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My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)
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ch
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3520. PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2005 11:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

professionals use lexan to make bullet proof glass.

its expensive, but works great. it doesnt bend much, so it doesnt squeak either.

i think they use it on the arcade pads.
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HitokiriX
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3521. PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2005 11:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

SuRfReAk wrote:
Lucite is an acrylic where Lexan is not. It cost me $70 for the Lexan alone for 2 pads. Yes, it's extremely strong, but I think you'll be fine with Lucite, even for 250 lbs. I remember Lucite being about half the cost, so I'd say around $40 for Lucite. I'm going to do some looking around, because that wasn't very good Lucite, it was pretty scratched up, and only had some sort of very thin cellophane covering over it. If you're worried about it breaking because of weight, you could just move the foam core slightly in, so there would be less unsupported surface, causing less sensitivity, but more strength (with that weight, it will still probably be pretty sensitive). I know Lexan holds up though, I've jumped on every arrow absolutely as hard as I could, and my 220 pound dad tried it out.


thank you. But is lucite stronger than most acrylics? And what is lexan exactly if it's not an acrylic? I didn't mean I specifically was 250 lbs...I just want the acrylic to be able to withstand that much so that my other friends who are more about 220 can still play on my pad safely.
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SuRfReAk
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3522. PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2005 11:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The more I think about it, the more I think you could just leave the weatherstripping on the very edges, because the gap there is only what, 1/16"? Lucite will bend a lot more than that before it breaks, so I don't think you (or your friends) have much to worry about. As for the composition of Lexan, I didn't know so I Googled it. http://www.gelexan.com/
Apparently, Lexan is a brand name for a polycarbonate plastic manufactured by GE. Cartoonhero_604 is 100% right. NASA also uses it for astronaut helmets.
Here's another interesting bit I found:
LUCITE: Trademark of the E.I. DUPONT CO
PLEXIGLAS: Trademark of the ROHM & HASS CO
UVEX: Trademark of the EASTMAN KODAK CO
ACRYLITE: Trademarks of CYRO Industries

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grgisme
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3523. PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2005 7:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey guys haven't been able to get on for a day or so... I'm thinking everyone had that problem from the looks of it. You act like $70 for lexan for 2 pads is extremely expensive. I'd like to point out that from what I could find it was going to be a little OVER $75 (probably around 80 - 90) to get LUCITE for 2 pads at Home Depot (didn't look at Lowes, I didn't go that route anyhow).


Just thought I'd throw that out there. The majority of the cost of the pad comes from the acrylic and the sheet metal.
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pandaran
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3524. PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2005 7:29 pm    Post subject: expensive bits Reply with quote

Yeesh! I think our major cost was from the Stanley brackets. I know everyone's going without them now, but I really like the way they look. It's amazing that something actually does exist that you can't find significantly cheaper online! Too bad you can't get them in bulk, since the little screws that come with them aren't long enough for our purposes, anyway. Cuz I would totally have bought a 100 pack (assuming a smaller number wasn't available in bulk) if it saved me a lot, and sold the rest off.

Also, although I think that it's probably correct that the lexan will be plenty strong enough for someone heavier, you could also try putting a second row closer in to the center and see if it still contacts as well. Surfreak's (sorry on the spelling) comment made me think of that.
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mtwieg
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3525. PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2005 7:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

how the heck can you guys let yourselves get ripped off so bad??? sorry, that came out wrong, but seriously, there is no reason you should be paying that much for a bit of plexiglass/lexan/whatever. I'm assuming you all use riptide's panel design, which requires a large amount of quarter inch plex. It's a total waste of money. I highly recommend using a single layer of 1/8" plex on top of high grade plywood. I get anough of that at lowes to build TWO pads for $30.
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grgisme
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3526. PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2005 8:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used riptide's design, and got enough for 1 pad (which I'm making it enough for two... only using one layer of acrylic per pad -- i'll let you know how it turns out). For $35 I got 8 sq. ft. of Lucite from a local glass shop. I wouldn't let myself get ripped off.
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HitokiriX
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3527. PostPosted: Mon Jan 31, 2005 6:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't want to spend TOO much on acrylic....maybe about 30 dollars down for a 3' x 3' piece. Then again a piece that big would be cut into 8 plexiglass squares so 2 for each arrow well. I haven't seen any plexiglass pieces smaller than that at lowes or home depot though so I might as well buy it.

Do all the acrylic types bend? I really don't like the idea of the acrylic panels bending and I don't think they would seeming as the distance is only about 1/16 of an inch.
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HitokiriX
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3528. PostPosted: Mon Jan 31, 2005 6:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mtwieg wrote:
how the heck can you guys let yourselves get ripped off so bad??? sorry, that came out wrong, but seriously, there is no reason you should be paying that much for a bit of plexiglass/lexan/whatever. I'm assuming you all use riptide's panel design, which requires a large amount of quarter inch plex. It's a total waste of money. I highly recommend using a single layer of 1/8" plex on top of high grade plywood. I get anough of that at lowes to build TWO pads for $30.


I was thinking about doing that but I was wondering if the plywood might like tear up the graphic over time. You haven't had the problem right?
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ch
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3529. PostPosted: Mon Jan 31, 2005 9:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

if you spend $30 on plexi, then yes, it will bend. if you dont want it to bend, get lexan. they use lexan to make bullet-proof glass, for chrissake. but its gonna cost you.

alternatively, you could get http://www.channelbeat.com/news/37.html real arrows, which are made of lexan, but the minimum order is 200 dollars. so if youre doing that, you may as well order sensors and an entire set of replcement parts and build a whole pad.

....



hey.. thats not a bad idea.....

ill be right back.
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HitokiriX
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3530. PostPosted: Mon Jan 31, 2005 12:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cartoonhero_604 wrote:
if you spend $30 on plexi, then yes, it will bend. if you dont want it to bend, get lexan. they use lexan to make bullet-proof glass, for chrissake. but its gonna cost you.

alternatively, you could get http://www.channelbeat.com/news/37.html real arrows, which are made of lexan, but the minimum order is 200 dollars. so if youre doing that, you may as well order sensors and an entire set of replcement parts and build a whole pad.


damn....well I hope it won't bend too much. I'm not payin twice as much just to get non-bending acrylic.
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ch
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3531. PostPosted: Mon Jan 31, 2005 12:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

it may squeak a lot.
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SuRfReAk
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3532. PostPosted: Mon Jan 31, 2005 12:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

grgisme wrote:
I used riptide's design, and got enough for 1 pad (which I'm making it enough for two... only using one layer of acrylic per pad -- i'll let you know how it turns out). For $35 I got 8 sq. ft. of Lucite from a local glass shop. I wouldn't let myself get ripped off.


Just noticing, didn't you say that $70 for two pads was cheap? Anyways, HitokiriX, I'm willing to bet that if you use part of padmaker's/riptides design, with one layer of plywood, then one layer of lucite, it won't bend, since plywood is so strong. The plywood won't tear up the graphic, because everything there is stationary, and there's so much pressure from the screws on the graphic that you don't have to worry about it moving (the only way it could get torn up). Anyways, on my next pair of pads, I'm going to incorporate a bit of everyone's design. I'll post pictures once I figure out how.
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grgisme
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3533. PostPosted: Mon Jan 31, 2005 12:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

LoL, yeah I did say $70 for 2 pads was cheap, and it is... if you're using 2 pieces of 1/4" acrylic per arrow. I used 1 piece of 1/4" Lucite per arrow. I still say to everybody to get their acrylic from a glass shop (like a place that frames pictures), NOT from Lowes or Homedepot or the like.
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SuRfReAk
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3534. PostPosted: Mon Jan 31, 2005 1:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lol, whatever. $70 is the same price you got for your lucite (35x2=70). Yeah, I agree. Home Depot and Lowes mark things up like crazy. I was looking for screws, then heard about some specialty shop; which I checked out, and found 100 screws for less than half the price of shorter, smaller screws at Home Depot.


EDIT: grgisme, sorry if I seemed harsh or insulting. NO NEGATIVE VIBES IN THIS FORUM!

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Last edited by SuRfReAk on Mon Jan 31, 2005 2:22 pm, edited 2 times in total
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HitokiriX
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3535. PostPosted: Mon Jan 31, 2005 2:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SuRfReAk wrote:
grgisme wrote:
I used riptide's design, and got enough for 1 pad (which I'm making it enough for two... only using one layer of acrylic per pad -- i'll let you know how it turns out). For $35 I got 8 sq. ft. of Lucite from a local glass shop. I wouldn't let myself get ripped off.


Just noticing, didn't you say that $70 for two pads was cheap? Anyways, HitokiriX, I'm willing to bet that if you use part of padmaker's/riptides design, with one layer of plywood, then one layer of lucite, it won't bend, since plywood is so strong. The plywood won't tear up the graphic, because everything there is stationary, and there's so much pressure from the screws on the graphic that you don't have to worry about it moving (the only way it could get torn up). Anyways, on my next pair of pads, I'm going to incorporate a bit of everyone's design. I'll post pictures once I figure out how.


yeah i think that's what i'll go with. An acrylic panel on top and a plywood on the bottom with a design in between to hide the plywood. Saves money and is actually more practical too!
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SuRfReAk
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3536. PostPosted: Mon Jan 31, 2005 2:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, this is a question that I've been trying to ask chris (padmaker), but since he's not responding to anything lately, I'll post it here. He uses aluminum screening in his design ( www.2legacy.com/ddrpad ), but only on one side. Other than the fact that the screws on the other side of the contact are higher, to make the contacts closer together, is there a reason NOT to use aluminum screening on both sides? I was thinking to just attach a ground wire to one piece of screen and a "live" wire to the other, just like sheetmetal contacts in ddrhomepads (and I think Riptides, too). Yes, I know solder won't stick to it.

EDIT: You can say that again, HitokiriX! Oh, hey! You did! Lol, just messing with you.

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Last edited by SuRfReAk on Mon Jan 31, 2005 2:30 pm, edited 1 time in total
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HitokiriX
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3537. PostPosted: Mon Jan 31, 2005 2:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SuRfReAk wrote:
grgisme wrote:
I used riptide's design, and got enough for 1 pad (which I'm making it enough for two... only using one layer of acrylic per pad -- i'll let you know how it turns out). For $35 I got 8 sq. ft. of Lucite from a local glass shop. I wouldn't let myself get ripped off.


Just noticing, didn't you say that $70 for two pads was cheap? Anyways, HitokiriX, I'm willing to bet that if you use part of padmaker's/riptides design, with one layer of plywood, then one layer of lucite, it won't bend, since plywood is so strong. The plywood won't tear up the graphic, because everything there is stationary, and there's so much pressure from the screws on the graphic that you don't have to worry about it moving (the only way it could get torn up). Anyways, on my next pair of pads, I'm going to incorporate a bit of everyone's design. I'll post pictures once I figure out how.


yeah that's probably what I'll do. Using plywood would cut down on prices and is even actually more practical than using two pieces of acrylic because it keeps the acrylic from bending. Thanks!
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HitokiriX
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3538. PostPosted: Mon Jan 31, 2005 2:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

SuRfReAk wrote:
Ok, this is a question that I've been trying to ask chris (padmaker), but since he's not responding to anything lately, I'll post it here. He uses aluminum screening in his design ( www.2legacy.com/ddrpad ), but only on one side. Other than the fact that the screws on the other side of the contact are higher, to make the contacts closer together, is there a reason NOT to use aluminum screening on both sides? I was thinking to just attach a ground wire to one piece of screen and a "live" wire to the other, just like sheetmetal contacts in ddrhomepads (and I think Riptides, too). Yes, I know solder won't stick to it.

EDIT: You can say that again, HitokiriX! Oh, hey! You did! Lol, just messing with you.


I think the only reason he uses screws on the bottom side is for the possibility that others will need to adjust their's to a certain sensitivity level. Padmaker's design stresses cheapness so he used aluminum screening since it's so cheap to buy. But when you look at it you'll find that it's barely like 1/32 of an inch thick. So if you used screening for both contacts then there would be too much moving space between the contacts. Therefore he made the bottom contacts adjustable so as to close the distance between them.
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grgisme
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3539. PostPosted: Mon Jan 31, 2005 2:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hitokirix hit the nail on the head, it's about being able to adjust the sensitivity, which is a MUST. If you have no way to adjust this then you're going to be stuck when you get your pad together and realize it needs tweaked (as every pad ever built has needed).
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