My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)

jbean3535 · Trick Member Joined: 08 May 2004 Location: KC Kansas

WOOT WOOT! GREAT WOLF LODGE! They fixed the pads themselves..cant remember what they used though..i was check and tell everyone
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Tomo_kun · Trick Member Joined: 26 Oct 2003 Location: SE-WI.

jbean3535 · Trick Member Joined: 08 May 2004 Location: KC Kansas

It is in KC and they replaced the arrow with some home depot stuff and it is working...
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HitokiriX · Trick Member Joined: 27 Mar 2004 Location: Berwyn, PA

Hey everyone....I'm new to this whole building pads thing. Used to think it was gonna take me a whole lotta time that i didn't have....and i'm right!! WOOT for me!!!!

anyway......I'd like to build me an arcade style pad with one exception: I want to have the select buttons on. u know....the top left and top right buttons....usually green.....

so how would i wire that in? if this is a retarded question flame me plz. I learn from my mistakes. screaming helps too

;

Syk3 · Basic Member Joined: 23 Jun 2004 Location: Maryland

I haven't started to make my own pad yet, but I'm deffinitely considering it. Before I do that, though, I need to make sure that I know how to do it completely so that I don't get stuck in the middle, and to do that I'm hoping to get a few questions answered.

1. Looking at the pictures for the final pad, it looks as if you put screws into the top of the corner braces and into the arrow. The only effect that I can think of to doing this is that the arrow must bend in the middle when you hit it, and from what I remember, I believe that the arrows in the arcades just go down and come back up. Is there a way to do this, like by just not putting the screws in the top, in which case I can see the unfastened arrows coming out the side of the pad if not covered by a metal (or at least, metal looking) bar around the pad, or am I thinking too much about this? o_o;

2. I was looking through the directions for the homepad and I noticed that it called for MDF fiberboard or some kind of wood material, but it wasn't really clear on how long the rails under the pad should be or how many screws we should put in (or whether this was up to us, or.. wait, should we just screw the corner screws through into the rails? that might answer my next question..). Should the rails extend from one side to the other, leave a couple inches from the edges, or what? I can see that extended ones to both sides give more support, but smaller ones leave room to weave wiring, which also wasn't fully explained in the sense that it doesn't say where the wires go between the soldered pad and the controller. Maybe I need to be working on the pad to figure out some of these questions, lol.

3. This is probably my stupidest question, but when screwing in the corner braces, the screws look like they might come dangerously close to hitting the screws placed in the corners of the 5 neutral squares. Should I just factor this in when screwing them in? :o

4. Bare with me now. I'm an idiot.. but what do you mean when you say to make a 1/2" gap in the weatherstripping? In the middle of the strip so that it looks someting like this?: | [] | ..the lines on the outside being the strip, and the brakets being the gap? Please explain.

I really appreciate answering any question you can, and if I remember anything else, I'll say so.
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discobiscuits · Trick Member Joined: 07 Sep 2003 Location: phoenix

HitokiriX · Trick Member Joined: 27 Mar 2004 Location: Berwyn, PA

discobiscuits · Trick Member Joined: 07 Sep 2003 Location: phoenix

just step on them. put them like 5 inches away from eachother, and you can just lightly step on them. Don't worry that's the lazy alternative too having to crouch and press it with a finger ^^
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just passing by

HitokiriX · Trick Member Joined: 27 Mar 2004 Location: Berwyn, PA

one question here: what does allow the arrow panels of the arcade pad to only go up and down instead of bending?

Paranoia Survivor · Trick Member Joined: 22 Jan 2004

here's a suggestion. Follow Riptide's design. It goes up and down and doesn't bend. I don't think the arcade really goes up and down. It's more of a pressure sensor.
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riptide · Trick Member Joined: 14 Aug 2002

D r S a n e · Trick Member Joined: 07 Jul 2004

Urgent Question: Below each of the 5 panels (not arrows) was I supposed to lay to MDF rails flat against the bottom or on the narrow edge? The instructions never explain, and on the arrows it shows flat. But then I looked closely at the picture and the temporary rails at all four directions of the pad are shown on the narrow edge...

Fast reply please...

riptide · Trick Member Joined: 14 Aug 2002

D r S a n e · Trick Member Joined: 07 Jul 2004

You positive, because the arrows show them flat, but the panels don't. So it seems as though the panels have to compensate for all the shiznit inbetween the arrow...

riptide · Trick Member Joined: 14 Aug 2002

D r S a n e · Trick Member Joined: 07 Jul 2004

Okay, I'll hope you're right. But this better not screw me over in the end...

But what did you to for the temporary rails on the NSWE sides of the pad...if you lay them flat they intrude a bit on the arrows...wouldn't they?

riptide · Trick Member Joined: 14 Aug 2002

D r S a n e · Trick Member Joined: 07 Jul 2004

The one's you use around the perimeter on the NSEW sides of the pad.

Edit: This sucks...I have better things to do then wait. Bye....

Amatsu · Basic Member Joined: 12 Sep 2004

if i didnt want to use the corner brackets, what would i use to hold the nonbutton pieces together?
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XzDestinzX · Trick Member Joined: 19 Aug 2004

If i use 3/8" normal glass (I can get it for free) for the arrows, do you think it will break?