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My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)
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Recycled
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2620. PostPosted: Sun Oct 03, 2004 11:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think Ter's design looks like it is more solid. Because it does not have the rails, the panels are actually resting on a solid base, instead of being supported only at the sides and thereby allowing for warp when the center is stepped upon. This is why the cobalt flux feels more solid than the redoctane metal pad... It has a solid base underneath it, permitting practically zero distortion and a solid feel. I want to build this pad. :-)
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HitokiriX
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2621. PostPosted: Sun Oct 03, 2004 11:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Recycled wrote:
I think Ter's design looks like it is more solid. Because it does not have the rails, the panels are actually resting on a solid base, instead of being supported only at the sides and thereby allowing for warp when the center is stepped upon. This is why the cobalt flux feels more solid than the redoctane metal pad... It has a solid base underneath it, permitting practically zero distortion and a solid feel. I want to build this pad. :-)


the pad does seem like it would be very solid but i still think the 2 by 4's in riptide's pad helps with support. it would make the pad even more solid with its extra structure and since the 4 lengths of 2 by 4 are spread evenly along the pad horizontally instead of along the edges only, it will not warp either. i would just like to know how much more support the 2 by 4's give.
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_ter
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2622. PostPosted: Sun Oct 03, 2004 9:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

somnambulist wrote:
don't wait up on my FAQ, it could take me a while (i only have 2-3 hours a day maximum to spend making a pad)

as for the channels, what tool did you use? lathe? chisel? 1/4" drill bit and some luck?


Dremmel with an appropriate wood gouging bit.

Quote:
the pad does seem like it would be very solid but i still think the 2 by 4's in riptide's pad helps with support. it would make the pad even more solid with its extra structure and since the 4 lengths of 2 by 4 are spread evenly along the pad horizontally instead of along the edges only, it will not warp either. i would just like to know how much more support the 2 by 4's give.


The two by four design, mounted on a solid backboard, is just as sturdy, but much, much thicker in application.

Additionally the pad uses one large 33" x 36" backboard. This could be any thickness you'd like. Use 1" plywood and the chances of the pad having any give is virtually nill, if ultimate stability is your concern.
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Phi Luvs Pie
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2623. PostPosted: Mon Oct 04, 2004 7:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Roughly how much would it cost me to build one of these babies? And how hard would the wiring be to do on the XBOX controller? Thanks!

-Josh
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ledline
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2624. PostPosted: Mon Oct 04, 2004 11:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think around $135 (well that was just the estimate)
but somewhere around that area.
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HitokiriX
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2625. PostPosted: Mon Oct 04, 2004 11:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i think it costs about 100-110 for ter's cuz of the lack of 2 by 4's and other stuff that's not in his pad but i think mostly the 2 by 4's. then again someone might want to build start and select buttons...that would up your price like 30 bucks for plexiglass and all. happy.gif;;

oh can anyone tell me for sure if pressing and holding the start button cancels an action in ddr max, max2, and extreme? also any other select and start button options would be helpful for me to know. i don't have max, max2, or extreme cuz i didn't have enough cash for a ps2 after i bought my metal CG pad (crappy....sooooo crappy....) so i got a ps1 instead with konamix. not so bad...but i know they changed stuff in max, max2, and extreme compared to konamix so any help with start and select buttons would be extremely helpful. x, o, triangle, and square button features would be great help as well ^^
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Paranoia Survivor
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2626. PostPosted: Mon Oct 04, 2004 12:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

HitokiriX wrote:
i think it costs about 100-110 for ter's cuz of the lack of 2 by 4's and other stuff that's not in his pad but i think mostly the 2 by 4's. then again someone might want to build start and select buttons...that would up your price like 30 bucks for plexiglass and all. happy.gif;;

oh can anyone tell me for sure if pressing and holding the start button cancels an action in ddr max, max2, and extreme? also any other select and start button options would be helpful for me to know. i don't have max, max2, or extreme cuz i didn't have enough cash for a ps2 after i bought my metal CG pad (crappy....sooooo crappy....) so i got a ps1 instead with konamix. not so bad...but i know they changed stuff in max, max2, and extreme compared to konamix so any help with start and select buttons would be extremely helpful. x, o, triangle, and square button features would be great help as well ^^


In the US version X/O is to select and Triangle/Select is to cancel if you hold it. Select once allows you to go to the edit folder. Start just changes the sorting (ABC, BPM, PLayer's Best). In Jap version, O is to select, X holding down is to cancel, X once is to get the edit folder and start changes the storting.
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ledline
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2627. PostPosted: Mon Oct 04, 2004 3:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I cannot find the brackets anywhere.
can someone tell how to build it without the brackets

PM it to me
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HitokiriX
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2628. PostPosted: Mon Oct 04, 2004 4:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paranoia Survivor wrote:
HitokiriX wrote:
i think it costs about 100-110 for ter's cuz of the lack of 2 by 4's and other stuff that's not in his pad but i think mostly the 2 by 4's. then again someone might want to build start and select buttons...that would up your price like 30 bucks for plexiglass and all. happy.gif;;

oh can anyone tell me for sure if pressing and holding the start button cancels an action in ddr max, max2, and extreme? also any other select and start button options would be helpful for me to know. i don't have max, max2, or extreme cuz i didn't have enough cash for a ps2 after i bought my metal CG pad (crappy....sooooo crappy....) so i got a ps1 instead with konamix. not so bad...but i know they changed stuff in max, max2, and extreme compared to konamix so any help with start and select buttons would be extremely helpful. x, o, triangle, and square button features would be great help as well ^^


In the US version X/O is to select and Triangle/Select is to cancel if you hold it. Select once allows you to go to the edit folder. Start just changes the sorting (ABC, BPM, PLayer's Best). In Jap version, O is to select, X holding down is to cancel, X once is to get the edit folder and start changes the storting.


edit folder is just like editing arrows right? and so that would mean that to play without a control box or any buttons you would need to have three extra arrow buttons? one start, one select, and one x? damn thats bad...
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2629. PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2004 7:01 am    Post subject: Another one takes the bus Reply with quote

Aaak, last night I lost another controller to this stupid pad. This time, I decided to get a Dual Shock - I disconnected all the unnecessary stuff (like the vibrators, L&R buttons), soldered the wires to each point - but once again, it worked fine for a few minutes, then the buttons started behaving intermittently, and then I got nothing.

What do I need to do to solve this problem? It's getting quite frustrating! Is it because I play on carpet? Is there a controller that can take this much static?

Thanks,
Heffenfeffer
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Weston
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2630. PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2004 8:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Static buildup causes a powerful charage to be sent to the controller, so I wonder if using resistors would work? I remember someone suggesting that at one time. You'd only need 4 if you have 8 wires going to the controller in your design. You'd have to figure out the electric current in the controller, and find an appropriate resistor.
Is there anyone that knows a lot about electronics that could say if this is a good or bad idea?

EDIT: Err... maybe more than 4. I forgot that the shock can travel through any of the wires.


Last edited by Weston on Tue Oct 05, 2004 7:34 pm, edited 1 time in total
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Ulala321
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2631. PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2004 10:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmm, I'm going to make my first attempt at the wiring this weekend, and I may give your idea a try. I'll consult with an electrician friend of mine and let you guys know.
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2632. PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2004 11:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i think the best solution to a static problem would be to ground all the wired to an electrical wall socket. Add one wire to each return wire from your arrows(or one on the ground of the controller) and wire it into the ground of an old extendion cord. Put wire nuts on the ends of the other two wire so you dont get a short! E4.gif plug this into a grounded electrical socket in your house and that should be it. as long as the socket is actually grounded and not just a front for an old two-wire house wiring. Get a tester or an electrician to tell you if the socket is grounded or not, but they should be on most newer houses.

btw, noone got back to me about my back bar yet! any hints?

EDIT: sorry to rip on you weston, but i dont think resistors would help. then again, idk riiight.gif
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tolookah
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2633. PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2004 11:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

depending on the controller, a large resistor may help (i mean like 1meg ohm+) the official sony controller has a 220k resistor, other options are a resistor and a 5-6 volt Zener diode to pretty much discharge when it gets above 5-6 volts

I use the official sony one, and it works fine ^^
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Heffenfeffer
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2634. PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2004 1:07 pm    Post subject: Shocking! Reply with quote

tolookah wrote:
depending on the controller, a large resistor may help (i mean like 1meg ohm+) the official sony controller has a 220k resistor, other options are a resistor and a 5-6 volt Zener diode to pretty much discharge when it gets above 5-6 volts

I use the official sony one, and it works fine ^^


The discharge method sounds like a good idea, especially since I was chatting with one of my engineer friends today about this project and he reminded me that two metal pieces with a gap between them is a form of capacitor. I have an eerie feeling that I now know why the controllers short out after a short period of time...

What would the circuit diagram be if I decide to add a diode? Do I need a diode and resistor in serial with all four signal wires and ground? Or just one diode and resistor somehow in parallel with all of them? It's been years since I dropped out of EE to become a computer scientist. riiight.gif

I'm rather curious, though - an official Sony controller works fine for you, and other folks (like the epymonous ddrhomepad) have had work with generic and presumably lower-quality controllers. I, on the other hand, have torn through two generic controllers, two pre-Dual Shock Sonys, and one Dual Shock. Is there something in general I'm missing? I play on carpet, and I still have the little cellophane covers on each piece of lucite, but that's about all I can think of...

(Edit) Oh yeah, the design! I'm using a Riptide design (the later one with the mending brackets and the cut-corners. The circuit board is still in the controller - since I don't have any pushbuttons, I'm doing the whole "confirm selecting a song with the controller" thing that ddrhomepad did.
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Last edited by Heffenfeffer on Tue Oct 05, 2004 1:28 pm, edited 2 times in total
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2635. PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2004 1:19 pm    Post subject: Re: Shocking! Reply with quote

Heffenfeffer wrote:
tolookah wrote:
depending on the controller, a large resistor may help (i mean like 1meg ohm+) the official sony controller has a 220k resistor, other options are a resistor and a 5-6 volt Zener diode to pretty much discharge when it gets above 5-6 volts

I use the official sony one, and it works fine ^^


The discharge method sounds like a good idea, especially since I was chatting with one of my engineer friends today about this project and he reminded me that two metal pieces with a gap between them is a form of capacitor. I have an eerie feeling that I now know why the controllers short out after a short period of time...

What would the circuit diagram be if I decide to add a diode? Do I need a diode and resistor in serial with all four signal wires and ground? Or just one diode and resistor somehow in parallel with all of them? It's been years since I dropped out of EE to become a computer scientist. riiight.gif

I'm rather curious, though - an official Sony controller works fine for you, and other folks (like the epymonous ddrhomepad) have had work with generic and presumably lower-quality controllers. I, on the other hand, have torn through two generic controllers, two pre-Dual Shock Sonys, and one Dual Shock. Is there something in general I'm missing? I play on carpet, and I still have the little cellophane covers on each piece of lucite, but that's about all I can think of...


you do have grounds right? i'm an idiot when it comes to electronics but it's all the help I can give you...maybe if you gave us a little bit more information about your pad like where the control board is on your pad, which pad design you used, anything you can tell us about it then it might be easier to define your problem.
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Heffenfeffer
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2636. PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2004 1:49 pm    Post subject: Re: Shocking! Reply with quote

HitokiriX wrote:
you do have grounds right? i'm an idiot when it comes to electronics but it's all the help I can give you...maybe if you gave us a little bit more information about your pad like where the control board is on your pad, which pad design you used, anything you can tell us about it then it might be easier to define your problem.


Yeah, I amended my original post slightly. I've got a Riptide design (the one with the mending brackets and the cut-corners), and the circuit board is in the controller - I play with the pad and then pick up the controller to select/confirm a song. It's not grounded, but that's mainly due to none of the designs I've seen plans for on the web incorporating a ground. Perhaps I'm a bit naive, but I think that if the design doesn't make mention of grounding it (at least as far as I've seen - I could be extremely dense and have missed the mention), then it's not really necessary. After all, Cobalt Fluxes (or is it Cobalt Fluxi?) aren't grounded, and they seem to hold up OK.

Of course, yeah, I'm not exactly working with CF-caliber material here...
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2637. PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2004 2:07 pm    Post subject: Re: Shocking! Reply with quote

Heffenfeffer wrote:
HitokiriX wrote:
you do have grounds right? i'm an idiot when it comes to electronics but it's all the help I can give you...maybe if you gave us a little bit more information about your pad like where the control board is on your pad, which pad design you used, anything you can tell us about it then it might be easier to define your problem.


Yeah, I amended my original post slightly. I've got a Riptide design (the one with the mending brackets and the cut-corners), and the circuit board is in the controller - I play with the pad and then pick up the controller to select/confirm a song. It's not grounded, but that's mainly due to none of the designs I've seen plans for on the web incorporating a ground. Perhaps I'm a bit naive, but I think that if the design doesn't make mention of grounding it (at least as far as I've seen - I could be extremely dense and have missed the mention), then it's not really necessary. After all, Cobalt Fluxes (or is it Cobalt Fluxi?) aren't grounded, and they seem to hold up OK.

Of course, yeah, I'm not exactly working with CF-caliber material here...


yeah i think it can do that cuz of it's circuit board layout. don't know exactly what allows it to do that...but you could ask them about it. might help you with your problem. other than that all i can say is add grounds to the pad and hope for the best
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2638. PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2004 3:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

there is a ground wire that goes through the controller cabe to the playstation, but of course, the playstation has no ground either E15.gif

if you're curious, looking into the end of the controller cable,
..._
./o | data
| o | command
| o | +7.5v
|---|
| o | ground
| o | VCC
| o | ATT
|---|
| o | CLK
| o | (not used)
.\o | ACK
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2639. PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2004 3:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

as for the static buildup....i havent yet built my pad, but i have asked my dad who is an electrician and he said that it sounded like a good idea. I plan to add a wire somewhere around where the arrows contact on all four, and have that wire connect to the case for my computer, the case is metal and i grounded, that shoudl eliminate the problem if it is charge buildup from the arrows.
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