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hooded__paladin Trick Member
Joined: 10 Nov 2003
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1820. Posted: Wed Apr 14, 2004 9:45 pm Post subject: |
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TiMBuS wrote: | Yes I am aware that the edges are wrapped, but the corners are still pointed (if only a little.) |
File them, and wear shoes. Playing barefoot on a metal pad hurts for reasons OTHER than sharp corners, but sharp corners is a good reason as well. |
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Tenesu Basic Member
Joined: 05 Feb 2004
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1821. Posted: Fri Apr 16, 2004 1:04 pm Post subject: |
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ignore me
Last edited by Tenesu on Fri Apr 16, 2004 1:32 pm, edited 1 time in total |
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Tenesu Basic Member
Joined: 05 Feb 2004
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1822. Posted: Fri Apr 16, 2004 1:31 pm Post subject: Re: Corners |
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TiMBuS wrote: | Hey I'm starting my own pad and I was wondering about the metal squares. The way DDRhomepad describes making the 5 metal squares doesn't sound so great. I mean, the edges will be jagged and ugly where they were 'snipped.'
But it's not like I'm going to fork out $$ for specially made metal sheets so I was just wondering the best way to minimise jagged corner bits for a better looking (and possibly safer) mat.
No I'm not welding anything. Ever. |
Instead of getting thin sheet metal (26 gauge) I went and got 16 (or 14? Cant remember) gauge squares cut to the exact size I needed. I took them home and ground off the edges with a bench grinder leaving smooth edges that aren't sharp. I also rounded the corners slightly just in case. Then I bored the 4 holes in the corners and screwed them to the top of the pad. The benefical things about that way is that it looks pretty nice (in my opinion), won't dent (it's like armor at 16 gauge), and doesn't make sounds (because it doesn't flex).
Of course, it adds an enormous amount of weight to the pad and you have to have additional tools to work it (sandpaper's not going to cut it, need a half decent drill and bits too). I thought it was worth it though. The squares match the brackets almost exactly, they're very tough, and the added weight means that the pad won't shift around at all. They were also very cheap. At $2 a square foot I got 5 squares and a few strips of metal (for the triggers) for only $10. |
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SqFKYo Basic Member
Joined: 04 Jan 2004
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1823. Posted: Sun Apr 18, 2004 6:00 am Post subject: Same old problem, hoping to get some new info... |
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I posted my problem few months ago, but didn't get my problem solved, so I'll repost it with as much information as I can give you.
The mat: Riptide's design with slight modifications (used old design with screws and replaced them with pieces of metal)
The equipment: pc with ems usb2 adapter.
The problem: When you start playing, the mat works, then all of sudden it doesn't register anything for about half a second, then works, then again doesn't register, then works again, etc.
Other info: Mat had been working flawlessly for over three months, and this problem came out of nowhere.
I checked the solders, which look good (all are in place) and also removed static electricity between the plexiglass.
The adapter is also fine, since my Dual Shock 2 and old Playstation controller work fine with it. |
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hooded__paladin Trick Member
Joined: 10 Nov 2003
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1824. Posted: Sun Apr 18, 2004 6:48 am Post subject: |
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what controller did you solder to for your pad? If it isn't an official Sony controller, (the only controllers EMS guarantees will work with the adapter,) it could be needing more electric current that the adapter can supply reliably, meaning it cuts out once in a while. |
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SqFKYo Basic Member
Joined: 04 Jan 2004
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1825. Posted: Sun Apr 18, 2004 7:21 am Post subject: |
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hooded__paladin wrote: | what controller did you solder to for your pad? If it isn't an official Sony controller, (the only controllers EMS guarantees will work with the adapter,) it could be needing more electric current that the adapter can supply reliably, meaning it cuts out once in a while. |
But could it start cutting out just like that after 3+ months? (no, it's not sony) |
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tolookah Trick Member
Joined: 21 Sep 2003 Location: The People's Republic of Wesdives. |
1826. Posted: Sun Apr 18, 2004 7:22 am Post subject: |
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is the controller you soldered still in tact? if it is, does the controller itself have the same problems? (ignoring the pad) if it does, you should look at replacing the controller, because a pad itself wouldn't do that kind of problem on it's own (this is a roundabout way of saying i agree with hooded paladin) _________________
Aim: Tolookah
MSN: Tolookah
XBox: Tolookah
DDRPad Soldering and electrical Help: http://www.tolookah.net/DDR/ As hooded_paladin put it: "Currently, help for Beatpad Pro, official Sony Playstation Controller and ANY controller unless you are extremely stupid or lazy." |
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SqFKYo Basic Member
Joined: 04 Jan 2004
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1827. Posted: Sun Apr 18, 2004 7:24 am Post subject: |
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tolookah wrote: | is the controller you soldered still in tact? if it is, does the controller itself have the same problems? (ignoring the pad) if it does, you should look at replacing the controller, because a pad itself wouldn't do that kind of problem on it's own (this is a roundabout way of saying i agree with hooded paladin) |
How do you check if the controller has problems itself after you solder to it? If I try to replace that controller, are the best choices original ps1 controller and original dual shock 1? |
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hooded__paladin Trick Member
Joined: 10 Nov 2003
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1828. Posted: Sun Apr 18, 2004 10:26 am Post subject: |
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Yep. Anyways, I'm just guessing that somehow electricity, shock, wear and tear or something just made your controller a teensy less reliable than perfect. Wire up an official controller, and make sure you do a neat, secure job of soldering, securing it to a surface to reduce wear + tear, and maybe some sort of anti-static measure, like resistors.
Oh, another idea. Check for small breaks or cracks in your ground wire. A loose ground wire can make the pad shut off intermittently. |
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SqFKYo Basic Member
Joined: 04 Jan 2004
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1829. Posted: Sun Apr 18, 2004 11:01 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for your help, I'm just wondering what do you mean by securing it to the surface. Do you mean I should tape or screw the chip to the pad or what? Also, where do I put the resistors? Between the wire from the pad and the board? |
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Paranoia Survivor Trick Member
Joined: 22 Jan 2004
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1830. Posted: Sat Apr 24, 2004 6:39 am Post subject: |
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I was sitting my pad when I moved my hand over it it and I could feel the static pulling my hair from my arms. There is ALOT of static. How would I remove the static? Thx _________________
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SqFKYo Basic Member
Joined: 04 Jan 2004
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1831. Posted: Sat Apr 24, 2004 1:33 pm Post subject: |
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Paranoia Survivor wrote: | I was sitting my pad when I moved my hand over it it and I could feel the static pulling my hair from my arms. There is ALOT of static. How would I remove the static? Thx |
I used some spray from my dad's workplace. (spray'n'wipe style) |
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brandobond Basic Member
Joined: 24 Apr 2004 Location: Canada |
1832. Posted: Sat Apr 24, 2004 5:19 pm Post subject: Pad arrow graphics |
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I found some really cool arrow pictures for putting under the lucite of my DDR pad at a site http://customddr.com. This site is no longer available. I just wanted to know if anyone knows of another place where I can get cool arrow pictures (different from the original blue and pink ones) or if anyone saved the cool pictures from the customddr site and can give them to me. Thanks. |
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Archonwarp Trick Member
Joined: 05 Jul 2002 Location: Wadsworth, OH |
1833. Posted: Sun Apr 25, 2004 2:47 pm Post subject: |
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Hi all. I was wondering what the current most commonly used arrow contact design is. I just sold my pad to my friend, and I'm helping him fix it up (it was in bad shape as far as arrows go) and we're having a lot of trouble getting the arrows to respond properly whenever the outer corner brackets are in. Any ideas?
BTW: I used DDR Homepad's design. _________________
Dance like it hurts
Love like you need money
Work when people are watching you
--Scott Adams |
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Michael Scofield.Stg Trick Member
Joined: 25 Jan 2004
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1834. Posted: Mon Apr 26, 2004 3:23 am Post subject: |
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Hey, I just finished my pad but it isn't finished. :-\. Doesn't work.
I need some help.
I used homepads design with a ter ter box. The problem isn't the pad because the I used a multimeter to determine if the circuit works. It has to do with the controller PCB. The solders are very clean and don't run into another parts contact. I think it has to do with the cord because it is stripped a little bit. Or the controller. X button works, and the right button keeps pressing. Select and start somethins work. Also down button works but only on menus. Thx. |
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rider_89 Basic Member
Joined: 26 Apr 2004
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1835. Posted: Mon Apr 26, 2004 10:57 am Post subject: |
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Hi,
I am going to be building a mat this weekend, but i have a question. I am wondering if i can replace the 2' by 3' 26 gauge zinc stainless steel that you ask for with tin, like the stuff on ur ducts from the furnace and stuff....
Thanks in advance,
Rider |
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Michael Scofield.Stg Trick Member
Joined: 25 Jan 2004
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1836. Posted: Mon Apr 26, 2004 11:32 am Post subject: |
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Rider-
I used stainless steel for mine. Just go to home depot and pick get it there. Whatever you pick be sure to get something that a solder will stick to. |
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pearlmaster8 Basic Member
Joined: 26 Jul 2002
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1837. Posted: Wed Apr 28, 2004 11:20 am Post subject: which controller |
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when i read the instructions (geocities/ddrhomepad) he said to use a cheap gamestop controller, im reading here and some of you are saying that its way better to use a sony one, but i thought i read before that its very hard to solder to the sony ones or something, can someone clarify which is the best to use? i have an old dual shock 1, and i was going to go out and buy a cheap imitation one, so i just wanna know. |
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hooded__paladin Trick Member
Joined: 10 Nov 2003
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1838. Posted: Wed Apr 28, 2004 1:44 pm Post subject: |
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Cheap controllers tend to not be as resistant to things like static electricity, which builds up a lot when you put paper between plexiglass and dance on it. So, I recommend a Sony digital or Dualshock 1, as they're static-tolerant and they ARE solderable. Most have little copper circles 1/16th of an inch in diameter, which you solder the wires right onto.
If you aren't sure of your soldering ability, there ARE people that can help *cough*. *cough cough*. |
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pearlmaster8 Basic Member
Joined: 26 Jul 2002
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1839. Posted: Thu Apr 29, 2004 6:38 am Post subject: dual shock picture |
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does anyone have a link to a picture of a dual shock 1 that is wired correctly, iv decided to try that out, but im not sure where exactly to solder all the wires. thanks. |
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