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My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)
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adamthole
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3280. PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2005 5:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am just curious as to why you guys don't use counter sink screws, and counter sink them into the sheet metal?
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ch
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3281. PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2005 12:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the screws on the arcade pads are domed, and i think that countersunk screws would catch on shoes more. original designs of pads were made to look just like arcade pads, but now they are leaning towards inexpensiveness.
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HitokiriX
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3282. PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2005 2:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't really know what countersink screws are, but what I have been thinking of is using flat head screws on the arrows instead of those round headed ones (i'm not using padmaker's design so the screws would be for corner braces like in riptide's). Also, when screwing on the metal panels I would screw attach them with screws from the bottom of the pad so I don't have to screw through the sheet metal. It also gives a better look to the pad in my opinion.
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ch
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3283. PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2005 3:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

would you just use glue to hold the metal on the plywood panels?
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peepsluvr
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3284. PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2005 4:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am going to start building a pad soon and just bought a controller for it today, but I can't seem to find the solder points on it. It's a MADCATZ dual force controller that I got for $1.99. Also, do you people have any tips that weren't mentioned in the online guide?
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ropeadope
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3285. PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2005 6:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So anyone know the hell the chair mat mod is?

Also, where's a good place to buy the wood, and about how much will it cost?
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Tomo_kun
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3286. PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2005 8:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

peepsluvr wrote:
I am going to start building a pad soon and just bought a controller for it today, but I can't seem to find the solder points on it. It's a MADCATZ dual force controller that I got for $1.99. Also, do you people have any tips that weren't mentioned in the online guide?


Seriously, I got this controller for my pop'n music controller, and it is *VERY* Complicated. It is *very* hard to see the solder points, and if you scan a picture of the controller, I could maybe help you. Warning, this controller is *hard* to solder to.
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thepadmaker
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3287. PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2005 8:48 pm    Post subject: Counter Sunk Screws Reply with quote

There is no problem with using counter sunk screws if you don't mind buying some extra plex. It requires some special drilling (to allow the head of the screw to sit flush). Plex doesn't like to be drilled at all, let alone "precision" drilling. It grabs, snaps, cracks, breaks, etc.

Anyway, good luck.
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ch
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3288. PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2005 8:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the chairmat mod is where you duct tape a softpad to a desk chair mat.

the chairmat has little spikes on the bottom to sink into carpet to keep it from moving. if you duct tape the pad to this, and use it on carpet, it will prevent it from sliding around as much as if you used the pad on carpet alone.

this is similar to the duct tape + plywood mod, only for carpet.

i suppose you could also screw a chairmat to the bottom of your hardpad, but this would make it harder to transport if you dont have handles on it.
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adamthole
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3289. PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2005 9:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay, I wasn't aware the original machines had domed screw heads. I thought the top was meant to be as smooth as possible for slides or something.

I've seen it mentioned in here, but I can't find the actual link (if there is one) on how to make a pad with lights. Is there a link, or a file I would need to be PM'd with? Also, when you press on a section, the light under that section turns on. It that how it is supposed to work? Is that how the original works?

Thanks.
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peepsluvr
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3290. PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2005 9:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tomo_kun wrote:
peepsluvr wrote:
I am going to start building a pad soon and just bought a controller for it today, but I can't seem to find the solder points on it. It's a MADCATZ dual force controller that I got for $1.99. Also, do you people have any tips that weren't mentioned in the online guide?


Seriously, I got this controller for my pop'n music controller, and it is *VERY* Complicated. It is *very* hard to see the solder points, and if you scan a picture of the controller, I could maybe help you. Warning, this controller is *hard* to solder to.


I think I found the solder points, but it looks like there is some solder on it already but I don't think that should be a problem. All I have to do is add on, right? And I asked my dad and he said he'll help me with it.
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adamthole
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3291. PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2005 9:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know anything about that particular controller, but therre would be solder on the solder points.
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peepsluvr
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3292. PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2005 9:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

adamthole wrote:
I don't know anything about that particular controller, but therre would be solder on the solder points.


I can just solder on top of it then, right?
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ch
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3293. PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2005 10:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

adamthole wrote:
I've seen it mentioned in here, but I can't find the actual link (if there is one) on how to make a pad with lights.


there exists a schematic that i found and duplicated before it got lost in the middle of the thread. it alows a led to be activated whenever a current flows through a particular wire:


all of the variables are EXTREMELY variable.
d1 is your led, with a maximum amperage voltage requirement.
r1 limits the amperage of the circuit to that amperage.
t1 is a transistor of unknown specs.
s1 is your arrow.
s2 is an on-off switch for the circuit.

if you can figure out a configuration that works, please post it and i will include it in my sketch. this requires a lot of experimentation with electronics and such, so if you are uncomfortable in that subject, you'll have to wait a few months until i finish my circutry course in college. then ill be able to give you precise numbers.




p.s. for a controller, directly underneath where the controller button is is where the solder points are.
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1nphas3n
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3294. PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2005 1:32 am    Post subject: Sensitivity question Reply with quote

Hello everyone, I just got done building pad and was wondering why i have to step so hard for the pad to register? I had to get 3/4'' wide 5/16'' thick weatherstriping instead of 1/4 inch thick, 1/2 inch wide. That's probably why but i was wondering if there was anything i could do? I'm hoping it will just compress down after a bit of playing.. Any suggestions?
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adamthole
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3295. PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2005 6:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is definetly your weatherstripping. The best idea would to get the thinner weatherstripping, but if you cannot do that, try to raise your bottom contact.
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adamthole
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3296. PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2005 6:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

peepsluvr wrote:
adamthole wrote:
I don't know anything about that particular controller, but therre would be solder on the solder points.


I can just solder on top of it then, right?


Yes, solder right on top of them.

Also, I was wondering if anyone has made a pad that had 6 buttons instead of just the four arrows? It would have the X and O buttons also. I know I have seen some with pushbuttons, but are there any that have the X and O the same as the other buttons (up, down, left right) ?
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Rockhopper
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3297. PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2005 7:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just finished my pad (well, except for the border). It works great. Thanks to all who have contributed (DDRHomepad, Riptide & Padmaker). I pretty much used Padmaker's design but I went for a 9 panel pad rather than the standard 4. Since I use Stepmania exclusively, I figured I'd try out some pump it up as well. Of course about an hour after I got it done and started testing it I broke the connector off of my USB cable drool.gif . Anyways, here are some pics:


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HitokiriX
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3298. PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2005 8:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

cartoonhero_604 wrote:
would you just use glue to hold the metal on the plywood panels?


yes i would be just glueing the sheet metal to the wood square. I think this was what was described in the tutorial on how to make the "perfect solid panel". do you think it would break off eventually or sumthing?
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HitokiriX
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3299. PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2005 8:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

adamthole wrote:
peepsluvr wrote:
adamthole wrote:
I don't know anything about that particular controller, but therre would be solder on the solder points.


I can just solder on top of it then, right?


Yes, solder right on top of them.

Also, I was wondering if anyone has made a pad that had 6 buttons instead of just the four arrows? It would have the X and O buttons also. I know I have seen some with pushbuttons, but are there any that have the X and O the same as the other buttons (up, down, left right) ?


I had the same idea a while ago. People probably have built 6 or 8 arrow panel pads, but they just don't post it here since the extra 2-4 arrow panels for start, select, triangle, and X are just like extremely large pushbuttons.

Also, building a 6 arrow panel pad would mean you won't be adding X or triangle arrow panels which means now japanese version DDR and no cancelling actions while playing any DDR version. Building an 8 panel pad means you get one solid panel to step on and in my opinion that's just not a good way to stand on the pad.

Pushbuttons are the closest thing to have when trying to imitate arcade style pads, which is what the older generation of pad builders were trying to do (not saying they were old or anything...just saying they have different values when building a pad). Making extra arrow panels is very easy to do, but sometimes a little more expensive than some would like and even a little impractical at times.
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