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My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)
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DDRdre
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2800. PostPosted: Fri Oct 22, 2004 5:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hey since u have to wire ground a least four times do u make solder 4 wires on the ground ??
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5thDementian
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2801. PostPosted: Fri Oct 22, 2004 9:15 pm    Post subject: My Pad Reply with quote

Hey guys, this is my first post here. I've read EVERY SINGLE POST IN THIS THREAD before I started my DDR pad. I was hoping you guys would check it out.

http://www.secondattempt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57

It's my first attempt at something like this, and it's for the Xbox, but it works perfect. I am so happy.

Thanks for the idea/instructions. I modified some of the details. Instead of foam weather stripping, I bought rubber stripping. And, I bought aluminum sheet metal on accident, so soldering was out of the question, so I had to get creative on adding the wiring to the arrows.

Let me know what you think!!!
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dbdrummer
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2802. PostPosted: Fri Oct 22, 2004 10:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DDRdre wrote:
hey since u have to wire ground a least four times do u make solder 4 wires on the ground ??


if you do it right, and my mental calculations are correct, you only have to have one ground wire, as long as it runs to each trigger. my pad is using the border contacts (see patster's adding lights tutorial), so i have a clear arrow to put lights under (later on after i get the basic pad finished). using his concept, if you make the bottom contacts your ground and the contacts on the top your "specific" triggers, you can run one continuous wire through your pad for ground. if my directions are sketchy, just holla at me and ill get diagrams for ya, but to answer your question straight out, no, you just have to solder one ground wire if it is done correctly.

and by the way 5thDementian, nice work. its the first xbox home pad ive seen... quick question though... did ya have the idea to use the mad catz brain box on your own, or did ya see my post first? E13.gif
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tolookah
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2803. PostPosted: Fri Oct 22, 2004 11:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dbdrummer wrote:
... did ya have the idea to use the mad catz brain box on your own, or did ya see my post first? E13.gif


he could have seen my instructions and suggestions to use it E13.gif I've only been suggesting that to xbox people since at least mid summer (the beatpad pro connects to both the xbox AND the PS (not simul), shows up as a pad on live and to top it off, has handy instuctions with pictures on my site (see sig) )

E10.gif

edit: 5th, I'm very impressed you read the whole thread, It's nice to know there are people there that do that (instead of the few who ask questions answered on the page before) Nice pad ^^
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BretzelPretzel
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2804. PostPosted: Sat Oct 23, 2004 10:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anybody have any ideas about using that 80/20 industrial "erector" set type stuff? Cuz i think that would be a very easy way to get a simple frame set up.....

While considering this method, could anybody tell me how tall the weatherstripping + the lexan and contact are in terms of thickness?
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HitokiriX
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2805. PostPosted: Sat Oct 23, 2004 10:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

DDRdre wrote:
hey since u have to wire ground a least four times do u make solder 4 wires on the ground ??


if you build a pad with Riptide's design you should be making four separate ground wire systems. one from each arrow. then you should pull them all into the center panel or whichever panel is the housing of your control board. then what you can do is solder them all at one point and also solder a single spare cable to that point as well. that extra cable can be used as a main solder cable. so you just solder that one cable to the ground contact on the control board and it'll act the same as if you soldered the four actual ground systems from the arrows to the same ground contact. sorry if the description's a bit fuzzy. if you don't know what i mean just go to riptide's instructional for building his ddr pad and download the movies. he describes better it in there.

then again you could always drill holes through the each well in the pad and fish the ground wires through so each so that you have one long ground cable. i think it takes more work to do this though.
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ch
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2806. PostPosted: Sat Oct 23, 2004 7:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

lookin good 5thdementian! did you use ddrhomepad's directions?
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Ulala321
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2807. PostPosted: Sat Oct 23, 2004 11:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey guys, another question from yours truly. riiight.gif Does anyone know if I were to wire my pad using a PSX controller circuit board for plugging into a PSX/PS2, and I used a PS to X-Box adapter on the controller, would it give me any trouble? I'll probably be buying a universal pad and taking it's control box anyway, but I thought I'd at least check this out. Thanks guys.
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dbdrummer
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2808. PostPosted: Sun Oct 24, 2004 6:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ulala321 wrote:
Does anyone know if... I used a PS to X-Box adapter on the controller, would it give me any trouble?


I had the same idea, since my brother just got untramix and i own all domestic psx mixes... the only way that you wouldnt have any trouble is if your homepad is wired to trigger the actual up, down, left, and right buttons. if it is, then you should be ok. also, your choosers (start, select, triangle, square, X, O) must match correspondingly on xbox. as long as everythings wired right, youre set.

tolookah wrote:
he could have seen my instructions and suggestions to use it E13.gif


ill admit, i havent followed all 140+ pages of this very closely... im just wondering why it took "us" so long to figure this out... homepads have been being built for years now, and so have crap-pads... why hasnt somebody ripped the brains out before us... or have they and i just missed it?!?!
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Marvel627
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2809. PostPosted: Sun Oct 24, 2004 9:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey, can anyone please p.m. me the document that paster made on how to make the riptide pad have lights?Thanx
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§anityLapse
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2810. PostPosted: Sun Oct 24, 2004 10:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry if this has been asked but there are multiple topics and tons of posts to go through. But how much did it end up costing you to make the pad and how long did it take (excluding gather supplies). And if you have tried a Cobalt Flux out...how does it compare?
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ddrhomepad
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2811. PostPosted: Sun Oct 24, 2004 11:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

EvilNightmare wrote:
Sorry if this has been asked but there are multiple topics and tons of posts to go through. But how much did it end up costing you to make the pad and how long did it take (excluding gather supplies). And if you have tried a Cobalt Flux out...how does it compare?


The biggest differences between building your own pad and buying a CF are - Money, Repairs and Corner Braces.

Money - Building your own pad will cost you about $135. You could build two for the price of one CF and still have money left over.

Repairs - I've said this many times, the best thing about building a pad is that you will know how to fix it. If a CF breaks then you'll need help from their email support or their Problems and Solutions forum

Corner Braces - The home built pads use corner braces, just like the arcade. The CF is flat, some prefer it that way. With braces you can feel where the arrows are with your feet.

The CF has the same sensor design as the ddrhomepad, but they use velcro instead of weatherstripping. Apparently their sensors need to be cleaned and adjusted quite often. I don't know why, because I've never cleaned my sheet metal sensors and my pads are 3 years old. Also the weatherstripping has never been replaced either.

My suggestion to anyone that buys a CF, read the Problems and Solutions forum. If you buy one, consider getting extra control boxes. You can either buy them or get them free under warranty.

Another idea is to build a CF-style pad. Because you won't be using the corner braces a CF-style pad would only cost you about $110 to build.
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MVCX
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2812. PostPosted: Sun Oct 24, 2004 11:51 am    Post subject: sensor mods Reply with quote

All right this is my first post so bear with me and if it's not in the right place tell me where it should go.

I was thinking about the sensor mods you three proposed and came up with this idea, if you wanted to mod a manufactured pad, mine being a BNS metal one. You'll retain the sheet metal on metal contact system however what you might want to consider if you want to be economical and use only one piece of lucite or lexan is this: take a piece of sheet metal, puncture it at nine different points forming a square 7 7/8" by 7 7/8"now where the punctures are you use half inch screws, doesn't really matter with the threading, and screw the screws all the way in. thus holding metal in place. Now take another piece of sheet metal apprximately 1" longer, bend the metal at the edges so the top sits but the edges are flat along the sides and screw them down. The reason being for this is so there's more absorbtion from the impact you create with your feet. Solder the control wire (white wire and thick red one), and the ground wire to the sheet, and the current wire (thin red one) to the top metal panel you taped to the lucite.

Well I'd like your opinion on this, and whether or not I should keep it, or salvage what I can from the pad and build a new one.
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Ravenwing
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2813. PostPosted: Sun Oct 24, 2004 12:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a quick question for both DDRhomepad and Riptide:

How much would you estimate your pad designs weigh? Most storebought metalpads weigh about 40lbs...how do yours compare?
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ch
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2814. PostPosted: Sun Oct 24, 2004 12:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i dont know where the pic is, but heres a good one for lighting your pad:


s1 is your arrow sensor, d1 is your led. t1 is an "npn" transistor. go to radio shack and see if the guy there can help you figure out what stuff you need to get, but from my measly physics, i can tell you at least this:

~ v=ir voltage equals resistance times amperage. your led will have a maximum amperage it can handle before it burns up, so you need the resistor to keep the amperage low. to figure out what resistor you need, plug in the amperage of the led, say 200 milliamps, and the voltage youll be using, 9 volts. 9=i*.02 and solve for i (450). so in this case, you would need a 450 ohm resistor.

get an ultrabright white led for the best effect. if you dont know how to hook up your transistor or anything, pm me and ill help you out.
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Last edited by ch on Sun Oct 24, 2004 12:13 pm, edited 1 time in total
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ddrhomepad
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2815. PostPosted: Sun Oct 24, 2004 12:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ravenwing wrote:
I have a quick question for both DDRhomepad and Riptide:

How much would you estimate your pad designs weigh? Most storebought metalpads weigh about 40lbs...how do yours compare?


I would guess my pad weighs about 30-40 pounds. Riptide's is heavier because he uses 2x4's.
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tolookah
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2816. PostPosted: Sun Oct 24, 2004 12:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Knowing my electronics,I have a few problems with your circuit, the "-9V" should probably be labled as 0V or - lead to 9V battery, because someone will think there is 18 volts from point to point. What is S2 doing? just a power on switch I would guess?

also, there's a much more complicated analysis to your circuit...(you didnt look at the drops on the transistor...)
Assuming a standard BJT transistor with a beta of 120 and an official sony playstation controller there will be 2.4mA running through the resistor (I can post the math, but I'm sure noone wants it, if you do, either reply or PM me)


Edit: to be a little more helpful, http://www.lsdiodes.com is a GREAT place to get cheap but good LEDs
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ch
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2817. PostPosted: Sun Oct 24, 2004 12:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

...
yea, what he said.

s2 is a power switch, -9v should be 0v, and this is my first ever interaction with a transistor, so i have absolutely no idea what else you just said. note i said measly physics. but i will educate myself before attempting to make one
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HitokiriX
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2818. PostPosted: Sun Oct 24, 2004 3:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

AHH!!!! TOO MUCH ELECTRONIC TALK!!! BRAIN HURTS!!!! ACK!!!!

yeah....all this complicated talk about lighting is makin me not want lights anymore.

oh one question: since all of the designs suggest adding only two push buttons for start and select on the top right or top left panels of the pad I'm assuming that you guys don't really care about adding a cancel button (triangle)?
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rythmpolice07
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2819. PostPosted: Sun Oct 24, 2004 4:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

im building a ddrhomepad and i was wondering what the dimensions of the pad are when it is finished. also i was wondering if i could get instructions on how to add pushbuttons to the pad so i can add X and triangle. thanks.
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