My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)

mikieson · Trick Member Joined: 14 Nov 2003

touching the wires works...just as i feared. I know im not the only one who glues the contacts down to the plexiglass and the wood base? Dont really know if the glues stops almost all the current or not but I guess I will pry the contacts off and use some sticky tape on them. If this fails Im going to get a cobolt flux....Now if my wife will just let me....LOL

ch · Posted: Thu Feb 03, 2005 4:54 pm Post subject:

youll probably have to solder the wires to the contacts for a real firm connection. glue and placement is probaby not the best idea.

poke a hole in the sheet metal (if you have sheet metal) and bend the wire over into it. solder the rest of the hole filled and that should leave a firm connection. then you can glue the sheet to plexiglass withour worrying about the connection
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CStarFlare wrote:

I approve of the direction this thread is going

http://www.xtranormal.com/watch?e=20090310025322668

5thDementian · Trick Member Joined: 12 Oct 2004 Location: Kalamazoo, MI

I don't know any possible way to explain it, but I have not solder holding my wires. I've got duct tape holding them _in place_.... it's pressure from the rubber tubing in the arrows that actually make the wires make contact. I've got a couple pics on my site (in my signature) that TRY to explain it a little better.

Also....

SuRfReAk · Trick Member Joined: 19 Dec 2004

Soldering the wire onto the contact provides the best connection. I then cover my exposed solder with duct tape, usually two layers. Soldering is easy, cheap, and efficient. You don't really have to poke a hole in the metal - if you use rosin core solder and duct tape - either. I glue my contacts to the plywood/pegboard and lucite, also; so it could be the type of metal you're using. What type of contact are you using?
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mikieson · Trick Member Joined: 14 Nov 2003

I did used roll flashing. Its thin,and I did drill holes to run the wires through and twist. Once again , I have built 2 other pads before with a different design. I have sold those to build these. Wish I had them back..
I guess I will replace all the contacts with ones I tape on instead of glueing. It wouldnt matter what kind of metal contacts used would it? I figure all metal would conduct ????
Anyways, Im gonna mess with them somemore and see what happends. If anyone has anymore ideas please feel free to help....Thanks

ch · Posted: Thu Feb 03, 2005 7:08 pm Post subject:

you should wear down the surface of the metal youre using for contacts, just to make sure theres no coatings or anything on it. you could use steel wool.
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CStarFlare wrote:

I approve of the direction this thread is going

http://www.xtranormal.com/watch?e=20090310025322668

mikieson · Trick Member Joined: 14 Nov 2003

Guess I will wake up tomorrow and get busy on them. Im gonna make new contacts and stick with double sided tape like on my old pads. Im gonna rough up the metal and clean off.....wich I forgot to do.
I did not only try touching the wires together to test but I also made 2 squares of contacts just to hold and put together to test and it works too.
So something is up with the glue or something that I used. Just used brush on contact cement. That is normal but I will try my old tape again.
I will let all know something soon. Thanks for all the help......Later

aznduo · Basic Member Joined: 23 Dec 2004

Hey, i was just wondering if anyone ever tried to get actual arcade sensors, like the ones from channelbeat.com; if wired correctly, shouldn't they work?
please do not flame, i'm seriously just very curious. thanks in advance.
also, channelbeat.com is offering arcade decal replacements for like 10 dollars a piece....imo i think it would be the best choice for decals, no?

ch · Posted: Thu Feb 03, 2005 9:10 pm Post subject:

well, first off, i would like to add that channelbeat has a $200 min order.

if you could get the acutal sensors and find a way to mount them on the sides of your arrow well, that would be awesome. but for $200 minimum order, you could just get a whole replacement pad for a solo machine and you would be all set. if you got a whole arcade pad, that would be awesomer.

but that curcumvents the process of building your own pad.
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CStarFlare wrote:

I approve of the direction this thread is going

http://www.xtranormal.com/watch?e=20090310025322668

aznduo · Basic Member Joined: 23 Dec 2004

the 200 dollars marker is not hard to clear if u get someone else to build one with u....since the minimum order for each sensor is like 10 dollars with a minimum purchase of 8....that's 80 dollars....then buy another 8 panels.....that's another 80 dollars....then u could always buy the photons for another 80 or so.....and top it off with the metal panels and u're well above 200....prolly 300....so....300 for half the materials of 2 pads is pretty decent if u get it to work the way u want it to.....

i think they are selling the solo pads for 380, but solo pads only have 2 sensors instead of 4

ch · Posted: Thu Feb 03, 2005 9:18 pm Post subject:

or a whole used solo pad for about 350.

thats looking very attractive.
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CStarFlare wrote:

I approve of the direction this thread is going

http://www.xtranormal.com/watch?e=20090310025322668

aznduo · Basic Member Joined: 23 Dec 2004

i totally agree with the solo pad....but wouldn't it be some-what difficult to re-wire?

ch · Posted: Thu Feb 03, 2005 10:01 pm Post subject:

get a wiring harness, too. or open it up and find the wires.
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CStarFlare wrote:

I approve of the direction this thread is going

http://www.xtranormal.com/watch?e=20090310025322668

mtwieg · Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2005 7:56 am Post subject:

HitokiriX · Trick Member Joined: 27 Mar 2004 Location: Berwyn, PA

aznduo · Basic Member Joined: 23 Dec 2004

i personally own a red octane metal pad, and IMO it's not that great which is why i want to build a better one. One that does not use styrofoam/weatherstripes/plastic tubes to make the decals bouce up and down. I have not tried CF b4, but would like to know if the mechanics of CF is the same as a RedOctane metal pad, like some foam material and circuit board to metal sheet contact.

also, the 380 dollars is for the WHOLE solo pad, not just half the materials, 300 or so dollars would be for half the materials of TWO metal pads

HitokiriX · Trick Member Joined: 27 Mar 2004 Location: Berwyn, PA

5thDementian · Trick Member Joined: 12 Oct 2004 Location: Kalamazoo, MI

SuRfReAk · Trick Member Joined: 19 Dec 2004

Two problems with arcade sensors. A: money. B: sensitivity. You can build two homebuilt pads for under $200, I have done it myself. $300 for half the materials of two, runs at least $200-$225 a pad. That's not what you call cost-effective. For the sensitivity issue, if you build a pad, tweak the screws, placement of the support (weatherstripping, tubing, etc.), the composition of the contacts, and the size of the contacts, you can make a pad that responds ANYTIME ANYONE steps on it. You can't improve upon perfection. The only thing I see in arcade sensors is bragging rights.

This thread got really boring all of a sudden...
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HitokiriX · Trick Member Joined: 27 Mar 2004 Location: Berwyn, PA