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My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)
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Heffenfeffer
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Location: Las Cruces, NM
2960. PostPosted: Mon Nov 22, 2004 3:21 pm    Post subject: Completion! (Or milestone. Something like that.) Reply with quote

Hey folks, just dropping in to announce that I've completed my homebuilt pad! Pictures and all are forthcoming. I dunno if I'll build another one for doubles or not yet - this little "should take a month" project has taken up nearly nine months of time.

Lessons learned:

1) For the love of caramel, use a softpad control board (or ground your pad)! I've lost no less than five controllers, each taking less than a minute to fry, due to static electricity.

2) Jigsaws are your friend. It's damn hard to cut through sheet metal with tin snips, and it leaves a whole bunch of jagged edges. Save yourself a little trouble and get (or borrow) a jigsaw with a metal-cut blade. Same goes for plexiglass (just be sure to back off a bit to keep the plexi from melting into glue.)

3) Read the plans throroughly before you do stuff. I've got a few nicely drilled holes in my pad for stuff that I later found had to be moved, and a few raggedly put holes in my pad for holes that I found had to be put in after stuff was bolted together, preventing me from getting a good angle to work the drill with. Oh yeah, and the drill has become my new best friend - it's a hole-maker and high-speed screwdriver all in one!

4) Careful with the sautering iron - a couple of waves of it caused several of my wires to fuse together. On the plus side, I learned that once I seperated them, I could just splash on a little latex paint to cover them up again.

5) Test, test, test. Near the end, everything was working but the down arrow. I unscrewed the panel holding the control box open, the metal pad-section above it, and plugged in the iron before deciding to check with a multimeter - then I discovered that I put the metal-with-plexi panel upside down so that the metal was on top. So, yeah, ten minutes of panic followed by ten minutes of my putting all the wires back in and calling myself a doofus.

At the moment, it's working fine, though, I need to adjust the sensitivity - stepping on the bottom-right metal panel causes Right to be triggered. Ah well, that's for another day. Now I can finally beat Have You Never Been Mellow, a thorn in my side for nearly three years!
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cb_epyon
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2961. PostPosted: Mon Nov 22, 2004 5:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.angelfire.com/d20/ddrhomepad/metalonpeg.html that will give u an idea of what im talking about. the foam is the 4 white things around the corners. im not sure if i should make sure its 3/16'' or if i could just use the 2 mm foam.
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ch
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2962. PostPosted: Mon Nov 22, 2004 5:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

congrats heffenfeffer! i wanna c ur picz!

cb, the foam core is only there to keep the lucite from hitting the wood when you bottom out the arrow. i think 2mm would work fine. or, you could use a mousepad, like he said.
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Heffenfeffer
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2963. PostPosted: Wed Nov 24, 2004 8:51 pm    Post subject: Almost there... Reply with quote

Hey again folks! Welp, after a couple hours on the pad (finally! Taking time away from building a pad and asking questions on it to, you know, actually play DDR for once!) I seem to have hit my first snag - the down arrow is wayyyy too sensitive! It's so sensitive that if it accidentally calls me stupid and then buys me ten pounds of chocolate and half of Flowerama's stock. Not only that, but it also responds to a hair trigger, it also sometimes it doesn't come back up in time to react to the next step - hence, quick repeated 1/8th notes are missed.

So can anyone that had this problem of too much sensitivity (right up there with being too rich or having too much time on your hands) help me out?

Thanks!

Pictures are still forthcoming - This is the busiest Thanksgiving Weekend ever...
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Ravenwing
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2964. PostPosted: Thu Nov 25, 2004 11:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would recommend increasing the distance between the arrow and the ground trigger. Either that, or use a denser material, so it takes more pressure to make contact.
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Silvesti
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2965. PostPosted: Thu Nov 25, 2004 12:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm currently using Riptide's design which has been great! However, I'm having some issues with the controller. Here is my setup:

PS1 controller
RedOctane Dual USB Adapter

To test these connections I use WinXP and go to: Start->Settings->Control Panel->Game Options->Properties

When I step on an arrow the button will turn on in the Properties window. So here is what happens:

Registers fine
Left
Right
Up
Down
Left + up
Left +down
Right + up
Right +down

Has problems
Left + right // right button flickers and is not solid
Up + down // down button flickers and is not solid

Anyone else run into this flicker problem? The individual buttons seem to work fine. They also work fine in pairs as long as it is NOT it's opposite. Any suggestions?

Thanks for all your comments!
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moonmen0
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2966. PostPosted: Thu Nov 25, 2004 5:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hey Silvesti what program are you using for you adapter? and did you do the start select and up to activate the box?
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HitokiriX
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2967. PostPosted: Thu Nov 25, 2004 5:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For the first month that i had DDR Konamix and didn't have my metal CG pad I played with my controller. What I learned was that the circular buttons act as directional buttons too just like the d pad arrow buttons. you could attach the directional arrow buttons on your pad to the contacts for the square, triangle, x and circle buttons. unfortunately if you do this you can't use the triangle button contact for a cancel button or play any japanese ddr games since you need the x button as an enter button in the japanese versions.
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Silvesti
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2968. PostPosted: Thu Nov 25, 2004 7:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

moonmen0 wrote:
hey Silvesti what program are you using for you adapter? and did you do the start select and up to activate the box?


I'm using StepMania and yes I did do the "Start + Select + Up" arrow thing. Everything seems to register properly from what I can see except up+down and left+right.

HitokiriX wrote:
For the first month that i had DDR Konamix and didn't have my metal CG pad I played with my controller. What I learned was that the circular buttons act as directional buttons too just like the d pad arrow buttons. you could attach the directional arrow buttons on your pad to the contacts for the square, triangle, x and circle buttons. unfortunately if you do this you can't use the triangle button contact for a cancel button or play any japanese ddr games since you need the x button as an enter button in the japanese versions.


That interesting. I'll definitely look into moving it to the other buttons. Thanks!
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moonmen0
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2969. PostPosted: Thu Nov 25, 2004 8:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i dont know whats up, but when i was setting up my pad, i built a parallel adapter and it works great except that it kind slowed down my computer but other than that, (i am using psx pad) when i go into the setup i cant do up and down and left and right, but in stepmania i ahve no problems.
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hirme
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2970. PostPosted: Thu Nov 25, 2004 8:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Has problems
Left + right // right button flickers and is not solid
Up + down // down button flickers and is not solid


you are using a controller right?
I got the same problem with my xbox controller...
when you think about it, its logic...with the dpad, you can't go right and left at the same time, same as bottom and top...
there is no solution to solve that...simply buy the cheapest softpad you can find and use the control board.
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ch
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2971. PostPosted: Thu Nov 25, 2004 8:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

parallel port adapters have no problem with any of the opposite direction buttons. thats y i built one and posted instructions for others to do! its only a few bucks, ppl! usb adapters are scewey!
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moonmen0
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2972. PostPosted: Thu Nov 25, 2004 8:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

there is no reason to build your own unless you are into that, because you can buy them online for cheaper than you can buy the controller extension
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Silvesti
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2973. PostPosted: Fri Nov 26, 2004 9:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hirme wrote:
you are using a controller right?
I got the same problem with my xbox controller...
when you think about it, its logic...with the dpad, you can't go right and left at the same time, same as bottom and top...
there is no solution to solve that...simply buy the cheapest softpad you can find and use the control board.


Thanks for your thoughts hirme, I was wondering if it was a dpad issue or not. I decided to try the dpad route becuase I purchased two softpad's before and didn't seem to have any luck with them. One never seemed to work after I soldered it and on the other, the solder wouldn't stick to the board. Maybe the third time is the charm. E13.gif I'll look into giving the softpads another try.

Thanks again all!
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hirme
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2974. PostPosted: Fri Nov 26, 2004 10:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

if the solder isn't sticking to hit, try using a crewdriver to peel a bit where you are going to solder...
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Ulala321
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2975. PostPosted: Sun Nov 28, 2004 1:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cartoonhero_604 wrote:
ulala, to put it simply:

theres a wire attached (soldered or taped or whatever) to the metal on the lucite, and a wire attached to the metal on the base. one of these wires, it doesnt matter which, goes the the common ground on your controller, along with all the other grounds. the other wire, from the other contact, goes to the individual button contact on the controller. when these two contacts touch, its like pressing the button, so you have one wire on one side and one on the other. i hope this helps!

if it doesnt, ill be making a video within the next month (i dunno if you can wait that long) about soldering a controller, because so many ppl ask about it.


Cool, I think I get it. Is there a best way to solder the contacts? A simple picture could be really helpful. I have this one:

http://server3.uploadit.org/files/Ulala321-twopanels3.jpg

and this one:

http://server2.uploadit.org/files/Ulala321-topfinal.jpg

which show wiring of some sort, but niether are very helpful to me. Would anyone happen to have a picture that explains it a little better? Thanks! E1.gif
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zambi
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2976. PostPosted: Sun Nov 28, 2004 2:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a problem, I messed up a bit with the directions and have to work with this another pic: here I have to fill 1 1/2 inches of space for the arrows. Any ideas?
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DarkDragon696
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2977. PostPosted: Sun Nov 28, 2004 6:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know there are a couple people that have the arrow graphics posted on this post but how do i go about getting them onto paper thats the right size???? thankx
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mtwieg
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2978. PostPosted: Sun Nov 28, 2004 6:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

zambi wrote:
I have a problem, I messed up a bit with the directions and have to work with this another pic: here I have to fill 1 1/2 inches of space for the arrows. Any ideas?

thats not a huge problem. just get ready to do a lot of wood cutting. you can make that into a riptide pad simply by taking more 2x4 (the same as what you used for the supports under the metal panels) and building square frames for each metal panel. Assuming your spaces are 11"x11", you will need to:
take about six feet of 2x4 and cut it in half LENGTHWISE (use a radial or table say) so you have very long pieces, twelve feet long total, about 1.5 to 2 inches wide (depending on your 2x4s...its not critical).

now you will construct each side of the square frames. to determine how long to cut each piece, subtract the width of your slim boards from 11. (for example, if you have a long piece that is six feet long and 1.75 inches wide, cut it into seven 9.25 inch pieces). if they turn out a little short, its okay, as long as they are the same.

now, make sure they fit well. they should lay so that one end of each piece is against another piece, and the other end is against the metal panel supports.

two screws into each piece through the bottom of the pad should be enough to secure them.
if you need more instructions from there, here is riptides link.
http://www.digitaltorque.com/mydancepad/
if you were intent on building another design, I cant help you.
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mtwieg
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2979. PostPosted: Sun Nov 28, 2004 7:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DarkDragon696 wrote:
I know there are a couple people that have the arrow graphics posted on this post but how do i go about getting them onto paper thats the right size???? thankx

1. print them out as they are in the pictures
2. cut out the graphics into a square, so that you just have the image you want (no border, white surroundings). use a ruler.
3. measure the width of the square.
4. assuming you want the graphics to be 11" square, divide 11 by the width (you should get something like 1.8, 1.3, anything in that range) multiply it by 100. this is an important number which has a name that i forget.
5. get your butt down to kinkos.
6. you will probably need an employee's help at this point. ask him/her to help you enlarge an image. make sure you tell them you need large paper and (probably) color. the employee will ask you what percent size increase you need. dazzle them by whipping out your calculated value and tell them "*insert value here* percent please. he or she, being shocked by your knowlege of image enlargement, will give you there phone number and/or print out your picture after entering the percent into the machine.
7. cut out the images. laminate them if you want.
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