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My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)
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enjoi_skating
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Joined: 24 Apr 2004
Location: north eastern Pennsylvania
2080. PostPosted: Tue Jun 29, 2004 8:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

whyrph wrote:
enjoi_skating wrote:
the arrow panels arent supose to bend.they are held up with foam weatherstriping and when you step on the arrow thw weather strip gets squished down to touch the contacts.theres no bending involved.


Hmm. .so maybe my understanding of Riptide's design was wrong. I was under the impression that it goes like this:

top layer of plastic: corners cut out.
buttom layer: corners not cut out. Put below the stanely brackets and above the triangle pieces of wood and then bolted down.
no you cut off the corners on both layers

whyrph wrote:
So ..I was thinking I could just put plywood on top of the foam and below the stanely brackets. I think if I make the foam not very thick (support it with wood) and make it so that the plywood only has to lower, say, half a centimeter (and can't lower much further), it should work pretty well.
you could do that but it would probably look and feel really poopy.plus im not sure if the weather strip would be strong enough to support the wood. also lexan is basicaly the same thing as plexie glass.i got my plexie glass that im using for about 40 bucks.just go to lows and ask for plexie glass they will even cut it for you then all you have to do is cut the corners.
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IIIMUNKIII
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2081. PostPosted: Tue Jun 29, 2004 10:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hey all me and my dad are going to build a pad and were goin to buy the suplies within the next couple of days. I'm gonna use DDR homepads design but i am a little confused about the wiring. Im not going to solder a controller but use a arcade box from red octane. But i have no idea where to put wires and my dads a lil confused also so if anyone could make like a lil diagram in paint laugh.gif or jus explain it very thougherly (i know its spelled wrong riiight.gif ) that would be great. Also if anyne has any tips to avoid problems or better part tips plz post also. Thanx in advance!
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Tyris
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2082. PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2004 12:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

For wiring:
basically the aim is to have 2 wires for each button... one ground, and one (what i call a) 'directional wire'.
Because all the 'ground' wires are going to the same place, you can join them together inside the pad (or inside the controller... but thats a bit harder). The 'directional wires' should connect to each button... so for 'UP', you have one 'directional wire' and the ground wire coming off it. (same for the rest)
then these wires run into your controller (or arcade box).
Inside your controller (or arcade box), you need to find 5 points.
Ground
Up
Down
Left
and Right
All the ground wires (or the one that you've joined together) must be soldered to the ground location. If its not labeled as ground... it could be something else... but basically... it'll be one that connects in some manner to every single 'button' in the box... (because buttons work by connection the groun and the other half to complete a circuit and let the device know what button is pressed).
Once you find ground, you can use trial and error to find the 4 directional connections... note that you'll need to have your system turned on to test this.. but its not really dangerous, however I hear you can fry your controller if you touch stuff yourself (tho the low voltage wont actually hurt you).
So basically you just wire each direction from the ddr pad to the corrosponding direction inside the 'arcade box'.
if you can find me an image if the circuitboard used in an 'arcade box', I can certainly have a try and showing you what u'll need to conect each thing to.

Hope its of -some- help.
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tolookah
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2083. PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2004 3:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

enjoi_skating: lexan and plexiglass are two different things, plexiglass is pretty much a clear plastic, whild lexan is reinforced, i could go more in depth, but it goes into physics and materials. plexiglass (and other acryllics) are pretty weak substances (alot of people can break it if they tried) while lexan (and other polycarbonates) are over 200 times stronger than glass.
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IIIMUNKIII
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2084. PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2004 7:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

this is the best i gfot for a picture hope it helps http://us.st5.yimg.com/store3.yimg.com/I/adux_1797_135949
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whyrph
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2085. PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2004 1:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

enjoi_skating wrote:
whyrph wrote:

Hmm. .so maybe my understanding of Riptide's design was wrong. I was under the impression that it goes like this:

top layer of plastic: corners cut out.
buttom layer: corners not cut out. Put below the stanely brackets and above the triangle pieces of wood and then bolted down.
no you cut off the corners on both layers


So is there anything keeping them in besides weight? If turned the pad upside-down, they'd fall out? Interesting.

But anyways, I think the design is complete on my screw-aesthetics, super-cheap pad. I may keep the buttons in using these.

One for each corner of the buttons. It'll be pretty painful to play without shoes, but I never planned on doing that anyway, so . . .
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enjoi_skating
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2086. PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2004 3:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tolookah wrote:
enjoi_skating: lexan and plexiglass are two different things, plexiglass is pretty much a clear plastic, whild lexan is reinforced, i could go more in depth, but it goes into physics and materials. plexiglass (and other acryllics) are pretty weak substances (alot of people can break it if they tried) while lexan (and other polycarbonates) are over 200 times stronger than glass.
well, i thought they were the same thing.i guess i was wrong ya know ya learn something new everyday.thanks. thumb.gif
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enjoi_skating
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2087. PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2004 3:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

whyrph wrote:
enjoi_skating wrote:
whyrph wrote:

Hmm. .so maybe my understanding of Riptide's design was wrong. I was under the impression that it goes like this:

top layer of plastic: corners cut out.
buttom layer: corners not cut out. Put below the stanely brackets and above the triangle pieces of wood and then bolted down.
no you cut off the corners on both layers


So is there anything keeping them in besides weight? If turned the pad upside-down, they'd fall out? Interesting.


the corner braces hold down the arrow panels.the brace comes off of the little wooden triangle about 1/8th of an inch to hold down the panels
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Tyris
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2088. PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2004 5:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

IIIMUNKIII wrote:
this is the best i gfot for a picture hope it helps http://us.st5.yimg.com/store3.yimg.com/I/adux_1797_135949

uh... am I missing something..?
you kinda will need a circuit board of some kind ... like to actually solder stuff to etc...
is the circuit board just missing from that shot? or does this casing not actually come with one (coz if it doesnt... it isnt gonna be much help unless you have one from a soft pad or something)
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IIIMUNKIII
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2089. PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2004 8:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

oh well i dk lol when it comes to the wiring im totaly lost lol so ya has anyone else used a red octane control box?
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hooded__paladin
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2090. PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2004 8:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Make sure you order this one: http://www.redoctane.com/arcadecasepcb.html
It includes the playstation board and all wires.
Just hook up the 'ground' wire on the board to the ground on your pad, which in turn is connected to one side of each of your arrows. Then, connect the other side of each arrow to its corresponding wire on the board. When you step on an arrow, the sheet metal inside connects the 'ground' to the arrow wire, registering a step.

Also note that I sell soldered playstation boards. It might take a bit longer than Redoctane, because the spare I have right now might not be working right, and because I will be at a camp from Sunday to Saturday, but I could make it cheaper than redoctane's.
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IIIMUNKIII
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2091. PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2004 9:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

with that box can i like cut off the actual box part jus not wires and it'll work fine right E19.gif sry if im coming off like i know nothing i mean the frame and all thats easy to understand to me but i have no idea to anything when it comse to eletrical laugh.gif
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hooded__paladin
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2092. PostPosted: Wed Jun 30, 2004 9:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yep. As long as you don't snip the wires, nothing electrically has changed.
Just think electrically! You can do it! Electricity flows through metal, and if it can get from the ground on the controller to the button wire on a controller, then the button is "pressed."
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IIIMUNKIII
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2093. PostPosted: Thu Jul 01, 2004 9:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

now with this box can i wire my X and O buttons also?
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hooded__paladin
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2094. PostPosted: Thu Jul 01, 2004 12:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Most definitely.
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FoxFireX
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2095. PostPosted: Thu Jul 01, 2004 2:07 pm    Post subject: My home built hybrid DDR pad? Reply with quote

As a bit of background, I started playing in November, and being the kind who likes to build things, it didn't take long for me to embark on building a pair of metal pads, mostly for the fun of it. It's not really like I'm at a level where I require them, as the Ignition soft pads I got have served pretty well. However, one of our initial two Ignition pads started acting up, and the replacement for it seems to be flaky just a month into its lifespan. I've (essentially) completed one of the hard pads, and could finish the other in a couple of weeks if I was so motivated, but honestly, there's one thing I don't really like about them. They're, well, hard. It may just be that I'm too used to the soft pads, but my feet enjoy having a nice, cushioned surface to hit, rather than steel and Lexan. So, on to the point.

I had a thought this afternoon that there's really no reason why one couldn't take the principles used in building a hard pad, and instead build a hybrid soft pad. Obviously things like lighted panels would be right out, but you could create a cushioned top layer over the designs provided in the thread. Then, if there is a problem with the contacts, it's easy enough to fix, and if there's a problem with the padding or cushion, it can be replaced without damaging any circuitry. I'm just wondering whether anyone else has tried a design like this, or if anyone sees any pitfalls that I might need to watch for if I decide to give it a try.
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Oryan
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2096. PostPosted: Fri Jul 02, 2004 8:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Riptides Design Question: I have used Riptides (Old) Design while building my pad. So far so good but i have run into some problems. About the wiring, When it calls for weatcherstripping, it says

Quote:
Next we wire in the switches. Take the lengths of weather stripping that you cut and chop the curved side of them so that you have areas a bit less than a centimeter that there is a hole in the weather stripping. Make these places in the center of the weatherstripping and going towards the edges leaving about an inch or an inch and a half on either side that doesn't have holes. If you make the holes too close to the edges, your switches will be too sensitive.


My weatherstripping is flat not curved... How would i chop the curved sides? And there is no hole in my weather stripping either.

Any Suggestions?
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Daku Wan
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2097. PostPosted: Sat Jul 03, 2004 7:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another question for you all E15.gif

Im going to be building what is in essence a working replica of a DDR stage. So I want to get the thing looking as much like the arcade as possible.

My question is, does anyone know where I can get other graphics associated with the pad? The graphics Im looking for are:

-The warning labels that go between the bars of the Trick Bar
-The back image that says "Stay Cool!" as seen on the 'L' shaped piece attached to the back of some pads
-The DDR logo that goes on the diagonal "notch" in the back of the pads
-The "Dance Dance Revolution" marquee that goes on the left and right sides of the pad
-The yellow and black striped warning stickers that go in the upper left and right hand corners on top of the pad (I noticed that this varies with the pad)

I know its a tall order, but any help is appreciated. E13.gif
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LordPyrex
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2098. PostPosted: Sat Jul 03, 2004 6:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, as far as teh best replica that I know of is just to order the original stickers and such from a parts supplier. Somewhere likeChannelBeat or maybe another supplier. Good Luck E13.gif [/url]
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Oryan
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2099. PostPosted: Sun Jul 04, 2004 4:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey guys im done my pad!!! Im making a video and a will host it soon, the problem is i dont have a host.. Anyone know any websites that lets you upload video? I just want a good website that i can upload videos E1.gif

Another thing, whats the best way to get dirt of my sheet metal? I know how to make the figerprints go away pretty well but not the dirt stuck on? Any ideas?

Danke.

Note: I use Riptides design but i used 1 plexiglass and 1 lesan on top of teh plexi. and i havent gotten the graphics yet.. riiight.gif
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