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My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)
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DDRdre
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2200. PostPosted: Fri Jul 16, 2004 8:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oryan wrote:
http://www.freehomepages.com/oryan/MetalPadFinished.zip

Right Click + Save Target As

Thats my Video i made, its alright i didnt go to much trouble doing the video editing becuase im one lazy mofo. Well anyways, the good and boo were caused by the pad, only becuase i didnt re-align the screws right.


That's a nice pad did you get a bettergrade after you fixed the thing
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ddrhomepad
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2201. PostPosted: Sat Jul 17, 2004 6:51 am    Post subject: Re: Review my pad blueprint? Reply with quote

MaXxX wrote:
As this is the first time I'm taking on building a metal/wood pad, I'd be terribly grateful for any comments. Note that the pad itself is in no way built yet, hell, I haven't bought even a single part for it yet. I'd just like someone to look at the "blueprints" I made, and comment on the workability of it all...

Here goes:



This is the plan for the step panel. From the top: a plexi/lucite panel, a wooden or pressed panel with the arrow image on a piece of paper put on it


It looks like you are replacing the lower 3/32 lucite panel with a piece of wood. If the wood is too thick it won't be able to flex and the sheet metal contacts won't touch. I don't even know if you can get wood as thin as the 3/32 lucite.
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ddrhomepad
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2202. PostPosted: Sat Jul 17, 2004 6:51 am    Post subject: Re: Review my pad blueprint? Reply with quote

Preview now submits?
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ddrhomepad
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2203. PostPosted: Sat Jul 17, 2004 6:55 am    Post subject: Re: Review my pad blueprint? Reply with quote

I guess it does.
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morgan_rhys
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2204. PostPosted: Sat Jul 17, 2004 9:01 am    Post subject: Re: Review my pad blueprint? Reply with quote

**Snip pretty picture**

ddrhomepad wrote:


It looks like you are replacing the lower 3/32 lucite panel with a piece of wood. If the wood is too thick it won't be able to flex and the sheet metal contacts won't touch. I don't even know if you can get wood as thin as the 3/32 lucite.


If you used hardboard instead of wood it will work fine though. I built my panels like so from top down:

1/8" lucite
graphic
1/8" hardboard
metal sheet

it works just fine.
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LordPyrex
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2205. PostPosted: Sat Jul 17, 2004 4:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nephus wrote:
what do the arcade pads use?


Arcade pads use a system that cannot be completely recreated at home. In each arrow you will find 4 pressure connectors.

These are located in the up, down, left. and right sides of the frame. When you step down on the arrow, these are pressed which complete a circuit just like in a homepad creation, however if I'm not mistaken at least 2 of these switches have to make a signal in order to register a step.

The closest that you can come to recreating this would be to wire a connections in a parrallel loop circuit with some form of contacts on each side. Many people use a technique similar to this when they are creating a lighted stage.

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Cheshire Cat
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2206. PostPosted: Sat Jul 17, 2004 5:23 pm    Post subject: Finished! Reply with quote

My wireless metal pad has actually been done for a month or so, now. Thanks to ddrhomepad, riptide, and my father (whose workspace and tools I used). Some of the arrows like to stick, I'm sanding the edges of the plexiglas now (some are a bit rough), and also thinking about adding more weatherstripping. I'm pretty new to DDR, I have fun but I only get 2-3 foot songs, and a few 4s, so far :-/ I could probably do a little better with more reliable arrows, any thought on whether the extra weatherstripping is a good idea?
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Nephus
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2207. PostPosted: Sat Jul 17, 2004 7:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hmm.. what about using microswitches to mimmick the action of the custom switches? I'm not sure how well they'd hold up to the stress though.
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Nephus
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2208. PostPosted: Sat Jul 17, 2004 7:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hmm.. what about using microswitches to mimmick the action of the custom switches? I'm not sure how well they'd hold up to the stress though.
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tolookah
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2209. PostPosted: Sat Jul 17, 2004 7:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well, microswitches are on/off switches, while the customs are pressure sensitive, they aren't quite the same, i tried soemthing with microswitches, ended up smashing one of them really good.
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71custom
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2210. PostPosted: Sat Jul 17, 2004 7:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey guys, got a quick question about wire size. What size should I use for my ground wires that will connect to the controller ground wires? FYI, i'm using the whole adjustastable screw system, so my ground for each arrow will run around four screws, if that matters. I would think that it would be the same as the cat5 ground size, but what gauge are those little wires? Any help would be awesome, since I'll have the money to finish my pad tomorrow.
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Cheshire Cat
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2211. PostPosted: Sun Jul 18, 2004 8:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used bell wire, which is a bit thicker, but not much. The cat3 I used between the panels is quite thin, and was a bit of a pain to work with w/o breaking leads.
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jbean3535
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2212. PostPosted: Sun Jul 18, 2004 9:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

LordPyrex wrote:
Nephus wrote:
what do the arcade pads use?


Arcade pads use a system that cannot be completely recreated at home. In each arrow you will find 4 pressure connectors.

These are located in the up, down, left. and right sides of the frame. When you step down on the arrow, these are pressed which complete a circuit just like in a homepad creation, however if I'm not mistaken at least 2 of these switches have to make a signal in order to register a step.

The closest that you can come to recreating this would be to wire a connections in a parrallel loop circuit with some form of contacts on each side. Many people use a technique similar to this when they are creating a lighted stage.


Can these be used in the Beat Gear pads?
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LordPyrex
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2213. PostPosted: Sun Jul 18, 2004 7:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jbean3535 wrote:
Can these be used in the Beat Gear pads?


I'm not sure if you would be able to trade out the switches that are already in there for these. They probably work in the same manner though. I guess its just a dimensions issue, wether or not these would acctually fit in the place of the existing spots. Then its just a matter of having to replace the wiring so that the switch can be connected in your pad. If this did work at least it would be a good way to replace the contact system.
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71custom
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2214. PostPosted: Mon Jul 19, 2004 9:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey, I'm having a problem using the arrow graphics that are at the beginning of this thread. I can't copy and paste them, and if I save them, then I can't open them because it says the bitmap is not supported. Any help as soon as possble would be awesome.
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homiedude180
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2215. PostPosted: Mon Jul 19, 2004 7:38 pm    Post subject: im having trouble with my dance pad.... Reply with quote

..Its the wiring. I was using DDrmax to test it out (riptides design) and it wont take doubles
(left+right,up+down, only) why?!!!! E19.gif i wired the arrows and buttons to a pelican chameleon....did i do anything wrong?!!
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Tomo_kun
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2216. PostPosted: Mon Jul 19, 2004 8:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

LordPyrex wrote:
Nephus wrote:
what do the arcade pads use?


Arcade pads use a system that cannot be completely recreated at home. In each arrow you will find 4 pressure connectors.

Ehh, thouse are the Channel Beat ripoffs, the real-deals are $80 from Betson, and they are black. These are murcury switches, as the real ones are metallic dust. You *Could* use the green ones for a metal pad.
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2217. PostPosted: Tue Jul 20, 2004 4:12 am    Post subject: Re: im having trouble with my dance pad.... Reply with quote

homiedude180 wrote:
..Its the wiring. I was using DDrmax to test it out (riptides design) and it wont take doubles
(left+right,up+down, only) why?!!!! E19.gif i wired the arrows and buttons to a pelican chameleon....did i do anything wrong?!!

because all games that use controllers are designed to never need you to press LEFT and RIGHT (or UP and DOWN) at the same time, some USB converters simply dont support the ability to do such buttons combinations.
www.stepmania.com, have a look around, they list the good and bad converters somewhere there.
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LordPyrex
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2218. PostPosted: Tue Jul 20, 2004 9:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

EndOfTomo wrote:
Ehh, thouse are the Channel Beat ripoffs, the real-deals are $80 from Betson, and they are black. These are murcury switches, as the real ones are metallic dust. You *Could* use the green ones for a metal pad.


Channelbeat yes, rip-offs not really. These are acctually the replacements that were originally made for the PIU machines, but with the proper following of diresctions many places have opted to use this as a better priced replacement. Your right about the material though. I was more looking for an image to explain how the pad worked and this was the first that came to mind riiight.gif .
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Tomo_kun
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2219. PostPosted: Tue Jul 20, 2004 9:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

LordPyrex wrote:

Channelbeat yes, rip-offs not really. These are acctually the replacements that were originally made for the PIU machines, but with the proper following of diresctions many places have opted to use this as a better priced replacement. Your right about the material though. I was more looking for an image to explain how the pad worked and this was the first that came to mind riiight.gif .


IIRC, PIU uses a better sensore then the green ones. These are nock-offs because channel beat rarely ever sells anything legitimate. Also, the molexes are different then the arcade pad. It does explain it to people though.


You *Could* use the green sensores for a home made pad, it would just be a freeking expensive pad.
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