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riptide
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Joined: 14 Aug 2002
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2480.  Posted: Thu Sep 16, 2004 4:10 am Post subject: |
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| Sane wrote: | The one's you use around the perimeter on the NSEW sides of the pad.
Edit: This sucks...I have better things to do then wait. Bye....  |
Ok, sorry... took me a moment to find what you were talking about... that isn't my design, so I have to look at the pages from time to time if someone points out something specific.
Those rails he mentioned were temporary, but he didn't say why... the reason they were temporary in that picture was just to lift the pad off the floor to take a better picture. There's no reason to need them at all as far as I know. When the pad is done, the arrow panels will be there. I believe he has them on their edges in that picture because without the extra layers of material that go into the arrow panels, lying them flat wouldn't actually support the pad. It's all a temporary thing he did to take the picture... for aesthetics.
By the way, these are forums and not chat rooms. You can't always expect there to be an immediate response. We all have other things to do than sit here and post answers.
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riptide
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Joined: 14 Aug 2002
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| 2481. Posted: Thu Sep 16, 2004 4:36 am Post subject: |
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| amatsu wrote: | | if i didnt want to use the corner brackets, what would i use to hold the nonbutton pieces together? |
for the ddrhomepad design, you really have to use the corner brackets... actually, with pretty much any design on these forums you're going to have to use them. I don't know of a design that doesn't use/need them. You might be able to use corner braces instead of corner brackets... same thing without the triangular side on it. However, you would probably have a problem with the sandwich of materials not holding together for your arrows...
| XzDestinzX wrote: | | If i use 3/8" normal glass (I can get it for free) for the arrows, do you think it will break? |
Yes, I'm sure normal glass will break. Not only that, but you could incurr some serious injury doing that. Acrylic isn't nearly the same thing as glass. The forms of it we use on these pads are much stronger against impact than glass is. Every time I think about what would happen if someone plunged their foot onto a glass panel on a DDR pad, it makes me cringe. I could see a sliced achilles tendon happening easily... among other nasties.
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DDRdre
Trick Member
Joined: 08 Feb 2004
Location: Fl |
| 2482. Posted: Thu Sep 16, 2004 5:13 am Post subject: |
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| Amatsu wrote: | | if i didnt want to use the corner brackets, what would i use to hold the nonbutton pieces together? |
My friend's design is like that but he only gave the tutorial for some people and i dont no if he is gonna release it to other people. I will ask him later.
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HitokiriX
Trick Member
Joined: 27 Mar 2004
Location: Berwyn, PA |
| 2483. Posted: Thu Sep 16, 2004 5:22 am Post subject: |
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| Amatsu wrote: | | if i didnt want to use the corner brackets, what would i use to hold the nonbutton pieces together? |
um.......i don't think the non arrow panels are held together with brackets. they're bolted into the wood below it. but that's just riptide's ddr pad. i don't know about the other one.... |
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HitokiriX
Trick Member
Joined: 27 Mar 2004
Location: Berwyn, PA |
| 2484. Posted: Thu Sep 16, 2004 5:36 am Post subject: |
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| I've already asked riptide about this question but he doesn't have an answer either so can anyone tell me how to get lights into a pad with riptide's design (has a well below each arrow panel so easy to fit some sort of LED or other kind of light in there) that are BRIGHTER than the average LED lights you find in like the BNS and CG pads wihtout using an external battery? if you look in riptide's instructions he was planning to add the kind of lights i'm talking about onto his pad but couldn't find a way to power them without an external battery power. anyone with suggestions? |
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DDRdre
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Joined: 08 Feb 2004
Location: Fl |
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HitokiriX
Trick Member
Joined: 27 Mar 2004
Location: Berwyn, PA |
| 2486. Posted: Thu Sep 16, 2004 7:40 am Post subject: |
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| hey ddrdre how did you make ur pad screwless? did you screw from the bottom or sumthin? it looks really cool that way. |
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tolookah
Trick Member
Joined: 21 Sep 2003
Location: The People's Republic of Wesdives. |
| 2487. Posted: Thu Sep 16, 2004 7:51 am Post subject: |
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im not sure its really screwless, i think its just not screwed down yet (i think)...
but as another question to add to your questions DDRdre, what are your corner pieces made of? are the corners light? and were they expencive?
(I am currently using 'free' 1/4 inch plates of steel, and well, they are about 10 lbs a piece, and if i had to pay for em, something like $10 a piece, looking for ideas for more pads that are cheaper but still heavy duty)
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DDRPad Soldering and electrical Help: http://www.tolookah.net/DDR/ As hooded_paladin put it: "Currently, help for Beatpad Pro, official Sony Playstation Controller and ANY controller unless you are extremely stupid or lazy." |
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DDRdre
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Joined: 08 Feb 2004
Location: Fl |
| 2488. Posted: Thu Sep 16, 2004 11:01 am Post subject: |
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| HitokiriX wrote: | | hey ddrdre how did you make ur pad screwless? did you screw from the bottom or sumthin? it looks really cool that way. |
No i didnt srcew it yet.
| tolookah wrote: | im not sure its really screwless, i think its just not screwed down yet (i think)...
but as another question to add to your questions DDRdre, what are your corner pieces made of? are the corners light? and were they expencive?
(I am currently using 'free' 1/4 inch plates of steel, and well, they are about 10 lbs a piece, and if i had to pay for em, something like $10 a piece, looking for ideas for more pads that are cheaper but still heavy duty) |
My pad is very light and cheap. The plywood base is what makes it stable. I cant really tell what it is made of with out my freinds permisson cuz he didnt post the tuturial out But it the coners and center panels cost about 10 bucks for the wood and i covered it with sheet metal.
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Paranoia Survivor
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Joined: 22 Jan 2004
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| 2489. Posted: Thu Sep 16, 2004 3:22 pm Post subject: |
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Hey. On Riptide's pad, how do you get rid of extra glue adhesive that's sticking out?
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HitokiriX
Trick Member
Joined: 27 Mar 2004
Location: Berwyn, PA |
| 2490. Posted: Thu Sep 16, 2004 4:52 pm Post subject: |
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| Paranoia Survivor wrote: | | Hey. On Riptide's pad, how do you get rid of extra glue adhesive that's sticking out? |
do you mean by using the perfect metal panel mod? i don't know any other part of the design involving glue but use a chisel. that's what it said for glue in the perfect metal panel mod...... |
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D r S a n e
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Joined: 07 Jul 2004
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| 2491. Posted: Thu Sep 16, 2004 7:16 pm Post subject: |
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How come so many people are doing Riptides design? Is it that much better?
Because when I asked, you guys said DDR Homepad was good (I forget what was exactly said), so I'm damn confused now. |
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Heffenfeffer
Trick Member
Joined: 22 Apr 2002
Location: Las Cruces, NM |
| 2492. Posted: Fri Sep 17, 2004 5:54 am Post subject: But...why? |
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Well, I personally am using Riptide's design because I want as little sautering as possible in the pad design. I have a friend whose homepad worked very well except when wires would come loose from the top (metal) panels, or from the bottom, forcing him to re-sauter. Sadly, the last time he decided to do this in the middle of a game, without unplugging the pad - taking out all the electrics in his controller as well as his import PS2.
Yeah, I know the lesson here is to unplug your pad before you work on it, but I still prefer to have as little sauter in this thing as possible, if only because sautered wires are a fragile piece of equipment in something designed to by stomped on by 200+ lb. people. With Riptide's design, I can just touch wire to conductive screws and brackets without having to sauter - the twist of the screw tends to keep the wire secure well enough.
Ach, I'm almost done, though I've ruined a couple of controllers with my shoddy sautering technique (as well as the fact that all the drill bits I had were too big - they all took out the *entire* sauter point, leaving nothing to connect to.) However, this time I got a tiny hand drill (with tiny bits) from Radio Shack, and advice that I should drop some sauter onto the points before drilling, then tin each wire I need to connect - thus, when I take each wire through the hole, just touching it with the sautering iron should give a good connection.
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Shadow_Dragonz
Trick Member
Joined: 16 Mar 2003
Location: California |
| 2493. Posted: Fri Sep 17, 2004 9:17 am Post subject: |
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| Sane wrote: | How come so many people are doing Riptides design? Is it that much better?
Because when I asked, you guys said DDR Homepad was good (I forget what was exactly said), so I'm damn confused now. |
I actually don't know the answer, but probably because it is more like the arcade than ddrhomepads. His sensors are more centered, while Riptides are on the outter edges (so when depressed, you can do a corner, rather than hit dead center). That's just my observation.
Personally, I'd go w/Blue Beefman's (if I can figure out how to build it & how he did his light contacts), then Patster's, then Riptides, and finally ddrhomepads. Maybe Riptide's @ #1 if I knew how to add the lights  . Ah well, they're all great pads  . The plastic pads don't really have anything on them  ...not that's there's anything wrong using those.
It's just a personal choice when you get down to it. Oh, I do have a question: How do you guys get the metal to bend around the wood @ an almost 90 degree angle? I've never been able to figure that out. Maybe I"m not meant to be a carpender , but I can design one at least  .
Oh, if I get some time, I'll try to modify the FAQ again. Um, if someone could post a link where I can get information on/for the X-Box. I've seen numerous question on it, but more people seem to use the PS2 for ddr. Well, that's all that I can think of for updating @ the moment  . Great job to everyones' dance pad  .
Shadow_Dragonz
P.S. Very true about what Riptide said about getting a reply back. I'm currently doing college and 2 jobs, so I don't have the lesure of posting here every day as I did a year ago  . So, try not to get frustrated if we can't help you out as fast as you would like.
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dejaydreams
Basic Member
Joined: 17 Sep 2004
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| 2494. Posted: Fri Sep 17, 2004 11:24 am Post subject: |
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I just finished making a riptide design pad with some modifications. I need to get my graphics done yet and also add the lighting.
seen as i play on xbox live with friends i figured i would add the xbox mem card/headset slot on my pad.
What are people doing for lighting? I was thinking of some small 4" cold cathode tubes and then using some relays to trigger the lights to go on when the pulse is set from the pad to the controller. |
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HitokiriX
Trick Member
Joined: 27 Mar 2004
Location: Berwyn, PA |
| 2495. Posted: Fri Sep 17, 2004 11:38 am Post subject: |
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| dejaydreams wrote: | I just finished making a riptide design pad with some modifications. I need to get my graphics done yet and also add the lighting.
seen as i play on xbox live with friends i figured i would add the xbox mem card/headset slot on my pad.
What are people doing for lighting? I was thinking of some small 4" cold cathode tubes and then using some relays to trigger the lights to go on when the pulse is set from the pad to the controller. |
hey if you figure out how to add lighting to riptide's pad design could you please tell me? because i'm trying to build riptide's pad too but i don't want to start until i find a good way to add blue very bright lights so that when you press the arrows the chinese character lights up blue. that would be awesome.......oh and i also don't want to have to use an external battery power.
sorry if i'm kinda relying on you too much but i've been trying to find a way to add lighting for a while now and i'm getting desperate. |
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dejaydreams
Basic Member
Joined: 17 Sep 2004
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| 2496. Posted: Fri Sep 17, 2004 12:34 pm Post subject: |
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I planned on having an external hookup for the lights.
With an xbox system you CAN pull 5v off of the controller line but that won't be enough for the cold cathode tubes. What I'll do is add another "jack" on the side of my pad to plug in a 12v DC adapter.
There is no really easy way of doing it without an adapter. I mean you could stuff batteries under the pads but then you are adding quite a bit of weight to the pad. |
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D r S a n e
Trick Member
Joined: 07 Jul 2004
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| 2497. Posted: Fri Sep 17, 2004 2:10 pm Post subject: |
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Damn, that thing about the sensors makes me want to have maked riptides now...
Is there anyway I can mod the sensors to be like riptides (I'm almost completed the frame now).
And on DDR Homepad design, does anything go below the metal outside panels besides the MDF rails, because it seems a little thin...
EDIT: To wrap the sheet metal around the wood, you use a rubber mallet moving back and forth along the top edge of the wood and it'll be wrapped at a 90 degree angle in no time.
POST EDIT: Back to my third paragraphing, it's only a third inch thin. It doesn't look like an arrow could fit in there...
- And do I make two layers of peg board, one for the arrows and one on the bottom of the pad?
- How are the sensors not in the middle of the pad, it looks lik the whole sheet metal piece in the sensor?
Sorry for the overload of questions...  |
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HitokiriX
Trick Member
Joined: 27 Mar 2004
Location: Berwyn, PA |
| 2498. Posted: Fri Sep 17, 2004 6:15 pm Post subject: |
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| dejaydreams wrote: | I planned on having an external hookup for the lights.
With an xbox system you CAN pull 5v off of the controller line but that won't be enough for the cold cathode tubes. What I'll do is add another "jack" on the side of my pad to plug in a 12v DC adapter.
There is no really easy way of doing it without an adapter. I mean you could stuff batteries under the pads but then you are adding quite a bit of weight to the pad. |
that sucks. i guess i'll wait for someone to figure out how to add lights, but i'll probably just add lights using an extra plug. |
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HitokiriX
Trick Member
Joined: 27 Mar 2004
Location: Berwyn, PA |
| 2499. Posted: Fri Sep 17, 2004 6:29 pm Post subject: |
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| Dejaydreams, what's that little knobby thing next to your xbox wire? is it a wireless control or sumthing? |
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