My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)

[WoodleyFitch]

And I am thinking about using the plans on http://2legacy.com/ddrpad

What I don't understand though is what the "Aluminum Screen" is... and the fact that he lists a MadKatz Dance Pad as a material. Does he mean the controller?

My main concern is that I just dont understand how the wiring is working. I think that I'll have no problem constructing the base and panels... but is there a place that better explains some of the button electrical setups?

[ch]

maybe this will help:

it sort of shows how the buttons are supposed to work.

when you press a button on your softpad, to layers of metallic material press together to close a circuit, registering a button press. when you make your metal pad, you replace those metallic materials with aluminum screen and screws. this offers better reliability and sensitivity.

aluminum screen is the same stuff you find on screen doors.

the madcatz dance pad is used solely for its controller board, located at the top of the pad.
_________________

http://www.grapheine.com/bombaytv/index.php?module=see&l=uk&code=36e44d4914f14070cc5b3d4c6bcd1042

CStarFlare wrote:

I approve of the direction this thread is going

http://www.xtranormal.com/watch?e=20090310025322668

[WoodleyFitch]

I'm starting to understand more. So, according to http://2legacy.com/ddrpad design I'll be putting one wire on the aluminum mesh and one wire to the small chain of washers at the base of the pad... I wish I knew what the "screw and sheet metal" system was, but I cant seem to visualize it and once again, pictures and building instructions arent helping.

I can invision that instead of having aluminum mesh on the bottom of your arrow, you have sheet metal, but how is the screw situated in the base? I assume that its below the level of the weatherstripping, but I dont know how. Which setup is better?

Sorry for all the questions

[grgisme]

No need to apologize for the questions. That's the sole purpose of the forum :-). That's how those of us who know what we're talking about got this way... we ask questions and pull on the general knowledge until we can help other people too.

I used the screw/sheet metal contact system. Let me see if I can explain. On your frame/base of the pad you have screws around the perimeter of each arrow panel. These screws are just that -- screwed into the frame (typically made out of 2x4's). They're not screwed down tight though, they stick up a little, about 1/4" in Riptide's design. But like you guessed, yes that is below the weatherstripping.

You then solder one of the two wires (typically the directional wire), to all the screws. So if you know the term... you're "daisy chaining" the screws together.

The sheet metal like you said is on the bottom of the acrylic (bottom of the arrow), and has one wire soldered to it in some fashion (some sandwhich the wire between the acrylic and the metal to help secure it).

The idea is just like that of the washers and the mesh, when the arrow button is stepped on, the weatherstripping compresses and then when the sheet metal makes contact with any one of the screws it will register as a button push. You can tighten and loosen the screws a small amount in order to adjust the sensitivity as well. Actually the wire mesh/washers was based on the screw/sheet metal system, just modified for cost effectiveness and because its supposedly easier to setup.

Hope that explains it well! Here's my two cents worth too :-):

I took the idea a step further. (This isn't completely accurate, but it gives you a good idea of what I did.) I nailed/adhesived very small sheet metal scraps down to my frame every place I was going to put a screw. I then soldered the directional wire to all of the sheet metal scraps. I then drilled through those sheet metal scraps, turned the pad over and drilled a 1/4" countersink hole. I then put in all my contact screws from the bottom up. The circuit was continued because the screws were making contact with the conducting sheet metal which was soldered to the wire. This way I can easily adjust the sensitivity of the pad by simply turning it on its side and using a screwdriver to adjust the screws on the bottom. It works just as well as drilling in the screws from the top, but its easier to adjust. (Note: I grinded down the screws in order to take off the sharp point, but I later found out this wasn't necessary. I countersunk the screws so they wouldn't be sticking down and scraping up the floor.)

[mtwieg]

I finally wired up my pad to a keyboard pcb. However, I'm using an old keyboard that uses a 6-pin connection, not a usb. It worked well until it apbrubtly stopped wqrking... When I plugged in my normal keyboard, that didn't work either, and I started freaking out, since it seemed like the actual inlet had gone dead. I restarted my comp, and my normal keyboard works fine. However, I'm kinda unsure whether I should try the pad again... I can't think of the reason my comp acted up like that...

EDIT: okay i tried it a few more times and it seems that I have static problems... After playing a bit, my comp starts making a beep sound (which it also makes when I plug in my keyboard), which suggests something is screwing with the signal. However, the pad I'm using has never had static problems on my ps2, and I'm using chris's design so any static SHOULD be insulated by the wooden panels...

[WoodleyFitch]

grgisme... thank you for the explanation! Out of the tons of pages in this thread and the different "design" webpages, this was the most helpful in having me visualize the screw and sheet metal setup. I think that I'm going to go with that setup... it seems more reliable now that I think about it.

So the weathstripping gives the Arrow box just enough height so that it doesnt touch the screw, but allows enough "squishyness" to touch he screws when pressed? beautiful.

[WoodleyFitch]

I guess I have another question... I'm about to buy supplies (probably this weekend) and have heard of people using plexiglass or lexan (stronger). The tool I was going to use to cut the wood and sheet metal (with the help of a sheet metal blade) was a handheld circular saw. I know that its hard to make perfect cuts, so I'm going to rough cut them and sand them down until they are perfect. My question to you guys is, can you cut Lexan with a circular saw? I read somewhere in this post that people at lowes broke blade after blade trying to. Or shoul I just use plexiglass? I just dont want them cracking.

[WoodleyFitch]

So I'm running this all through my head and I have another question.

So, say I have a base. On that base, I have 5 stationary squares made with 3/4" plywood with sheet metal on top of them (with another square of 1/2" plywood inbetween it and the base)... totalling 1 1/4". The Arrows are made of 1/2" plywood with 1/4" plexiglass on top and 1/2" of weatherstripping stapled to the base... totalling 1 1/4". The arrows are held in place by corner brackets. So, the arrows and the stationary steps are equal in height.

Has anyone had a problem getting the stationary squares to be the exact height of the arrows? Has anyone had a problem with stepping on the arrow and getting your foot caught underneath the corner bracket?

[latindude88wpg]

i did, but i solved the problem adding more weather stripping under the arrows. i found it better to have the arrows about 1/4" higher, cuz that gives you enough room to move them down once you break your pad in.

[ch]

my arrows are way too low. im thinking of replacing one of the sheets of plexiglass with 1/2" plywood. that should get all the squares even.
_________________

http://www.grapheine.com/bombaytv/index.php?module=see&l=uk&code=36e44d4914f14070cc5b3d4c6bcd1042

CStarFlare wrote:

I approve of the direction this thread is going

http://www.xtranormal.com/watch?e=20090310025322668

[Ponity]

Well, i just finished mine. It works great, but the transition from my RedOctane to a metal pad is pretty hard. Here's some pics if anyone wants to see it.
(the song score in the picture was not a hard song. Just 'Make Your Move'.)

http://photobucket.com/albums/v39/dragoon114/DDR/

(There are 4 pictures there :D)

[grgisme]

Bravo on the dance pad Ponity, looks good! One comment -- you said the transition from your RO pad to your homemade pad was a difficult one... I agree!!! I've yet to get used to my metal pads. I have the BMS ignition soft pad dense foam insert pads... and they are REALLY nice, but my homemade once are so much nicer... i just can't get used to them yet! It'll come in time.

As for the more questions, a handheld circular saw will cut the lexan nicely. I used that exact type of saw to cut a lot of acrylic, and it has proved to give me the straightest and cleanest cuts. Better than my table saw even (the more teeth the cleaner cut you'll get). Set up your rip fence by clamping a 2x4 to the acrylic that you can run your circular saw along. I won't give tips though, lol, you have the tools, you know what you're doing! Yes that will work well for you though.

As far as the height of the arrows and such, mine came out to an uncanny perfect height. You can run your hand across the pad, and other than the corner brackets (which are just slightly higher), you can't tell the difference. Which has its pros and cons... its tough to know where you are on the dance pad now. As far as your feet getting caught under the corner brackets, it hasn't happened to me yet, and I play in socks, barefoot, and in shoes, so I think you'll be okay.

Have a good weekend lads!

[ankletwister]

hi new DDR player here, me and a friend of mine are going to try making some metal/wood/plexiglass pads, and i was wondering how much travel you guys have your pads setup for? a few mm's or more?

we will be using puch buttons as the contact points, say 4-5 each arrow, and will hopefully be able to work off the spring in the buttons themselves. but if not we will add some small springs to set that straight.

but as above how much travel do your arrows have?
can you press it on an angle and still have it work correctly?

thanks
_________________

We're at terror alert orange, which means some thing might go down, some where, in some way at some point in time..... So look sharp!

[WoodleyFitch]

grgisme, this may be a silly question... but if your lexan squares don't come out perfectly, will an oscillating sander be able to grind it down to the exact measurements? I've just never thought of using sandpaper on plexiglass or lexan, but I guess its just a form of plastic so it should work right?

[steve771]

If you use the "guts" from a softpad, can't you use the switches that are in that rather than the metal to metal contacts?

And if you can't (they are too cheap, fall apart, whatever), is there a microswitch that is recommended. I'm not really against the metal, but I read complaints about noise and thought a microswitch might solve some of that?

[grgisme]

Alright, 3 ducks in a row.

First: Ankletwister (hope you've twisted your ankle playing DDR!)

The acrylic (plexiglass) arrows have a little travel, but its not that much honestly. Mine isn't even noticeable, at all. It's pretty tight, and it can be if built correctly (mine are great at any rate). Yes you can press the button at an angle and it works fine, it doesn't slide up and down that far, so its not a problem. The pushbuttons you're probably going to find to be more expensive than the metal system, but it could work. The springs could work too, provided they aren't interfering with your circuit.

Second: WoodleyFitch (is that a bird?)

Yes you can sand down the acrylic (lexan, plexiglass, whatever), it works fine. I used a sanding wheel for a table saw, but an oscillating sander will work too, just clap down the plexiglass (unless its some kind of stationary sander... then it's fine... duh).

Third little ducky! Duck Duck Goose... Yeah anyways.

Steve771:

Using the guts from a softpad sounds like a great idea, until you open it up and check it out. If you put that in a wood frame with plexiglass and metal and such, (or just wood) it's going to rip easily, and the foam will get tore up, and it's not going to last. But you can try if you want... none of us have wanted to risk the seemingly huge chance of failure to test it out. Fight the odds :-).

A microswitch... don't know enough about it, but it makes sense. Perhaps other guys can recommend one, though I don't know of anyone who has used one. That's what's used in the acrade machines, but those switches are expensive and have like a 200 dollar minimum purchase. Good luck and let us know what you find!

[steve771]

grgisme, you guys certainly know way more than me with this stuff. You're right, it "sounded" like it should make sense! Sorry for the newbie question.

I would also defer on the microswitch question. I just wondered if the topic had come up and if there were any suggestions. Thanks!

[ch]

microswitches would probably be too troublesome to get set exactly level and even inside your pad, and far to expensive to order anything that would be substantial enough to stomp on.

if you can come up with an inexpensive microswitch solution, that would be awesome, but we've yet to come up with an efficient design.

and if you really want one with microswitches, you can buy a replacement arcade pad from channelbeat.com with everything in it.
_________________

http://www.grapheine.com/bombaytv/index.php?module=see&l=uk&code=36e44d4914f14070cc5b3d4c6bcd1042

CStarFlare wrote:

I approve of the direction this thread is going

http://www.xtranormal.com/watch?e=20090310025322668

[peepsluvr]

I finished all four arrow panels:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v334/noodleboy35/DDR_Objects/Four_arrows.jpg

I am going to start working on the frame now. I don't plan on using metal becuase it was hard enough to cut the metal for the contacts. So, I am either going to use wood alone for the dead panels, or use wood and put the acryllic on top of it with something sandwiched in between. I'll probably do the latter. So, I was wondering if anyone has or found a graphic that is the same as the center of a soft pad- the circle that fades out.

[steve771]

peepsluvr, looks like an interesting start. Did you use someone else's plans, or are these your own design? Either way, got a more detailed link?