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game3eak
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Joined: 17 Feb 2004
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1660.  Posted: Sat Feb 28, 2004 6:27 pm Post subject: |
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Ok could someone show me a diagram/ pic/ give me any information as to where the solder points are on an Xbox controler?
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Battle.Net- God_of_ddr \or/ ddr_legend |
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Hottie4Life
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Joined: 27 Feb 2004
Location: WA |
| 1661. Posted: Sat Feb 28, 2004 10:50 pm Post subject: Help Please |
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| Um...Ive heard a lot about how soldering is soo hard and stuff and im deciding that im gonna make one so i was wondering if anyone can please help me and give me some good directions on how to do it cuz i have read some of the stuff on here and it was all confusing. And i ws also wonder i have the visual for the regualr playstation controller is it any different then the ps2 contorller becuase tat is wat i well be using...thanks for you help please email me |
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Michael Scofield.Stg
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Joined: 25 Jan 2004
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| 1662. Posted: Sun Feb 29, 2004 7:28 am Post subject: |
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| Hotte4Life wrote: | | Um...Ive heard a lot about how soldering is soo hard and stuff and im deciding that im gonna make one so i was wondering if anyone can please help me and give me some good directions on how to do it cuz i have read some of the stuff on here and it was all confusing. And i ws also wonder i have the visual for the regualr playstation controller is it any different then the ps2 contorller becuase tat is wat i well be using...thanks for you help please email me |
Well the PS2 controller is touch sensative so it works differently, the harder you press the button the more it responds. If I were you I would just go to EB game or gamestop and get a 5 dollar used official PS controller (without analog-that will save you some money) and official is always better. :-p
Im just getting to the wireing on mine I started yesterday and have all of it finished except for the wireing and control box. It should be done by end of next weekend. Gonna be sweet.
Just one note... Im using myhomepads design it says phone wire what type should I use to solder to the peices of metal? does it really matter? |
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game3eak
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Joined: 17 Feb 2004
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hooded__paladin
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Joined: 10 Nov 2003
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| 1664. Posted: Sun Feb 29, 2004 11:23 am Post subject: |
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Um, "Hottie4Life"...
The links at the DDRHomePad site have some pages on soldering. Good luck. It won't be easy if you have no experience working with electronics before (ditto on the rest of the pad construction)
game3eak, I'm quite sure those are NOT. Wiring plugs (my skillfully untechnical term) like that wouldn't be carrying simple button signals, but probably digital signals for the ENTIRE controller, or maybe analog signals from joysticks or something.
Note to ANYONE and EVERYONE that wants to solder to whatever controller they want:
| hooded__paladin wrote: | okay, here is your guide to finding the contacts.
See the two prong-shaped things on either side of each button area? One of those is the ground, and one of those is the 'hot' side of each button.
The grounds are all connected together. Find one contact of each button area that is connected to another contact of another button by a line. Those are the grounds.
SO, you solder the ground wire coming from your pad to one of the ground contacts (it doesn't matter which, because they're all connected together). Then you solder the other wires coming from your DDR pad to the corresponding 'hot' contact of each arrow. |
here is my appendix to the guide:
Appendix 1: It's not always really that simple.
For controllers that have analog buttons, the touch-sensitive material that is on the button contacts makes it impossible to solder to the contact area (not that you couldn't get it to stick, but that it wouldn't electrically work.) In this case, such as using Dualshock 2 (PS2) or Xbox controllers, you'd have to follow the lines on the circuit board until you found a point to solder onto. It's likely that the available point would be TINY to solder to (like, one pin of a chip) so it could be difficult or impossible. Good luck.
Thus making the entire guide read as follows:
| hooded__paladin wrote: | okay, here is your guide to finding the contacts.
See the two prong-shaped things on either side of each button area? One of those is the ground, and one of those is the 'hot' side of each button.
The grounds are all connected together. Find one contact of each button area that is connected to another contact of another button by a line. Those are the grounds.
SO, you solder the ground wire coming from your pad to one of the ground contacts (it doesn't matter which, because they're all connected together). Then you solder the other wires coming from your DDR pad to the corresponding 'hot' contact of each arrow.
Appendix 1: It's not always really that simple.
For controllers that have analog buttons, the touch-sensitive material that is on the button contacts makes it impossible to solder to the contact area (not that you couldn't get it to stick, but that it wouldn't electrically work.) In this case, such as using Dualshock 2 (PS2) or Xbox controllers, you'd have to follow the lines on the circuit board until you found a point to solder onto. It's likely that the available point would be TINY to solder to (like, one pin of a chip) so it could be difficult or impossible. Good luck. |
from now on, for pete's sake (and mine, too), no more questions of "where do I solder" and "can you edit this photo to show me where to solder"[/url] |
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tolookah
Trick Member
Joined: 21 Sep 2003
Location: The People's Republic of Wesdives. |
| 1665. Posted: Sun Feb 29, 2004 12:45 pm Post subject: |
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OK, for those waiting on me putting up some sort of guide for the beatpad pro, sorry, but my desktop brokedown, and that pissed me off, so a week later, i post it, and add the link to my profile, and when my computer actually works again, I'll update it with other controllers.
http://www.tolookah.net/DDR/ <-- Soldering Guide, with instructions for Beatpad Pro.
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Aim: Tolookah
MSN: Tolookah
XBox: Tolookah
DDRPad Soldering and electrical Help: http://www.tolookah.net/DDR/ As hooded_paladin put it: "Currently, help for Beatpad Pro, official Sony Playstation Controller and ANY controller unless you are extremely stupid or lazy." |
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do_da_cha_cha
Trick Member
Joined: 06 Oct 2003
Location: NWI |
| 1666. Posted: Sun Feb 29, 2004 1:42 pm Post subject: |
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I need some help on choosing between building a riptide-style pad or a patster one........which makes less noise when you step on an arrow....and which one is more light-adding-friendly? Also......is there any price difference between the 2? 
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CeLLuLoiD
Basic Member
Joined: 03 Dec 2003
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| 1667. Posted: Mon Mar 01, 2004 9:44 am Post subject: |
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| I finally finished my ddrhomepad pad!!!! Yeah! It was not as sensitive as I wanted it at first so I had to take out all of the weatherstripping. ALAS! It works so good it feels like the arcade 100%. Happy hands! |
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Shadow_Dragonz
Trick Member
Joined: 16 Mar 2003
Location: California |
| 1668. Posted: Mon Mar 01, 2004 10:59 am Post subject: |
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| SoccerEBA3 wrote: | | I need some help on choosing between building a riptide-style pad or a patster one........which makes less noise when you step on an arrow....and which one is more light-adding-friendly? Also......is there any price difference between the 2? |
1) Which one makes less noise?
I really do not know. Some have said that riptide's can make a lot of noise.
2) Which dance pad is light, or more light, friendly?
I think that Patster's is more light friendly, and for that he has a guide to adding lights to his design.
3) Is there a price difference between the two types?
I believe Patster's would cost more due to relays, transistors, switches, and lights. There are more parts that you have to purchase for that design.
Hope that helps 
Shadow_Dragonz
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Blue Beefman
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Joined: 31 Oct 2002
Location: WI |
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I.F.C
Trick Member
Joined: 04 Nov 2003
Location: TX |
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hooded__paladin
Trick Member
Joined: 10 Nov 2003
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| 1671. Posted: Tue Mar 02, 2004 6:20 am Post subject: |
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| try HOME DEPOT, or lowes, or whatever hardware store you have! |
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I.F.C
Trick Member
Joined: 04 Nov 2003
Location: TX |
| 1672. Posted: Tue Mar 02, 2004 6:29 am Post subject: |
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Ok thanks for replying
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Shadow_Dragonz
Trick Member
Joined: 16 Mar 2003
Location: California |
| 1673. Posted: Wed Mar 03, 2004 10:26 am Post subject: |
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| Blue Beefman wrote: | well...I havent posted HERE in a while, my job got really busy and stuff, but I quit there recently
and Now that I have no job and no money for anything I was thinking about selling pads again, that is if people are still interested
so yeah I wonder if theres anybody here who remembers me... |
Hey Blue Beefman,
Yeah, I remember you  . I just recently finished building my dance pad, which I got some of the ideas from you  . Now that I think of it, it would've been easier to just buy one from you but I kind of spent about $300 on mine  . Anyway it is a senior project, and to add I have to talk about it and present it to a board committee. Also, I've been asked to preform the game in front of them  . Well, I'm sorry to hear about the loss of job and no money.
I'd probably post in the market place if you haven't already too
Shadow_Dragonz
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Blue Beefman
Trick Member
Joined: 31 Oct 2002
Location: WI |
| 1674. Posted: Wed Mar 03, 2004 10:58 am Post subject: |
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| Shadow_Dragonz wrote: |
Hey Blue Beefman,
Yeah, I remember you . I just recently finished building my dance pad, which I got some of the ideas from you . Now that I think of it, it would've been easier to just buy one from you but I kind of spent about $300 on mine . Anyway it is a senior project, and to add I have to talk about it and present it to a board committee. Also, I've been asked to preform the game in front of them . Well, I'm sorry to hear about the loss of job and no money.
I'd probably post in the market place if you haven't already too
Shadow_Dragonz |
lol well im glad someone does, I see lot sof people here I dont know
lol good luck on the project, I could have never done that at my school...they thought dancing was evil... 
lol
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Shadow_Dragonz
Trick Member
Joined: 16 Mar 2003
Location: California |
| 1675. Posted: Wed Mar 03, 2004 11:25 am Post subject: |
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| Blue Beefman wrote: | | Shadow_Dragonz wrote: |
Hey Blue Beefman,
Yeah, I remember you . I just recently finished building my dance pad, which I got some of the ideas from you . Now that I think of it, it would've been easier to just buy one from you but I kind of spent about $300 on mine . Anyway it is a senior project, and to add I have to talk about it and present it to a board committee. Also, I've been asked to preform the game in front of them . Well, I'm sorry to hear about the loss of job and no money.
I'd probably post in the market place if you haven't already too
Shadow_Dragonz |
lol well im glad someone does, I see lot sof people here I dont know
lol good luck on the project, I could have never done that at my school...they thought dancing was evil...
lol |
Yes, there are a lot of new people. Hooded__Paladin is a regular though . Riptide hasn't posted in quite a while. He's kind of vanished, and I don't think that he ever updated his web site to include his new contact design (inspired by you ).
I have already finished building my dance pad. I just need to get some wood to put around it for some supports. The 2x4 in the back arrow wasn't strong enough, so if I played a song like MAX 300 or MAXX Unlimited, I'd jump back and rip that 2x4 off, along with my contacts  . And the lights do work in it . My PS2 hasn't fried yet, so I believe it works good  . Thanks
Dancing evil, lol  .
*******
To add to Hooded__Paladin, you can check out my FAQ. The link is below my banner. It has all the (or more) links to the web pages for soldering tips, how to solder to a Sony Playstation Controller, and other useful information. Just let me know if there are any additions that I need to make or any mistakes that I made in it. Thanks.
Shadow_Dragonz
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bb
Trick Member
Joined: 27 Jul 2003
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| 1676. Posted: Wed Mar 03, 2004 12:56 pm Post subject: |
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yo Blue beefman i remember you
anyways i'm thinking about buying a pad from you
so can you give the pricing and a picture of the pad would be nice =)
and give me details of the pad too.please
thanx |
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tolookah
Trick Member
Joined: 21 Sep 2003
Location: The People's Republic of Wesdives. |
| 1677. Posted: Wed Mar 03, 2004 11:01 pm Post subject: |
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alright, im getting down to the nitty gritty details of setting up lighting for my pad (well, its not a pad right now, its a circuit board, a transformer, some wires and a playstation controller...) and im trying to find a decent lighting supply. i want to have at least 4 lights be able to be lit at once, but currently, i can set it up for all 9, with the center a constant on while the thing is on. Going from that, i have about 3 watts per light set to work with. im at about 10-11.5 Volts, and im just wondering what all has been used, i know cold cathodes will work, but they are pricey, and im considering using superbrights, but im worried about them showing up point sources. if i do go a cheaper route, i will end up buying at least one Cold cathode for the center square, because that will be my powered up light. I'm much less wondering about designs than options, if im given a light thats ~3W, and not huge, i can make it work...
any suggestions?
btw, bluebeefman, yes i remember you, you've been to landmark before, and have highscores there... never met you, but you're somewhere near me from what i hear.
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Aim: Tolookah
MSN: Tolookah
XBox: Tolookah
DDRPad Soldering and electrical Help: http://www.tolookah.net/DDR/ As hooded_paladin put it: "Currently, help for Beatpad Pro, official Sony Playstation Controller and ANY controller unless you are extremely stupid or lazy." |
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Tenesu
Basic Member
Joined: 05 Feb 2004
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| 1678. Posted: Thu Mar 04, 2004 2:59 pm Post subject: |
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| tolookah wrote: | alright, im getting down to the nitty gritty details of setting up lighting for my pad (well, its not a pad right now, its a circuit board, a transformer, some wires and a playstation controller...) and im trying to find a decent lighting supply. i want to have at least 4 lights be able to be lit at once, but currently, i can set it up for all 9, with the center a constant on while the thing is on. Going from that, i have about 3 watts per light set to work with. im at about 10-11.5 Volts, and im just wondering what all has been used, i know cold cathodes will work, but they are pricey, and im considering using superbrights, but im worried about them showing up point sources. if i do go a cheaper route, i will end up buying at least one Cold cathode for the center square, because that will be my powered up light. I'm much less wondering about designs than options, if im given a light thats ~3W, and not huge, i can make it work...
any suggestions?
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I'm confused. Where is your 10-11.5 volt source coming from? An AC/DC converter? Are you building a pad with 8 arrows and one clear center panel? If not, why do you need the corner and center panels lit? Where did you get your wattage per light spec from? If low power and size is the primary concern I'd use CCFL's but they're expensive. If size isn't a big issue i'd use incandescents. They may be big but they do the job much more efficiently then any other solution (brightness and even illumination to cost). The wiring with 120v isnt much of an issue either so long as you're careful.
In general with lights---------------------
I'd pick what kind of lights you want first and then build the system around your choice. Different types of light sources will require different current, voltage, and triggering mechanisms. Here's a list of light sources I know of with benefits and drawbacks. Im sure Ive missed some points so feel free to correct me. All prices, voltages, and currents are averages for components Ive come across.
If youre going for cost savings Id go with incandescents. If brightness is your goal Id go with CCFLs. And if simplicity is your goal Id go with LEDs.
In all cases, make sure that the amount of power (in watts usually) that all your components are using is less then the maximum power rating listed on your power supply. If you draw too much power you have the risk of overheating, fires and tripping the circuit breaker. In all likelihood you probably dont need to be concerned about that but its always better to be safe.
LED's--------------------
(Light Emitting Diode)
Drawbacks:
Somewhat to very expensive depending on color and brightness desired. White superbright LED's are some of the most expensive LED's available and retail for around $4 per led. Blue's are also fairly expensive and are about $2.5 per led. Red's, yellow's and green's are the cheapest and can be found for prices under a dollar.
LED's don't provide a large lit area. They typically light in a cone with anywhere from 15 to 90 degrees. Brightness drops off considerably as you increase the viewing angle. This requires you to use multiple LED's to get even illumination of an arrow thereby increasing cost.
When/if a led burns out they can be a hassle to change unless you socket the led. Socketing increases cost however. However, in reality, most led's have a long life and you'll probably wind up dumping the pad by they burn out. I'm not sure if the constant on/off behavior will shorten their life however. Led's also tend to lose brightness near the end of their life.
They require a AC to DC converter. A 120v AC to 9v DC will work fine.
Resistors will be required to provide the appropriate current to the led. Not using resistors will provide much too much current and fry the led. You need one resistor for each LED unless they are wired in series.
Benefits:
Easy to wire. Most LED's only need to run off a few volts and draw ~20 mA of current. They also run much cooler then incandescent. They don't require the use of relays due to their low voltages. They dont have a need for 120v supplies and the transformer can be contained outside the pad and plugged into it to reduce weight and complexity.
CCFL's-------------
(Cold Cathode Fluorescent Lamp)
Drawbacks: Cost. CCFL's are not cheap. Looking around I've found most lamps to be $10+ per lamp. You're looking at ~$100 for 9 lamps after shipping before buying an inverter for them.
They're also a pain to wire unless you buy an existing kit. They require an inverter which takes a low DC voltage and ramps it up to hundreds or thousands of volts depending on the length of the tube.
CCFL's are also incredibly fragile in my experience. I'd be wary of putting them in something that's expected to be lifted, dropped, kicked, and bounced around. If you do, be sure to properly secure them against shock and vibrations.
Benefits:
They provide a nice, even, very bright white light. However, depending on the depth of the pad you may want more then one to provide even illumination as a shallow pad will result in having a bright line down the arrow. Since they project light in a 360 degree field I'd put some foil or a mirror or some other reflective surface below the light to provide more even illumination. You could also buy them in square or circle shapes.
They also run cooler then incandescent lights. They use less power (~5mA's) and last an awfully long time.
If you're filthy rich, ( ) comfortable working with high voltages and can secure them against shock I'd recommend these. They offer superior efficiency, heat generation, size, and light distribution at the cost of price to just about any other light source around.
Incandescents----
(Your average run of the mill light bulb)
Drawbacks: Quite a few. They take a lot of power, have crappy efficiency, and generate a lot of heat. If you use them you need to have relays to trigger them along with a DC power supply to turn the relays on and off. You also need a 120v AC power supply going into the pad which will need to be properly handled (a minimum of bare wire).
The problem with heat won't manifest itself unless the arrow remains lit for an extended amount of time. You can also minimize the problem if you use low wattage bulbs (<20 watts) and cut ventilation holes/slots in the side of the arrow.
They also are huge compared to a CCFL or LED. If you're going for the thinnest pad possible then these lights aren't for you.
Need an AC to DC converter just like LEDs. Its used to power the relays however, not the light sources.
Benefits: Cost. These lights are cheap and they're easy to change if they're broken or burnt out. Sockets to screw them into cost about a buck and the wire needed for 120v is only $15 more or so.
They generate a good amount of light. A low wattage (20 watts) bulb will probably work fine depending on how thick your arrow graphic is. Like CCFL's they radiate light in a 360 degree pattern so I'd put something reflective on the bottom of the pad to help with even illumination.
Wiring is fairly simple. You have two loops going through the relay. One ~9v DC loop to turn the relay on and off and one 120v AC loop to power the lights. I highly recommend a fuse inline with the 120v supply so if a short occurs you lessen the risk to other components. |
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tolookah
Trick Member
Joined: 21 Sep 2003
Location: The People's Republic of Wesdives. |
| 1679. Posted: Thu Mar 04, 2004 3:46 pm Post subject: |
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thanks for information on lights. The pros and cons are useful (i didnt think of some of the cons.) I'm to the point where i can set up just about any of those lighting sets, i have a transformer to step down the AC to 12.6V, and then i convert it to a DC 10-11.5 (it has a ripple) my setup is actually using Opto-Isolators instead of relays (because they are quiet, and never die unless i tell them to) and was planning on using some of my EE magic to make lights work. I figure i can pull about 350mA per light, so i can definitely make the LEDs light, low voltage incandesents would work too, but they are a little big, and i fear i would break 'em. I think im going to do some really odd stuff, take incandecents in the corners (cuz they're cheap, and if i manage to break one it won't matter too much), superbrights for the UDLR, because they work ok, and a CCF in the center, to show off the thing (use it as an On light)
When im done with this pad electronics, i plan on posting the results, because each button can be with or without light, without affecting the operation. final cost with lights in that setup is about $30... we'll see how it looks.
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Aim: Tolookah
MSN: Tolookah
XBox: Tolookah
DDRPad Soldering and electrical Help: http://www.tolookah.net/DDR/ As hooded_paladin put it: "Currently, help for Beatpad Pro, official Sony Playstation Controller and ANY controller unless you are extremely stupid or lazy." |
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