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My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)
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5thDementian
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Joined: 12 Oct 2004
Location: Kalamazoo, MI
3480. PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2005 12:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey guys/gals... my website was down for a while and I just got it back up. So, for those of you who haven't seen the pictures of my custom pad, please click the link in my signature and check them out (It'll take you directly to the pictures).....

and of course, please tell me what you think.
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I FINALLY got my website back up... look at my ddr custom pad pics!!!

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ch
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3481. PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2005 12:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

if you use only one piece of plexiglass, your arrow may be too low in the well to play properly. mine is about 1/8th of an inch below the edge, ant thats really low.
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HitokiriX
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3482. PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2005 1:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

latindude88wpg wrote:
grgisme wrote:
1/4" acrylic is pretty strong (like I said, I've worked with it in the past... though I wasn't jumping on it), and I'm wondering if anyone has experimented and can advise AGAINST using only ONE piece of acrylic.


i remember reading somewhere on the thread that someone actually broke his 1/4" acrylic. then they went on and on about the difference between acrylic and plexiglass... i'll try to do a search on it, because it's very important information.


yeah that was one of my thoughts when I first entered the building your own pad arena. I still don't really know why everyone says in their instructionals that they use acrylic when in the manufactured ddr pads thread it sayed to NEVER buy pads with acrylic panels. E19.gif
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HitokiriX
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3483. PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2005 1:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hey everyone, just wondering if static build-up can reach a control board even if it's in a separate control box. Like I'll be making a control box out of the madcatz softpad and attaching it to the pad through a network cable like padmaker did but I don't want to take any chances with static and electrical shortages.

Also, I asked a question about 2 or 3 pages back about screw head numbers. When you go to like home depot or some other hardware store they sell screws of different lengths, but also with different numbers on them like 1/4 inch dry wall screw #4 or 1/4 inch dry wall screw #2. Can anyone tell me what the #'s are for? Oh and along with that the reason why I want to know this is because I'm planning to use flat head sheet metal screws to attach the corner braces onto my pad to hold the arrow panels in like in riptide's pad. But I just realized that some larger headed sheet metal screws might not fit the holes on the corner braces so can anyone tell me the screw head size I would need?


Last edited by HitokiriX on Wed Jan 26, 2005 3:17 pm, edited 1 time in total
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ch
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3484. PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2005 2:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

it can still reach it, but i havent had any trouble with it. my grounding wire came off of the metal sheet, and i havent really noticed any diff in play.
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HitokiriX
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3485. PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2005 3:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cartoonhero_604 wrote:
it can still reach it, but i havent had any trouble with it. my grounding wire came off of the metal sheet, and i havent really noticed any diff in play.


who was that for? If it was for me I'll try and re-phrase my question...
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Leelee
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3486. PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2005 5:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just wondering if there is a good cheap xbox controller that could be used as a board. Rather than resigning myself to a converter.
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theinsanitytest
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3487. PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2005 5:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

any xbox controller could work
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slvrshdw
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3488. PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2005 5:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

but i had a broken one i used and then it stopped working..
then i got another broken one and i screwed up the connections..

so now ive gotta buy an actual pad or get another one from a friend..which is what im planning to do..

i think it was the static build-up like ppl have mentioned, but i didnt play it except for about an hour, tops..so it coulda been the controller..
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grgisme
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3489. PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2005 5:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Leelee wrote:
Just wondering if there is a good cheap xbox controller that could be used as a board. Rather than resigning myself to a converter.


LoL, wish I had a penny for every time I've talked about this question. Nothing wrong with it! It's a VERY good question. My suggestion to everyone is that while any cheap controller will work, only the controller boards out of actuall xbox dance pads will register as a dance pad for xbox live. So keep that in mind if you own xbox live.

cartoonhero_604 wrote:
if you use only one piece of plexiglass, your arrow may be too low in the well to play properly. mine is about 1/8th of an inch below the edge, ant thats really low.


If I used only one piece of plexiglass I would make the plywood that the non-arrow panels are made out of lower accordingly, so the arrow assembly would still be the correct height. I'm just curious about the strength of it. I'm fairly lightweight (145lbs), but I don't want it to snap if some of my friends play with me, heh. It would be a big money saver though.

I'm trying to decide on sheet metal. There's the small stuff at Lowes and Home Depot, which I can get at Home Depot for 20 bucks for a 3 x 2 sheet (I'd need three sheets for both pads total then -- I'm making a border wrapped in sheet metal), and then there's this roofing stuff with a slight design on it, but I'm wondering if it wouldn't just make a creative pad... that stuff is 10 bucks for all I need, and conducts just as well, etc. Anybody experiment with the cheaper stuff?
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ch
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3490. PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2005 5:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hitokirix: static can still get to the control box, no matter where it is.

however, my static grounding cord came off of my pad, and i havent noticed any difference in play. I would only worry about the grounding cord if you're not using a softpad control board, so go without for now.



grgisme: i used a roll of aluminum flashing. it doesnt bend very well, and you have to scrape away the coating for it to conduct. dont get rolls of sheet metal, get a sheet of sheet metal.

if you have some money left over, get diamond plate for the metal squares.
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HitokiriX
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3491. PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2005 7:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cartoonhero_604 wrote:
hitokirix: static can still get to the control box, no matter where it is.

however, my static grounding cord came off of my pad, and i havent noticed any difference in play. I would only worry about the grounding cord if you're not using a softpad control board, so go without for now.


Thanks for the reply. Now what about the screw head question....I noticed that the corner braces come with little screws but I dont' know what they're for or if they will be able to securely attach the corner brace to the pad. I guess that's what they're for....
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grgisme
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3492. PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2005 7:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

LoL I was just getting on to ask about this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=41369&item=8164230619&rd=1

If I get "sheets" of sheet metal that look good, my cheapest solution is around 100- 110 dollars. So that roll would be cheaper. I'm just looking for ways to cut costs. I have the money to go all out and spend the 120 bucks, but I have the time so I might as well shop for it cheaper.

Woah... how about a sticker?:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=20581&item=4353370309
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ch
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3493. PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2005 7:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the roll of aluminum is very difficult to bend properly. i used it.
it also requires scraping to make a contact from. you could use it, but its difficut to get around the plywood squares.
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naitram
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3494. PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2005 10:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

HitokiriX: The size of the screws for the corner braces, they look to be #8.
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pandaran
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3495. PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2005 10:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

And the number is the size of the screw head. In DDRhomepad's (I think it was him, anyway) instructions, he said that the screws that come with the corner brackets are too short to be strong enough to hold the panels together and suggested getting screws at least an inch long.

Grgisme: Plexi cracks pretty easy, but you could give it a shot if you wanted to. We're only going to use one sheet of 1/4" plexi and a piece of 1/4" plywood. I think we're going to glue a graphic to the plywood (we're each personalizing our pads with our favorite cartoons) and then etch an arrow into the bottom of the plexi to light up.

If Acrylic isn't what is used on the official pads, what is? Is lexan something different than acrylic (thinking that might be what they use)? I just thought it was a higher grade or something.
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naitram
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3496. PostPosted: Thu Jan 27, 2005 5:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://linear1.org/gm/archives/00000136.php

a quick google search turned this up. the short of it is that lexan is tougher than acrylics, and plexiglass is a brand name for an acrylic material. i'd swear someone said that on this forum...but i couldn't turn it up.
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HitokiriX
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3497. PostPosted: Thu Jan 27, 2005 9:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for the info about the screw head sizes. So I take it the higher numbers go the smaller the screw head size right? or was it the other way..... riiight.gif

Lexan is the toughest of all acrylics. It's also about twice as expensive! so I would rather go with a less durable, but still good enough for DDR pads acrylic.
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SuRfReAk
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3498. PostPosted: Thu Jan 27, 2005 9:44 am    Post subject: Arrow Graphics Reply with quote

Hey 5thDementian, where did you find your arrow graphics? I've been looking for a different color arrow to use for my 2nd pad, so they both won't look the same, and your red/orange one is spiffy!
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pandaran
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3499. PostPosted: Thu Jan 27, 2005 12:03 pm    Post subject: Screws Reply with quote

I'm pretty sure the bigger the number, the bigger the screw head, but you could double check at the hardware store.

Oh, and someone asked about the foil tape earlier. I saw it at Home Depot next to the duct tape. Don't know if that's where it's located at other stores, though. If you use it, be careful when you're smoothing it down, because the edges of it will slice you up big time.
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