My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)

ch · Posted: Thu Dec 16, 2004 8:37 pm Post subject:

the fine gray dust is either dust (sparking electronics attract dust) or oxidation from the sheet metal. thats why i intend to use brass L brackets.

i dont know why that would stop the registration timing, but hey. i havent done it yet.

a new idea for contacts, how bout a whisker microswitch in the middle (or four around the edges)? then you wont have to worry about the contacts smashing against each other and forming dust. but theyre expensive, about $6 each.
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uelrindru · Trick Member Joined: 08 Dec 2004 Location: NY

I don't know a lot about electrical but wouldn't the fried controller problem be solved by splitting a ground from the controller and soldering it to the pad itself?
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HitokiriX · Trick Member Joined: 27 Mar 2004 Location: Berwyn, PA

thepadmaker · Posted: Fri Dec 17, 2004 9:35 am Post subject: My new pad!

My pad is done. I have put up a website to show everyone what I think improvements I've made. Take a look at it, and let me know what you think. As far as performance, it kicks butt! Literally activated by the weight of a shoe.

My next design will eliminate corner brackets and thin the unit down to 1 1/2" thick.

Thanks everyone whose designs and ideas helped me so much.

Chris

http://www.2legacy.com/ddrpad/

Also, don't be afraid of aluminum sheeting. It's way cheaper. It looks better. Most important, It conducts electricity better. No you can't solder to it, but you can rivet the tar out of it.

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mtwieg · Posted: Fri Dec 17, 2004 1:19 pm Post subject:

ch · Posted: Fri Dec 17, 2004 4:28 pm Post subject:

thepadmaker · Posted: Sun Dec 19, 2004 9:09 pm Post subject: The New Home Built Design

Okay....

As I said I would in my last posting, I have created the new metal home build. No offense to any of the previous designs, but I believe this to be the best build available. There have been so many myths about how this had to be done. I have crushed them all. I have created a pad with NO CORNER BRACKETS!!!! It's 1 1/2" thick, and weighs about 30 pounds.

The best part is that it can built for less than $115.

Please check it out on the web at:

http://www.2legacy.com/ddrpad/

I look forward to everyones comments, so please feel free.
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hirme · Basic Member Joined: 17 Oct 2004

nice job for the bracket...but I still think that keeping the bending of metal around the wood is better because there is no danger to get your feet, shoes or whatever cut by the rough cut...
dont know if I was clear...

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thepadmaker · Posted: Mon Dec 20, 2004 7:20 am Post subject:

There are no rough edges if you do it right. I figured it out by accident. Somewhere back in the begining of this forum, someone made a comment about making the perfect panel. He said to score it a couple of times then bend it around the corner. I scored it a couple of times, but when I went to bend it, it broke. First I was pissed off, then after I looked at I noticed it was a perfect break. No rough edge, not even a sharp edge. I still ran the file over all edges just to make sure, but it's great.

Thanks for the comments.

Check my web page again later today (or after) I will post pics of how I did the wiring.

http://www.2legacy.com/ddrpad/
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joshuass · Basic Member Joined: 03 Aug 2003

Ugh. I pulled my pad out to play on it again. and its dead.. nothing from the contacts at all. Its most likely the controller but Ive never heard of a controller going dead from lack of use? However, I do have a new slimline ps2. So I dont know if that has something to do with it. Now I have to find and rewire a replacement. What a hassle heh.
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SuRfReAk · Trick Member Joined: 19 Dec 2004

[color=blue]I've built my first pad, and it works like a charm. No problems...perfect. I was thinking about lighting the next one, but I can't seem to find a good link with a decent wiring diagram/instructions on how to attach the lights. Links anyone?[/color]
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HitokiriX · Trick Member Joined: 27 Mar 2004 Location: Berwyn, PA

SuRfReAk · Trick Member Joined: 19 Dec 2004

Alright, Alright. Don't make fun of retarded kids

. I dont understand any of the diagrams on the last few pages, and a Patser link from an older page wont work for me. Oh well, i don't think im going to use lights anyway (time+money=BAD!). Thanks anyways though.
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ch · Posted: Tue Dec 21, 2004 2:58 pm Post subject:

t3hp4dm4k3r!!!!

l33t pad.

ppl bent their aluminum over because cutting it right along the edge was a hassle, and difficult. a clean break sounds efficient, and if you break it while bending down, the edge curls down a little so you dont catch on it. 8R1LLI4NC3!!!

but i like the look of corner brackets. so they stay.

finished pad within one month!!!
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CStarFlare wrote:

I approve of the direction this thread is going

http://www.xtranormal.com/watch?e=20090310025322668

mtwieg · Posted: Tue Dec 21, 2004 3:41 pm Post subject:

padmaker, when you say a 'roll' of aluminum, are you referring to thin aluminum flahing? if so, i don't get how you can break it, since it's so thin and flexible. I'm still undecided on whether my next pad should have bachets or not... it would make things a whole lot easier, but it's just not authentic.... oh, and what material is that under the plexiglass.
also, I would like to see what wiring methods you used.
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thepadmaker · Posted: Tue Dec 21, 2004 4:20 pm Post subject: Yes, Rolled Aluminum Flashing

It is very thin, but it holds fine. I beat the crap out my pad. I am on it for about 3 hours a day. This is my second one with rolled aluminum, and no problems.

To each his own with the corner brackets. Maybe if someone could find one that didn't look like "door" hardware. I just think it's a much cleaner look without the big ugly stanley brackets.

I have 1/2" plywood sanded one side under the 1/8" plex.

Wiring pictures are now completed on my site. Please feel free to take a look. I'm sure if the aluminum flashing suprised you, then the Aluminum Screen (as in screen doors) will really get ya.

I don't make the products you dance on..... I make them better. Oh, that's BASF never mind....

http://www.2legacy.com/ddrpad/
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mtwieg · Posted: Tue Dec 21, 2004 9:34 pm Post subject: Re: Yes, Rolled Aluminum Flashing

thepadmaker

I made the recessed hole with a router using a 1/2 inch staight cutter (I think it's called a "flute"). I set the depth at a 1/2" and just kept going back and forth until I removed as much as I needed to. You don't see it in any pictures (because I forget to take them), but I had to add a small recess on the right side of the front too, so I could accomodate the buttons.

The wire is just #18-2 bare copper thermostat wire.

To answer your question about the border....

Technically no, the arrows stay fine because of the screws, but....

YES! I do think that if your going to build a pad you have to finish it. The difference between a pad that "looks homemade", and homemade pad that "looks professional" is the border. I've actually had to pause on the pad building for a minute to finish some furniture orders for X-Mas. As soon as my border is done, I will post pics.

On a previous post you asked about how I break the tabs off the aluminum. Score it, score it, and then score it again. By the time you take a (because I don't know it's technical term I'm going to make one up) Stanley Retractable Razor Cutter and run it along the underside edge of the aluminum 3 times, you're almost all the way through it. Then you simply just bend the flaps up just like you would if you were wrapping the edges, and it will break off.

That's it.

Chris

http://www.2legacy.com/ddrpad/
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http://www.2legacy.com/ddrpad/
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mtwieg · Posted: Wed Dec 22, 2004 9:51 am Post subject:

ok ok, two more questions

How much does it weigh total?
Also, it seems from your instructions that the arrow panels are pretty thick (1/8" plex + 1/2" wood + about 1/8" contact screws). about how much is the height difference between the arrows and the metal panels? I ask this because I like a bit of difference so I can feel where I am, unlike on most third party metal pads such as the cobalt flux.
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ch · Posted: Wed Dec 22, 2004 10:29 am Post subject:

do your arrows travel ok? i ask because the screw threads in the corners seem to rub against the plexi and catch and stuff.

or are the threads further down the shaft like machine screws, so theyre smooth at the top?
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CStarFlare wrote:

I approve of the direction this thread is going

http://www.xtranormal.com/watch?e=20090310025322668