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Phi Luvs Pie
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Joined: 03 Oct 2004
Location: Houston, Texas |
2640.  Posted: Tue Oct 05, 2004 4:02 pm Post subject: |
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So, do you think I would be able to build the metal/plexiglass frame and box and just use wiring out of a soft pad to put in it? I'm not very good with soldering but I guess I could if it came down to it..
-Josh
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Current Level: 1~8 footers Heavy
Current Struggles: A on Heavy (Going for full combo or an A) |
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moonmen0
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Joined: 08 Jul 2004
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| 2641. Posted: Tue Oct 05, 2004 5:12 pm Post subject: |
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i would recomend not to. youd be better off using new supplies, although you could use the controll box
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ch
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Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Location: IN UR FORUM POSTING ON UR THRED |
| 2642. Posted: Tue Oct 05, 2004 5:50 pm Post subject: |
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i was thinking of doing that for my controller, but i found sony controllers on amazon for 99 cents, so ill use them 
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ddrhomepad
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Joined: 24 Jan 2002
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| 2643. Posted: Wed Oct 06, 2004 7:18 am Post subject: |
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| beardie210 wrote: | I'm not very good with soldering but I guess I could if it came down to it..
-Josh |
Here's a site that shows how to hack a Sony Dual Shock A-Series controller without soldering.
http://home.comcast.net/~spiffyshoes/DualShockHack/
It looks like more work than soldering a controller, but it might help some people.
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Shadow_Dragonz
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Joined: 16 Mar 2003
Location: California |
| 2644. Posted: Wed Oct 06, 2004 8:02 am Post subject: |
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I've been looking for the Patster files and such and to my extent, no luck so far  . Through all my CDs of backups, it looks like all my ddr files are missing/lost. If they do appear, then I'll be sure to give out a holler. I do appologize for anyone that is/was looking for them from me.
Also, I will not have DSL until 1 week from today as I've had complications with SBC. So, if anyone would like to get ahold of me by AIM or such, then I will not be available until that time.
Shadow_Dragonz
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_ter
Trick Member
Joined: 10 Sep 2002
Location: Seattle, WA |
| 2645. Posted: Wed Oct 06, 2004 2:02 pm Post subject: |
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Which Patster files are you looking for Shadow?
Additionally, I had my pad over at a friend's house last night, and we played it for about 4 hours ... one individual was 295lb and the pad had no problems handling it ... I'll be building him a pad in the near future and documenting the progress. Excitement!
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HitokiriX
Trick Member
Joined: 27 Mar 2004
Location: Berwyn, PA |
| 2646. Posted: Wed Oct 06, 2004 6:01 pm Post subject: |
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hey everyone. i think i'm gonna try and build a hybrid pad with like parts of everyone's designs put in. riptide's base, ter's arrow internals, patster's lighting technique. that is...once i get the lighting document.  the main problem i have with this kind of design is the noise that it creates. i noticed that when riptide tests his pad out in the videos it's VERY loud. not just his feet but the metal on metal. i'm thinkin the extra space in his pad created from the 2 by 4's even increases that sound. which leads to my question
anyone know how to soften the noise created by the metal on metal contacts in the arrows? i'm not really sure what muffles the sound in regular pads but i think it's the soft black thin foam on the bottom of the arrow and also its thin size. since i can't really give thinness to a pad with riptide's base design, i'm thinkin add lots of foam to muffle it? |
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Ravenwing
Trick Member
Joined: 22 Jun 2003
Location: Leavenworth, KS |
| 2647. Posted: Wed Oct 06, 2004 8:28 pm Post subject: |
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Actually, you just answered your own question, and inspired a solution in my head!
Since the area underneath the arrows is hollow, it actually turns each arrow and indeed the entire pad into one giant soundboard. To solve this, simply fill up all that empty space with something, like rags or some soft foam...anything that takes up a lot of space.
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Ulala321
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Joined: 28 Sep 2004
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| 2648. Posted: Wed Oct 06, 2004 10:12 pm Post subject: |
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| Has this method been tested? I'd be concerned that the arrows might not respond as well. |
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Weston
Trick Member
Joined: 17 Feb 2003
Location: Minnesota |
| 2649. Posted: Thu Oct 07, 2004 8:35 am Post subject: |
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| If the foam isn't resisting the arrows from being pushed and it isn't blocking the switches in any way, then the arrows should respond just fine. |
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Heffenfeffer
Trick Member
Joined: 22 Apr 2002
Location: Las Cruces, NM |
| 2650. Posted: Thu Oct 07, 2004 10:48 am Post subject: Electrical Engineering makes me go 'EE'! |
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| tolookah wrote: | depending on the controller, a large resistor may help (i mean like 1meg ohm+) the official sony controller has a 220k resistor, other options are a resistor and a 5-6 volt Zener diode to pretty much discharge when it gets above 5-6 volts
I use the official sony one, and it works fine ^^ |
I'm kind of curious about using the resistor and diode approach - but I still have a couple of questions. Since I know little about EE, I thought I'd hand off to someone with a bit more experience...
1: Will a diode and resistor combination affect a normal signal going through the pad? When I tested resistance, the pad varied from about 30 ohm engaged to 8 Meg ohm closed - I believe that a 1 Meg ohm resistor would completely cut out all signals. This leads me to...
2: Where on the circuit board would a diode and resistor be connected? I have a feeling that if I needed one, it'd be just one somewhere on the circuit board (and not four - one for each panel)...but where do I need to put it?
Thanks!
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HitokiriX
Trick Member
Joined: 27 Mar 2004
Location: Berwyn, PA |
| 2651. Posted: Thu Oct 07, 2004 11:58 am Post subject: |
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| Ravenwing wrote: | Actually, you just answered your own question, and inspired a solution in my head!
Since the area underneath the arrows is hollow, it actually turns each arrow and indeed the entire pad into one giant soundboard. To solve this, simply fill up all that empty space with something, like rags or some soft foam...anything that takes up a lot of space. |
heh....i guess i did right there. i'm actually looking for another solution. the foam thing might work but i want a solution that someone can actually verify works. |
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_ter
Trick Member
Joined: 10 Sep 2002
Location: Seattle, WA |
| 2652. Posted: Thu Oct 07, 2004 12:35 pm Post subject: |
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| HitokiriX wrote: | | Ravenwing wrote: | Actually, you just answered your own question, and inspired a solution in my head!
Since the area underneath the arrows is hollow, it actually turns each arrow and indeed the entire pad into one giant soundboard. To solve this, simply fill up all that empty space with something, like rags or some soft foam...anything that takes up a lot of space. |
heh....i guess i did right there. i'm actually looking for another solution. the foam thing might work but i want a solution that someone can actually verify works. |
HitokiriX,
It seems you keep looking for definitive solutions from the Padmaking community, but sometimes you're going to find that you'll need to experiment to get the results you want. Whether it works as expected or not, trial and error is the only reason homebuilt pads exist in the first place. You're never going to know what works and what doesn't until you do it yourself.
To me, making a homepad is not an end-all solution, it's a work in progress, and will continue to be so probably indefinitely. 
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HitokiriX
Trick Member
Joined: 27 Mar 2004
Location: Berwyn, PA |
| 2653. Posted: Thu Oct 07, 2004 5:00 pm Post subject: |
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| _ter wrote: | | HitokiriX wrote: | | Ravenwing wrote: | Actually, you just answered your own question, and inspired a solution in my head!
Since the area underneath the arrows is hollow, it actually turns each arrow and indeed the entire pad into one giant soundboard. To solve this, simply fill up all that empty space with something, like rags or some soft foam...anything that takes up a lot of space. |
heh....i guess i did right there. i'm actually looking for another solution. the foam thing might work but i want a solution that someone can actually verify works. |
HitokiriX,
It seems you keep looking for definitive solutions from the Padmaking community, but sometimes you're going to find that you'll need to experiment to get the results you want. Whether it works as expected or not, trial and error is the only reason homebuilt pads exist in the first place. You're never going to know what works and what doesn't until you do it yourself.
To me, making a homepad is not an end-all solution, it's a work in progress, and will continue to be so probably indefinitely. |
yes...it seems the more i get into the whole "build your own ddr pad" idea the more directions there seem to be to choose from. and you're right. i should go an do a trial and error system to find my own personal preferences. unfortunately i am on a VERY tight budget as my parents are extremely strict on what i spend my cash on. that means like 120 bucks or less for supplies. such a bummer....anyway that's a reason why i'm trying to find fairly definite answers. once my pad is finished i will definetly be modifying it whenever i can to make it better. but for now i want to start with the best pad i can get my hands on....for 120 bucks or less. |
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riptide
Trick Member
Joined: 14 Aug 2002
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| 2654. Posted: Fri Oct 08, 2004 8:21 am Post subject: |
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| HitokiriX wrote: | | _ter wrote: | | HitokiriX wrote: | | Ravenwing wrote: | Actually, you just answered your own question, and inspired a solution in my head!
Since the area underneath the arrows is hollow, it actually turns each arrow and indeed the entire pad into one giant soundboard. To solve this, simply fill up all that empty space with something, like rags or some soft foam...anything that takes up a lot of space. |
heh....i guess i did right there. i'm actually looking for another solution. the foam thing might work but i want a solution that someone can actually verify works. |
HitokiriX,
It seems you keep looking for definitive solutions from the Padmaking community, but sometimes you're going to find that you'll need to experiment to get the results you want. Whether it works as expected or not, trial and error is the only reason homebuilt pads exist in the first place. You're never going to know what works and what doesn't until you do it yourself.
To me, making a homepad is not an end-all solution, it's a work in progress, and will continue to be so probably indefinitely. |
yes...it seems the more i get into the whole "build your own ddr pad" idea the more directions there seem to be to choose from. and you're right. i should go an do a trial and error system to find my own personal preferences. unfortunately i am on a VERY tight budget as my parents are extremely strict on what i spend my cash on. that means like 120 bucks or less for supplies. such a bummer....anyway that's a reason why i'm trying to find fairly definite answers. once my pad is finished i will definetly be modifying it whenever i can to make it better. but for now i want to start with the best pad i can get my hands on....for 120 bucks or less. |
My videos were recorded with an early design. Yes, they were loud, but part of that is because the mic on my camcorder picks up that frequency really well compared to the rest of the noise in the room. What I did to reduce the noise in my pads is to bind the sheetmetal to the pad by using mounting tape instead of spray adhesive(I ripped the sheetmetal off, cleaned, and straightened them as best as I could first... ripping them off bent them up a little bit, but it didn't matter once they were straightened).
With the mounting tape they do make less noise, but if you want even less, then I would suggest going with the idea of the rags(good idea, RavenWing).
I have an idea for a switch design that would make even less noise, but I need to work on how to build it inexpensively with easy to find parts...
Sigh... too many ideas and noplace to work...
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Paranoia Survivor
Trick Member
Joined: 22 Jan 2004
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| 2655. Posted: Fri Oct 08, 2004 12:01 pm Post subject: |
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i have an idea to reduce noise for riptides design. Wrap mounting tape with foil, then use another mounting tape to attach it to the supports. Then use mounting tape to keep the sheet metal contacts on the arrows. It's an idea and not sure if it would work...
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HitokiriX
Trick Member
Joined: 27 Mar 2004
Location: Berwyn, PA |
| 2656. Posted: Fri Oct 08, 2004 2:11 pm Post subject: |
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| Paranoia Survivor wrote: | | i have an idea to reduce noise for riptides design. Wrap mounting tape with foil, then use another mounting tape to attach it to the supports. Then use mounting tape to keep the sheet metal contacts on the arrows. It's an idea and not sure if it would work... |
maybe it's just my lack of experience or knowledge, but i think mounting tape is soft so how would you wrap anything around it? it would make the noise softer if it did work though. maybe like get some cardboard and wrap foil around it, then stick it to the arrow with mounting tape. then it conducts and has no metal on metal. however this idea only works with riptide's arrow design. ter's requires wire attachment to both contacts on the arrow and bottom so using foil or cardboard or anything except metal wouldn't keep the wires attached very well. |
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Paranoia Survivor
Trick Member
Joined: 22 Jan 2004
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| 2657. Posted: Fri Oct 08, 2004 2:56 pm Post subject: |
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| HitokiriX wrote: | | Paranoia Survivor wrote: | | i have an idea to reduce noise for riptides design. Wrap mounting tape with foil, then use another mounting tape to attach it to the supports. Then use mounting tape to keep the sheet metal contacts on the arrows. It's an idea and not sure if it would work... |
maybe it's just my lack of experience or knowledge, but i think mounting tape is soft so how would you wrap anything around it? it would make the noise softer if it did work though. maybe like get some cardboard and wrap foil around it, then stick it to the arrow with mounting tape. then it conducts and has no metal on metal. however this idea only works with riptide's arrow design. ter's requires wire attachment to both contacts on the arrow and bottom so using foil or cardboard or anything except metal wouldn't keep the wires attached very well. |
mouting tape = sticky. foil will stick to it and i did state that its for riptides
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Marvel627
Trick Member
Joined: 07 Jun 2003
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| 2658. Posted: Sat Oct 09, 2004 4:27 am Post subject: xgaming pcb? |
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| The guys over at xgaming.com have just announced that they will be selling the pcb that they use in their x-arcade joystick products individually. The kit includes the pcb and wires. Would it be possible to wire a homemade pad to that? The reson why I am asking is because it would be easier to wire to this, it has native support for the pc and all 3 next-gen systems, and you can just purchase a new adapter every time a new system comes out as opposed to soldering to a new controller or using an adaptor which may cause slight delay.Thanx! |
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Paranoia Survivor
Trick Member
Joined: 22 Jan 2004
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| 2659. Posted: Sat Oct 09, 2004 6:25 am Post subject: |
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what would happen if you put the weathering stripping on the inside of the arrows instead of the outside.
blue = weatherstripping
red = contacts area
Original design
My idea
I'm wondering if this will reduce the sound cause when you hit the two contacts together it echos throughout the hollow area, but if you cover it up with weatherstripping, it might reduce it. Otherwise, does this affect the way it goes up and down?
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