My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)

agent1500 · Basic Member Joined: 20 Sep 2003

Hey, just wanted to say thanks for all your help. Just finished up the design for my pad. Your website has been a great help and I owe you a big one.

I haven't gave it the last test but so far it works great. I gave it a run on Lets Groove and it worked really well.

I'll post after the last test.

Tenesu · Basic Member Joined: 05 Feb 2004

CHROMEDOME · Trick Member Joined: 29 Mar 2003 Location: San Ramon, CA

Ok...got a mini problem...I finished my pad and it works for unill I play a song, it will work for the first like 5-10 seconds of the song then die. I can unplug it and plug it back in and it works for another 5 seconds. This same thing happend to my BNS pad...I can play extreme with my regular ps2 controller and it works fine. Any help?
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tolookah · Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2004 5:21 pm Post subject:

Tenesu · Basic Member Joined: 05 Feb 2004

Paranoia Survivor · Trick Member Joined: 22 Jan 2004

Grounding a pad......I still don't understand how to do it? Is there a way to ground your pad into like an outlet?
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agent1500 · Basic Member Joined: 20 Sep 2003

Okay, the pad works.

Unfortunately, its not really sensative yet and I only weight 140. I might have to make some adjustments in the future. But I read his FAQ and it said that after many hours of gameplay the pad will become very sensitive due to the lack of weather stripping.

I've also noticed that it depends on the weight of the person. My friend tried it out on a new song and the pad worked perfectly. In fact, he passed a new song she NEVER passed before with a B...first try. So for right now, I just have to watch where I put my weight.

Oh ya, Double freeze arrows are REALLY hard to do. They work fine but I really have to put my weight into it.

Frozen V (for Extreme) · Trick Member Joined: 27 Mar 2004 Location: STL, Missouri

I havent started building it yet i am going to start tonight but Where can i get the Arrows from and how much will they cost?

Windows · Trick Member Joined: 09 Jan 2004 Location: Ks

hey my buddy and i are building a metal pad for the xbox and ps2, it costs 15.78 for 8 arrows on 11x17 inch paper, normal style because we are putting lights in it, easier to see thru, i don't have the link on this computer, but i can post for you if you don't find one, let me know and it if you don't have it i'll post or pm you the link to em.

Frozen V (for Extreme) · Trick Member Joined: 27 Mar 2004 Location: STL, Missouri

thanks but i can't find it ay i have the link.

SamuraiXDR · Trick Member Joined: 26 Feb 2002 Location: NY

Hey, it's been a longgggg time since I posted [i think it's been a little over a year]. I just wanted to say thanks for ddrhomepad and countless others for inspiring me to embark on a journey of pad building. To all those who are having trouble with their own pads, I've been there before and at times it can be extremely frustrating but be patient and take your time. It's well worth it in the end.

During the Summer of 2003, I completed my 2nd version of DDR pads. The design is sort of based on riptide's design. It makes maintenance a lot easier. Because of this, I was able to experiment with different types of sensor designs [screw contacts, weatherstripping, etc]. But recently, my bro and I developed a sensor that requires no weatherstripping at all and imho it performed the best out of all the ones we tried before. The pad is also designed so lights can be installed in the future. Costs just about $135 for all materials to make the entire thing [2 pads put together].

Pictures of DDR pad v2.0

I've also tried ddrhomepad's design about 2 years ago [cost me about $95]. It was alright for about a year but it was a bit hard to maintain. I also modified my old softpads back then.

Old sk00l pads

I just wanted to my share pad building story with all of you.

My advice is to take as much info as you can from these forums and then design your own. That's basically what I did for my 2nd version. Just keep in mind that each square is 11in x 11in and the soldering points on the controller. The rest should be up to you.

Windows · Trick Member Joined: 09 Jan 2004 Location: Ks

http://mysite.verizon.net/vze2bqg2/

there ya go enjoy

TiMBuS · Basic Member Joined: 09 Apr 2004

Hey I'm starting my own pad and I was wondering about the metal squares. The way DDRhomepad describes making the 5 metal squares doesn't sound so great. I mean, the edges will be jagged and ugly where they were 'snipped.'

But it's not like I'm going to fork out $$ for specially made metal sheets so I was just wondering the best way to minimise jagged corner bits for a better looking (and possibly safer) mat.

No I'm not welding anything. Ever.

-LSE- · Trick Member Joined: 03 Dec 2003 Location: LSD?

I know someone talked about this earlier, but how do you fix the melting acrylic problem when you're cutting it with a jigsaw?

EDIT: Haha well it looks like I was able to find another way around this. Just a while ago I used my circular saw to cut the acrylic. Aside from a few jagged cuts it made on the edge of it, the result was a lot better than with the jigsaw. I think the fault for those jagged cuts were from the saw itself, since I'm guessing it only has 32 teeth. That should be an easy to fix problem since I can get one with more.

If anyone still has a solution for the jigsaw then by all means I'd appreciate the help. Unfortunately for my circular saw there is so much clearance between the guide and the saw that it gets hard for me to cut the corners of the acrylic exactly when I do the actual thing, so I'd prefer to use the jigsaw if I can.

TiMBuS · Basic Member Joined: 09 Apr 2004

Acrylic? What the...

Ahh, you've moved from the metal to the lucite (acrylic) problem.

You could cut it while you wet it, I guess. Its how I drill glass. You could also get it cut by a 'professional.' Go to a industrial place and ask a friendly looking person if they 'could just cut these sheets for you.' Bingo.

I'm a freeloading genius. Not so good at spelling tho.

Alternativley you could cut it slowly, or snap it. Then again, 3 edges of the lucite are hidden from view. Use the pre-cut side (you know, one of the edges that was on it when you bought it) for the side that will be in plain view. This only works if you bought a sheet of lucite with straight edges. But if you bought a sheet of ROUND plexigless, good job, you GODDAMN CRAZY.

Thats enough solutions from me. Try one out.

-LSE- · Trick Member Joined: 03 Dec 2003 Location: LSD?

Yeah I'm trying to make cutting the acrylic with a scoring knife a last resort, as I've built 4 pads before using that method. It's a pain for my back as well as my hands and arms, since I have to score it at least 20 times (If not more) just to keep it straight when I snap it off. I probably might get them to cut the acrylic down to size for me, but alas, I still have to shave the corners off. Keep in mind that these are going to be the octagon-shaped arrow panels from Riptide's (and *gasp* the arcade's) design.

hooded__paladin · Trick Member Joined: 10 Nov 2003

Timbus, ya know, you realize that the edges are snipped with a 1/2"-1" margin on all sides and folded over? You never see the jagged edges once the pad is constructed (except on the sides).

Windows · Trick Member Joined: 09 Jan 2004 Location: Ks

ok here is what i am doing, my friend and i are half way through, i went to a place, any metal/sheet metal shop should work, and have them cut you the sqaures, although i'm finding that you don't need 12" x 12" more like 11 7/8 or even 11.5, but that is just my opinion because you don't need the metal turned over the bottom....but anyway, i had them cut the squares for us, and then had them break it for me, for those of you that don't know what it is, that is a maching that makes a perfect 90 degree angle, it cost me 25 $ for 10 squares, and the metal, which i used steel because it is the cheapest was 50 $, you can do aluminum(spelling?) for about the same to a bit more, and it depends on the shop as to how much they charge per cut if at all and some will break it for you for free. that is what i did for my squares, like i said i am only half way through, i have the frame built and we are putting the brackets on, dang that takes a long time to do, hope that helps

TiMBuS · Basic Member Joined: 09 Apr 2004

Yes I am aware that the edges are wrapped, but the corners are still pointed (if only a little.) Oh well I can deal with it, its just a saftey issue in my book, I've cut my foot on jagged metal before.

Okay, I've read riptides design, and there is little difference between that and the DDRhomepad. I'll probably be making a hybrid between the two. I was just wondering why you need to wedge a graphic between two sheets of plexiglass.. why not just use one sheet, and use some other (cheaper, easier to cut) kind of material for the bottom?

Windows · Trick Member Joined: 09 Jan 2004 Location: Ks

several reasons in my mind, first you don't want to glue or tape the arrow on, could see the glue and tape....well nevermind, second and most important, to make it more sturdy under heavier wieght as well as when you attach the metal to connect to, you don't want to do that to paper, you'll wanna do that to the lucite(what i used), we put a screw and inch apart one for the light next for the arrow etc (nice connection i think...very accurate), all the way around, we used a combo between homepad and...junta, trying to remeber, but that is what we did, we are working on the control box from _ter, doing one for ps2 and one for xbox, we are using a naki ddr soft pad for the controller