Forums FAQForums FAQ   SearchSearch   MemberlistMemberlist   UsergroupsUsergroups   RegisterRegister   ProfileProfile   Login to check your private messagesLogin to check your private messages   LoginLogin 

My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)
Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3 ... 168, 169, 170 ... 339, 340, 341  Next  
This topic is locked you cannot edit posts or make replies    DDR Freak Forum Index -> Bemani Controllers
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
grgisme
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 07 Aug 2004
Location: Melbourne, Florida
3360. PostPosted: Wed Jan 19, 2005 7:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Edit: Shoot I bumped the page, HITOKIRIX: CHECK THE PREVIOUS PAGE FOR THE GRAPHICS.


I'd talk a lot more about stuff with you insanity, but I don't want to go too off topic on the thread, though I feel like since there's less than 10 of us on the thread right now its more like a private chat room, lol. Having a 9 panel pad would probably suit you well then. If I come up with my design on how to light such a pad fast enough I'll let you know. I'm the same level as you on DDR, I know what you mean as for not being a noob and knowing you can be better, just not having the right equipment. (I have two ignition pads, haven't played because I get frustrated with them sliding and coming apart and such, waiting on my metal pads to master heavy). I love PUI too, unfortunately I don't have an xbox, and if I get one it will be unmodded. So I may build my pads with seperate control boxes so I can make it versitile and play on any console, and I'll play PUI off my PC (I currently have problems with the timing when I play with my ps2 pads through 2 different "approved" adapters... it could just be me, or it could be the adapters/program... I have no clue.).
Back to top
View users profile Send private message Send email AOL Instant Messenger
theinsanitytest
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 02 Jan 2005
3361. PostPosted: Wed Jan 19, 2005 7:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i know you don't wan't to thread-jack this so if you wan't to talk to my my SN is well... you guessed

theinsanitytest laugh.gif
Back to top
View users profile Send private message AOL Instant Messenger
ropeadope
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 20 Jul 2004
3362. PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2005 12:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

HitokiriX wrote:
ropeadope wrote:
Is there any specific brand of plywood or tape i should look for? I'm going to do a softpad mod. Just any kind of packing tape will do?


duct tape is best. works on EVERYTHING!!!!! oh and try not to get the cheap plywood that like chips everywhere....but nothing extremely hard either. that makes it really heavy and stuff.


Ok, just look in the Plywood section then i guess? tongue.gif

Does it matter if i go to Lowe's or Home Depot?
Back to top
View users profile Send private message
Rockhopper
Basic Member
Basic Member


Joined: 30 Sep 2004
3363. PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2005 5:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ropeadope wrote:
HitokiriX wrote:
ropeadope wrote:
Is there any specific brand of plywood or tape i should look for? I'm going to do a softpad mod. Just any kind of packing tape will do?


duct tape is best. works on EVERYTHING!!!!! oh and try not to get the cheap plywood that like chips everywhere....but nothing extremely hard either. that makes it really heavy and stuff.


Ok, just look in the Plywood section then i guess? tongue.gif

Does it matter if i go to Lowe's or Home Depot?


Doesn't matter which place you go to, but regardless of the store, ask one of the sale associates if they have any scrap plywood that they'd sell you. There's really no need to buy a full 4' X 8' sheet if all you need is less than 3' X 3'. For my home built pad, I picked up a real nice piece of 3/4" plywood for $4 at Lowes. It's a great way to save some money.


Last edited by Rockhopper on Thu Jan 20, 2005 9:35 am, edited 1 time in total
Back to top
View users profile Send private message
HitokiriX
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 27 Mar 2004
Location: Berwyn, PA
3364. PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2005 6:46 am    Post subject: Re: arrow graphics 3in. Reply with quote

grgisme wrote:
I finished all the arrow graphics, went fast once I had the format. I made all of them a similar size (they were too small for my liking in the original). The border is .35in thick, and .5in away from all sides and corner brackets. NOTE: THESE ARE GRAPHICS FOR PADS WITH 3 INCH CORNER BRACKETS. I'll be making graphics for the standard 2 inch corner brackets probably tommorrow. It'll go quite fast now that I know exactly how to do it and what shortcuts I can take. I'm not posting all the graphics, just East, so you can compare it with the one I already showed you. I'm providing links to the other graphics (so as to not make the post take up a whole page in the forum).

~Grgisme

http://www.geocities.com/grgisme2001/west3in.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/grgisme2001/north3in.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/grgisme2001/south3in.jpg
Here's the link for East, followed by the picture:
http://www.geocities.com/grgisme2001/east3in.jpg



thanks so much grgisme. Sorry I didnt see cartoon_hero's post about the different sizes of corner braces so I didn't know about how there could be both a 3 in. and a 2 in. Now that I think about it the 2 in. does seem a bit more realistic for the graphic. riiight.gif really sorry grgisme. But now that you have the format down for the graphic it should be easy to just change the size right? sorry again....
Back to top
View users profile Send private message AOL Instant Messenger MSN Messenger
5thDementian
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 12 Oct 2004
Location: Kalamazoo, MI
3365. PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2005 9:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you guys/girls seen this:
http://woodpads.tripod.com/

???

They make/sell custom DDR pads. IMHO they are rather unattractive, but I wonder if they're making bank.

They charge $300 per pad which is quite steep. I'm challenged with these types of projects but even I can build pads. I built two of them for under $300. They also say that it's takes about 20 hours to build... WOW. It takes me about 10 (and lord knows that they have to have a lot of practice by now).

I wonder who's design they are using (ddrhomepad, riptide, thepadmaker, etc), or if it's completely custom.
_________________
I FINALLY got my website back up... look at my ddr custom pad pics!!!

View Click here to see the pictures!
Back to top
View users profile Send private message Send email Visit posters website AOL Instant Messenger Yahoo Messenger MSN Messenger
grgisme
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 07 Aug 2004
Location: Melbourne, Florida
3366. PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2005 10:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My first reaction was: LOL!

It looked too fake? Too unattractive and pricy to be real, BUT, I read the site very well, and it actually is a nicer deal than it appears at first.

This part I found funny :-):

We must receive $150 as an initial payment, to cover the cost of materials.

They tell you right there how much profit they're getting, $150. Considering the customer pays for shipping too.

Check this out though, you can tell them how you want the pad, including these things:

* The arrow graphics

* Controller type (Playstation, X-Box, Computer gameport/USB, etc.)

* Type of wood, or we can do sheetmetal on wood so it looks more like an arcade pad.

* Random stuff - we can put handles on the side, or different decorative items around the edges of your choice.

* Buttons on the side. We can either leave the playstation (or whatever) controller in tact to where you will have to push the buttons on it to start the game, or we can mount several switches on the top or the side of the pad for you to hit with your foot for easy access.

They have a ways to go with complete customization though, considering they can't make 6 arrow pads yet, or add the handle bar, or make it with lights or for multiple consoles. I'm thinking about making and selling pads in the future, and its good to know I'd be undercutting SOMEBODY, lol.
Back to top
View users profile Send private message Send email AOL Instant Messenger
ch
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Location: IN UR FORUM POSTING ON UR THRED
3367. PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2005 10:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i'd consider it very easy to put in 6-panel play or multi-console capabilities. lights is a big dilemna, but grgisme is working on that, and a handle bar is very tough to bend and tough to properly secure to the pad.

but overall its a complete rip for everyone reading the thread. if youre reading this thread, you're confident enough in your abilities to make your own pad, and im sure you dont want to spend over $160 for one, much less have "frillies" around the edge. and i wouldnt let people who dress like this build my custom pad.

they appear to be riptide in nature. and the maechanism that holds down the arrow plexi seems strangely insufficient and easily bendable.
_________________
Back to top
View users profile Send private message AOL Instant Messenger
grgisme
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 07 Aug 2004
Location: Melbourne, Florida
3368. PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2005 11:05 am    Post subject: Arrow Graphics Reply with quote

Alright Gentleman, I have completed the 2 in. arrow graphics. But this will be a poll of sorts. Your job is to compare the two different arrow graphics side by side (for example, east3in.jpg and east2in.jpg), and tell me which you prefer. From what I can tell, the "east3in.jpg" looks more like what riptide uses with his 2" brackets than the "east2in.jpg". I like the "3in." graphics better all around, but for now they're all on the internet. Once I get a good grasp on what people prefer though, I'll take down one set and rename the remaining set. I completed this second set in about 20 min., which is pretty good compared to what I went through for the first set, hehe.

Compare these two, and then the links to the rest of new ones follow:

The New "2in" East
or
The Old "3in" East


Here are the links to the rest of the "2in" set: (I'm not going to jack the thread up by posting any here this time).

http://www.geocities.com/grgisme2001/east2in.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/grgisme2001/west2in.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/grgisme2001/north2in.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/grgisme2001/south2in.jpg

~Grgisme

EDIT: I emailed the "3in" ones to the email riptide used to use on this forum, no clue if he still checks it, but if he does perhaps he'll put those on his site.
Back to top
View users profile Send private message Send email AOL Instant Messenger
Yogi
Basic Member
Basic Member


Joined: 19 Jan 2005
3369. PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2005 11:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi everyone! I'm determined to make my own dance pad. I've read quite a bit of this thread and looked over all of the designs, and am probably going with thepadmakers design.

However, I've never built anything like this in my life. I've done a little tiny bit of woodworking, but never anything to do with electronics. That's the part that worries me, is the soldering. So, I have a few questions; I want to make sure I have everything straight in my head before I dive into this, right down to the last detail.

  1. I currently am planning on using my Madcatz beatpad that is PS2 specific (not the one that can play on both xbox and ps2). Does anyone have any experience with this specific "model"? I haven't opened it up yet to look for the soldering points... I was just curious if anyone has worked with this specific pad yet.
  2. I've read some guides on how to solder on the boards (the specific one I have in mind is the one cartoonhero posted in this thread when descibing how he made his alien). They say to drill holes in the board, then stick the wires up through the hole, and solder to the contact. What is the reason for drilling a hole? Is it simply to get the wires to that side of the board without having to go around the board, or is there some specific need to have them? I plan on making my own control box, so I'm wondering if I *have* to drill the holes.
  3. This is another question more for cartoonhero specificly, but I've seen a couple other people use his alien design on their pads, so maybe they can answer this question too. The alien design uses the 4 buttons, I assume they are X, triangle, start, and select?


This thread has already been a huge help to me, I'm glad I found it!
Back to top
View users profile Send private message
HitokiriX
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 27 Mar 2004
Location: Berwyn, PA
3370. PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2005 12:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think the 3 in. graphic seems to be better looking. Maybe riptide just did use 3 in. corner braces. *shrug*
Back to top
View users profile Send private message AOL Instant Messenger MSN Messenger
grgisme
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 07 Aug 2004
Location: Melbourne, Florida
3371. PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2005 12:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hehe :-). No.

Riptide used 2" brackets, but since we have no idea about the dimensions of the graphic it is quite likely he used a graphic similar to my "3in" graphic and that the distance from the corner brackets is larger than from the sides. I think the 3" will look the best, but I won't know until I have my pad and measure it up.

I'm about to rip open a keyboard and check out the encoding inside... I might make a control box for the pc that uses a keyboard's encoder, so I won't have to put up with adapters (important because it will let me draw from the USB port to power my lights). Probably will build the pad with just a ps2 control box first, and add the other funcionality later. I may later on drastically modify my pads to have 9 buttons (if I start playing PUI on stepmania).
Back to top
View users profile Send private message Send email AOL Instant Messenger
peepsluvr
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 09 Jan 2005
3372. PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2005 2:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tomo_kun wrote:
peepsluvr wrote:
I am going to start building a pad soon and just bought a controller for it today, but I can't seem to find the solder points on it. It's a MADCATZ dual force controller that I got for $1.99. Also, do you people have any tips that weren't mentioned in the online guide?


Seriously, I got this controller for my pop'n music controller, and it is *VERY* Complicated. It is *very* hard to see the solder points, and if you scan a picture of the controller, I could maybe help you. Warning, this controller is *hard* to solder to.


I'd like that help now. I think I found the solder points for the directions, but I can't find the ground point. Here is a pic:

http://www.freepgs.com/noodleboy35/indicationcont.JPG

I wrote where i think up, down, left, and right are.
Back to top
View users profile Send private message
ch
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Location: IN UR FORUM POSTING ON UR THRED
3373. PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2005 2:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yogi wrote:

  1. I currently am planning on using my Madcatz beatpad that is PS2 specific (not the one that can play on both xbox and ps2). Does anyone have any experience with this specific "model"? I haven't opened it up yet to look for the soldering points... I was just curious if anyone has worked with this specific pad yet.
  2. I've read some guides on how to solder on the boards (the specific one I have in mind is the one cartoonhero posted in this thread when descibing how he made his alien). They say to drill holes in the board, then stick the wires up through the hole, and solder to the contact. What is the reason for drilling a hole? Is it simply to get the wires to that side of the board without having to go around the board, or is there some specific need to have them? I plan on making my own control box, so I'm wondering if I *have* to drill the holes.
  3. This is another question more for cartoonhero specificly, but I've seen a couple other people use his alien design on their pads, so maybe they can answer this question too. The alien design uses the 4 buttons, I assume they are X, triangle, start, and select?



  1. i'm actually using a madcats ps2 dance pad for my next pad. it's the one with the black control box and blue graphics. the board is identical to the one i put in my pictures; the boards are probably almost the same for every brand on the market, but you should double check to see if the contact mappings i gave are correct. carefully cut off the bottom of your pad and follow the lines from each contact to its respective printed circuit. keep in mind that you're looking at the bottom of your pad, so dont screw up left and right or start and select.

  2. thanks for reading my article! i drilled the holes to make the board much easier to solder. if you just soldered the wire to the top of the contact without drilling, it may not stick as well as if you drilled a hole through the contact first. use the smallest drill you have to drill the holes, and go slow. then, place the bare end of the wire in the hole and solder. it would also help to roughen the surface of the contact to get the copper showing before soldering, to make sure you have a good connection.

  3. The buttons i connected to are X, Select, Start, and O. you can connect them to whichever you like, but these are the ones that i feel are the most necessary for the US PS2 games.


good luck!
_________________


Last edited by ch on Thu Jan 20, 2005 2:37 pm, edited 1 time in total
Back to top
View users profile Send private message AOL Instant Messenger
HitokiriX
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 27 Mar 2004
Location: Berwyn, PA
3374. PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2005 2:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

grgisme wrote:
Hehe :-). No.

Riptide used 2" brackets, but since we have no idea about the dimensions of the graphic it is quite likely he used a graphic similar to my "3in" graphic and that the distance from the corner brackets is larger than from the sides. I think the 3" will look the best, but I won't know until I have my pad and measure it up.


If you watch riptide's videos I think his arrow panels are 11' by 11'. Well it should be really close to that if you build his design perfectly since he uses a 33' by 33' base and divides it into 9 squares so each has to be 11' by 11'. Maybe he had the border a little closer to the edge of the graphic making the diagonal sides longer or something. *shrug* you could always test the 3in. graphic on an arrow panel with 2in. braces and see how it looks...
Back to top
View users profile Send private message AOL Instant Messenger MSN Messenger
ch
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Location: IN UR FORUM POSTING ON UR THRED
3375. PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2005 2:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

peepsluvr: two round points to the left of the led light. i believe you can trace it back to the button.
_________________
Back to top
View users profile Send private message AOL Instant Messenger
ropeadope
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 20 Jul 2004
3376. PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2005 3:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rockhopper wrote:
ropeadope wrote:
HitokiriX wrote:
ropeadope wrote:
Is there any specific brand of plywood or tape i should look for? I'm going to do a softpad mod. Just any kind of packing tape will do?


duct tape is best. works on EVERYTHING!!!!! oh and try not to get the cheap plywood that like chips everywhere....but nothing extremely hard either. that makes it really heavy and stuff.


Ok, just look in the Plywood section then i guess? tongue.gif

Does it matter if i go to Lowe's or Home Depot?


Doesn't matter which place you go to, but regardless of the store, ask one of the sale associates if they have any scrap plywood that they'd sell you. There's really no need to buy a full 4' X 8' sheet if all you need is less than 3' X 3'. For my home built pad, I picked up a real nice piece of 3/4" plywood for $4 at Lowes. It's a great way to save some money.


Ok, i'll have to go have a look this weekend. Will the Plywood be slippery at all by default? I want to make sure it doesn't move at all. I'm playing on a hardwood floor.
Back to top
View users profile Send private message
peepsluvr
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 09 Jan 2005
3377. PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2005 4:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cartoonhero_604 wrote:
peepsluvr: two round points to the left of the led light. i believe you can trace it back to the button.


Are you sure that is it? I think there is another point on that same line, on the right side of the controller.

Can I do a test like touch a wire on the ground and then touch a directional button?
Back to top
View users profile Send private message
grgisme
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 07 Aug 2004
Location: Melbourne, Florida
3378. PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2005 5:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:

Can I do a test like touch a wire on the ground and then touch a directional button?


Yes a test like that should work, if you plug the controller in, stick in a game (ddr would be fine), and then touch a wire from one of the directional points to the hypothetical ground point. (Someone please correct me if I'm wrong here, lets not confuse this poor boy.) Or plug in the controller, turn on the ps2 (doesn't matter if a game is in), and use a multimeter to touch the red to the any directional contact and the black to the various contacts until you get a voltage of some sort, that's your ground point. I know this works because I've done it.

Quote:
Will the Plywood be slippery at all by default? I want to make sure it doesn't move at all. I'm playing on a hardwood floor.

If you check out the walkthroughs and such you'll notice that most tell you to cut up a mouse pad or buy a type of non-slip pad that you glue on to the bottom of the pad so it doesn't slide anywhere on hardwood. Push down on your mouse pad with one hand and try to move it with the other -- you'll see why they use cut up mouse pads.
Back to top
View users profile Send private message Send email AOL Instant Messenger
ch
Trick Member
Trick Member


Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Location: IN UR FORUM POSTING ON UR THRED
3379. PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2005 5:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

you dont even have to stick a game in.

if you have a multimeter, set it to ohms, and jack into the + and - jacks. touch the leads to the hypothetical ground point and the ground half of the button. if theres a circuit between them, the meter should read no resistance, i.e., a jump of the needle. you could do this with all hypothetical ground points.

i would try to see if the metal around the border is a ground. that would be less of a risk of harming the board when soldering, because you're not putting heat directly on the chips.



ropeadope: you know that thin holey spongy material that you can put underneath a carpet to keep it from sliding around? try stapling some of that to the bottom when you're done. you can also get it in rolls cut for shelves, if you want to get a smaller amount.
_________________
Back to top
View users profile Send private message AOL Instant Messenger
Display posts from previous:   
This topic is locked you cannot edit posts or make replies    DDR Freak Forum Index -> Bemani Controllers All times are GMT - 8 Hours
Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3 ... 168, 169, 170 ... 339, 340, 341  Next
Page 169 of 341

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum


Powered by phpBB 2 © 2001, 2002 phpBB Group