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thepadmaker Trick Member
Joined: 16 Dec 2004 Location: Grand Rapids, MI |
3120. Posted: Tue Dec 28, 2004 10:17 am Post subject: Weatherstripping |
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Well, if you "tune" your pad when you build it, the weather stripping should last almost forever. If you've built your pad correctly, you shouldn't have very much movement in the arrows. I have finally got to go to the arcade and play the actual game. Those buttons don't even feel like they move at all. It's like they work by "MAGIC". When you build your pad, figure about a 1/16"-1/8" max movement. You would really have to stomp to move an arrow more than that.
I built mine for about a 1/16" of travel. Then once the pad was completly together, I tightened the arrows(one at a time, so do this process for all four arrows individually) ALL THE WAY DOWN. FORCE THE ARROW TO MAKE CONTINUOUS CONTACT. Then loosen your corner screws 1/4 turn each (1/4 turn on one screw, then a 1/4 turn on the next screw, then the next, etc.), until the arrow quits making contact.
Obviously I can't see underneath my arrows, but if I could, I bet you could barely fit a business card between my contacts.
This means MINIMUM movement. Best response possible, and most important, minimal wear on the weather stripping.
Hope that helps...
Chris
http://www.2legacy.com/ddrpad/ _________________
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daitenshi Trick Member
Joined: 11 May 2004
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3121. Posted: Tue Dec 28, 2004 11:05 am Post subject: |
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bah, I was misunderstood, sorry.
From DDRHOMEPAD's site:
When your pad is brand new, the arrows might feel spongy
and not sensitive enough. But after many hours of playing,
the weatherstripping starts to wear out and the pad becomes
very sensitive.
I'm meaning, how long does this generally take?
edit: oh and mine has a bit less than 1/8" travel... the problem here is the stripping is being too resistant. |
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thepadmaker Trick Member
Joined: 16 Dec 2004 Location: Grand Rapids, MI |
3122. Posted: Tue Dec 28, 2004 12:58 pm Post subject: Weather stripping |
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Did you use the high density, or the low.
I used low density on mine, because I was compacting the 1/2" Foam down to 1/4"
They say that cutting slots in the high density foam will relieve some the pressure. I don't know. Never had the problem. Mine worked like they do right now from the get go.
Chris
http://www.2legacy.com/ddrpad/ _________________
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ch Trick Member
Joined: 01 Oct 2004 Location: IN UR FORUM POSTING ON UR THRED |
3123. Posted: Tue Dec 28, 2004 3:13 pm Post subject: |
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the high density foam doesnt compress enough for this application, get the open cell foam.
it should feel too light when you buy it
i had to cut my closed cell in half, and it still wasnt compressing enough!!! _________________
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cartoonhero29 Trick Member
Joined: 27 Jul 2004
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3124. Posted: Tue Dec 28, 2004 5:44 pm Post subject: |
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lol this has nothing to do with the thread but....
GO CARTOON HEROES!!!!!!!!!!!!!! XD _________________
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coN Basic Member
Joined: 30 May 2003
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3125. Posted: Tue Dec 28, 2004 11:33 pm Post subject: |
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Just curious padmaker, i think your design is the best ive seen but what are the measurements to your pads and the components of the pad? (arrow panels, metal panels, etc)
Are the measurements the same as the one shown @ ddrhomepads site?
Last question is, what is the anatomy of your arrow panels?
- 1/8 Lexan
- Arrow graphic
- 1/8 Lexan
- Aluminum Screen
(I guessed here.)
Thanks alot. _________________
Uhhh... What? |
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thepadmaker Trick Member
Joined: 16 Dec 2004 Location: Grand Rapids, MI |
3126. Posted: Wed Dec 29, 2004 7:56 am Post subject: Sizes |
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Thanks for the comments...
I guess in all the excitement, I forgot to put dimensions on there.
All of the squares are 10 7/8" sq. Including the plex and the wood for the arrows. When I assembled the pad I used a small spacer in between all the pieces so that there could be no hang-ups. (I used 2 bicycle playing cards)
The anatomy of my arrows is...
1/8" plex
Arrow Graphic
1/2" Plywood
Aluminum Screen
If you have any questions, please let me know.
Thanks,
Chris
http://www.2legacy.com/ddrpad/ _________________
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coN Basic Member
Joined: 30 May 2003
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3127. Posted: Wed Dec 29, 2004 12:04 pm Post subject: |
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Oh ok. Thanks. I myself like the Stanley corner braces. Can they still be used for this pad design? It is possible to use some of the aluminum or 26 gauge sheet metal to sub for the aluminum screen? And what are the dimensions of the bottom plywood panel of the pad?
Good thing i got a router. Im gonna route the wood like you did for your pad. _________________
Uhhh... What? |
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thepadmaker Trick Member
Joined: 16 Dec 2004 Location: Grand Rapids, MI |
3128. Posted: Wed Dec 29, 2004 1:46 pm Post subject: |
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The thing with using the corner brackets is that you have to cut the corners of your arrows. Follow the instruction for my first pad (I used those brackets) Just instead of using a 2x4 base, use the base that I used on my last two pads. You should be able to modify my design enough to make the corner brackets work.
Chris
http://www.2legacy.com/ddrpad _________________
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Ulala321 Trick Member
Joined: 28 Sep 2004
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3129. Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2004 12:56 am Post subject: |
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Hey guys, I'm about to tear up my softpad to solder my contacts to its control board. Any tips I need to know about cutting it up or can I just hack away to get the black box off? |
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thepadmaker Trick Member
Joined: 16 Dec 2004 Location: Grand Rapids, MI |
3130. Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2004 5:53 am Post subject: |
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Depending on which soft pad it is, you should be able to just turn some screws and take it apart.
MadCatz pad has about 8 screws on the backside, then two more once you take the front cover off.
If your pad has no screws, then I'd say cut away.
Chris
http://www.2legacy.com/ddrpad _________________
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ch Trick Member
Joined: 01 Oct 2004 Location: IN UR FORUM POSTING ON UR THRED |
3131. Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2004 9:50 am Post subject: |
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padz all done!!!
drilled holes in the softpad board case for buttons (looks like a lil 4li3n)
its quite a bit buggy, i dont know whats up with that. i hold down the up arrow and it may work fine, it may make repeated steps, it may give a boo. ill realign the screws and see if that works.
for softpads, just unscew the back and peel the tape off.
SORRY ULALA I DIDNT TAKE VIDEOS!!!! i will take a video of my friends pad being built. _________________
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thepadmaker Trick Member
Joined: 16 Dec 2004 Location: Grand Rapids, MI |
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Ulala321 Trick Member
Joined: 28 Sep 2004
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3133. Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2004 5:55 pm Post subject: |
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Okay, I've opened up the control box.. it's a Kanomi X-Box pad, and I think I see the solder points, but I'm not sure which point corresponds to which button. Has anyone done an X-Box pad that could help me out? Thanks! |
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mtwieg Trick Member
Joined: 06 Sep 2004 Location: Ù
٠اÙÙØ§Ø¶Ø Ø§ÙÙ Ùا اعب اÙجÙÙÙ |
3134. Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2004 8:16 pm Post subject: |
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Ulala321 wrote: | Okay, I've opened up the control box.. it's a Kanomi X-Box pad, and I think I see the solder points, but I'm not sure which point corresponds to which button. Has anyone done an X-Box pad that could help me out? Thanks! |
i don't have a pic, but it's not hard to find the points by experimentation. Just look at the circuit board and try touching the contacts together until you find the ground. Then, connect the ground to each of the other contacts and see what the output is. _________________
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71custom Basic Member
Joined: 10 Jul 2004
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3135. Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2004 9:16 pm Post subject: |
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thePadmaker, I have to say that I LOVE your design. I finished a DDR homepad design a while ago, works beautifully, but yours is sooooo much simpler. I haven't visited the board in a while, but since I just got Extreme I've started playing more, so forgive me if this has already been answered. I was wondering if you actually made a Tutorial for your design. If you did, awesome and could you point me in the right direction, if not, then I guess I'll analyze the pics on your site. Either way, I still LOVE your design. (I'm gonna try and shoot you an email, so sorry if you read this twice.) |
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thepadmaker Trick Member
Joined: 16 Dec 2004 Location: Grand Rapids, MI |
3136. Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2004 9:31 pm Post subject: |
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I am currently working on better instructions for my newest pads. I will actually be video taping it after the 1st of the year.
If you read a little farther down my web page, you will start to find instructions for the second pad(second and third pad are the same design except for the controller box). I am working on some drawings and text that I will be able to e-mail to anyone who wants them in the next few days. I should be finished with it by Sunday. It goes into better detail on how I built mine.
I hope some of this made sense. Talk to you all soon.
Chris
http://www.2legacy.com/ddrpad/ _________________
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SuRfReAk Trick Member
Joined: 19 Dec 2004
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hirme Basic Member
Joined: 17 Oct 2004
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3138. Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2004 10:22 pm Post subject: |
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Quote: | If you used 1/2" plywood for the arrows, what did you use for the non-arrows to make the same dimensions? Obviously you didn't just use aluminum flashing, 1/2" plywood, then the braces; so......? |
probably 5/8" plywood lol _________________
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spiike32 Basic Member
Joined: 28 Nov 2004
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3139. Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2004 10:37 pm Post subject: |
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i need some help
I'm trying to solder wires to a madcats controller but not sure how to do so. I've gone through about half the pages in this thread and still have yet to find detail instructions. Teh video links are down. I have video 1-4 but i'm assuming 5 has the one with soldering to the controller. Do I need to solder a ground wire? what if i just solder 2 wires to each button which connects to an rca adapter. and the pads have 2 wires that connect to the rca adapter, and you just connect the 2 rca adapters.
Also to wire teh controller should i use cat5? I have an abundant amount of 24 guage, is that too thick?
please help. thanks guys. |
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