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mtwieg
Trick Member
Joined: 06 Sep 2004
Location: Ù
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2880.  Posted: Fri Nov 05, 2004 1:13 pm Post subject: |
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| cartoonhero_604 wrote: | | you know, a playstation controller extension cord has stranded wires. and theyre only like 5 bucks. rip the wires out (theres nine) and there you go. |
exactly what i did. (i wasted about 4 controllers from static electricity so.... free wire!)
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HitokiriX
Trick Member
Joined: 27 Mar 2004
Location: Berwyn, PA |
| 2881. Posted: Fri Nov 05, 2004 8:10 pm Post subject: |
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i'm planning on building my new pad once my old CG metal pad breaks down on me. it's lasted me about 6 months by now but i'm thinking another 3 and it'll die out. it's already starting to have horrible sensitivity, although it wasn't so hot to begin with.  well anyway my question is before my CG metal pad breaks down can I open it up and take out the control board for it and use it in my new pad? can anyone tell me how good it would do? i mean it should be like taking the control board from a soft pad since they both use the same design, just different sensors. |
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Happyfeet
Basic Member
Joined: 13 Oct 2004
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| 2882. Posted: Fri Nov 05, 2004 8:48 pm Post subject: |
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Went throught the first 18 pages of the thread and saw that the sensitivity thing was a common issue for newly built pads! Probably should've read that before I posted a few days back....anyway....I read that for ddrhomepad's design, removing some weatherstripping might be a solution. I'm already a week into breaking it in and have seen a little difference, but not much. I can play on Light and get some good responses but as soon as I step it up to Standard (the level I'd rather play at), I have to be very exact where I step which is annoying and leads to me missing the beat!
So....to all of those who have removed weatherstripping and have seen a better response...how much of it did you remove and from which sides, or did you just cut larger gaps in it? (I currently have a little more than 1/2" gaps in it) Also, our Home Depot didn't have 1/2" wide weatherstripping, only 3/4". Would it be my advantage to trim it down? THANKS! |
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HitokiriX
Trick Member
Joined: 27 Mar 2004
Location: Berwyn, PA |
| 2883. Posted: Sat Nov 06, 2004 8:47 am Post subject: |
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| Happyfeet wrote: | Went throught the first 18 pages of the thread and saw that the sensitivity thing was a common issue for newly built pads! Probably should've read that before I posted a few days back....anyway....I read that for ddrhomepad's design, removing some weatherstripping might be a solution. I'm already a week into breaking it in and have seen a little difference, but not much. I can play on Light and get some good responses but as soon as I step it up to Standard (the level I'd rather play at), I have to be very exact where I step which is annoying and leads to me missing the beat!
So....to all of those who have removed weatherstripping and have seen a better response...how much of it did you remove and from which sides, or did you just cut larger gaps in it? (I currently have a little more than 1/2" gaps in it) Also, our Home Depot didn't have 1/2" wide weatherstripping, only 3/4". Would it be my advantage to trim it down? THANKS! |
if you'd like to try it you could use 1/4" thick silicon tubing instead of weatherstripping. it might help decrease the resistance. the other reason you might have for your sensitivity problem is that your contacts under the arrows aren't working properly. i'm not totally sure how the ddrhomepad pad works in terms of arrow contacts but for the riptide design there are contacts on each side of the arrow. you test by tapping the very edges of the arrow and see if the contacts touch and send a signal to the game. if one side doesn't work then you adjust the contacts so they work better. you could try that strategy for your homepad if it has a close design to that. |
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cb_epyon
Trick Member
Joined: 23 Sep 2004
Location: Florida |
| 2884. Posted: Sat Nov 06, 2004 11:06 am Post subject: |
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| hey, i was wondering if the pannels are lower then the rest of the pad, like the arcade? thats my main complaint about pads that u buy is that they dont feel like the arcade and i dont want to go through the trouble of building this only to realize that 1/2 way through its going to be flat. |
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ch
Trick Member
Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Location: IN UR FORUM POSTING ON UR THRED |
| 2885. Posted: Sat Nov 06, 2004 12:37 pm Post subject: |
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if you do it properly and put the corner braces flush with the metal panels, then the arrows will be sunk in about 1/16 of an inch, or whatever the thickness of the brace is. you'll be able to feel where the edge is.
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cb_epyon
Trick Member
Joined: 23 Sep 2004
Location: Florida |
| 2886. Posted: Sat Nov 06, 2004 1:19 pm Post subject: |
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| awesome. is that the measurements of the arcade or is it slightly less/more? |
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ch
Trick Member
Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Location: IN UR FORUM POSTING ON UR THRED |
| 2887. Posted: Sat Nov 06, 2004 1:28 pm Post subject: |
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thats how thick the sheet metal they use to make stanley corner braces. im pretty sure its the same as an arcade. it looks the same. i cant tell.
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somnambulist
Basic Member
Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Location: wasting time wondering how not to waste time |
| 2888. Posted: Sat Nov 06, 2004 6:32 pm Post subject: |
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I've done some reasearch.
If you can't find cheap corner braces, try channelbeat.
http://www.channelbeat.com/products/parts/dance_dance_revolution_parts/116.html
2x for $0.90, however I can't find a way to order or determine shipping.
As a question, can anybody who has made a pad tell me the KIND of sheet metal they used to cover the plywood? I've looked as some stainless steel and aluminium, and the cheapest I can find (.025", roughly 24 gauge) is 5052 H32 aluminium sheet.
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=7124&step=4&showunits=inches
I don't plan to buy from here, but I want to know what kind you used, or if that is an ok kind. It's about half the price of the equivlant in stainless steel. |
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Tomo_kun
Trick Member
Joined: 26 Oct 2003
Location: SE-WI. |
| 2889. Posted: Sat Nov 06, 2004 6:44 pm Post subject: |
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You need a minimum of a $250 order at Channel beat, and to order you email them.
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| Cutriss wrote: | | FLCL, God of Gods wrote: | | Uh... so when do we get the porn forum? |
If you can't find porn on the Internet, you're not trying. |
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mtwieg
Trick Member
Joined: 06 Sep 2004
Location: Ù
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| 2890. Posted: Sat Nov 06, 2004 9:07 pm Post subject: |
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| Tomo_kun wrote: | | You need a minimum of a $250 order at Channel beat, and to order you email them. |
are you serious?? i was just about to order some stuff from them...that's a burn  |
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HitokiriX
Trick Member
Joined: 27 Mar 2004
Location: Berwyn, PA |
| 2891. Posted: Sun Nov 07, 2004 7:37 am Post subject: |
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it doesn't really matter what kind of sheet metal you use cuz you won't be using them for any kind of hard bending or anything. you just place it over the plywood so it looks more like the arcade ones. for some designs you also use the sheet metal for contacts under the arrows as well but they don't bend at all either. the cheapest sheet metal possible would work for me but i'd try and make sure its not galvanized or anything cuz that gives the sheet metal a speckled look which i don't like. any sheet metal made of one kind of metal (copper, zinc, whatever) will give you a good solid color which you can use. |
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ch
Trick Member
Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Location: IN UR FORUM POSTING ON UR THRED |
| 2892. Posted: Sun Nov 07, 2004 10:13 am Post subject: |
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the panels at the arcade are made of stainless steel, so using stainless steel sheet would look asthetically pleasing, but it doesnt really matter what kind of sheet metal you use.
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moonmen0
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Joined: 08 Jul 2004
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| 2893. Posted: Sun Nov 07, 2004 4:09 pm Post subject: help on cutting flashing |
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i am about to cut the metal for the pad, i have wiss snips, does anyone have any tips for cutting it so it is straight and doesnt do the lightning effect?
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WHAT WAS I THINKING WHEN I READ 100+ PAGES OF POSTS? |
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5thDementian
Trick Member
Joined: 12 Oct 2004
Location: Kalamazoo, MI |
| 2894. Posted: Sun Nov 07, 2004 4:21 pm Post subject: Re: help on cutting flashing |
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| moonmen0 wrote: | | i am about to cut the metal for the pad, i have wiss snips, does anyone have any tips for cutting it so it is straight and doesnt do the lightning effect? |
Doesn't really matter... the metal wraps around the wood. If you are putting a border around your pad (which I recommend)... you'll never even see the edges.
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moonmen0
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Joined: 08 Jul 2004
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5thDementian
Trick Member
Joined: 12 Oct 2004
Location: Kalamazoo, MI |
| 2896. Posted: Sun Nov 07, 2004 5:44 pm Post subject: |
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ANswered via PM... but my answer (for the rest of the readers), is YES... they worked great, but they made my hands sore.
I just finished building a second pad for my gf... it's so much better. I'll explain better/more in a day or so, when I have time.
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Kue
Basic Member
Joined: 31 Oct 2004
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| 2897. Posted: Sun Nov 07, 2004 9:34 pm Post subject: I have skimmed the thread but..... |
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| I am curious, how come noone has plans for a six button pad. Is it really that far a cry from the 4 button one that already exists? can it even be done? |
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Ulala321
Trick Member
Joined: 28 Sep 2004
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| 2898. Posted: Sun Nov 07, 2004 10:41 pm Post subject: Re: help on cutting flashing |
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| 5thDementian wrote: | | moonmen0 wrote: | | i am about to cut the metal for the pad, i have wiss snips, does anyone have any tips for cutting it so it is straight and doesnt do the lightning effect? |
Doesn't really matter... the metal wraps around the wood. If you are putting a border around your pad (which I recommend)... you'll never even see the edges. |
Border?? Can you show a pic of what you mean? I'm curious what the border would be made out of as well.  |
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5thDementian
Trick Member
Joined: 12 Oct 2004
Location: Kalamazoo, MI |
| 2899. Posted: Mon Nov 08, 2004 2:44 am Post subject: Re: help on cutting flashing |
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| Ulala321 wrote: |
Border?? Can you show a pic of what you mean? I'm curious what the border would be made out of as well. |
Click the link in my sig and scroll all the way to the bottom for pics with the border. It's 1x2 pieces of wood, painted black with corner braces attached for better "holding power". I also added a handle, and wheels for better mobility of the pads. The one with the Purple & Green arrows is the new one. It's build a lot nicer. Did it in about a day and a half.
The biggest thing I did differently is put the border on right after building the 5 panels that don't have the arrows. I cut 2 pieces of wood 33" long (for the sides) and two pieces 35" long (for top and bottom). Putting the border on right away FORCES the arrow squares to all be the same size, and perfectly square. I'll try to get a couple "close-ups" after work. The lines are very straight and square on the new one as a result.
OH, and the corner braces that hold the arrow panels in... Those are also screwed into the border (from the inside of the pad) to make them stay flush.
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