doesnt have the metal on yet, obviously)


and heres the contact on the bottom, altho its copper wire now (the arrows are drying, so i couldnt get pics)


heres a bad pic of my WIRELESS circuit board from a wireless dance pad

.................................................................................................................my camera date is off, weird
sorry for the bad pics, but you get the idea. i'll get better pics once i get it done...shouldn't be too much longer really, yay

[stoli]

Regarding the static build-up issue with my design, I just broke into the controller to wire up my second pad and while I was poking around with my multimeter I noticed that the side of the buttons that we have all been referring to as ground, are not actually tied to GND on my controller (Mad Catz Retro). Not quite sure if it is just this controller or what but it is a note worth mentioning. They are all tied to one another.

I mention this because when I was referring to bonding all my metal stationary panels to ground, I was going to just connect them to the same wire as the bottom switch plates, but I would hesitate to do that based on what I have just found. I would instead run a new wire off of the controller's actual GND. So far, there doesn't seem to be a need to tie them to anything except one another, and hopefully that is how it will stay.

-Stoli
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My Chrome Pad Website

[steve771]

Started putting my pad together. Forget about the "tang" idea... you would have to oversize the metal to get a piece coming off long enough to connect. Seems like the scrap metal strap is the way to go. Thanks for the tips on how to bend them, stoli, it worked well and they look good. Reading your post above, I'm a little confused on the ground now I'm actually using a circuit board from a previous dance pad so I will be soldering to that, so I might not have the issues you do, but I will still do the strap ground.

Also, I have a thought about the threads on the screws that hold down the switch panels. I know you placed a piece of rubber tubing around the screw to protect the lucite from the threads. But what if you used a piece of shrink wrap tubing around the threads near the head? I would think that would protect the lucite from the threads and be nice an snug too, what do you think?

[Negated Void]

Stoli, about how far do your arrows move down when they're stepped on before they contact? I think that mine might be travelign too far, causing my scews to hurt.

slvrshdw, a wireless pad, eh? I thought of that, but how's the responce? Like, with the origional pad did it seem to lag behind your steps any?

Still struggling with getting the everything lined up good, but i'm having another shot today with some form of jig and template.. :-D

-Matt

[slvrshdw]

wireless pad, yup

i got the pad for free from a friend and it worked perfectly for him
its a ps2 pad but i have an xbox so i just got that converter for ps2 to xbox and tried that out, nothing went wrong.

now ive gotta put the arrows and all the circuitry all together, plus the center square, but i think thats it

[stoli]

Arrow movement: The arrows do not move very much at all around the screws. I am trying a mouse pad for padding under the screws with my latest build and I think it is going to be the way to go. Foam core was too rigid and wx-stripping (under the screw) worked but didn't provide the rebound I was looking for. Should have some detailed pics by Monday night.

Lining up holes: Be careful using one of those corner jigs if you are using the corner screw design. Unless your lucite squares are identical (exactly identical which they are probably not) and perfectly square, that corner jig won't work. Each corner will be perfect but all 4 holes will probably not line up relative to each other. I drill the first hole through the lucite squares by tightly holding them together. Then I stick a 1" piece of the tubing through that hole and then drill the opposite corner. Then stick a 1" piece of tubing through the second hole and drill the remaining 2 corners. The tubing keeps the initial holes aligned perfectly and prevents the lucite from shifting while you drill the subsequent holes. Details on how I do it on Monday.

Grounding: Sorry if I confused the issue. Really only 2 things you need to worry about. 1. Just wire your switch pads to your controller like everyone else has shown. 2. Make sure all the metal stationary panels on your pad are tied together somehow. In my case, by using that small strap to connect the center pad with the lower right is all that was necessary. In DHP's design, the corner brackets do this.

Tubing: I think some type of tubing is necessary because you want to absorb the shock during use and it provides a little forgiveness if your holes aren't perfectly aligned. I am trying out some model A/C fuel line tubing with my new build and that seems to be working well. It is roughly the same size and is a little more flexible than the rubber tubing I found at the hardware store so it works better as a shock absorber. You guessed it, details on Monday.
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My Chrome Pad Website

[slvrshdw]

hey thats a good idea stoli..im gonna do that

and i know i drilled my holes wrong because i just went like..uhh..there and there

so its not perfect and you NEED to know exactly which square goes where

[steve771]

slvrshdw, looks like you are on your way. Mine is looking a lot like yours! Really great to have all these guys contributing ideas!