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My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)
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dieKatze88
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1680. PostPosted: Thu Mar 04, 2004 5:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I dont know if anybodys mentioned it before (didnt want to read 84 pages), but if you have the 20 bucks extra per a pad, or if you have a bunch of really crappy ones lieing around (like any ddr freak) use the circut board from a madkatz syle pad. since i was going to throw them out after the pads were made, i took them apart, there is a HUGE connector to solder to. like its 1/4th inch by 3/4ths inch. its big. you dont have to be accurate. and theres a ton of space between them.
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tolookah
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1681. PostPosted: Thu Mar 04, 2004 5:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dieKatze88 wrote:
I dont know if anybodys mentioned it before (didnt want to read 84 pages), but if you have the 20 bucks extra per a pad, or if you have a bunch of really crappy ones lieing around (like any ddr freak) use the circut board from a madkatz syle pad. since i was going to throw them out after the pads were made, i took them apart, there is a HUGE connector to solder to. like its 1/4th inch by 3/4ths inch. its big. you dont have to be accurate. and theres a ton of space between them.


/me points to post on previous page, using the madcatz beatpad pro

... hehe (or just click link in my sig)
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stony003
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1682. PostPosted: Thu Mar 04, 2004 8:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm building DDRHomepad's Pad soon. I was wondering if i can make an X button and maybe and O or start button. I'm just thinking about putting on an X button since O isn't commonly used. Start isnt used much either so how would i go about doing so?

Would i just ignore the last Steel on Plywood and make 4 and leave the right side with only one metal support for the X button that would go on the upper right hand side?

Is soldering basically making the wires from the controller longer and connecting it to the Steel sheets?
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hooded__paladin
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1683. PostPosted: Thu Mar 04, 2004 10:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ah, you're talking about making a button in the corner. This is impossible with DDRHomePad's design. What you can do is, say, attach a pushbutton (like, a normal button) to work as that.
OR you can build a riptide-designed pad. Since the non-arrow-panels and the arrow-panels aren't connected to one another, it's simple to build an arrow instead of a button panel.

Building no non-button-panel wouldn't work with DDRHomePad. The corner brackets screw into the non-button-panels in that design, meaning they all have to be there.

Soldering is electrically (and physically) attaching conductors to each other using solder. This means, you solder one end of a wire onto a place on the controller and the other onto a place on your pad, and thus pressing the buttons on your pad will send a signal to the controller. So, yes, it is kind of like that, but that's a bad explanation for it.

Read tolookah's guide on soldering (it's in his profile.) (Read my contribution to the guide, too, and don't you DARE ask to help you find where on the controller to solder.)
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Blue Beefman
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1684. PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2004 10:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

tolookah-

No that wasnt me and Landmark, yes I have been there before, but put up no scores that stayed. That is my friend Beefman, he has long blonde hair their is a difference. But yeah Landmark suxorz for DDR. Their pads are way to slippery.
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ddrtchnobeatz
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1685. PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2004 1:50 pm    Post subject: newb pad builder Reply with quote

ok, im new with the metal pads. i am going to bulid one sooon and i have one question. how does the pad register a step???
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I.F.C
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1686. PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2004 2:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey guys im almost finish with my pad except for one thing, THE LEFT AND RIGHT WORK RANDOMLY and the left doesnt really register as same for the right so its random that they work, If you guys face this problem before help me out plz cuz im following DDR homepads design and did every thing right and for some reason this crap happen and its only the right and left so if you can help thanks guys E2.gif E2.gif
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hooded__paladin
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1687. PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2004 3:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ddrtchnobeatz ( sarc.gif )
a button press is registered on the controller when electricity flows from one contact (side) of the button area (the GROUND) to the other contact (side) (the 'hot' side). This is accomplished with a normal controller by pressing the button down, which presses a piece of electrically conductive material (electricity can flow through it) up against the ground and the hot side, electrically connecting them. To make a DDR pad work, you connect the top piece of metal of an arrow to one of the button contacts of the controller with a wire, and the other piece of metal to the other contact with another wire. When you step on the arrow, the metal pieces touch and electricity flows and the pad registers a step.

IDK85 - it sounds like the left and right arrows both have the problem of being ALMOST connected. Thus, they randomly flicker on and off. Make sure neither of the wires is in contact with the ground wire and that there's enough space between the two pieces of sheet metal.
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DX Manaic
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1688. PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2004 4:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

stony003 wrote:
I'm building DDRHomepad's Pad soon. I was wondering if i can make an X button and maybe and O or start button. I'm just thinking about putting on an X button since O isn't commonly used. Start isnt used much either so how would i go about doing so?

Would i just ignore the last Steel on Plywood and make 4 and leave the right side with only one metal support for the X button that would go on the upper right hand side?

Is soldering basically making the wires from the controller longer and connecting it to the Steel sheets?

Just to let you know, on japanese versions,X is cancel and O is confirm. E15.gif
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dieKatze88
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1689. PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2004 4:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

stony, if you use DDR USA, then you need circle in case you want to play couple/vs/double, otherwize dont loose any sleep over it. if you use Disney mix, you must use X becuse the interface in disney mix uses circle for "go back to the previous menu" so lets consider a quick situation.
I have only the PS1 and stepmania, so i have
DDRUSA, Disney Mix, and Konamix.
I like to play double.
I need X and Circle
My friend has PS2
He has DDR USA, DDR MAX and DDR MAX2. he cant play doubles for food.
He does not play disney mix.
He should use either. but both would be un nessacary.
if your really good with electronics, it would be easy to build a switch into the pad that would switch this button from X to circle, and back again.
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tolookah
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1690. PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2004 4:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

then theres always the option of a terter box (external box with those buttons)... check the first page of the thread
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dieKatze88
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1691. PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2004 4:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yea, ive been looking at that, if you plan to use dedicated buttons in stepmania with the arcade style control box, AND use a solo pad, then your gonna have to remap the Left Right and Confirm buttons on that to something else, like Square, Triangle and Select, because stepmania is evil like that and doesnt let you use Confirm and X or Circle at the same time. gee i wonder why
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CHROMEDOME
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1692. PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2004 9:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I need help with some solder points on my controllers. I picked up a 3rd party PSX controller at funco the other day(not the one on DDRHP's site)Can I solder the wire to the gold part where the buttons should be...Like the offical PSX controller with the black stuff still on. Bascally I need help finding the points to solder to...
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hooded__paladin
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1693. PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2004 10:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you're asking how to find the contacts, see my contribution to tolookah's guide (in his sig). If you're asking whether those gold things are the contact points, YES OF COURSE. Those are even EASIER to solder to (since they don't have that black covering that solder won't stick to)

Really, people, use your knowledge of electrical theory. Or GET some knowledge of electrical theory. That way, we wouldn't have to hold your hand through the whole process.
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Tenesu
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1694. PostPosted: Fri Mar 05, 2004 11:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tolookah wrote:
thanks for information on lights. The pros and cons are useful (i didnt think of some of the cons.) I'm to the point where i can set up just about any of those lighting sets, i have a transformer to step down the AC to 12.6V, and then i convert it to a DC 10-11.5 (it has a ripple) my setup is actually using Opto-Isolators instead of relays (because they are quiet, and never die unless i tell them to) and was planning on using some of my EE magic to make lights work. I figure i can pull about 350mA per light, so i can definitely make the LEDs light, low voltage incandesents would work too, but they are a little big, and i fear i would break 'em. I think im going to do some really odd stuff, take incandecents in the corners (cuz they're cheap, and if i manage to break one it won't matter too much), superbrights for the UDLR, because they work ok, and a CCF in the center, to show off the thing (use it as an On light)


Seems to me like you're going to an awful lot of trouble and expense to alleviate a relatively minor problem. The noise from small relays is fairly low and after being encased in a few inches of wood I doubt you'd be able to hear them over the noise of the game and your jumping around.
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tolookah
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1695. PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2004 5:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tenesu wrote:
Seems to me like you're going to an awful lot of trouble and expense to alleviate a relatively minor problem. The noise from small relays is fairly low and after being encased in a few inches of wood I doubt you'd be able to hear them over the noise of the game and your jumping around.


meh, the big thing to me about the relays is the power consumption, they take about 1/2 watt of power a piece(didnt to the math just now, this is estimate based on a few numbers grabbed from the air), while the opto's take 0.002 Watts of power each. my next step, after making lighting for me, is to make a smaller, battery powered system for the DDR pad (i think i can run it with 2 AA's or less) that totally isolates the pad from the system, keeps the player safe, and makes no electrical noise. (i'm not one to run any high amperage through the pad, anywhere near the person, without lights, the highest amperage is 0.000166 Amps (166uA)
I guess the engineer in me is just making things difficult, to make the most efficient setup i can, make it as small as possible, and protect anything it plugs into. (the electonics, minus the transformer, is 2x3 inches on its own board.

ok, enough with the report. actually, not done. the part about it all encased in wood is off, my pad has a height of less than an inch and a half, it's a metal frame, the next one i do (again, just to improve upon myself) is going to be mostly plastics, to attempt to aleviate actual noise. When electronics are functional and to my specs, i will be making helpful guides n stuff for those who wanna do the same.

ok, now im done writing a report... (honest)
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dieKatze88
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1696. PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2004 6:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

heh. the enginner in you is cool.
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I.F.C
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1697. PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2004 8:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hooded__paladin wrote:
IDK85 - it sounds like the left and right arrows both have the problem of being ALMOST connected. Thus, they randomly flicker on and off. Make sure neither of the wires is in contact with the ground wire and that there's enough space between the two pieces of sheet metal.



Hey thks man i see if thats the problem
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game3eak
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1698. PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2004 10:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alight i preatty much finished my pad but the solder wont stick to the controller? E19.gif i tried useing a cheap 5.99 one from EB games and i thought that was the problem so i bought a madkatz paddle from Walmart. The solder wont stick to either of the ones i bought?

EDIT: The soldering gun we have is reeeally old it still melts the solder but it takes a while.. ? could it be it's not hot enough?
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XtremeDDRPlayer
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1699. PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2004 8:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Last person that posted: Getting the solder to stick with an old iron might be pretty difficult. However, if it's melting it, it should be able to hold the wires. Practice on something else for awhile and then try again. If you don't have any luck, get someone with more experience to help you.

---

Anyways, I didn't want to wade through 85 pages, but, if anybody needs any help with a pad, you can IM me at kds200613. I can help you. I built one a little over a year ago.

What I really came here for is to see if anybody would be willing to buy my pad. I'm not really wanting to sell it, but I never have time to use it anymore and I just found out that my DDRMAX cd doesn't work! I really don't want to sell it, but it's just sitting around doing nothing. I remember back when I was making mine, people were offering big bucks for home made pads because they didn't think they could build them themselves. If I put my pad on ebay, how much would it bring? Has anyone done this? My pad works perfectly. I can get an A on MAX300 Heavy. I've got at least an A on every song on DDRMAX on every difficulty, so it's a very good pad.

About how much would it bring? Thanks. And remember, if you need help building one of these things, just IM me.
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